Rassegna stampa_Falesco_2012

Transcript

RASSEGNA STAMPA 2012
2011 Falesco, Vitiano Rosato “Made from merlot, cabernet sauvignon, sangiovese and aleatico grapes. Brilliant pink color with notes of strawberry, cranberry and rose garden, and a hint of tangy grapefruit on the palate. A delicious, bold rose that’s perfect or summer grilling. Try with grilled vegetables, salmon, mussels.” 1
Falesco – Vitiano Rosso 2010
Weintipps von Michael Liebert, 4 days ago
Bewertung und Weininfos: Bewertung: 96 Punkte (Preis-Genuss) – Preis: 6 – 8 € – Weingut/Wein:
****/5 Weintypus: Dunkle Beeren, Tabak, Zedernholz, feines Leder, trocken, rot Region:
Umbrien/Italien – Rebsorte: 33% Merlot, 33% Cabernet, 34% Sangiovese Vit...
Ein neuer Wein oder nur eine neue Optik? Ich hab den Eindruck, die neue Optik war Ansporn für
die Mannschaft auch beim Inhalt mal wieder so richtig Gas zu geben. Es ist weiterhin ein Cuvee aus
Sangiovese, Merlot und Cabernet-Sauvignon, die Trauben kommen weiterhin aus dem umbrischen
Teil des Weingutes und doch hab ich den Eindruck, der Wein hat mehr Struktur und gibt sich am
Gaumen deutlich geschmeidiger und runder.
Im Bouquet ein schönes Spiel aus dunklen Beeren, Tabak, Zedernholz und der Duft einer
nagelneuen Handtasche aus feinstem Leder. Am Gaumen eine schöne Frucht, eingebettet in eine
straffe und doch geschmeidige Struktur. Er wirkt sehr harmonisch und ausgewogen im besten Sinne
des Wortes. Ein sanfter, nicht zu schwerer Rotwein, den man sowohl als Solist, als auch als
vielseitigen Essensbegleiter einsetzen kann.
Optimaler Genuss: jetzt – 2015
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Falesco
The winery is one of the biggest movers Falesco Italy and what is being bottled, stands for a new
wine culture in the region. The plant belongs to the brothers Riccardo and Renzo Cotarella and is
Montefiascone, on the shores of Lake Bolsena. The brothers are no strangers to the Italian wine
scene: Riccardo, the elder, is a brilliant winemaker and wine consultant and advises dozens of
wineries in Central and Southern Italy.
Renzo, the younger of the brothers is Cotarella "wine makers" and technical director for Antinori
and successor to the legendary Giacomo Tachis. Together they stand behind the class wines of
Azienda Falesco. The white wines of Falesco - Est! Est! Est! - Are presented with a very
reintönigen fruitiness. Really become known for its Falesco but not white wines, but because of the
Reds, and especially because of the controversy Vitiano good and the award-winning, single
varietal Merlot's Montiano.
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2007er Falesco Vitiano Rosso IGT
Red wine/ Italy - Lazio /Falesco
Belongs to the undisputed best Italian wines in its price class and thrilled with diverse Bouquet,
Juicy fruit, good Body and sophisticated structure.
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GQ.com October 2011 (287,129 Unique Visitors Per Month) In “19 Bottles of Merlot to Try Now,” Alan Richman recommends: FALESCO Merlot Umbria 2009 “Fantastic for the price. Very dark—one taster said it should have been the communal wine at the Hagia Sophia in 1500. Not particularly modern, a virtue. Well-‐balanced, smooth, and nicely finessed.” The Wine Guide 2012 (paperback, 360 pages) by the editors of Food & Wine Magazine and Mary G. Burnham recommends the following from Italy, Portugal & Austria: FALESCO Winemaker Riccardo Cotarella consults for wineries around the world. But it’s at his Umbrian estate, Falesco, that his passion for experimenting becomes clear: Cotarella and brother Renzo make Montiano, one of Italy’s finest Merlots, as well as a compelling collection of wines based on French and obscure native varieties sourced from Umbria and neighboring Lazio. Montiano “The vineyards outside Rome are best known for whites, but this Merlot proves they can yield lush, plummy reds too.” Nuova asta
a Hong Kong
L’Italia del vino guarda a Est,
protagonista oggi della più
grande asta di vino italiano
d’Asia, nuova El Dorado per i
vini del mondo, ad Hong
Kong, capitale mondiale degli
incanti, con le etichette top di
griffe come Antinori, Allegrini,
Masi, San Leonardo, Falesco,
Gaja, Marchesi di Barolo, Casanova
di Neri, Castello Banfi,
Frescobaldi, Biondi Santi, Tenuta
dell’Ornellaia e Marchesi
Incisa della Rocchetta, per citarne
alcune, battute dalla casa
d’aste italiana Gelardini &
Romani (grwineauction.com),
con base di oltre 500.000 euro 5
Est Est Est di Montefiascone 2010 - Falesco
Est Est Est di Montefiascone 2010 - Falesco
Product Code: 248872 $ 13.99
This is a lovely white wine from the pretty little village of Montefiascone in the Lazio region of
Italy.
Unusual name has a fun story attached to it.
In the 12th Century a German Bishop named Johann Fugger was to go to Rome for the coronation of
Henry V. in order to drink well on his journey he sent out his majordomo to scout out the towns on
the way where he could eat and drink well. His job was to mark Est!(short for vinum est bonum) on
the door of the inn’s where the wine was good.
When he arrived at Montefiascone the majordomo so like the wine that he marked Est! Est! Est!
Apparently the corpulent bishop agreed with him because when he arrived in the town he like the
wine so much he cancelled his trip and stayed in Montefiascone until his death!!
Anyway, this is a fun little white wine made from Trebbiano and Malvasia.
Light, crisp and lively with lemony flavors and juicy acidity.
Get some fresh oysters, whip up a crisp salad and get stuck in with a tumbler of this wine.
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SELEZIONE DI SORBETTI Raspberry, lemon or
mango/ passion fruit PAIRED WITH: FALESCO
POMELE ALEATICO, 2010, LAZIO, 500 ML Fresh
berry and plum aromas, with a zesty, perfectly
balanced acidity. Lively and delicious.
