Rome - Lonely Planet

Transcript

Plan Your Trip
1
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Rome
“ All you’ve got to do is decide to go
and the hardest part is over.
So go!”
TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PL ANET
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Abigail Blasi, Duncan Garwood
Contents
Plan
PlanYour
YourTrip
Trip page 1
4
Welcome to Rome........... 4
Top Itineraries................18
For Free.......................... 27
Rome’s Top 10................. 6
If You Like.......................20
Eating............................28
What’s New.....................13
Month by Month............ 22
Drinking & Nightlife...36
Need to Know.................14
With Kids........................ 24
Entertainment............ 40
First Time Rome.............16
Like a Local.................... 26
Shopping...................... 44
46
Explore Rome
Ancient Rome................50
Centro Storico............... 70
Tridente, Trevi
& the Quirinale...............98
Vatican City, Borgo
& Prati........................... 120
Monti, Esquilino
& San Lorenzo............. 140
Villa Borghese
& Northern Rome.........181
Trastevere
& Gianicolo................... 158
Southern Rome........... 193
San Giovanni
& Testaccio................... 171
Understand Rome
The Arts.......................239
History..........................226
Architecture.................250
265
Transport.....................266
Language..................... 278
Directory A–Z.............. 272
Index............................. 287
Rome Maps Sleeping......................214
223
Rome Today.................224
Survival Guide Day Trips
from Rome................. 205
297
The Roman
Way of Life....................262
IZZET KERIBAR / GETTY IMAGES ©
ANDREA WYNER / GETTY IMAGES ©
(above) Basilica di
Santa Maria Maggiore
p143 Stained-glass
window.
(right) A gelateria store
display p33
Villa Borghese &
Northern Rome
p181
Vatican City,
Borgo & Prati
p120
Tridente, Trevi &
the Quirinale
p98
Centro
Monti, Esquilino &
Storico
San Lorenzo
p70
p140
Ancient
Rome
Trastevere &
p50
Gianicolo
p158
San Giovanni
& Testaccio
p171
Southern
Rome
p193
LISA KYLE YOUNG / GETTY IMAGES ©
(left) Via del Boschetto
p154 One of Monti’s
best shopping streets.
6
Rome’s
Top 10
Colosseum (p52)
1
No photograph can prepare you for the
thrill of seeing the Colosseum for the first
time. For 2000 years this muscular arena
has stood as the symbol of Roman power, as
the striking embodiment of the terrible awe
that Rome once inspired, and it’s looking
more splendid than ever following a recent
restoration. As you climb its steeply stacked
stands, try to imagine them full of spectators
screaming for blood – a chilling thought.
1 Ancient Rome
Museo e Galleria Borghese (p183)
2
Everybody’s heard of Michelangelo and
the Sistine Chapel, but Rome is as much
about baroque art as it is the Renaissance, and
the Museo e G
alleria Borghese is the place to
see it. You’ll need to book ahead but it’s a small
price to pay to see Bernini’s amazing baroque
sculptures, as well as works by Canova, Caravaggio, Raphael and Titian. And afterwards,
the surrounding Villa Borghese park is the
perfect place to digest what you’ve just seen.
RIGHT: BERNINI’S RATTO DI PROSERPINA (RAPE OF PROSERPINA)
1Villa Borghese & Northern Rome
DREAMSTIME / GETTY IMAGES ©
7
IRISPHOTO1 / GETTY IMAGES ©
8
Pantheon (p72)
3
PL A N YO U R TRI P R ome ’ s T op 1 0
The best preserved of Rome’s ancient
monuments, the Pantheon is a truly
remarkable building. Its huge columned
portico and thick-set walls impress, but
it’s only when you get inside that you get
the full measure of the place. It’s vast, and
you’ll feel very small as you look up at the
record-breaking dome soaring above your
head. Adding to the effect are the shafts
of light that stream in through the central
oculus (the circular opening at the dome’s
apex), illuminating the royal tombs set into
the circular marble-clad walls.
1 Centro Storico
Vatican Museums (p126)
4
Rome boasts many artistic highlights,
but few are as overpowering as Michelangelo’s frescoes in the Sistine Chapel. A kaleidoscopic barrage of colours and
images, they come as the grand finale of
the Vatican Museums, Rome’s largest and
most popular art museum. Inside the vast
complex, kilometre upon kilometre of corridors are lined with classical sculptures,
paintings and tapestries as they lead
inexorably towards the Raphael Rooms,
a suite of four rooms brilliantly frescoed
by Raphael, and, beyond that, the Sistine
Chapel. RIGHT: GALLERY OF MAPS
1 Vatican City,
Borgo & Prati
JUSTIN FOULKES / GETTY IMAGES ©
9
IZZET KERIBAR / GETTY IMAGES ©
MAREMAGNUM / GETTY IMAGES ©
St Peter’s
Basilica (p122)
5
You don’t have to be a believer to be bowled over
by St Peter’s Basilica, Rome’s
largest and most spectacular
church. Everything about the
place is astonishing, from
the sweeping piazza that announces it to the grandiose
facade and unbelievably
opulent interior. Topping
everything is Michelangelo’s
extraordinary dome, a mould-
breaking masterpiece of
Renaissance architecture
and one of Rome’s landmark
sights. This is a building that
was designed to inspire awe,
and even in a city of churches
like Rome it stands head and
shoulders above everything
else.
1 Vatican City,
Borgo & Prati
10
Via Appia
Antica (p195)
6
The most famous of
Rome’s ancient roads,
and one of the city’s most
sought-after addresses, the
Appian Way is a gorgeous
place to be on a clear,
sunny morning. Running
through lush green fields
and littered with piles of
greying ruins, it’s the very
picture of pastoral Italian
beauty. But the bucolic
scenery belies the road’s
bloodstained history. It
was here that Spartacus
and 6000 of his slave army
were crucified, and it was
here that the early Christians buried their dead in
the catacombs.
