La Spezia

La Spezia
Gracefully charming
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I
t is a well known fact that
to know a city inside out, a
stroll on foot brings the most
satisfaction. Our hurried
lifestyle nowadays, can
always have an improved
quality by giving ourselves
time to walk around a place,
purely to enjoy the visual
pleasures.
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This goes for La Spezia too, it should be discovered without haste leaving from the jetty where the ferries
are moored, called “Molo Italia”. Go through the exotic Public Gardens which are the pride of the city for
their careful upkeep and flourishing flora. Then along
Viale Diaz to the crossroad with Via Chiodo with its
airy shaded arcades. Straight across is Via Prione, a
lively pedestrian street in the heart of the old town.
The Civico Theatre designed by Franco Oliva comes up
on your left symbolising the elegant thirties. A little
way on where the street narrows, below the length
of wall that dates back to the beginning of the seventeenth century, what was once one of the entrances
to La Spezia can be seen. This was in fact the entrance
from the Naval Base to the walled city.
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Via del Prione
Garden along Promenade
Fish Market & Food Market
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Here we are in the heart of the town that is now a pedestrian way, and where traces of La Spezia in medieval renaissance and baroque times can be glimpsed
and not to be missed on your way are the splendid
solid Genoese doorways of the Doria Pamphili and
Massa buildings. Carved stone decorates the houses
all along Via del Prione and the surrounding side streets. A stop to admire the nearby Piazza S. Agostino
gives a real feeling of La Spezia nowadays. Looking
towards the sea, the buildings continue, these were
originally built as rows of towers like soldiers defending the city and gave homes for the nobility in the
baroque period. Towards the hillside there are postwar buildings that were erected around the 15th
century convent of Sant’Agostino.
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Promenade Morin
Viale Mazzini
Garden from hilltop
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Piazza Sant’Agostino
Arcade of via Cadorna
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The San Giorgio
Castle
Back in Via del Prione and
further along, there is Diocesan Museum, in the deconsacrated oratory of San
Bernardino. In past times,
travellers left the city from
the Porta of San Bernardino
or entered from the direction of Genoa, the Ligurian
capital, having crossed the
Foce pass. Beyond this point
lay an area that was not
open contryside but being
rich in water sources, was
agriculturally active. During
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9 San George Castle
10 Steps
11 Saint Mary of the Assumption Church
12 Vincentian Convent today Amedeo Lia Civic Museum
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the 17th and 18 th centuries windmills were active all around the large convent of
the brotherhood of San Francesco da Paola. This is the place where the fascinating museum Amedeo Lia has recently been founded.
But certainly the building that has the most standing in the historical urban plan
is the San Giorgio Castle. In past times it was of major importance in the Genoese defence system, and is now home to the municipal archeological collection.
The fort rests on a rise in the hillside, and can be reached by climbing the steps
from Via del Prione, or by road along the hillside on Via XXVII Marzo. The castle
was built and modified between the 14th and 17th centuries and is an interesting
if complex example of fortified architecture. Little of the original fort still exsistis, this was built in two parts connected to one another. Parts of the original
walls are still standing and stretch of the city wall which goes down to Piazza
Sant’Agostino. The modification at the beginning of the 17th century has given
the castle the appearence it has today. It now serves the city as a venue for a
variety of cultural activities.
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13 Entrance to Saint George Castle and walls
14 Seventeenth-century wall
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15 Saint George and the Genoese Coat of Arms
(Castle Entrance)
16 Sea View of Saint George Castle
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Coming back down via the
San Giorgio and Quintino
Sella steps, we’re in La Spezia again, to discover some
history over the last two
centuries. The growth of
the city arose from the days
of the power seeking Savoia family. This city with its
classical architecture, wide
avenues and arcades mixes
with its historical old town
centre, and later comes up
with elegant modern day
architecture.
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17 Monument in honor of Garibaldi
18 Seventeenth-century gardens
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19 Malta Cross Palace
20 Music Band-stand
21 Arcade of Via Chiodo
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The main entrance to the naval dockyard, opens onto Piazza
Chiodo. A visit here is well worthwhile to see the Industrial
Museum which was the pride and joy of modernism in the
last century and is still a centre of activity nowadays.
There are two aspects to nineteenth century Spezia, the
technological side connected to the military development in
the Gulf, and the residential facet that has given rise to the
development of parks and public places. The Public Gardens
that lie between the via Chiodo arcades and the palmlined
seafront, are symbolic of the aesthetic growth of La Spezia.
The botanical gardens were first designed in 1825 and are
today well used by the citizenship. The city’s touches of liberty style can be seen in the Gardens mostly around via
Chiodo, and in particular, the splendid bandstand that was
erected in 1866.