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BOMBOLONI Amaretti scented doughnuts
with 3 sauces PAIRED WITH: FALESCO
POMELE ALEATICO, 2010, LAZIO, 500
ML Fresh berry and plum aromas, with a
zesty, perfectly balanced acidity. Lively
and delicious.
TORTA ALLA RICOTTA Mascarpone &
ricotta Italian style cheese cake, pistachio
gelato, candied fruit PAIRED WITH:
FALESCO POMELE ALEATICO, 2010,
LAZIO, 500 ML Fresh berry and plum
aromas, with a zesty, perfectly balanced
acidity. Lively and delicious.
CIOCCOLATISSIMO Soft center
chocolate cake, kumquat marmalade
& toasted almonds PAIRED WITH:
FALESCO POMELE ALEATICO,
2010, LAZIO, 500 ML Fresh berry
and plum aromas, with a zesty,
perfectly balanced acidity. Lively and
delicious.
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Jody Jackman Tastes VALDIPIATTA,
FALESCO & CHATEAU JULIEN, CA.
This will be great to get Jody Jackman back to taste with us her excellent Italian wines :
VALDIPIATTA ( Tuscany ), FALESCO ( Umbria ) and CHATEAU JULIEN, CA. Merlot and
Chardonnay. No charge, join us. Always happy to see you. Cheers, TONY
Date:
Fri, 03/30/2012 - 5:00pm - 8:00pm
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A Wonderful Time at Brenner's on the Bayou's
Wine Revolution
By Carla Soriano Tue., Apr. 3 2012 at 2:00 PM
Brenner's on the Bayou's Wine Revolution offered much more than just wine
This past weekend, beautiful Houstonians donning flats and bright resort-casual attire, per the
event's invitation, skipped out on their Saturday country club visits and spa days in favor of
Brenner's on the Bayou's third annual Wine Revolution. Set in tents under the bright sun, amidst
Brenner's hilly greenery, the flawlessly executed festival featured wonderful wines, bursting-withflavor hors d'oeuvres, and excellent entertainment.
The wine festival featured multiple tents that offered side-by-side tastings of same-varietal wines
produced in the Americas and Europe. The varietals in attendance included Pinot Grigio,
Chardonnay, Moscato, Riesling, Sangiovese, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot and
Zinfandel. In keeping with the event's theme of "revolution," the idea was for guests to decide
whether the Americas or Europe won in the "battle" to produce the best wines.
It was difficult to discern which region came out as the overall victor in the "revolution." There
were some obvious winners, as well as some unexpected results in each wine category. For
instance, the gripping Catena Zapata Malbec, produced in Argentina, blew its counterpart, Georges
Vigouroux Pigmentum Malbec, produced in France, right out of the water. The same could be said
for the bright and velvety Chimney Rock Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley. It trumped the
spicy Santa Margherita Cabernet from Italy. These results were expected.
On the other hand, the nicely layered, tannin-heavy Falesco Merlot, IGT from Italy unexpectedly
beat out an American Merlot that was intensely bitter. And perhaps most surprising of all, the
cheap-tasting Italian Di Majo Norante Sangiovese Terre degli Osci, IGT lost its battle against an
American Sangiovese produced in the Napa Valley.
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While the wine tasting and comparison was quite enjoyable, it was just the tip of the iceberg. Five
strategically placed food stations served up bites of food that looked and tasted so good, it's
probable that many people had to resist strong urges to grab 15 of each item. Among the food
selection: delicate slices of fine charcuterie and cheese atop crusty bread that made for excellent
accompaniment for the wines, flat bread with roasted seasonal vegetables, large sea scallops and
shrimp that went hand in hand with the white wine selections, and Brenner's signature beer can
chicken. The chicken, presented inside sundried tomato cones with cheese, beans, and roasted corn,
would have taken the "best of show" prize had there been one.
Speaking of award-winning, the acclaimed Ezra Charles Band provided the musical entertainment
for the afternoon. Their blues piano and big-band horns created a swanky ambiance, fit for the
occasion.
All of this happened outdoors, where, apart from wine- and food-tasting tents, tables and colorful
quilts on the green grass served as lounging grounds for event-goers. Meanwhile, inside Brenner's,
those guests in possession of VIP passes enjoyed stations of hors d'oevueres along with unlimited
pours of the award-winning wines of Nickel and Nickel and Far Niente. Most VIP guests enjoyed
their stellar wines on Brenner's comfy couches and tables, while relishing the air conditioning.
Others, however, spent their precious time deliberating why Brenner's had dared to switch from
passed to stationed hors d'oeuvres, and how unfathomable it was that only glasses, rather than
bottles of water, were available.
The majority of the festival attendees were able to appreciate the world-class customer service,
which reminded guests at all times that this was an exclusive event not be mistaken for a public
gathering. Beautiful ladies rinsed out glassware prior to pouring each wine, with beaming smiles
despite the heat. Fast-moving attendants replaced food stations well before food had run out. When
a bit of congestion began to occur at a tent, event workers quickly made their way to the area to
lend a hand so as to ensure that wait times of more than two minutes were nonexistent.
Even the glassware at the event deserved attention. Guests received their very own Reidel glass,
engraved with the name of the event. The value of this item alone nearly justified the $65 entry fee.
Brenner's deserves a pat on the back for smooth logistics, perfect ambiance, a praise-worthy wine
selection, and delicious noms. They put on a fantastic show and evidently sorted out the kinks of the
previous years. With the utter success of this year's event, it might be a good idea to be first in line
when next year's Wine Revolution tickets go on sale, as they will most definitely sell out, quickly.
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Spaniard, 2 Italians make good company
By Victoria and Greg Grabner
Posted March 24, 2012 at 3 p.m.
It's not often that we leave America's shores and head for Europe.
So when a Spanish bottle of garnacha and two Italian bottles of Sangiovese allow us to embrace the
Old World without stepping foot outside of the Midwest, it's time to celebrate. As in: Slide a slice
of pizza onto your plate, pour a glass of wine, and sit back as you take in three pairings that seem to
go together better than most.
Take the night in January when we'd grabbed two smaller Boboli crusts, a handful of spicy dried
Italian meats, cheese and mushrooms and baked them until they became crisp delicacies. That's
when the 2007 Falesco Sangiovese from Umbria, Italy, entered the scene.
We both found this wine was easy to like. It was light, with minor tannins and acidity, not much of
a nose, and flavors of cherry. It went well with Greg's pizza.