1 Southern Rome
Capitoline
Museums (p61)
7
In ancient times, the
Campidoglio (Capitoline Hill) was home to
Rome’s two most important temples. Nowadays,
the main reason to make
the short, steep climb to
the top is to admire the
views and visit the Capitoline Museums on Piazza del
Campidoglio. The world’s
oldest public museums
harbour some fantastic
classical statuary, including
the celebrated Lupa Capitolina (Capitoline Wolf), an
icon of early Etruscan art,
and some really wonderful
paintings. And make sure
you bring your camera
for the masonry littered
around the entrance
courtyard. RIGHT: STATUE OF
CONSTANTINE
An Evening in
Trastevere (p163)
8
One of the great joys
of Rome is eating and
drinking well, especially in
summer when it’s warm
enough to dine al fresco,
and the city’s animated
streets are packed until the
early hours. And nowhere
is better for a night out
than the picture-perfect
neighbourhood of Trastevere. Over the river from
the historic centre, its
medieval lanes, hidden
piazzas and pastel-hued
palazzi (mansions) harbour
hundreds of bars, cafes,
trattorias and restaurants
catering to a nightly crowd
of up-for-it Romans and
besotted visitors.
5 Trastevere &
Gianicolo
1 Ancient Rome
JANNISWERNER / GETTY IMAGES ©
11
MARK HORN / GETTY IMAGES ©
GLENN BEANLAND / GETTY IMAGES ©
12
9
PL A N YO U R TRI P R O M E ’ S T O P 1 0
A stop at Rome’s largest and most
famous fountain is a traditional rite
of passage for visitors to Rome. Every day
crowds gather to toss coins into the fountain’s water and ensure that one day they’ll
return to the Eternal City. The fountain,
designed by Nicola Salvi in the 18th century,
is a gloriously over-the-top rococo affair
depicting wild horses, mythical figures and
cascading rock falls. After a lengthy restoration, unveiled in 2015, it’s looking particularly splendid, and is most spellbinding when
illuminated after night falls.
KOCHMANSKI / GETTY IMAGES ©
Trevi Fountain (p102)
1 Tridente, Trevi & the Quirinale
DIGITALER LUMPENSAMMLER / GETTY IMAGES ©
Roman Forum & Palatine (p57)
10
To walk through the tumbledown ruins of the Roman Forum is to retrace the
footsteps of the great figures of Roman history, such as Julius Caesar and
Pompey. However broken the remains, it’s a stirring experience to stand at the heart
of the R
oman Empire. Nearby, the Palatino (Palatine Hill), a green expanse of evocative
ruins, is where it all began, where Romulus supposedly killed Remus and founded the
city in 753 BC, and where the ancient Roman emperors lived in unimaginable luxury.
1 Ancient Rome
297
Rome Maps
Sights
Beach
Bird Sanctuary
Buddhist
Castle/Palace
Christian
Confucian
Hindu
Islamic
Jain
Jewish
Monument
Museum/Gallery/Historic Building
Ruin
Shinto
Sikh
Taoist
Winery/Vineyard
Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary
Other Sight
Activities,
Courses & Tours
Bodysurfing
Diving
Canoeing/Kayaking
Course/Tour
Sento Hot Baths/Onsen
Skiing
Snorkelling
Surfing
Swimming/Pool
Walking
Windsurfing
Other Activity
Sleeping
Sleeping
Camping
Eating
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Drinking & Nightlife
Cafe
Entertainment
Entertainment
Shopping
Shopping
Information
Bank
Embassy/Consulate
Hospital/Medical
Internet
Police
Post Office
Telephone
Toilet
Tourist Information
Other Information
Geographic
Beach
Gate
Hut/Shelter
Lighthouse
Lookout
Mountain/Volcano
Oasis
Park
Pass
Picnic Area
Waterfall
Population
Capital (National)
Capital (State/Province)
City/Large Town
Town/Village
Transport
Airport
Border crossing
Bus
Cable car/Funicular
Cycling
Ferry
Metro station
Monorail
Parking
Petrol station
S-Bahn/Subway station
Taxi
T-bane/Tunnelbana station
Train station/Railway
Tram
Tube station
U-Bahn/Underground station
Other Transport
Routes
Tollway
Freeway
Primary
Secondary
Tertiary
Lane
Unsealed road
Road under construction
Plaza/Mall
Steps
Tunnel
Pedestrian overpass
Walking Tour
Walking Tour detour
Path/Walking Trail
Boundaries
International
State/Province
Disputed
Regional/Suburb
Marine Park
Cliff
Wall
Hydrography
River, Creek
Intermittent River
Canal
Water
Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake
Reef
Areas
Airport/Runway
Beach/Desert
Cemetery (Christian)
Cemetery (Other)
Glacier
Mudflat
Park/Forest
Sight (Building)
Sportsground
Swamp/Mangrove
Note: Not all symbols displayed above
appear on the maps in this book
298
TRIESTE
FLAMINIO
PARIOLI
TRIONFALE
VILLA
BORGHESE
"
Ð
4
TRIDENTE
CAMPO SALLUSTIANO
MARZIO
PRATI
VATICAN CITY
(CITTÀ DEL
VATICANO) BORGO
"
Ð
2
COLONNA
PONTE
"
Ð
5
PARIONE
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PIGNA
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TIBURTINO
SAN LORENZO
ESQUILINO
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Ð
9
"
Ð
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MONTEVERDE
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10
TREVI
MONTI
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3
TRASTEVERE
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7
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MAP INDEX
1 Ancient Rome (p300)
2 Centro Storico
North (p304)
3 Centro Storico
South (p306)
4 Tridente, Trevi & the
Quirinale (p308)
7 Trastevere
& Gianicolo (p316)
10 Villa Borghese &
Northern Rome (p324)
5 Vatican City, Borgo
& Prati (p312)
8 San Lorenzo (p319)
11 Southern Rome (p326)
6 San Giovanni
& Testaccio (p314)
9 Monti & Esquilino (p320)
æ Sights
(p64)
6 Arcate Severiane ............................ D8
7 Arco di Costantino...........................F6
8 Arco di Giano ................................... B6
9 Arco di Settimio Severo ................. C4
10 Arco di Tito .......................................E5
11 Basilica di Massenzio ......................E4
12 Basilica di San Marco ..................... A2
13 Basilica di SS Cosma e
Damiano........................................ D4
14 Basilica Fulvia Aemilia.................... D4
15 Basilica Giulia .................................. C4
16 Basilica Ulpia ................................... C2
17 Bocca della Verità............................A7
18 Capanne Romulee .......................... C6
19 Carcere Mamertino ........................ C4
20 Casa delle Vestali............................ D5
21 Casa di Augusto.............................. C6
22 Casa di Livia..................................... C6
æ Top Sights
(p52)
1 Capitoline Museums....................... B4
2 Colosseum....................................... G6
3 Imperial Forums.............................. C2
4 Palatino ............................................ D7
5 Roman Forum ................................. D5
43
42
41
40
39
38
37
36
35
34
33
32
31
30
29
28
27
26
25
24
Velabro.......................................... B6
Chiesa di San Lorenzo in
Miranda ............................... (see 60)
Chiesa di Santa Maria Antiqua...... C5
Chiesa di Santa Maria in
Aracoeli ......................................... B3
Circo Massimo ................................ C8
Colonna di Foca .............................. C4
Colonna di Traiano ......................... C2
Complesso del Vittoriano .............. C2
Cordonata........................................ B3
Criptoportico................................... D6
Curia ................................................. C4
Domus Augustana.......................... D7
Domus Flavia................................... D6
Domus Severiana ............................E8
Foro di Augusto............................... D2
Foro di Cesare................................. C2
Foro di Nerva................................... D3
Foro di Traiano ................................ C2
Foro di Vespasiano ......................... D3