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22 Panoramic view of city
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The Twentieth
Century
At the beginning of the 20th century and
for ten years after, many elegant buildings
appeared, both residential and public. These remain today as the most impressive
urban aspect of La Spezia. Whilst walking
around Piazza Verdi and then via XX Settembre and via XXVII Marzo, one should
look up, not to miss a glimpse of decorative
additions to the buildings. Painting, sculpture and bas relief abound as soft female
forms, contorted animal shapes, and sturdy male figures, all silent immobile members of the population.
The city has passed through various moments of development that can be seen in
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23 Piazza Verdi & Post Office Building
24 Piazza Brin, Mirko Basaldella Fountain
25 Municipality Building
26 Piazza Europa & Cristo Re Cathedral
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so many architectural styles from Liberty to Futurism, from deco to plain rationalism up to post war times when straight lines and formality in design where
the rule. The Law Courts to the East of the city designed by Ignazio Gardella are a
solid example of the latter style, and in front of this building, almost in contrast, a
sculpture by Klein depicts man’s uncertainty.
Museums certainly house most of the city’s archaeological and artistic history,
but one can always be fascinated by artistic features on public buildings and churches. Just such an example can be seen in the glazed terracotta by Andrea della
Robbia in Santa Maria Assunta in Piazza Beverini. In Villa Marmori now the Giacomo Puccini Music Academy in via XX Settembre, the rooms are flooded with light
that filters through brightly coloured stained glass. In the Public Gardens near the
Town Hall building, stands the impressive “Winged Victory” statue by A. del Santo. And not far away in piazza Verdi, the mosaics by Fillia and Prampolini decorate
the wall of the Post Office tower, showing dynamic futuristic themes that depict
a world racing against time in a technological age.
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27 Government Palace of Franco Oliva
28 Details of Government Palace
29 Details of Villa Ceretti - Marmori
30 Details of Palace Fumagalli - Federici
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The Amedeo Lia museum gained its
name from its benefactor. In this 17th
century Convento dei Paolotti, as well
as a well furnished art collection, there
are collections of jewellery, ivory, miniatures, glass and sculptures.
The paintings are displayed in chronological order from 13th century Florence
to excellent examples of 18th century
views of Rome and Venice.
And then, the ancient castle houses a
museum that goes further back in time
to preistoric and primitive eras.
In the San Giorgio Castle, the museum
adaptly houses the prehistoric and pri-
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31 Coronation of the Vergin – Andrea della Robbia
32 Mosaic - Enrico Prampolini - Luigi Fillia
33 Details of window - Villa Ceretti - Marmori
34 A. Del Santo, Vittoria Alata
35/36 Saint George Castle - Archaeological Museum
(findings from Luni)
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mitive collection downstairs, and upstairs, the Roman collection. There are shining examples from the site in Luni and finds from medieval times. Through the
castle, the Stele Statues (carved stones that go back to 4000 B.C.) stand on guard,
reminding us of distant times. Then back the Ethnographic Museum, composed
at the end of the 19th century by Giovanni Podenzana, where the main focus is on
countrylife.
At the Palazzina delle Arti, art exibitions change throughout the year, and there
is also a curious museum of seals (Museo del Sigillo) within the same building
that boasts the largest collection of its kind. Onto the Technical Naval Museum
where an impressive collection of figureheads can be admired as well as glorious
reminders of naval history, and model ships that give us a clear picture of the
development of navigation. Other interesting collections, estabilished thanks to
private donations to the city of La Spezia can be viewed at the Diocesan Museum,
The National Transport Museum and the Museum of Modern Art (Museo d’Arte
Contemporanea) which is still at the planning stage.
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37 Figureheads - Naval Museum
38 Reliquary - Amedio Lia Museum
39 Annunciation - Amedeo Lia Museum
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40 Art Building - Seal Museum
41 Ethnographic Museum - G. Podenzana
42 Contemporary Art Museum - CAMec
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Carozzo
Montepertico
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Coste
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Stra
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Toracca
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4 FROM REBOCCO TO SANT’ANNA
Partendo da via Monfalcone, si prende la scalinata Maggiola, poi via Maggiano per Toracca Inferiore e ancora su fino a Toracca Superiore. A sinistra
inizia via Sant’Anna che porta al borgo di Sant’Anna e la sua chiesetta. Si percorre a ritroso la stessa strada fino a raggiungere la scalinata Maggiano per ritrovarsi in via Monfalcone a Rebocco.