According to the Food and Wine Books 2009 Wine Guide, Sangiovese is best paired with tomatobased sauces as well as pizza, full-flavored salami and other dry-cured sausages. This wine is under
$20.
Sangiovese happens to be the principal variety used to create Chianti. The 2007 Ruffino Riserva
Ducale Chianti Classico is so good we're mentioning it for a second time, since other Chianti we've
had haven't been as smooth as this particular Tuscan. With 13.5 percent alcohol, it is a blend of at
least 80 percent Sangiovese, with cabernet sauvignon and merlot, according to Ruffino's website.
We thought it was smooth, light and fruity, and it was very easy to drink. Under $20.
Now onto Spain. And if you've never had a garnacha, and you've wondered if it would be possible
to experience a wine that's both smooth and peppery, all you have to do is open the 2008 Las Rocas.
This 14.1 percent alcohol specimen was smooth enough to round out the grease in the pizza, and it
added a bit of black pepper flavor to the meal.
It also had a cherry and woody nose and is a good value wine.
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APPELLATION2B
Vinicola Falesco Montiano 2007 Lazio IGT by appellation2tb Falesco- Montiano 2007 Lazio IGT 14%
The wine has a dark red color becoming darker towards the center.
Blockbuster candied red currant and plum with the hint of anise jump out
of the nose. The age is apparent in a sea of herby complexity being
underlined by a soft cedar scent. Soft and round on the palate, the oak
plays a much larger part of the taste structure. Going down it seems to
become weak and flat and leaves a residue of vanilla oak on the finish.
This seems to want to be a mixture between a Super Tuscan and a
Australian Shiraz and falls just before the finish line.
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Brenner's on the Bayou's 2012 Wine Fest
Wine aficionados will sample more than 24 varietals along with food pairings and enjoy live
entertainment by the Ezra Charles Band from 3 to 6 p.m. VIP tickets include a private exclusive
tasting of Nickel & Nickel and Far Niente.
Participating North and South American wineries include: Bodega Catena Zapata Malbec Lugan de
Cayo, Argentina; Sanford Chardonnay, Santa Barbara; Terlato Family Cellars Pinot Grigio, Russian
River Valley; Pellar Riesling, Canada; Terrenoble “Classic” Sauvignon Blanc, Central Valley,
Chile; Leyda Pinot Noir, Cental Valley, Chile; Markham Cellar 1879, Napa Valley; Seven
Daughters Moscato, California; Chimney Rock Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley; The Federalist,
Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley; and Markham Cellar 1879, Napa Valley.
Participating European wineries include: Georges Vignouroux, Pigmentum, Malbec, Cahors,
France; Tiefenbrunner Chardonnay, DOC, Alto Adige, Italy; Zenato Pinot Grigio delle Venezie,
IGT Veneto, Italy; Clean Slate Riesling, Mosel, Germany; Chanson Pinot Noir, Burgundy,
France; Chateau de Fontaine-Audon, Sancerre, Sancerre France; Maculan Brentino
(Cabernet/Merlot)IGT, Veneto, Italy; Botromagno Primitivo, (original Zinfandel) IGT Puglia,
Italy; Di Majo Norante Sangiovese Terre degli Osci, IGT, Molise; Falesco Merlot, IGT, Umbria,
Italy; Santa Margherita Cabernet, Trentino Alto Adige, Italy; and Stella Moscato D' Alessandria
IGT, Sicilia, Italy.
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Riccardo Cotarella nominato Ambasciatore
Emerito delle Città del Vino
Il 10 marzo a Castel Viscardo (Terni) la cerimonia di consegna e la
presentazione del libro "Dietro la bottiglia" dove l'autore Nino
D'Antonio traccia un profilo del famoso enologo
Punta di diamante dell’enologia italiana nel mondo, a Riccardo Cotarella sarà conferita dall’Associazione
Città del Vino la nomina ad Ambasciatore Emerito. La cerimonia avrà luogo, domani sabato 10 marzo,
presso la Sala Consiliare del Comune di Castel Viscardo (Terni), dove è nato. E’ prevista la presenza delle
maggiori autorità della Provincia, un saluto del sindaco e un breve intervento di Paolo Benvenuti,
direttore dell’Associazione.
E’ un riconoscimento alla lunga e preziosa attività di Cotarella in difesa della qualità dei nostri vini, ma
anche – e soprattutto – nella creazione di nuovi uvaggi, che hanno allargato i confini del mercato.
L’elenco dei “vini d’autore” da lui firmati ci porterebbe assai lontano, dall’Argentina alla California, da
Israele alla Georgia, fino alla Francia. Una tappa, quest’ultima, che ci dà la dimensione di quale autorità e
prestigio goda il nostro enologo. Questo a non considerare l’ampio ventaglio delle cantine italiane, dal
Friuli alla Sicilia.
Professore all’Università della Tuscia, un patrimonio di consulenze, Cotarella è entrato a pieno diritto nella
ristretta rosa dei venti guru dell’enologia, presenti nel libro “Dietro la bottiglia” di Nino D’Antonio, e nel
quale figurano nomi come Tachis e Lanati.
L’occasione è tra l’altro propizia per la presentazione in territorio umbro del libro, che ospita l’ampio
profilo di Riccardo Cotarella, dagli anni della sua formazione a quelli della ricerca. Senza escludere un
ritratto dell’uomo, con le sue credenze e i suoi interessi, fino alla passione per i cavalli.
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Snooth, March 14, 2012 (182,817 Unique Visitors per Month) FALESCO Sangiovese Umbria IGT 2010 — 86 points “Tight on the nose with some earthy strawberry fruit and gentle woodsy and smoky top notes. This is really quite smooth on entry, though the minor tannins and integrated acidity help the wine pop on the mid-‐
palate. There fruit shows fine depth, if in a slightly matte style, with a bit of a tea like, extracted feel. A bit rough and rich at the same time. The finish shows good intensity of black cherry skin fruit.” Falesco Pomele 2010 500ml
Wine Description
With the help of his students from the University of Viterbo, renowned winemaker Riccardo
Cotarella discovered that Aleatico, a red grape variety introduced to Italy from Greece, thrives in
the volcanic soil found in the Lake Bolsena region in northern Latium. Very low yields and a
special cold maceration technique are used to preserve and intensify the extraordinary and unique
aromas of Aleatico.