Forum Boarium................................A7
Il Vittoriano ...................................... B2
Lapis Niger....................................... C4
23 Chiesa di San Giorgio in
66
65
64
63
62
61
60
59
58
57
56
55
54
53
52
51
50
49
48
47
46
45
Fori Imperiali ................................. D1
Museo Centrale del
Risorgimento.................................B3
Museo Nazionale del Palazzo
Venezia........................................... A1
Museo Palatino ................................D7
Orti Farnesiani................................. D6
Palazzo dei Conservatori................B3
Palazzo Nuovo .................................B3
Palazzo Senatorio........................... B4
Palazzo Venezia............................... B1
Piazza del Campidoglio...................B3
Portico degli Dei Consenti............. C4
Roma dal Cielo .................................B2
Roman Insula ...................................B3
Rostrum ........................................... C4
Stadio ............................................... D8
Tempio della Concordia................. C4
Tempio di Antonino e Faustina..... D4
Tempio di Castore e Polluce ......... C4
Tempio di Ercole Vincitore .............A6
Tempio di Giulio Cesare................. D4
Tempio di Portunus.........................A6
Tempio di Romolo .......................... D4
Tempio di Saturno.......................... C4
44 Mercati di Traiano Museo dei
67 Tempio di Vespasiano ....................C4
ÿ Sleeping
(p216)
79 Forty Seven ......................................A6
80 Hotel Forum ..................................... E3
81 Nerva Boutique Hotel .....................D2
82 Residenza Maritti ............................D3
þ Shopping
(p69)
78 Mercato di Circo Massimo .............B6
û Drinking & Nightlife
(p69)
75 0,75 ...................................................C7
76 Caffè Capitolino ...............................B4
77 Cavour 313 ....................................... E3
ú Eating
(p67)
72 Alimentari Pannella Carmela .........B5
Ristorante Roof Garden
Circus ................................... (see 79)
73 San Teo.............................................B7
74 Terre e Domus ................................. C1
71 Via Sacra...........................................D4
70 Torre delle Milizie ............................ D1
69 Terme di Settimio Severo ..............E8
68 Tempio di Vesta...............................D5
ANCIENT ROME
ANCIENT ROME Map on p300
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301
302
CENTRO STORICO NORTH
Map on p304
æ Top Sights
(p72)
1 Chiesa del Gesù ......................................... G6
2 Chiesa di San Luigi dei Francesi ............... E4
3 Galleria Doria Pamphilj...............................H5
4 Museo Nazionale Romano: Palazzo
Altemps ..................................................... E3
5 Pantheon...................................................... F4
6 Piazza Navona.............................................E4
36 Palazzo di Montecitorio ............................. G3
37 Palazzo Farnese ......................................... D7
38 Palazzo Madama ........................................ E4
39 Palazzo Pamphilj ........................................ D5
40 Palazzo Spada ............................................ D7
41 Pasquino ...................................................... D5
42 Piazza Colonna ...........................................H3
43 Piazza di Pietra ...........................................G4
44 Piè di Marmo ............................................... G5
æ Sights
(p75)
45 Stadio di Domiziano ................................... D3
7 Arco degli Acetari .......................................D6
46 Tempio di Adriano ......................................G4
8 Arco Farnese ...............................................C7
47 Torre dell'Orologio ..................................... C4
9 Area Sacra ................................................... F6
48 Via dei Coronari .......................................... C3
10 Basilica di Santa Maria Sopra
49 Via del Governo Vecchio ........................... D5
Minerva .....................................................G5
50 Via Giulia ...................................................... B6
11 Campo de' Fiori ...........................................D6
12 Cat Sanctuary ............................................. F7 ú Eating
(p83)
13 Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista dei
51 Alfredo e Ada .............................................. B4
Fiorentini ...................................................A4
52 Armando al Pantheon ................................ F4
14 Chiesa di San Lorenzo in Lucina ............... G1
53 Baguetteria del Fico ................................... D4
15 Chiesa di Santa Maria della Pace &
54 Bar del Fico.................................................. C4
Chiostro del Bramante............................D4
55 Campo de' Fiori........................................... D6
16 Chiesa di Sant'Agnese in Agone ...............D4
56 Casa Bleve................................................... E5
17 Chiesa di Sant'Agostino ............................. E3
57 Casa Coppelle ..............................................F3
18 Chiesa di Sant'Andrea della Valle .............E6
Chiostro del Bramante Caffè ........... (see 15)
19 Chiesa di Sant'Eligio degli Orefici .............B6
58 Ciao Checca .................................................F2
20 Chiesa di Sant'Ignazio di Loyola .............. H4
59 Cul de Sac.................................................... D5
21 Chiesa di Sant'Ivo alla Sapienza ............... E5
60 Da Francesco .............................................. C4
22 Chiesa Nuova ..............................................C5
61 Da Tonino .................................................... C4
23 Colonna di Marco Aurelio ......................... H3
62 Dal Cavalier Gino ........................................ G2
24 Elefantino .....................................................G5
63 Dar Filettaro a Santa Barbara....................E7
25 Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi......................... E4
64 Ditirambo..................................................... D6
26 Fontana del Moro........................................ E5
65 Enoteca Corsi.............................................. G6
27 Fontana del Nettuno...................................E4
66 Fiocco di Neve............................................. F4
28 Largo di Torre Argentina ........................... F6
67 Forno di Campo de' Fiori ........................... D6
29 Museo Barracco di Scultura Antica .........D6
68 Forno Roscioli ..............................................E7
30 Museo Criminologico .................................B5
69 Gelateria del Teatro ................................... C3
31 Museo di Roma ...........................................D5
70 Giolitti............................................................F3
32 Museo Nazionale Romano: Crypta
71 Grappolo D'Oro........................................... D6
Balbi...........................................................G7
72 Green T ........................................................ G5
33 Obelisk..........................................................G3
73 I Dolci di Nonna Vincenza.......................... D7
34 Palazzo Chigi .............................................. H3
74 La Campana ................................................ E2
35 Palazzo della Cancelleria ...........................D6
75 La Ciambella ............................................... F6
303
