I migliori abbinamenti
Transcript
I migliori abbinamenti
L’angolo dei vini / The wine corner 39 di Luigino Bruni Sommelier professionista e docente Istituto Istruzione Superiore (IIS) "Panzini" di Senigallia 18 ,PLJOLRULDEELQDPHQWL 7KHSHUIHFWSDLULQJV 3HU FLz FKH ULJXDUGD OD SDWDWD QHJOL DEELQDPHQWL FLERYLQR SHUSULPDFRVDGREELDPRFRQVLGHUDUHFKHOHSUHSDUD]LRQLFUH DWHGDJOLFKHIGLWXWWRLOPRQGRFRQTXHVWRSURGRWWRVRQRWDQ WLVVLPH H GLYHUVLVVLPH RJQXQD GHOOH TXDOL TXLQGL SXz DGGL ULWWXUD IDUH ´VWRULD D Vpµ FLz GLIIHUHQ]LD OD SDWDWD GD SURGRW WLFRPHDGHVHPSLRLOSRPRGRURO DEELQDPHQWRFRQLOTXDOHq PDJJLRUPHQWHFRQGL]LRQDWRGDOOHFDUDWWHULVWLFKHRUJDQROHWWLFKH GHOO LQJUHGLHQWH3HUO·DEELQDPHQWRqSDUWLFRODUPHQWHLPSRUWDQ WHTXLQGLFRQRVFHUHLOPRGRLQFXLODSDWDWDYLHQHFXFLQDWDHVH qGLDFFRPSDJQDPHQWRDFDUQLSHVFLRLQYHFHVHUYLWDVHPSOL FHPHQWH´GDVRODµ,PPDJLQLDPRGLDVVDSRUDUHOH´SDWDWHEUX VFKHµ FLRq FRWWH VRWWR OD FHQHUH FRQ OD SURSULD EXFFLD TXHO OHFKHQHL3DHVLDQJORVDVVRQLFKLDPDQR-DFNHWSRWDWRHVHSRL FRQGLWHFRQROLRHVDOHQRQSRVVLDPRFKHDFFRPSDJQDUOHFRQ XQ2OWUHSzEUXWXQPHWRGR0DUWLQRWWLGL9HUGLFFKLRXQ%UXW 5RVqGL&RVWDULSDRSSXUHLO)UDQFLDFRUWD5RVqGL0RQWHGHOPD 8QDGHOOHSUHSDUD]LRQLSLGLIIXVHQHOPRQGRqVLFXUDPHQWHOD ]XSSDGLSDWDWHXQDYDULDQWHGHOODTXDOHqODFUHPD FKH SUHQGH LO QRPH GDO VXR LGHDWRUH 3DUPHQWLHU VL WUDWWD GL SLDWWL FKH HVDOWDQR OD ORUR WHQGHQ]D GROFH OD GLVFUHWD DURPDWLFLWj H VXFFXOHQ]D H FKH ULFKLHGR QR YLQL ELDQFKL VLFXUDPHQWH JLRYDQL IUHVFKL GL DFL GLWj QRQ WURSSR PRUELGL H QRQ PROWR VWUXWWXUD WL FRPH OD 1RVLROD GHO 7UHQWLQR LO %LDQFKHOOR GHO 0HWDXURLO0XOOHU7KXUJDX,*76LFLOLDRLO0XOOHU 7KXUJDX 3DODL GL 3RMHU H 6DQGUL /D SUHSDUD]LR QHSLFRQRVFLXWDqSHUzODSDWDWDIULWWDFKHFRQ ODVXHFDUDWWHULVWLFKHGLWHQGHQ]DGROFHGLVFUH WD VXFFXOHQ]D H GHOLFDWD XQWXRVLWj H VDSLGLWj ULFKLHGHXQYLQRVHFFRPDJDULFRQOHEROOLFLQH H FRPXQTXH DEEDVWDQ]D PRUELGR OHJJHUPHQ WHFDOGRGLDOFROFRQSURIXPLGHOLFDWLFRPHXQ 3URVHFFRGL9DOGREELDGHQH6XSHULRUH%UXW6DQ %ROGRGL0DUVXUHWRLO3URVHFFRGL9DOGREELDGHQH 6XSHULRUHGL&DUWL]]HGL'H)DYHUL8QDOWURSLDW WRVWUDRUGLQDULRqLOVRXIIOqGLSDWDWHLQFXLOD SHUVLVWHQ]DDURPDWLFDHODWHQGHQ]DGROFHVRQR GHFLVDPHQWH SL LPSRUWDQWL FKH LQ DOWUL SLDW WL DYHQGR DQFKH XQD OHJJHUD VDSLGLWj H VXFFX