Tasting Notes
Pomele is the ultimate red dessert wine. Bright ruby-red in color, this sweet red wine is brimming
with fresh berry and plum aromas, with a zesty, perfectly balanced acidity to keep its youthful
profile lively and delicious. Best served with fruit desserts, tarts, light pastries, or triple-creme brie
cheese.
-From the producer
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after dinner sneeze
another reason to be suspicious of wine “perfection”
t says: Ok – so from the last post, you know that I sought out some wine from the PLCB based on
a pretty strongly-worded review. Well, this past Friday, I put
that wine to the test:
what a Snooki-shaped bottle! (before the weight loss)
What I didn’t mention previously about my purchase is that
the bottle is a pretty silly shape. It’s short and stout. It won’t
fit in any wine cellar/refrigerator that I’ve seen, including the
one that I own. And it’s not particularly pretty when lying
down next to other bottles. Actually, it’s not pretty in any
orientation. All in all, pretty silly if you ask me – but what do
I know?
So I got to decanting the wine for a half hour or so and
eventually poured it into the glass. I reviewed The Wine
School’s note:
“Luxurious, like a velvet cushion of dark sweet fruit. The
only fault is its perfection –round, sexy, slick perfection– which takes away some of the pleasure of
drinking a Umbrian wine.”
I braced for “perfection”.
I didn’t find it …
2009 Falesco Tellus (Umbria, Italy, $13.99 at PLCB). Sweet-smelling dark fruits on the nose, like
blackberries. On the palate, there’s some initial pleasant fruit but a surprising lack of the spice or
pepper that I normally think of when I think “shiraz” (I guess I’m used to Australian Shirazes).
There’s a medium body. The finish is kind of short – shorter than I’d expect from a shiraz.
However, it’s also silky-smooth, with only trace tannic bite and only a tidbit of alcoholic heat. It’s
a dry wine, but it goes down really easily. As far as flavors are concerned, it’s a little onedimensional. a’s review was similar to mine: “A ‘berry-e’ nose, good fruit up front, not much on the
back. Certainly NOT perfection, unless ‘perfect’ means ‘enjoyable’.”
In my mind, the Tellus lost in a head-to-head against a Cali Cab (PLCB Product Code: 000514628)
that I had also pulled out that night – one that I had purchased for $10 in NJ. a disagreed, though,
feeling that the Tellus was more interesting of a wine with a fuller, more inviting body. I felt the
opposite. Knowing that a can handle some criticism, I told him he was “wrong”. He informed me I
was misinformed and requested that I re-taste the Tellus to ensure we were tasting the same wine. I
did. Nope – it was the same Tellus, so I wasn’t budging. I suspect it’s because he has higher
expectations from a California Cabernet Sauvignon than an Italian Shiraz. Despite not agreeing
after a few more seconds of debate, it didn’t come to fisticuffs, as we agreed that no matter which
way we sliced it, this wine is definitely not “perfect” in any aspect: bottle shape, nose, flavor, finish,
etc. In summary: It’s smooth and pleasant and it won’t disappoint anyone at a party … well …
unless they’re expecting “perfection” 20
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Vivendo Restaurant, Rome
Via Vittorio E. Orlando, 3 · Rome 00185 ·
Phone: +39 (0)6 4709 2736 ·
Email: [email protected]
A Di..Vino Affair
An exclusive partnership with Antinori Wines to create an epicurean experience inspired by
traditional and bespoke dishes.
Mediterranean langoustines in fennel and pink grain marinade with eggplant parmigiana
accompanied by salad of fresh greens, bottarga, lemongrass emulsion
Metodo Classico Falesco Rose'
Caramelized pear & cacio cheese filled tortelli served in a Parma ham, toasted pine nut pink pepper
sauce
Tellus Syrah Lazio
Mustard crusted lamb, rosemary potato pancakes, served with Roman artichokes in a Cesanese
reduction
Montiano Lazio
Essence of Italian Tradition: Skewered sweet cream fritters, chocolate salami, apple soufflé and
pistachio sauce
Passiro' Lazio IGT
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Randys World Wine & Food Advisory from the Melting Pot of the Pacific The Wine Wizard of Umbria
© Randal Caparoso
How good a winemaker is Riccardo Cotarella? So good, that on
top of his own vineyard and winery known as Falesco and
located in Italy's Umbria and Lazio regions, there are 53 other
wineries employing him as their consulting winemaker. Most of
them are also in the center of Italy, but six of them are located in
France; including two chateaux in the famous region of
Bordeaux.
Why so many? Because he can. His skills are in demand because virtually all his wines - selling for
as little as $7 and as much as a $75 -- share the common qualities of great aromatic intensity,
flattering textures, and more layers of flavor than previously thought possible. And make no
mistake - traveling winemaker consultants do not carry around broomsticks and magic wands. They
do what they do by applying a sensitivity to grape growing, and a sure handed feel for bringing out
the best out of these grapes through a stickler's winemaking principles.
In every Italian winery I recently passed where Riccardo has left his mark, I have heard his name
spoken with a reverence reserved for Socrates, Confucious and Gotama. He quietly prods and
challenges his clients to attend to every detailed step of the winemaking process, and they respond
by ascending to heights that amaze even themselves. No wonder, as Italy's Gambero Rosso
magazine puts it, he practically qualifies for "sainthood."
So what exactly is it that Cotarella has done for Italian wines? In the latest Gambero Rosso,
Cotarella says that he aims for wines that are "very rich and soft... finer and more drinkable." When
he began to actively consult a little less than ten years ago, he sought to "break loose from the thin
wines that were the norm," striving for an almost exaggerated roundness and drinkability.
The significance of this is that most wines from Italy - which are not made by Riccardo Cotarella are still thought of as light and spare. Typical Italian whites verge on wateriness, and typical Italian
reds bear a remarkable resemblance to shoe leather. The experts, of course, still tell us that this is
the "style" of Italy, and that it's this very thinness, or sharp, astringent leatheriness, which make
Italian wines taste so wonderful with food.