76 La Focaccia..................................................D4
113 Arsenale....................................................... D6
77 La Rosetta.................................................... F4
114 Bartolucci .................................................... G4
78 Lilli.................................................................D3
115 Bottega Pio La Torre ...................................F2
79 Lo Zozzone ..................................................D4
116 Casali............................................................ B3
117 Confetteria Moriondo & Gariglio .............. G5
81 Osteria del Sostegno .................................. F4
118 daDADA 52 .................................................. D7
82 Osteria dell'Ingegno ...................................G3
119 De Sanctis ................................................... G4
83 Pasticceria De Bellis ...................................E6
120 I Colori di Dentro......................................... B5
84 Pizzeria la Montecarlo................................D5
121 Ibiz – Artigianato in Cuoio ..........................E7
85 Renato e Luisa............................................. F6
122 Le Artigiane ..................................................F5
86 Sergio alle Grotte ........................................D7
123 Le Tele di Carlotta ...................................... D3
87 Supplizio ......................................................B5
124 Loco.............................................................. D6
88 Venchi........................................................... F4
125 Luna & L'Altra ............................................. D5
89 Vice ............................................................... F6
126 Materie......................................................... G5
90 Zazà .............................................................. E4
127 Mondello Ottica .......................................... C5
128 Nardecchia .................................................. D4
(p90) 129 Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di
91 Barnum Cafe ...............................................C5
Santa Maria Novella ................................ E4
92 Caffè della Pace ..........................................D4 130 Omero e Cecilia .......................................... C5
93 Caffè Sant'Eustachio.................................. F5 131 Rachele ........................................................ D6
94 Ciampini ....................................................... G1 132 SBU .............................................................. D5
95 Circus ...........................................................C4 133 Stilo Fetti ..................................................... G4
96 Etablì.............................................................C4 134 Tartarughe .................................................. G5
97 Fandango Incontro ..................................... F2 135 Tempi Moderni ........................................... C5
98 Gran Caffè La Caffettiera.......................... H4 136 Vestiti Usati Cinzia ..................................... C5
99 Il Goccetto....................................................B5 137 ZouZou......................................................... D5
100 Jerry Thomas Project.................................B5
101 La Casa del Caffè Tazza d'Oro ................. G4 Ø Sports & Activities
102 L'Angolo Divino ...........................................D7 138 Roman Kitchen ........................................... H5
103 L'Emporio alla Pace ....................................D4 139 Rome Boat Experience .............................. B2
104 No.Au............................................................D3
105 Salotto 42 ................................................... G4 ÿ Sleeping
(p217)
140 Albergo Abruzzi .......................................... F4
ý Entertainment
(p92) 141 Albergo Cesàri ............................................H4
106 Teatro Argentina......................................... F6 142 Albergo del Sole.......................................... E6
107 Teatro dell'Orologio....................................C4 143 Argentina Residenza.................................. F6
144 Casa di Santa Brigida................................. C6
þ Shopping
(p92) 145 Dimora degli Dei .........................................G4
108 A S Roma Store.......................................... H3 146 Hotel Campo de' Fiori ................................ D6
109 Ai Monasteri ................................................ E3 147 Hotel Due Torri ........................................... E2
110 Al Sogno ....................................................... E3 148 Hotel Navona .............................................. E5
111 Alberta Gloves ............................................ G6
Hotel Pensione Barrett ...................(see 143)
112 Aldo Fefè ...................................................... F3 149 Hotel Teatro di Pompeo ............................ E6
80 Matricianella ................................................ G1
304
Key on p302
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(p89) û Drinking & Nightlife
(p91)
1 Area Archeologica del Teatro di Marcello e
10 Alberto Pica ...............................................................D2
20 Open Baladin ............................................................. D1
del Portico d'Ottavia...............................................F2
11 Antico Forno Urbani ..................................................E1
2 Chiesa di San Bartolomeo....................................... E3
12 Beppe e i suoi Formaggi........................................... D1 ý Entertainment
3 Chiesa di San Nicola in Carcere...............................F3
13 Boccione .....................................................................E1
21 Isola del Cinema........................................................E4
4 Fontana del Mascherone..........................................A1
14 Cremeria Romana..................................................... E2
5 Fontana delle Tartarughe.........................................E1
15 Nonna Betta...............................................................E2 þ Shopping
(p94)
6 Jewish Ghetto............................................................ E2
16 Piperno .......................................................................D2
22 Borini........................................................................... C1
7 Museo Ebraico di Roma........................................... E2
17 Salumeria Roscioli.................................................... D1
8 Palazzo Cenci............................................................D2
18 Sora Lella ................................................................... E3
9 Teatro di Marcello......................................................F2
19 Vecchia Roma............................................................ F2
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Via del Gesù
26 Museo Missionario di Propaganda Fide ................. D5
Obelisk................................................................ (see 5)
Palazzo Valentini.......................................................D8
Piazza Barberini ........................................................ F5
Piazza del Quirinale .................................................. E7
Pincio Hill Gardens.................................................... C1
Porta del Popolo.........................................................A1
Scuderie Papali al Quirinale ..................................... E7