5 FROM BUGGI TO MADONNA DELL’OLMO
Leave from Viale Fieschi up to Buggi, and just beyond turn left to take the Sant’Anna bridlepath which rises as far as Fabiano Alto. The way to the Madonna dell’Olmo starts from the square in front of the Sant’Andrea church. Cross the road and after a short stretch of surfaced road, a paved footpath
rises, keeping right you arrive at the Madonna dell’Olmo Sanctuary where the views are spectacular. Going back, take the same route as far as Fabiano
Alto, then take the downward path along Via Scresa to get to Fabiano Basso.
6 FROM SAN VENERIO CHURCH TO SAN VENERIO
Start from Via della Pieve then turn right into Via della Lobbia (part road and part footpath) and go up as far as Carozzo. Follow the footpath that
runs alongside the road to the district of San Venerio. Carry on past the houses towards Ca’ de Corna where, on the right you find steps to Castelvecchio, these take you back to the San Venerio church.
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Footpaths
on the green hillsides
around the town
We have said that La Spezia is to
be seen on foot. Now let’s look beyond the urban centre to the narrow
dividing line between town and
country, where we can climb along
a choice of numerous footpaths on
to the hillsides. Up, up, up, catching
spectacular glimpses of seascapes,
landscapes and even mountains.
ozzo
S. Venerio
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Pieve di S. Venerio
Carducci
1 ALTA VIA OF THE GULF
This network of paths connect Bocca di Magra (Ameglia) to
Porto Venere; itineraries can vary, venturing along the hillsides which crisscrosses the Gulf of La Spezia, through villages,
woods, protected areas all in a territory engulfed with artistic
history and environment.
Pitelli
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Ler
ici
2 FROM LA CHIAPPA TO MARINASCO PARISH CHURCH
Leave from via Genova (n° 368), where a footpath goes to the
bridlepath of Via Salto del Gatto as far as Guarsedo. The path
keeps rising and passes near the small church of Santa Lucia and
then turning left reaches Via Costa di Santa Lucia (an ancient
medieval track). Cross Via Montalbano to Coste (nearby the
monastery of S. Maria del Mare). From Coste a footpath goes
down to Stra. Go along Via Montalbano towards the Foce and
join the footpath that leads to the ancient S. Stefano church of
Marinasco. The descent continues along Via Guercia as far as via
Bedicenti and back to Via Genova.
3 FROM MARINASCO TO SANT’ANNA
From the Marinasco Church along Via Montalbano as far as the
Foce. Cross the Via Aurelia and take Via Parodi to Sant’Anna.
7 FROM PEGAZZANO TO BIASSA
From suburban Pegazzano, following the route that leads to the historical centre of Biassa, it is possibile to reach the area of Tramonti, part of the
Cinque Terre National Park.
8 VALDELLORA - SARBIA
From Valdellora, on the outskirts, the route goes back uphill to the historical village of Sarbia, with a panoramic view of the Gulf.
9 VAILUNGA - MONTEPERTICO
At the back of the town, from the neighbourhood of Vailunga the road leads to the hill area of Montepertico.
10 EXCURSION - PITELLI
The hillside area of Pitelli, as far back as 1900s there were for many of this area a direct path to the sea; today the itinerary winds among the
woods with panoramic views of the Gulf, climbing to Monte Canarbino the fort which dates back to 19th century descends quite nicely to Lerici.
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Along the journey from Chiappa to Salto del Gatto one arrives at the church of Marinasco, an important building decorated with gothic reliefs, from the square one can
see the Tuscany Region. Once at the footfall of the Foce, poised between the sea of
the Gulf and the woods of the Vara Valley, one can reach Sant’Anna and back to the
city near the Toracche, an interesting fortified shelter with late medieval foundations. Then again Maggiano which is on a hillock injects into La Spezia.
On the east facing slope you can go up Via della Lobbia starting from the romanesque double apsed San Venerio church. Pass alongside villa Da Passano to reach
Carozzo and from here to the district of San Venerio.
The Cinque Terre offers other choices of footpaths in the Gulf and a part of the National Park, the area around Tramonti, is within the La Spezia town council. To reach
the Cinque Terre, one must follow the footpaths that go from Biassa down to Fossola
where there is a tiny church dedicated to the Guardian Angel (Angelo Custode).
From here, as one looks out to distant horizons on the sea, a footpath can be glimpsed linking Monasteroli and Schiara and up to Campiglia.