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Well, you can fool a lot of people all the time, but not Riccardo Cotarella. If anything, his genius is
that he has convinced both Italian winemakers and drinkers of Italian wine that there is absolutely
nothing wrong with, say, an Italian white wine made from Grechetto that has more of the solid,
crisp, minerally and melony taste of the Grechetto grape than that of insipid, lemony water. That it's
okay for Italy's Sangiovese based reds to have the lush, red cherry and tea flavor of the freshly
crushed Sangiovese grape, and for Italian grown Merlots to have the juicy rich, soft flavor of the
Merlot grape. To heck with shoe leather. Who wants to drink that with food?
Now for the best part: It is very possible to find Cotarella crafted wines in many retail stores and
restaurants in the U.S. This revolutionary (for Italy) style is, after all, very much in tune with the
American palate for soft, fruit driven wine. The difference being, this softness is embellished by
distinctions reflecting the Italian origins of Cotarella's material, unlike the indefinable, canned
fruitiness of so many New World wines. Here is an introduction:
Falesco, Grechetto 1999 ($13-$16) - The first thing to remember about white wines made from the
Grechetto grape is that they are not Chardonnays - not fat, not oaky or overripe. They are, however,
cool, crisp, and lively; qualities to which Cotarella adds nuances of sweet pear, licorice, and slivers
of peach in his Falesco bottling. There is almost an Asian sense of harmony and restraint, with that
quiet intensity. A wine, in fact, which many American wine critics could never "get"; enslaved, as
they are, by the idea that big is better, and loud carries the big stick - which it most certainly never
does the context of the lighter, more refreshing foods many of us are eating today.
Falesco, "Vitiano" 2000 ($10-$13) - This is the quintessential Cotarella red; as friendly in price as it
is in taste. Unbelievably so. The Vitiano is a three-way blend of Umbria grown Sangiovese, Merlot
and Cabernet Sauvignon. The Sangiovese contributes delicately sweet, red berry aromas with
scrubby, anise-like qualities; the Cabernet, a firm grip and herby, minty bottom note; and the
Merlot, a plump, round, juicy flavor in the middle. Rarely will you find so many layers in a wine so
invitingly gentle.
Falesco, Umbria Merlot 1999 ($11-$14) - The Umbrian style of Merlot, as defined by Cotarella, is
dense and dark, coating the glass and then the mouth, yet gloriously soft, flowing, cohesive. The
French oak quality - smoky, vanillin, elegant -- is not ungenerous, but there is black cherry fruit
aplenty, spilling out over a tautly lashed ring of tannin. Such a deal!
Galli & Brocatelli, Sagrantino 1997 ($19-$24) - This winery, in the Montefalco township of
Umbria, is one of Cotarella's most recent projects, and it specializes in the rare and unusually small
berried varietal called Sagrantino. Lovers of thick, bulging, muscular reds could make a fetish out
of this wine, with its gooey rich aroma evincing black licorice and berries, and earth-toned nuances
that transition from truffle to chocolate. On the palate, a fistful of flavors; luscious fruit strapped
down with tannin, finishing with smoky, roasted coffee bean-like intensities.
Sportoletti, "Villa Fidelia Rosso" 1999 ($25-$30) - It's almost ashamed that the American press has
recently "discovered" this red wine -- made by the Sportoletti family from their chalky, stony
hillside plantings outside of Assisi - which has turned it into a rare experience in more ways than
one. A blend of mostly Merlot (70%), Cabernet Sauvignon (20%) and Cabernet Franc, this is a wine
that ebbs and flows on the palate with meaty, toothsome, tannin lined flavors that are also steeped
with a lush, layered, almost sweet, cassis-like intensity wrapped in vanilla beans. A literal river of
sleek, Italianate red wine flavors.
La Carraia, "Fobiano" 1998 ($35-$40) - What a name, what a red wine; grown within the township
of Orvieto, once known only for its mild and friendly white wine (called Orvieto). During the past
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ten years, Cotarella has turned La Carraia into a "serious" Merlot (of which the Fobiano is 70%) and
Cabernet Sauvignon estate, on the par with the best of Bordeaux and Napa Valley; but this doesn't
keep it from being dreamily soft and luxurious, draping itself across the palate with thick, velvety
folds of black fruit and sweet oak. A wine with as much heart as strength.
Falesco, "Montiano" 1998 ($40-$45) - From Cotarella's oldest estate plantings in the hilly Lazio
region, on the way from Rome to Italy, this is his piece de resistance: 100% Merlot - meaning, a
pure, unbridled, palate ringing juiciness. Everything is here - the enthralling red and black fruit
aromas, the soft yet meaty density, tannic muscle overlain with silky flesh, a proud elegance keeled
by unabashed sensuality. Almost a state of mind rather than simply a red wine made indubitably for
drinking!
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Il Vino Nobile
Exploring the Glory of Italian Wine from Across the Pond…
Falesco Tellus Syrah Lazio IGT (2009)
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Or... Is there an Italian Daube to Pair this with?
For a while now, Italy’s vintners have been embracing “international”
varietals, and – to be perfectly honest – it’s not a trend I particularly care for.
Though there is no doubt Super Tuscans have generated quite a bit of buzz,
they are the main source of my consternation. It’s not that there is anything
wrong with Super Tuscans – some of them are very good, but for me the ones
that only contain Bordeaux varietals have me wondering “what’s the point?”
Why not just drink a Bordeaux? Of course there are some that feature
Sangiovese alongside the French grapes, which I find more appealing, but
even then tend to prefer wines that focus on and feature natively (or longtime)
Italian varietals more prominently.
As an Italian-American cook, who was raised eating and cooking Italian food,
I guess I gravitated towards the “if it grows together it goes together”
mentality when I started to get into wine. Varietals like Sangiovese, Barbera,
Nebbiolo, Aglianico and all the other Italians are great examples of this, as
they often pair wonderfully with food indigenous to the region where they
thrive. Cabernet and Merlot, on the other hand, don’t often come to mind
when pairing with Italian cuisine.
All that said, I freaking love Syrah. It smells like bacon! So, when I saw that Italy was starting to
bring in Syrah in the southern areas, I was intrigued, despite my general distaste for internationals
on Italian soil. This Falesco, it turns out, is the first one I’ve had. Though it is certainly done in an
international style, and lacks much “Italian-ness”, it was a rather enjoyable wine and a great deal at
$14. I paired it with Pork Tenderloin and Romesco sauce, which, if you are keeping score, is not
Italian cuisine. Mediterranean maybe.
By the way, for some reason Pennsylvania is calling this a “red blend”, even though it is 100%
Syrah.