Via dei Condotti.........................................................C4
Via Vittorio Veneto.................................................... F4
Villa Medici .................................................................D2
æ Sights
(p103) 30
8 Basilica dei Santi Apostoli ....................................... D8
31
9 Casa di Goethe .......................................................... B2
32
10 Chiesa della Trinità dei Monti.................................. D3
33
11 Chiesa di San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane .............G6
34
12 Chiesa di Santa Maria dei Miracoli ..........................B1
35
13 Chiesa di Santa Maria in Montesanto .....................B1
14 Chiesa di Sant'Andrea al Quirinale ......................... F6 ú Eating
(p110)
15 Città dell'Acqua......................................................... D6
36 Al Gran Sasso ............................................................ A2
16 Convento dei Cappuccini......................................... F4
37 Al Moro .......................................................................D6
17 Fontana del Tritone ...................................................F5
38 Alice Pizza ..................................................................G4
18 Fontana delle Api ...................................................... F4
39 All'Oro ......................................................................... A2
19 Gagosian Gallery ....................................................... E5
40 Antica Enoteca ..........................................................C3
20 Galleria d'Arte Moderna ........................................... E5
41 Antico Forno ..............................................................D6
29
28
65 Osteria Margutta.......................................................C3
64 Nino.............................................................................D4
63 Nanà Vini e Cucina .................................................... E6
62 Le Tamerici ................................................................D6
60 Il Palazzetto ...............................................................D3
61 Imàgo ..........................................................................D4
59 Il Margutta RistorArte...............................................B2
58 Il Chianti......................................................................D6
57 Ginger .........................................................................C4
56 Gina .............................................................................D3
55 Forno Cerulli ..............................................................G4
54 Fiaschetteria Beltramme .........................................C4
53 Fatamorgana .............................................................B2
52 Enoteca Regionale Palatium....................................C5
51 Edy ..............................................................................B2
50 Dei Gracchi.................................................................A2
49 Dal Bolognese............................................................ A1
47 Da Michele..................................................................D7
48 Da Pietro.....................................................................B2
25 Museo delle Cere ......................................................D8
27
45 Casa Conti..................................................................C3
46 Colline Emiliane ......................................................... F5
24 Museo dell'Ara Pacis ................................................ A4
43 Baccano......................................................................D6
44 Buccone......................................................................B2
23 Mausoleo di Augusto ................................................ A3
42 Babette .......................................................................B2
22 Keats–Shelley House ...............................................D4
21 Galleria Valentina Moncada.....................................C2
Map on p308
æ Top Sights
(p100)
1 Chiesa di Santa Maria del Popolo ............................B1
2 Galleria Colonna........................................................ E8
3 Galleria Nazionale d'Arte Antica: Palazzo
Barberini ................................................................. G5
4 Palazzo del Quirinale .................................................E7
5 Piazza del Popolo.......................................................B1
6 Piazza di Spagna & the Spanish Steps .................. D4
7 Trevi Fountain ........................................................... D6
TRIDENTE, TREVI & QUIRINALE
310
87
97
96
95
94
93
92
91
90
89
88
102
101
ý Entertainment
(p117) 98
79 Gregory's ................................................................... E4
80 Teatro Quirino ........................................................... D7
99
81 Teatro Sistina .............................................................F5 100
(p116)
72 Caffè Greco................................................................ C4
73 Canova ........................................................................B1
74 Canova Tadolini ........................................................ C3
75 Ciampini 2 .................................................................. D3
La Scena.......................................................... (see 114)
76 Micca Club ..................................................................F5
77 Moma .........................................................................G4
78 Rosati...........................................................................A1
Stravinskij Bar – Hotel de Russie ................ (see 113)
85
71 Venchi......................................................................... C3
86
84
70 San Crispino .............................................................. E6
105 Vertecchi Art..............................................................C3
Bottega di Marmoraro.....................................(see 21)
Bulgari ........................................................................C4 Ø Sports & Activities
(p117)
C.U.C.I.N.A. ................................................................ C3
Hotel De Russie Wellness Zone.................... (see 113)
DaDADA .....................................................................B2 106 Kami Spa .................................................................... F5
Danielle.......................................................................C5
Discount dell'Alta Moda ...........................................B2 ÿ Sleeping
(p218)
Fabriano .....................................................................B2 107 Babuino 181................................................................B2
Fausto Santini............................................................C4 108 Casa Fabbrini.............................................................C3
Fendi ...........................................................................B4 109 Crossing Condotti .....................................................C4
Focacci .......................................................................B4 110 Daphne Inn ................................................................. F4
Fratelli Fabbi .............................................................. C3 111 Gregoriana .................................................................D4
Furla ............................................................................D3 112 Hotel Barocco ............................................................ F5