OHQ]DULFKLHGHXQYLQROHJJHURGLDOFROPROWRIUHVFRGLDFLGLWj SLXWWRVWRPRUELGRHPDJDULOHJJHUPHQWHWDQQLFRFRPHXQ$OWR $GLJH3LQRW1HUR5RVqGL)UDQ]+DDVXQ5RVDWRGHO*DUGDR LO)UDQFLDFRUWD%UXW5RVqGL8EHUWL/DSDWDWDqDQFKHO·LQJUH GLHQWHSULQFLSDOHFRQFXLVLSUHSDUDQRJOLJQRFFKLOHFXLVDOVH IDQQRVEL]]DUULUHJOLFKHISHUVRQDOPHQWHDGRURJOLJQRFFKLDO JRUJRQ]RODFKHVRQRFDUDWWHUL]]DWLGDXQDLPSRUWDQWHWHQGHQ]D GROFHEXRQDDURPDWLFLWjHVXFFXOHQ]DSUHGLOLJRQRYLQLELDQFKL GLEXRQDVWUXWWXUDIUHVFKLGLDFLGLWjFRQXQERXTXHWGDLSUR IXPLHYROXWLHSLXWWRVWRPRUELGRFRPHLO9HUGLFFKLRGHL&DVWHOOL GL-HVLFODVVLFRVXSHULRUH´9LJQDGHOOH2FKHµGHOOD)DWWRULD6DQ /RUHQ]R/HSDWDWHVLDFFRVWDQRVSHVVRDQFKHDSHVFLFURVWD FHLELYDOYH/HSUHSDUD]LRQLSLFRQRVFLXWHVRQRLQLQVDODWDGL PDUHFRQOHFR]]HLOEUDQ]LQRDOFDUWRFFLRLOVDOPRQHLOSROSR , YLQL FKH OH DFFRPSDJQHUDQQR LQ TXHVWH VLWXD]LRQL VDUDQ QRVHPSUHSLXWWRVWRGHOLFDWLFRPHO·(WQDELDQFRLO)DOHULRGHL FROOL$VFRODQLLO9HUPHQWLQR7RVFDQRRLO9HUPHQWLQRGL*DOOXUD :KHQFRQVLGHULQJSDLULQJVEHWZHHQZLQHDQGSRWDWREDVHGGLVKHV WKHÀUVWWKLQJRQHVKRXOGUHDOLVHLVWKDWWKHUHDUHVRPDQ\GLIIHUHQW UHFLSHVFUHDWHGZLWKWKHSRWDWRE\FKHIVDURXQGWKHZRUOGWKDWHDFK GLVK KDV D XQLTXH VWRU\ RI LWV RZQ WR WHOO 7KLV LV ZKDW VHWV WKH SRWDWRDSDUWIURPRWKHUSURGXFWVVXFKDVWKHWRPDWRIRUH[DPSOH ZKHUHSDLULQJVDUHPRUHQRWDEO\LQÁXHQFHGE\WKHFKDUDFWHULVWLFV RI WKH LQJUHGLHQW LWVHOI :KHQ GHÀQLQJ D SDLULQJ LW LV SDUWLFXODUO\ LPSRUWDQW WR NQRZ KRZ WKH SRWDWR LV FRRNHG DQG ZKHWKHU LW LV DFFRPSDQLHGE\PHDWRUÀVKRULILWLVVLPSO\VHUYHGDORQH-XVW WKLQNRIDGHOLFLRXVDVKEDNHGMDFNHWSRWDWRVHDVRQHGVLPSO\ZLWK RLODQGVDOWWKHSHUIHFWDFFRPSDQLPHQWLQWKLVFDVHKDVWREHDQ 2OWUHSz%UXWD0HWRGR0DUWLQRWWL9HUGLFFKLRD&RVWDULSD%UXW5RVp RUD0RQWHGHOPD)UDQFLDFRUWD5RVp2QHRIWKHZRUOG·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² SHUKDSVHYHQVSDUNOLQJ²ZLWKD UHDVRQDEOHVPRRWKQHVVDVOLJKW DOFRKROLFZDUPWKDQGDGHOLFDWH ERXTXHW VXFK DV D 3URVHFFR GL 9DOGREELDGHQH 6XSHULRUH %UXW 6DQ %ROGR E\ 0DUVXUHW RU D 3URVHFFR GL 9DOGREELDGHQH 6XSHULRUH GL &DUWL]]H E\ 'H )DYHUL $QRWKHU H[WUDRUGLQDU\ FUHDWLRQLVWKHSRWDWRVRXIÁpLQ ZKLFKWKHSHUVLVWHQWDURPDDQG VZHHWQHVV DUH GHFLGHGO\ PRUH DFFHQWXDWHG WKDQ LQ RWKHU GLVKHV :LWKLWVVXEWOHVDSLGLW\DQGVXFFXOHQFHWKLVGLVKVKRXOGEHSDLUHG