Also, weird bottle, huh?
Tasting Notes:
Decanted about an hour. Nose features smoky bacon plus something vegetal – broccoli? Palate
offers ripe, dark fruits like cherries and blackberries. Decent amount of vanilla on the finish, which
is a little harsh. At times, it is almost like licking the inside of the oak barrel. (Almost – not quite.) I
only bought one of these, but it’d be interesting to see if the oak and chalky tannins would integrate
better in a year or two. At $14, I’ll probably pick up a few more if I see it again (though I’m not
going to go out of my way).
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After dinner sneeze
another reason to hate the PLCB
t says: There are many reasons why people dislike or even detest the PLCB. Today, I will share
my latest grievance with them. Having been on the email list for The Wine School, I received their
March newsletter containing reviews of some bottles that can be found in PA Wine and Spirits
Shoppes. One particular wine stood out (I hope they don’t mind that I reproduce it here):
2009 Falesco Tellus (Umbria, Italy, $13.99 at PLCB). Luxurious, like a velvet cushion of dark
sweet fruit. The only fault is its perfection –round, sexy, slick perfection– which takes away some
of the pleasure of drinking a Umbrian wine.
And trust me – these guys at The Wine School have no incentive to promote PA wine sales – they
just really like wine! Furthermore, the Wine Advocate had a glowing review as well (check the
PLCB link above). So I logged onto the PLCB website, searched for the bottle, and found that a
some-what local store in center city. So I walked on down to 12th and Chestnut, skipping along,
ever-so-excited by my impending purchase. I mean, come on: “round, sexy, slick perfection” –
who could resist?.
I arrived and couldn’t find the bottle on my own. No big deal – they only had 2 bottles left, so it
was going to be hard. I approached a person stocking shelves and asked them for help. They had
no idea what I was talking about, which was to be expected, so they looked it up on the slowerthan-molasses computer. “We’re supposed to have 2 of these.” I was not surprised. “You couldn’t
find ‘em?” No – of course I found ‘em – I was just testing him because I have nothing better to do
on a Wednesday. Duh! But I was nice and politely responded, “nah – I’ll check the Italian section
again.” He then went back into the storeroom to “ask the wine guy”. A few minutes passed. He
came out and said, “we don’t got ‘em”. None? “Nope.” And then he walked away. The
mysterious “wine guy” didn’t come out and say anything. No “oops”. No “let me help you find
something else”. Nothing.
Thanks PLCB. I love you, too.
NOT.
PS I just went to the PLCB on 5th street and they had 7 or so bottles – from which I selected two. I
hope they’re not compromised! (The corks seem to be riding a little high.) If so, it’d be
anotherreason I’d hate the PLCB …
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An Eye for Wine
Falesco Tellus Syrah 2009
February 19, 2012 by Bob Arffa | 0 comments
Falesco Tellus Syrah 2009
Lazio, Italy
PLCB Code# 32423
The 2009 Syrah Tellus is another new offering from Falesco. It boasts considerable
opulence in its super-ripe dark fruit. Notes of inner sweetness and perfume follow,
leading to the elegant, polished finish. It will be interesting to see where this wine goes
over the next few years. Cotarella aged the Tellus in 2nd year oak barrels, 70% French,
30% American. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019.-AG
Brothers Renzo and Riccardo Cotarella make a wide range of wines at Falesco, their
family-owned winery on the Umbria/Lazio border. As always, readers will find a
number of great values in this lineup. The range includes three additions that have
been in the works for the last few years; the Sagrantino, Syrah Tellus and Assisi
Rosso, the wine I am personally the most excited about.
91 Points Wine Advocate June 2011
Rubino concentrato e vivo. Impatto olfattivo un po’ alcolico, poi mora, ciliegia e terra bagnata,
funghi e pout pourri, nocciola tostata e timo, ratafia e liquirizia. Dopo un po’ escono fuori
importanti note ematiche e vegetali. In bocca ha buon equilibrio. Alcolico, appena tannico, leggera
nota amara. Discreta persistenza. Finale a base di alcool, liquirizia e confettura di ciliegie. Buon
prodotto, senza mire esagerate ma corretto e di bella presenza.
Ruby concentrated and lively. Olfactory impact a little alcoholic, then blackberry, cherry and damp
earth, mushrooms and potpourri, toasted hazelnuts and thyme, ? and licorice. After a short time
important blood and vegetal notes emerge. In the mouth it has good balance. Alcoholic, fresh
tannins, light bitter note. Respectable persistence. The finish has a base of alcohol, licorice and
cherry jam. Well produced, without over-reaching, but proper and making a good impression.
(approx. translation)
Simona Venditti Sommelier diary
Nice nose of blackberry with mild earthiness. Ripe blackberry and blueberry with a little licorice.
Fairly well balanced, but a little tannic and alcoholic on the finish. 100% Syrah. Aged in oak for 5
months. A good value. Would benefit from a little aeration or aging.
90 Points Bob’s Bulletin
!
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Yesterday at 12:00 AM
Appel on Wine: Italian guide will lead you to greatness,
winewise
By Joe Appel
Where does greatness come from? Is it ordained from on high? Is it instantly recognizable? Can it arrive unexpectedly?
Is it developed by consensus? Can it be described? Can it live underground? If it falls in the forest and you're not there to
hear it, whose job is it to go get you and make some more of it tumble so you'll listen?
Greatness was on my mind last week as I gratefully strolled/staggered the aisles of the Gambero Rosso Tre Biccheri
World Tour show in New York City, tasting Italian wines that have garnered the top rating from the most influential wine
guide in Italy.
Gambero Rosso, literally translated as "red prawn," is a food and wine journal in Italy that 25 years ago began publishing
an annual guide to Italian wine, "Vini d'Italia," in conjunction with some of the creators of what would become Slow Food.
Each year, after a rigorous selection process involving multiple stages of blind tastings by authoritative Italian wine
experts, around 400 wines are given the top award – "tre biccheri" or "three glasses" – in the guide.
For 2012, the total number of Tre Biccheri winners was 375, down from 402 in 2011. Whether the decrease is due to
more selectivity among the judges or a worse year, I like that there's no quota. There are certain standards, and of the
roughly 20,000 (!) wines that come before the different sets of judges (more than 70 altogether) leading up to eventual
selection or rejection, each is either good enough to keep going in the competition or isn't.