Galleria Alberto Sordi ...............................................C6 113 Hotel de Russie.......................................................... B1
Il Mare ......................................................................... A2 114 Hotel Locarno ............................................................A2
La Rinascente ............................................................C6 115 Hotel Modigliani......................................................... E4
Libreria Giunti al Punto ............................................D8 116 Hotel Mozart ..............................................................B3
L'Olfattorio ....................................................... (see 36) 117 Hotel Panda ...............................................................C4
Lucia Odescalchi .......................................................D8 118 Hotel Suisse ............................................................... E4
Mercato delle Stampe .............................................. A5 119 La Piccola Maison ..................................................... F4
Pelletteria Nives ........................................................B4 120 Margutta 54 ...............................................................C3
Sermoneta .................................................................D4 121 Margutta Glamour Studios ......................................C2
83 Barrilà Boutique ........................................................C2
103 Tod's ...........................................................................B4
104 Underground ............................................................. E4
69 Pompi ......................................................................... C3
68 Pizza Ré...................................................................... B2
(p117)
82 Anglo-American Bookshop .....................................D5
67 Pastificio .................................................................... C3
66 Otello alla Concordia ................................................ C3 þ Shopping
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VATICAN CIT Y, BORGO & PR ATI
31 2
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æ Top Sights
(p122)
11 Vatican Grottoes ..............C5
24 Osteria dell'Angelo .......... D2 ý Entertainment
(p138) Ø Sports & Activities
(p271)
1 St Peter's Basilica............ C5
25 Pizzarium.......................... A4
35 Alexanderplatz ................. C3
44 Roma Cristiana.................D5
2 Vatican Museums ............C4 ú Eating
(p135)
26 Pizzeria Amalfi ................. D4
36 Auditorium
12 Cacio e Pepe ......................F1
27 Ristorante
Conciliazione ................. E5 ÿ Sleeping
(p219)
æ Sights
(p134)
13 Dal Toscano ......................D3
L'Arcangelo ....................F4
37 Fonclea.............................. E4
45 Colors Hotel ...................... E4
3 Castel Sant'Angelo .......... F5
14 Del Frate ............................D3
28 Romeo............................... D3
38 Teatro Ghione ..................D6
46 Fabio Massimo Design
4 Museo Storico Artistico .. C5
15 Dolce Maniera...................D2
29 Settembrini ....................... F1
Hotel ............................... E3
5 Necropoli Via
16 Fa-Bìo.................................D3
30 Velavevodetto Ai
þ Shopping
(p139)
47 Hotel Bramante................ E5
17 Fatamorgana ....................C2
48 Hotel San Pietrino ............D2
Triumphalis....................B4
Quiriti...............................E3
39 Antica Manufattura
6 Ponte Sant'Angelo........... F5
18 Gelarmony......................... F3
Cappelli .......................... D3 49 Le Stanze di Orazio.......... F3
7 St Peter's Basilica
19 Hostaria Dino e Tony .......C3 û Drinking & Nightlife (p138)
40 Castroni............................. E4
Dome .............................. C5 20 Il Sorpasso ........................E4
31 Art Studio Café .................F3
41 Enoteca Costantini ..........G4
8 St Peter's Square............. D5
21 La Veranda........................ E5
32 Makasar ............................ D4
42 Piazza dell' Unità.............. E4
9 Tomb of St Peter.............. C5
22 Mondo Arancina ............... F3
33 Passaguai ..........................E4
43 Rechicle............................. E3
10 Vatican Gardens ..............B4
23 Old Bridge .........................D4
34 Sciascia Caffè ...................E3
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22 Cafè Cafè.........................E1
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23 Caffè Propaganda.......... E1
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31 8
TRASTEVERE & GIANICOLO Map on p316
æ Top Sights
(p160)
37 Sora Mirella Caffè.......................................H4
1 Basilica di Santa Cecilia in
38 Valzani ..........................................................F3
Trastevere.................................................H5
2 Basilica di Santa Maria in
(p168)
Trastevere.................................................E4
39 Bar le Cinque............................................... E3
3 Villa Farnesina.............................................D2
40 Bar San Calisto ........................................... F4
41 Bar Stuzzichini............................................ B2
æ Sights
(p161) 42 Big Star ........................................................ D5
4 Anita Garibaldi Equestrian
43 Da Biagio...................................................... E3
Monument ................................................B2 44 Freni e Frizioni..............................................F3
5 Chiesa di San Francesco d'Assisi a
45 Il Barretto .................................................... D5
Ripa........................................................... G6 46 La Mescita ....................................................F3
6 Fontana dell'Acqua Paola ..........................C4
47 Ma Che Siete Venuti a Fà .......................... E2
7 Galleria Nazionale d'Arte Antica di
48 Ombre Rosse .............................................. E3
Palazzo Corsini.........................................D2
8 Garibaldi Monument...................................B2 ý Entertainment
(p169)
9 Gianicolo ......................................................C3
49 Alcazar Cinema ...........................................F5
10 Museo di Roma in Trastevere ...................E3
50 Big Mama..................................................... F6
11 Orto Botanico..............................................D2
51 Lettere Caffè Gallery.................................. F6
12 Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere.............E4
52 Nuovo Sacher ..............................................F7
13 Porta Settimiana.........................................E2
53 Teatro Vascello........................................... B7
14 Tempietto di Bramante & Chiesa
di San Pietro in Montorio ........................D4 þ Shopping
(p170)
54 Almost Corner Bookshop...........................F3
ú Eating
(p163)
55 Antica Caciara Trasteverina ......................F5
15 Bir & Fud ......................................................E2
56 La Cravatta su Misura................................H5
16 Ciuri Ciuri ..................................................... E5
57 Officina della Carta..................................... E2
17 Da Augusto .................................................. F3
58 Open Door Bookshop ................................H4
18 Da Corrado ..................................................E3
59 Porta Portese Market ................................ G7
19 Da Enzo ........................................................H5