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43 View of La Spezia from Marinasco
44 Stair way to “Salto del Gatto”
45 Glance at Tramonti - from Palmaria and Tino Island Side
46 Romanesque Church of San Venerio
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The culinary arts in La Spezia bring together the fruits of the
land and sea, in a surprising but tasty way, anchovies and
potatoes, or cuttle fish and fresh greens for example. The sea
might offer fresh Mediterranean fish, sea bass octopus and
mussels, and salted cod can be prepared in crispy batter or in
a scrumptious sauce (stoccafisso). Just as mouthwatering are
the dishes from the countryside and the hillsides, such as homemade herb tarts and ravioli. The olive oil is of course excellent in these parts and adds a finishing touch to a tasty bowl
of “mesc-ciua” a local soup made with chick peas and spelt (a
type of wheat). Walking through the town centre, whiffs of
this soup and “farinata” waft past to whet our appetites for a
taste of these specialities made in La Spezia.
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Salvatore Marchese
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47 “Mesc-ciua”
48 Fish Soup
49 Chick-pea Flour Pie
50 Fresh Fish of the Gulf
51 Mussels - from the Gulf
52 Saffron - Campiglia
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The Gulf
and the
open sea
San Venerio, the courageus hermit lived his life fearlessly
on the open sea. The coastline of the Gulf has carved its
way around the bay, leaving sheer rocky drops, interspersed
with inlets and coves. Waves lap harshly around the islands
while inland, flourishing flora thrives inspite of inaccessible
coastlines. In early medieval times, following the saint, the
stony islands of Tino and Tinetto became religious settlements, and there had also been Christian proclamation in
Porto Venere since the times of Gregorio Magno in the 6th
century. The west coast is rocky and less populated than
across the bay, where Lerici and its pisano-genoese castle are linked with noble Sarzana, the Val di Magra and the
coast. The gulf embraces the islands of Porto Venere and
stretches on the opposite side to the rocky, purple streaked
Punta Bianca: at the centre of this embrace lies La Spezia.
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53 Amerigo Vespucci Tall Ship near Scola Tower
54 View of Tino Island from Palmaria Island
55 Panoramic View of Gulf
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TRADITIONAL & RELIGIOUS EVENTS:
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San Giuseppe, Patron Saint of the city (March 19th)
From Square to Square (April)
Liguria da Bere (end of June)
Jazz International Festival (July)
Palio del Golfo (1st Sunday in August)
San Venerio, Patron Saint of the Gulf (September 13)
La Fattoria in città (last Sunday of November)
Cercantico, antique fair (1st Sunday of every month except
for July and August)
Festa della Marineria (June 2011 - biennial)
EVENTS/MANIFESTAZIONI ONLINE
www.turismoprovincia.laspezia.it
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56 “Liguria da Bere” Festival
57 San Venerio Procession
58 The Farm in the City
59 Feast of Saint Joseph
60 Boat Race in the Gulf
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USEFUL TELEPHONE NUMBERS - LA SPEZIA
Town Hall
City Council Tourism Service
Beghi Civic Library
U. Castagna I.T. Library
Mazzini Civic Library
University
Civic Theatre
Amedeo Lia Civic Museum
Art Gallery - Seal Museum
CAMEC (Modern and Contemporary Art Centre)
S. George Castle (Archaeological Museum U. Formentini)
Diocesan Museum and Museum of Ethnographyc
“G. Podenzana”
Naval Museum
Transport Museum
Boat trip Agency
Harbour Offices
Transport Agency A.T.C.
Train Station
Public Swimming Pool
Sports Centre
Local Health Centre
City Police
Carabinieri
Welfare Assistance
Post Office
Taxi - Radio Taxi
Youth and Multimedia Cultural Centre - D. Ruggiero
Youth Hostel “Tramonti”
Campervan Parking Area
P.zza Europa, 1
Via Fiume, 207
Trasversale Via del Popolo, 61
Via del Popolo, 61
C.so Cavour, 251
Via dei Colli, 90
P.zza Mentana
Via del Prione, 234
Via del Prione, 236
P.zza C. Battisti, 1
Via XXVII Marzo
Via del Prione, 156
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V.le Amendola, 1
Via Fossitermi, 1
Via Don Minzoni, 13