I'm on record for generally disdaining the very notion of rating and judging wines, both because that activity ignores
context (food, application, drinkers' preferences, personalities and moods, time of year or time of day) and because
there's usually an absurd pretense of objectivity.
But at least with Tre Biccheri, there are many independent, well-regarded judges involved, bringing multiple perspectives.
When you have a lot of passionate and knowledgeable people paying close attention to something and arguing about it
over weeks and months, their collective decisions are at the very least worth paying attention to.
At this level – most of the winners retail for more than $25, many for much more – it would be inexcusable for a wine to
be incorrect or even flawed. As far as I could tell, none was. I did come across many wines I didn't personally enjoy, but I
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encountered none that was bland, none without something important to say. (The ones I didn't like were the ones without
something unique to say, which is different.)
I've had a lot of great experiences with Italian wines that haven't received Tre Biccheri, and probably never will. Many of
these have occurred because I wasn't expecting anything in particular.
The first time I tasted a Cesanese from the Lazio region, for instance, was revelatory: How had I never heard of this
miraculous grape? I'm not sure whether the Corte dei Papi Cesanese del Piglio Colle Ticchio ($18, Pine State) is "great,"
but my experience with the wine undeniably was. (Maybe the great comes more readily when one prohibits a concept of
greatness from playing enemy to the cherishing of the good.)
So, that's a problem with Tre Biccheri: All the wines come pre-recommended, and one simply cannot help but be
swayed. One's appreciation of the wine necessarily includes an internal argument with the Gambero Rosso process, and
this complicates one's ability to keep one's independent wits.
Still, if you're looking to expand what you know about wine or even just what you're willing to taste, you could do far
worse than spend a few months exploring wines that bear the Tre Biccheri imprimatur. You'll learn that the world is large,
and that Italy may be even larger.
And lucky for you, there's a relatively inexpensive way to do this: Taste "everyday"-priced wines from winemakers whose
more ambitious endeavors win the big awards. I was happiest when I found that the TB winner I was tasting contained
elements of wines from the same maker.
Falesco Montiano ($44, National), for instance, is a staggeringly profound affair; Falesco's Vitiano blend ($10) has
some of the Montiano's same dry, philosophical spirit.
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Falesco Assisi Rosso DOC Umbria
2009
February 13, 2012 8:35 pm ET
Wine Advocate called the new red blend from Falesco "a terrific value" at $16 a bottle, but it's on sale for $12.99 at
Calvert Woodley. Credit: Rob Garretson
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JANUARY 28, 2012
Another sale on this Hall of Fame
value red
Rob Garretson
DC Budget Wine Examiner
As previously noted, it‘s a great time to be a value wine shopper. Not only are great values that in
previous years would have sold out months ago still available, but wine shops are putting them on sale
to clear shelf space for the new vintage.
Wine bargain hunters in the Washington area are undoubtedly familiar with the perpetual Most Popular
Wine Sale at Calvert Woodley (the ad for which is moving from the A section to the Food section of the
Washington Post on Feb. 9). But in an —
Unadvertised Super Special“ this week, CW is selling one of our
favorite Italian red blends for the lowest price in the country.
Regular readers of this column probably don‘t need an introduction to Falesco Vitiano IGT, which
comes in red, white and rose. It belongs on the Mt. Rushmore of everyday drinking wines by virtue of its
consistent quality year in and year out and because it can be found almost any time and all over town œ
at least the red œfor $10 or less.
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Il magazine del vino italiano. L'informazione in difesa della qualità
Protagonista assoluto dell'evento con i suoi vini è l'enologo di fama internazionale Riccardo Cotarella
Cotarella Day: il 26 gennaio a Milano
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Autore: Jessica Bordoni mar, 17 gen 2012
Tag:Ais Milano, Antonello Maietta, Cotarella Day, Fiorenzo Detti, Hosam Eldin, Riccardo Cotarella, Sandro
Camilli
Pubblicato in Aziende e vini, In Evidenza, Lombardia, Mondo del Vino, Notizie
Cinquantaquattro Cantine provenienti dalle maggiori regioni vitivinicole d’Italia e non solo – l’elenco comprende anche
aziende di Francia, Bulgaria e Palestina – per un totale di 150 vini in degustazione. Sono i numeri del Cotarella Day,
una giornata dedicata alle tante etichette realizzate grazie alla consulenza dell’enologo di fama internazionale Riccardo
Cotarella. L’appuntamento, organizzato dall’Ais Milano, è per il prossimo 26 gennaio all’Hotel The Westin Palace,
nel centro di Milano.
Chiediamo al delegato della sezione milanese dell’Associazione italiana sommelier Hosam Eldin di fornirci in
anteprima qualche indicazione sulla manifestazione: «Dalle 15,30 alle 19,30 si terrà un grandioso banco di assaggio
coordinato dai nostri sommelier con i circa 150 vini tutti rigorosamente a firma Cotarella. L’idea di impegnarci per la
progettazione del Cotarella Day a Milano è venuta l’anno scorso, quando il grande wine-maker ha partecipato come
relatore a una delle serate di degustazione promosse dall’Ais, coinvolgendo i soci in un affascinate wine-tasting delle
bottiglie del Castello di Cigognola, la Casa vinicola nell’Oltrepò Pavese di proprietà della famiglia Moratti. Data
l’importanza del protagonista, nel corso del pomeriggio del 26 gennaio sono attese non meno di mille persone».