60 Roma-Store.................................................G4
20 Da Olindo......................................................D3
61 Scala Quattorodici Clothing...................... E3
21 Da Teo ......................................................... H4
22 Dar Poeta .....................................................E3 ÿ Sleeping
(p221)
23 Fatamorgana – Trastevere ....................... E5
Arco del Lauro................................... (see 68)
24 Fior di Luna .................................................. F4
62 Buonanotte Garibaldi................................. D2
25 Forno la Renella .......................................... F3
63 Donna Camilla Savelli ................................D3
26 Glass Hostaria.............................................E3
64 Hotel Santa Maria....................................... E3
27 Innocenti ..................................................... G4
65 La Casa di Kaia............................................H5
28 La Gensola .................................................. H4
66 La Foresteria Orsa Maggiore .....................D1
29 Le Mani in Pasta..........................................H5
Maria-Rosa Guesthouse.................. (see 65)
30 Old Bridge ....................................................E3
67 Relais Le Clarisse ........................................F5
31 Panattoni..................................................... G4
68 Residenza Arco de' Tolomei .....................H4
32 Paris..............................................................F4
69 Residenza Santa Maria.............................. F4
33 Pianostrada Laboratorio di Cucina ..........E3
70 Villa Della Fonte ...........................................F3
34 Piazza San Cosimato ................................. E5
35 Pizzeria Ivo................................................... F4
36 Sisini ............................................................. F5
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æ Sights
(p147) û Drinking & Nightlife
(p153)
1 Basilica di San Lorenzo Fuori le
15 Esc Atelier ....................................................C1
Mura .......................................................... C1
16 Gente di San Lorenzo ................................ B2
2 Chiesa di Santa Croce in
17 Il Tiaso.......................................................... D4
Gerusalemme...........................................B4
18 Locanda Atlantide ...................................... B3
3 Cimitero di Campo Verano........................ D1
19 Vicious Club ................................................ B3
4 Museo Storico della Liberazione ..............A4
5 National Museum of Musical
ý Entertainment
(p153)
Instruments ..............................................B4 20 Istituzione Universitaria dei
6 Pastificio Cerere ......................................... C1
Concerti .....................................................B1
7 Porta Maggiore ...........................................B3
21 Teatro Ambra Jovinelli............................... A2
ú Eating
(p150) þ Shopping
(p155)
8 Formula Uno................................................B2
22 La Grande Officina ..................................... B2
9 Palazzo del Freddo di Giovanni
23 Nuovo Mercato Esquilino .......................... A2
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Fontana delle
Naiadi........................(see 16)
Museo Nazionale d'Arte
Orientale............................ E7
Museo Nazionale
Romano: Terme di
Diocleziano........................ E2
Palazzo delle
Esposizioni ........................B4
Piazza della Repubblica ..... D3
Piazza Vittorio
Emanuele II ....................... G7
Trofei di Mario ..................... G7
Villa Aldobrandini ................ A5
12 Domus Aurea.......................C8
æ Sights
(p144)
16
4 Aula Ottagona ..................D2
17
5 Basilica di Santa Maria
degli Angeli ....................D2
18
6 Chiesa di San Martino
19
ai Monti........................... D7
7 Chiesa di San Paolo
ú Eating
(p148)
entro le Mura .................C3 20 Agata e Romeo .................... E6
8 Chiesa di Santa Lucia
21 Ciuri Ciuri .............................B6
in Selci ............................ D7
22 Da Valentino......................... A5
9 Chiesa di Santa
23 Dall'Antò............................... A7
Prassede ........................ E6 24 Doozo.................................... B5
10 Chiesa di Santa
25 Fatamorgana – Monti.........C6
Pudenziana....................C5
26 Forno da Milvio ....................B6
11 Chiesa di
27 Gainn..................................... F2
Sant'Eusebio ................. F6
æ Top Sights
(p142)
1 Basilica di San Pietro
in Vincoli......................... B7
2 Basilica di Santa Maria
Maggiore ........................ E5
3 Museo Nazionale
Romano: Palazzo
Massimo alle
Terme ............................. E3
MONTI & ESQUILINO Map on p320
Gelataria
47 Finnegans..........................B7
65 Mercato Monti
dell'Angeletto..... (see 74) 48 Ice Club.............................. A7
Urban Market...............B6
28 Indian Fast Food.............G6
49 La Barrique .......................B5
66 Podere Vecciano ............A6
29 La Carbonara.................. B6
50 La Bottega del Caffè ........B6
67 Spot..................................A5
30 La Gallina Bianca............D4
68 Tina Sondergaard...........B6
31 L'Asino d'Oro .................. B5 ý Entertainment
(p153)
32 Open Colonna................. A4
51 Blackmarket .....................C5 Ø Sports & Activities
33 Panella l'Arte del
52 Charity Café......................B5
69 Bici & Baci .......................D3
Pane.............................. E7
53 Orbis ..................................D5
70 Vino Roma.......................D7
34 Pasticceria Regoli .......... E7
54 Teatro dell'Opera di
Roma ..............................D4 ÿ Sleeping
(p220)
35 Roscioli .............................F7
36 Temakinho ...................... A6
71 Alessandro Palace
37 Trattoria Monti ............... E6 þ Shopping
(p154)
Hostel............................G2
38 Trimani .............................E1
55 101 ......................................C6
72 Beehive ............................G2
39 Urbana 47........................C6
56 Abito ..................................B6
73 Blue Hostel...................... E6
57 Arion Esposizioni..............B4
74 Duca d'Alba .....................B6
û Drinking & Nightlife (p152)
58 Creje...................................B5
75 Hotel Artorius .................B5
40 Ai Tre Scalini................... B6
59 Fabio Piccioni ...................B6
76 Papa Germano.................E1
41 Al Vino al Vino................. A6
60 Feltrinelli
77 Radisson Blu Es..............G6
Bar Zest at the
International ..................C2
78 Residenza Cellini ............C3
Radisson Blu Es..(see 77)
61 Giacomo Santini...............D5
79 Villa Spalletti Trivelli.......A4
42 Bohemien........................ B6
62 IBS.it ..................................C3
80 Welrome Hotel................ E2
43 Castroni........................... B4
63 La Bottega del
44 Druid's Den ..................... E6
Cioccolato ......................B7
45 Fafiuché........................... A7
64 MAS ................................... F6
46 Fiddler's Elbow ...............D6
MONTI & ESQUILINO
322
32 3
VILLA BORGHESE & NORTHERN ROME Map on p324
VILL A BORGHESE & NORTHERN ROME
æ Top Sights
(p183) ú Eating
(p190)
1 Museo e Galleria Borghese........................ F6
24 Al Settimo Gelo........................................... B5
2 Museo Nazionale Etrusco di Villa
25 Bar Pompi.....................................................B1