V.le Italia, 4
P.zza Chiodo, 7
P.le Medaglie D’Oro
Via Monfalcone, 4
Via della Pianta
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tel/Fax
Via XXIV Maggio, 139
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Via Lamarmora, 17
tel
Via Generale dalla Chiesa, 1
tel
Via Carducci
tel
P.zza Verdi
tel
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Via Monteverdi, 117 (Fossitermi) tel
Via F. Filzi, 110 (Biassa)
tel
Loc. Pagliari
tel
Local Touristic System CinqueTerre & Riviera Spezzina
c/o Township Via Telemaco Signorini, 118
19017 Riomaggiore
www.stl5terre.it - [email protected]
0187 7271
0187 745627
0187 513295
0187 599354
0187 738279
0187 751265
0187 757075
0187 731100
0187 778544
0187 734593
0187 751142
0187 258570
0187 783016
313 8043639 - 335 5451474
0187 732987
0187 258101
800 322 322
0187 892121
0187 702066
0187 510869
0187 564238
0187 5331
0187 7261
0187 5911
0187 564001
0187 258431
0187 523523
0187 713264
0187 758507
331 7233910
Local Touristic System
Golfo dei Poeti, Val di Magra e Val di Vara
Tel. 0187 733525 - 0187 763253 - Fax 0187 733525
www.stl.sp.it - [email protected]
La Spezia Province - Tourism Service · Viale Mazzini 47 - Tel. 0187 7421 · Fax 0187 770908
www.provincia.sp.it - [email protected]
IAT - TOURISTIC INFORMATION
& RECEPTION OFFICE
& LOCAL TOURIST OFFICES
LA SPEZIA
Viale Italia, 5
Tel. 0187 770900
Fax 0187 023945· [email protected]
c/o Railway Station
P.le Medaglie D’Oro
Tel. 0187 718997 · Fax 0187 023945
Brugnato
c/o Highway entrance area
Tel. 0187 896526
Fax 0187 896944
100% Ecological Paper
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Connections by Land/Sea/Air
Connections by road: Motorway A12 - Genova-Livorno; Motorway A15 - La Spezia-Parma; S.S. n. 1 Aurelia; S.S. n. 62 del
Passo della Cisa; S.S. n. 63 del Passo del Cerreto; S.S. n. 331 - S.S. n. 330 - S.S n. 530 - S.S. n. 370.
Connections by rail: Trains for all destinations leave from the Central Station La Spezia
Connections by air: International Airport “C. Colombo” - Genova - Tel. 010/60151 - Km 100
International Airport “G. Galilei” - Pisa - Tel. 050/849300 - Km 90
Airclub Luni Via Alta Vecchia S. Lazzaro Sarzana - Tel. 0187/673180 - Km 18
Bus services: Services throughout the province excluding the Cinque Terre and Riviera apart from Volastra (Riomaggiore),
Azienda Trasporti Consortile (A.T.C.) - Information: everyday (holydays included) from 07.00 am to 07.30 pm toll free
number 800 322 322; from 05.15 am to 07.00 am and from 07.30 pm to 02.00 am Tel. 0187 522511 - Services for Toscana Emilia - Trentino: (January/March-July/August) - Lorenzini S.r.l. - Via Larga, 105 - Ortonovo - Tel. 66804
Connections by sea: Golfo della Spezia - Cinque Terre - Tigullio - Versilia
CONSORZIO MARITTIMO TURISTICO 5 TERRE GOLFO DEI POETI Via Don Minzoni, 13 - 19121 · La Spezia - Tel. 0187 732987
Fax 0187 730336 www.navigazionegolfodeipoeti.it
TORINO MILANO
GENOVA - SAVONA
RAPALLO - GENOVA
MILANO BOLOGNA
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Publication realized by:
Provincia della Spezia Servizio Turismo
Service direction: dr. Marco Casarino,
Dirigente del Servizio
Editorial coordination:
dr. Sabrina Cipriani, Responsabile Unità
Organizzativa Promozione/Editoria
Collaboration: Antonio Protopapa (Editoria), Susanna Cuccureddu, Concetta La Placa (Amministrazione)
Viale Mazzini 47 - 19121 La Spezia - Tel. 0187 7421
Fax 0187 770908
www.provincia.sp.it - [email protected]
Text: Andrea Marmori & Salvatore Marchese
Iconographic research and page layout: B&B Grafi ca
Digitale S.r.l.
Photographs: Archivio Regione Liguria,
Archivio Fotografico della Provincia della Spezia
A
CARRA
LUCC RA
PISA A
FIREN
VERS ZE
ROMAILIA
Archives - Diocesan Cultural Estates
Archives – Province of La Spezia - Photos
Other Photographs: Walter Bilotta, Sergio Fregoso,
Claudia Galli, Dina Nobili, Davide Palummo, Enrico
Amici, Federigo Salvadori, Angelo Barberis, Davide
Marcesini
Extended Thank you: Alda Betucchi & Silvia Cavallini
Edition 2010 · © Provincia della Spezia
Offset and photo printing:
www.bebgraficadigitale.it
Printing: La Zincografica Fiorentina (FI)
Traslated by: Catherine Bonanini
Cover photograph:
Promenade Morin
Back cover:
Amerigo Vespucci Tall Ship in the Gulf of Poets
Provincia La Spezia Turismo (Group)
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