ZLWKDOLJKWO\DOFRKROLFZLQHZLWKDYHU\IUHVKO\DFLGLFFRPSRQHQWD QRWDEOHVPRRWKQHVVDQGSHUKDSVDVOLJKWWDQQLFHOHPHQWVXFKDV DQ$OWR$GLJH3LQRW1HUR5RVpE\)UDQ]+DDVD5RVDWRGHO*DUGD RUD)UDQFLDFRUWD%UXW5RVpE\8EHUWL7KHSRWDWRLVDOVRWKHFKLHI LQJUHGLHQWLQJQRFFKLZKLFKPD\EHVHUYHGZLWKDQ\VDXFHDFKHI·V LPDJLQDWLRQFDQFRQMXUHXS0\SHUVRQDOIDYRXULWHLVJQRFFKLZLWK JRUJRQ]ROD ZKLFK KDV D VXEVWDQWLDO VZHHWQHVV DQG D GLVWLQFW DURPDDQGVXFFXOHQFHDQGZKLFKLVEHVWVHUYHGZLWKDZHOOVWUXF WXUHGZKLWHZLQHZLWKDQDFLGLFIUHVKQHVVDQGDFRPSOH[VPRRWK ERXTXHWVXFKDVD¶9LJQDGHOOH2FKH·9HUGLFFKLRGHL&DVWHOOLGL-HVL &ODVVLFR6XSHULRUHE\)DWWRULD6DQ/RUHQ]R3RWDWRHVDUHRIWHQXVHG DVDQDFFRPSDQLPHQWIRUVHDIRRG7KHEHVWNQRZQGLVKHVLQWKLV FDVHDUHVHDIRRGVDODGRUSRWDWRHVVHUYHGZLWKPXVVHOVVHDEDVV EDNHGLQDSDUFHOVDOPRQRURFWRSXV7KHVHGLVKHVVKRXOGDOZD\V EHVHUYHGZLWKDUDWKHUGHOLFDWHZLQHVXFKDVDQ(WQD%LDQFRD L’angolo dei vini / The wine corner ´&DOD 6LOHQWHµ GHOOD FDQWLQD 6DQWDGL ( FKH GLUH GHOOH WUHQHW WHDOSHVWRHSDWDWHGRYHODGHOLFDWDSUHSDUD]LRQHGHOODVDOVDVL VSRVDLQPDQLHUDHFFH]LRQDOHFRQXQELDQFRGLPHGLDVWUXWWXUD FRQTXDOFKHVHQWRUHHUEDFHRFRPHLO5LYLHUD/LJXUHGL3RQHQWH 3LJDWRGL$VFKHURR´,FDPSL%LDQFRµXQXYDJJLRGL9HUPHQWLQR 7UHEELDQR0DOYDVLDGHOODFDQWLQD*LDFRPHOOL8QFODVVLFRGHOOD FXFLQDVDUGDqLOPDLDOLQRFRQSDWDWHGRYHODVWUXWWXUDGHFL VDPHQWHSLLPSRUWDQWHGHOSLDWWRULFKLHGHXQYLQRSLVWUXW WXUDWR FRPH XQ $OWR $GLJH &DEHUQHW 6DXYLJQRQ ´/DIRDµ GL &ROWHUHQ]LR R XQ 5RVVR &RQHUR GHOO·D]LHQGD /DQDUL 6H q YHUR FKHWDOYROWDJOLDEELQDPHQWLWHUULWRULDOLULVXOWDQRXQSR IRU]DWL qLQYHFHVHQ]DGXEELRXQDVFHOWDD]]HFFDWDGHJXVWDUHLOPDLD OLQRFRQLO5HGHLURVVLVDUGLLO&DQQRQDXGLFXLDPRFRPH *DEULHOH' $QQXQ]LRODYHUVLRQH´1HSHQWHGL2OLHQDµ 8Q DOWUDULFHWWDFODVVLFDqVHQ]·DOWURLOSROORDOIRUQRFRQOHSDWD WH GRYH O·DURPDWLFLWj OD VSH]LDWXUD OD VXFFXOHQ]D H O·XQWXR VLWjGHOSROORXQLWHDOODWHQGHQ]DGROFHGHOODSDWDWDULFKLHGR QRXQYLQRGLPHGLDVWUXWWXUDFRQXQDEDVHDURPDWLFDSLXWWR VWRLQWHUHVVDQWHFRPHXQ$OWR$GLJH3LQRW1HUR´DQFW9DOHQWLQµ GL 6W0LFKDHO (SSDQ XQ 1HEELROR GHOOH /DQJKH XQ 6\UDK GL &XVXPDQR R OR ´6FKLHWWR 6\UDKµ GL 6SDGDIRUD 'L VHJXLWR LO SLDWWRGHOULVWRUDQWH8OLDVVLGL6HQLJDOOLDLOSLDWWRVLFDUDWWHUL]]D SHUO·HTXLOLEULRWUDODWHQGHQ]DGROFHGHOOHSDWDWHHGHOODVHOYDJ JLQDROWUHDOODGHOLFDWDVHQVD]LRQHGLDPDURGHOODFDFFLDJLRQHH