Giulia..........................................................D5
26 Caffè delle Arti ............................................ D5
27 Cinecaffè ..................................................... E6
æ Sights
(p186)
28 Il Gianfornaio................................................B1
3 Auditorium Parco della Musica.................C3
29 Metamorfosi................................................ E4
4 Bioparco....................................................... E5
30 Molto ............................................................ E3
5 Casina delle Civette................................... H6
31 Neve di Latte ............................................... B3
6 Casino dei Principi ..................................... H6
32 Pallotta..........................................................B1
7 Casino Nobile ............................................. H6
33 Pasticceria Gruè ......................................... G5
8 Catacombe di Priscilla .............................. H3
34 Serenella...................................................... F6
9 Explora – Museo dei Bambini di
Roma .........................................................C5 û Drinking & Nightlife
(p191)
Fontana delle Rane........................... (see 19)
35 Chioschetto di Ponte Milvio .......................B1
10 Foro Italico ...................................................A2
36 Piper Club.................................................... G5
11 Galleria Nazionale d'Arte Moderna e
Contemporanea.......................................D5 ý Entertainment
(p191)
12 Giardino del Lago ........................................D6
Auditorium Parco della Musica .........(see 3)
Musei di Villa Torlonia ........................ (see 7)
37 Casa del Cinema......................................... E6
Museo Archeologico........................... (see 3)
38 Cinema dei Piccoli...................................... E6
13 Museo Carlo Bilotti .....................................D6
39 Foro Italico................................................... A2
14 Museo d'Arte Contemporanea di
40 Silvano Toti Globe Theatre........................ E5
Roma (MACRO) ...................................... G6
41 Stadio Flaminio........................................... C3
15 Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI
42 Stadio Olimpico .......................................... A2
Secolo (MAXXI)........................................B3
43 Teatro Olimpico.......................................... B3
16 Piazza di Siena ............................................E6
17 Ponte Milvio .................................................B2 þ Shopping
(p192)
18 Porta Pia.......................................................G7
44 Anticaglie a Ponte Milvio ........................... B2
19 Quartiere Coppedè .....................................G5
45 Bagheera ..................................................... D3
20 Villa Ada .......................................................G3
46 Bulzoni ......................................................... E3
21 Villa Borghese .............................................E6
47 Libreria l'Argonauta ...................................G6
22 Villa Poniatowski.........................................C5
23 Villa Torlonia............................................... H6 ÿ Sleeping
(p222)
Villa Torlonia Bunker .......................... (see 7) 48 Palm Gallery Hotel...................................... H5
324
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19 Villa di Massenzio ............................ G5
18 Scuola Cesare Battisti ....................C4
17 Quartiere Garbatella .......................C4
15 Mausoleo di Romolo........................ G5
16 Museo delle Mura ............................ E2
14 Mausoleo di Cecilia Metella ............G6
Ardeatine ....................................... F5
13 Mausoleo delle Fosse
12 ex Caserma dell'Aeronautica .........B2
10 Chiesa del Domine Quo Vadis? ..... E3
11 Circo di Massenzio .......................... G5
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29 Neo Club........................................... B3
20 Andreotti .......................................... B2
Porto Fluviale ..........................(see 23)
21 Eataly ................................................ C2
30 Rashomon ........................................ B3
22 Il Giardino di Giulia e Fratelli .......... G6
(p204)
Pizza Ostiense ....................... (see 20) ý Entertainment
23 Porto Fluviale ................................... B2
31 Caffè Letterario ............................... B2
24 Qui Non se More Mai....................... G6
32 La Casa del Jazz .............................. D2
25 Trattoria Priscilla ............................. E3
33 Teatro India...................................... A3
34 XS Live .............................................. B4
(p203)
26 Doppiozeroo .................................... B3 ÿ Sleeping
(p222)
27 Goa .................................................... B4
35 Hotel Abitart .................................... B2
28 La Saponeria .................................... B4
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5 Alexis .................................................B3
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8 Catacombe di San Sebastiano ...... G5
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1 Basilica di San Paolo Fuori le
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2 Basilica di San Sebastiano ............. F5
3 Via Appia Antica ............................... E3
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Vi
32 7
Our Story
A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of
adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed
for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to
Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but
inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling
together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap.
Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London,
Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief
that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
Our Writers
Abigail Blasi
Tridente, Trevi & the Quirinale, Monti, Esquilino & San Lorenzo, Trastevere & Gianicolo, Southern Rome Abigail moved to Rome in 2003 and lived
there for three years; she got married alongside Lago Bracciano and her first
son was born in Rome. Nowadays she divides her time between Rome, Puglia
and London. She has worked on four editions of Lonely Planet’s Italy and Rome
guides, wrote the Best of Rome guide, and co-wrote the first edition of Puglia &
Basilicata. She also regularly writes on Italy for various publications, including the Independent,
the Guardian, and Lonely Planet Traveller.
Duncan Garwood
Ancient Rome, Centro Storico, Vatican City, Borgo & Prati, San Giovanni
to Testaccio, Villa Borghese & Northern Rome, Day Trips from Rome A
Brit travel writer based in the Castelli Romani hills just outside Rome, Duncan
moved to the Italian capital just in time to see the new millennium in at the
Colosseum. He has since clocked up endless kilometres walking around his
adopted hometown and exploring the far-flung reaches of the surrounding
Lazio region. He has worked on the past six editions of this book as well as p
revious editions of
the Rome Pocket guide and a whole host of LP Italy publications. He has also written on Italy for
newspapers and magazines.
Read more about Duncan at:
http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/duncangarwood
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