A seguire, intorno alle 21, nella sala Verdi del Westin sarà di scena il seminariodegustazione: Il 2001 interpretato da Riccardo Cotarella. Il presidente nazionale dell’Ais Antonello Maietta con i
presidenti Ais delle regioni Umbria Sandro Camilli e Lombardia Fiorenzo Detti guideranno il pubblico alla scoperta
di 13 tra le migliori creazioni del fuoriclasse dell’enologia Cotarella, tutte vendemmia 2001. «Dei 13 vini in
degustazione, 10 sono già stati resi noti, gli altri tre restano top secret. La sorpresa sarà svelata soltanto durante il
tasting», ci chiarisce il delegato Ais Milano Hosam Eldin. Ecco i dieci nomi già pubblici:
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Coltassala 2001 – Castello di Volpaia, Radda in Chianti (Siena)
Pomorosso 2001 – Coppo, Canelli (Asti)
Montiano 2001- Falasco, Montecchio (Terni)
Terra di Lavoro 2001 – Galardi, Aurunca (Caserta)
Haut Condissas 2001 – Rolland De By, Bégadan (Francia)
La Maze 2001 – Château de Frausseilles, Frausseilles (Francia)
Montevetrano 2001 – Montevetrano, San Cipriano Picentino (Salerno)
Don Antonio 2001 – Morante, Grotte (Agrigento)
Avi 2001 – San Patrignano Vini, Coriano (Rimini)
Adrano 2001 – Villa Medoro
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Pubblichiamo anche l’elenco completo delle aziende seguite da Riccardo Cotarella che prenderanno parte al banco
d’assaggio:
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Albea Vini – Alberobello (Bari)
Falesco – Montecchio (Terni)
Poggio San Polo – Montalcino (Siena)
Carvinea – Carovigno (Brindisi)
Nottola – Montepulciano (Siena)
Trequanda – Trequanda (Siena)
Montevetrano – San Cipriano Picentino (Salerno)
Grilli, La Palazzola – Terni
Pucciarella – Magione (Perugia)
Ferruccio Deiana – Settimo S. Pietro (Cagliari)
Baglio del Cristo di Campobello – Campobello di Licata (Agrigento)
La Guardiense – Guardia Sanframondi (Benevento)
Cantine Lamborghini – Panicale (Perugia)
Cascina Pastori - Bubbio (Asti)
Castello di Cigognola – Cigognola (Pavia)
Château de Frausseilles – Frausseilles, Francia
Conte Leopardi Dittajuti – Numana (Ancona)
Coppo – Canelli (Asti)
Cremisan Cellars – Cremisan, Palestina
Di Majo Norante – Campomarino (Campobasso)
Castello di Volpaia – Radda in Chianti (Siena)
Fattorie Igreco – Cariati (Cosenza)
Femar Vini – Monteporzio Catone (Roma)
Galardi – Aurunca (Caserta)
I Girasoli di Sant’Andrea – Umbertide (Perugia)
La Carraia – Orvieto (Terni)
Leone de Castris- Salice Salentino (Lecce)
Monti – Controguerra (Teramo)
Morgante – Grotte (Agrigento)
Mottura Isabella – Civitella d’Agliano (Viterbo)
Podernuovo – San Casciano dei Bagni (Siena)
Rolland De By – Bégadan, Francia
S. Isidoro- Tarquinia (Viterbo)
Sai Agricola Colpetrone – Gualdo Cattaneo (Perugia)
San Patrignano Vini – Coriano (Rimini)
San Salvatore – Giungano (Salerno)
Sardus Pater – Sant’Antioco (Cagliari)
Tenuta Poggio Al Tesoro – Castagneto Carducci (Livorno)
Barollo Marco e Nicola – Padova
Sportoletti Ernesto e Remo – Spello (Perugia)
Tenuta Decugnano dei Barbi – Orvieto (Terni)
Tenuta di Frassineto – Frassineto (Arezzo)
Tenuta Morzano – Montespertoli (Firenze)
Tenuta Vitalonga – Ficulle (Terni)
Terrazze dell’Etna – Randazzo (Catania)
Terre Cortesi Moncaro – Montecarotto (Ancona)
Terre de la Custodia – Gualdo Cattaneo (Perugia)
Tiberio – Cugnoli (Pescara)
Villa Matilde – Cellole (Caserta)
Villa Medoro – Atri (Teramo)
Villa Sandi – Crocetta del Montello (Treviso)
Per maggiori info c’è il sito: www.aislombardia.it
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January 23, 2012, 6:00 am
In Paris, Examining the Art of Cuisine
By MOLLY HANNON
Frank VerdierThe chef Jean-François Piège and the architect and designer India Mahdavi.
The city of light is home to the fourth annual Paris des Chefs festival, an event that seeks to blend
cooking and art by having chefs prepare food with a creative partner.
“The event’s aim is to address what inspires chefs outside of typical products and kitchen utensils.
We invite chefs to choose their creative partner, and the range of duets is remarkable,” said Thomas
Frébourg, a spokesman for Paris des Chefs.
For the event, at Maison de la Mutualité through Tuesday, chefs use the creative partners, many of
them artists, as catalysts that inspire a conversation about cooking and the art of creation. Although
some of the guests perform, the focus of the event remains on cuisine. The duos include the French
chef Christophe Saintagne and the French graphic designer Pierre Tachon, and the Italian pastry
chef Franco Aliberti and the oenologist Riccardo Cotarella.
“It is entertaining, but the real aim is to provoke discussion about the shared connection between the
arts and cooking,” said Mr. Frébourg. “We aim to bridge the gap between these two disciplines.”
In addition to the duos, the festival presents Programme L’Atelier, which includes demonstrations
for making chocolate mousse and other dishes, tastings of wines from Languedoc and tastings of
Jamon Iberico and other foods.
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FOOD & DRINK BLOG
Wine Wednesday: Falesco Vitiano
by Ted Scheffler
POSTED // 2012-01-11 –
A number of years ago, I was in a quandary about what wine to drink with a complex Charlie Trotter recipe -- a dish I was making for a
special dinner at home. A very knowledgeable, helpful, and friendly fellow at the 300 East Wine Store in Salt Lake City, Ron by name,
gave it some thought and made a suggestion. It was spot-on.
The wine he recommended was one I hadn't heard of before: Falesco Vitiano. But, since then, I've turned to this economically priced
wine on many, many occasions. It's on sale this month in Utah for $10.99 per bottle, normally $13.99.
Falesco Vitiano is a red wine from a winery that sits on the Lazio-Umbria in Southern Italy. It's a blend of equal amounts of Merlot,
Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese, made at Falesco's family-run winery. Winemaker Riccardo Cotarella is one of Italy's most wellknown and respected winemakers, and even consults for a producer in Bordeaux.
This is a surprisingly elegant wine for the price: a ripe, fruity red with nicely balanced plum and berry flavors, hints of chocolate, soft
tannins, and accents of sweet French oak. Wine Advocate's Robert Parker called Falesco Vitiano "an amazing value," and I don't
disagree. Stock up while it's on sale.
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Rassegna stampa_Falesco_2012

Transcript

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