PDQGRUOHROWUHDOODGHFLVDDURPDWLFLWjGLWXWWLJOLLQJUHGLHQWL VXWXWWLLOWDUWXIR3HUO·DEELQDPHQWRFRQVLJOLRLO´9DOWXULRµGHOOD 6RFLHWj $JULFROD 9DOWXULR XQ 6DQJLRYHVH FKH KD GHL SURIXPL GLVRWWRERVFRROWUHDGHOLFDWHQRWHVSH]LDWHPDqVHQ]DGXEELR XQYLQRGLEXRQDVWUXWWXUDHEXRQDIUHVFKH]]DFRQGHLWDQQLQL SLXWWRVWRVPXVVDWLULFFRGLVHQVD]LRQLGLPRUELGH]]D )DOHULRGHL&ROOL$VFRODQLD9HUPHQWLQR7RVFDQRRUD¶&DOD6LOHQWH· 9HUPHQWLQRGL*DOOXUDE\6DQWDGL $QG ZKR FRXOG IRUJHW D SODWH RI WUHQHWWH ZLWK SHVWR DQG SRWDWR HV" +HUH WKH GHOLFDF\ RI WKH FRQGLPHQW LV RIIVHW SHUIHFWO\ E\ D PHGLXPERGLHGZKLWHZLWKVXEWOHJUDVV\QRWHVVXFKDVD5LYLHUD /LJXUHGL3RQHQWH3LJDWRE\$VFKHURRU´,&DPSL%LDQFRµDFXYHH RI9HUPHQWLQR7UHEELDQRDQG0DOYDVLDE\WKH*LDFRPHOOLZLQHU\ $FODVVLF6DUGLQLDQGLVKLVVXFNOLQJSLJOHWDQGSRWDWRHVZKHUHWKH GHFLGHGO\ VXEVWDQWLDO VWUXFWXUH RI WKH GLVK GHPDQGV D PRUH IXOO ERGLHGZLQHVXFKDVD¶/DIRD·$OWR$GLJH&DEHUQHW6DXYLJQRQE\ &ROWHUHQ]LRRUD5RVVR&RQHURE\/DQDUL$QGZKLOHLWLVWUXHWKDW SDLULQJVEHWZHHQIRRGDQGZLQHVRIWKHVDPHWHUULWRU\DUHRIWHQD OLWWOHIRUFHGLQWKLVFDVHRQHFDQKDUGO\ÀQGDEHWWHUFRPSDQLRQIRU VXFNOLQJ SLJOHW WKDQ WKH .LQJ RI 6DUGLQLD·V UHGV &DQQRQDX /LNH WKH SRHW *DEULHOH '·$QQXQ]LR P\ IDYRXULWH &DQQRQDX RI DOO LV D ¶1HSHQWH GL 2OLHQDL· $QRWKHU FODVVLF LV URDVW FKLFNHQ ZLWK SRWDWR HV ZKHUH WKH DURPD VSLFLQHVV VXFFXOHQFH DQG IDWWLQHVV RI WKH FKLFNHQFRPELQHGZLWKWKHVZHHWQHVVRIWKHSRWDWRFDOORXWIRUD PHGLXPERGLHGZLQHZLWKLQWULJXLQJDURPDWLFEDVHQRWHVVXFKDV D ¶6DQFW 9DOHQWLQ· $OWR $GLJH 3LQRW 1HUR E\ 6W 0LFKDHO (SSDQ D 1HEELRORGHOOH/DQJKHD6\UDKE\&XVXPDQRRUD¶6FKLHWWR6\UDK· E\ 6SDGDIRUD 7KH IROORZLQJ UHFLSH LV IURP WKH UHVWDXUDQW 8OLDVVL LQ6HQLJDOOLD7KLVLVDGLVKFKDUDFWHULVHGE\WKHEDODQFHEHWZHHQ WKHVZHHWLVKQRWHVRIWKHSRWDWRDQGJDPHIRZOWKHGHOLFDWHELWWHU QHVVRIWKHJDPHDQGDOPRQGVDQGWKHGHFLVLYHDURPDRIDOOWKH LQJUHGLHQWV DV D ZKROH SUHGRPLQDWHG E\ WKH WUXIÁH 7KH ZLQH , UHFRPPHQGIRUWKLVGLVKLV¶9DOWXULR·E\6RFLHWj$JULFROD9DOWXULR D6DQJLRYHVHZKRVHERXTXHWKDVKLQWVRIXQGHUEUXVKDQGGHOLFDWH VSLFHGQRWHV7KLVLVDIXOOERGLHGZLQHZLWKDSOHDVDQWIUHVKQHVV DQGVRIWHGJHGWDQQLQVZLWKDQLQWHQVHVHQVDWLRQRIVPRRWKQHVV Ravioli di patate con interiora, sugo di selvaggina e nocciole caramellate Potato ravioli with giblets, game fowl sauce and caramelised hazelnuts Per la pasta di patate: 1k di patate cotte misto vapore a 145 gradi e setacciate; 300 g di farina 00 e 2 uova intere. Per la farcia: 400 g fegato di pollo o piccione; 200 g di cuori; 100 g di maghetti; 150 g di polpa di caccia (beccaccia o altro); 200 g di fegato grasso di anatra; 250 g di cognac; 150 g di vino bianco; 150 g di tartufo;150 gr di burro; 50 g olio extra vergine; aglio, salvia, rosmarino; 40 g di nocciole. Tritare i fegati, tritare i cuori, tritare la carne di beccaccia. Rosolare l’aglio nell’olio e nel burro tutti gli ingredienti e flambare con il cognac. Fuori dal fuoco mescolare il composto con il fegato grasso di oca tagliato a dadi. Preparare i ravioli di patate stendendo la pasta e formando dei cerchi dove al centro verrà posta una parte di farcia che poi verrà ricoperta con un altro cerchio. Cucinare i ravioli in acqua abbondante, saltarli con un poco di salvia e burro, cospargere la pasta con delle nocciole tostate. Servire. Potato pasta: 1 Kg mixed potatoes steamed at 145 °C and passed through a sieve; 300 g type 00 flour; 2 whole eggs. Filling: 400 g chicken or pigeon livers; 200 g hearts; 100 g gizzards; 150 g game fowl meat (woodcock or other game fowl); 200 g duck foie gras; 250 ml Cognac; 150 ml white wine; 150 g truffle; 150 g butter; 50 g extra virgin olive oil; garlic, sage, rosemary; 40 g hazelnuts. Mince the livers, hearts and the woodcock meat. Sauté the garlic in oil, and sauté all the other ingredients in butter and flambé with the Cognac. Remove from the heat and mix with the goose foie gras cut into dice. To prepare the potato ravioli, roll out the dough, cut into discs, place the filling in the centre of one disc then place another disc on top. Boil the ravioli in plenty of water, toss with a little sage and butter, then sprinkle with toasted hazelnuts and serve. C6, ortolina, 39 RICETTA Sirman 19
Documenti analoghi
Catalogo Cosmetica - La Bussola Ventagli
un’ottima resistenza all’acqua e a qualsiasi fattore di umidità cutanea.
:DWHUSURRI(\H3HQFLOZLWKVRIWPLQH7KHWH[WXUHSURYLGHVDQ
LPPHGLDWHUHOHDVHRIFRORXUZKLOHWKHZDWHUSURRIIRUPXODRII...