insider`s guide - Milano Moda Donna

Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana presents
MIL AN
FASHION
WEEK
INSIDER’S GUIDE
Fall/ Winter 2017/2018
LETTER FROM THE CHAIRMAN
Hello everyone and welcome back to Milan!
In the year just begun, we have already undertaken major initiatives to
consolidate our work around our key focus areas: sustainability; young
designers and new brands; digitalisation, and relationships with other
institutions, both in Italy and abroad. Areas in which we have identified the key
elements necessary to lead Italian fashion into the future.
The calendar for this season of Milano Moda Donna once again demonstrates
our commitment to the promotion of young designers: the shows staged
by Calcaterra, Daizy Shely, Lucio Vanotti and Ricostru are all supported by
Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana; a new edition of the Fashion Hub Market
will bring together the collections of 15 designers from all around the world;
our collaboration continues with Giorgio Armani, this time with his support to
Xu Zhi, the young designer hosted at the Armani/Teatro ; while Angel Chen will
be part of the Mercedes-Benz International Designer Exchange Program and
Situationist will show its collections thanks to the collaboration between White
Milano and CNMI.
Here are the other novelties of this edition: the use of the beautiful Cavallerizze
venue in the National Museum of Science and Technology, with a room for
fashion shows and two for presentations; the first shows uniting the men’s
and women’s collections by Bottega Veneta and Gucci; the 40th anniversary
of Anna Molinari; the first show by Francesco Risso at Marni, and many other
appointments in a Milan brimming with fashion, culture and creativity, with
many interesting moments both to see and to experience, as you may discover
as you browse through these pages.
Lastly, let me point out the exhibition Portraits by Maurizio Galimberti, which
will be open to the public throughout the Week at our Fashion Hub in Piazza
Gae Aulenti.
Have a good Fashion Week!
Carlo Capasa
Franca
Editing and design Boiler Corporation
Cover Illustration Emiliano Ponzi
Transaltions Bennett Bazalgette-Staples
Printing Grafiche Antiga, Crocetta del Montello (TV)
Images and texts: © respective authors and owners.
No part of this volume may be reproduced without
the prior written permission of CNMI.
CNMI and Boiler Corporation would like to thank the press
and communication offices of the institutions and companies
featured in this publication for their kind collaboration.
Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana
Piazza Duomo 31, 20122 Milano - Italy
www.cameramoda.it
Instagram and Twitter @cameramoda
Printed on paper produced exclusively using wood/cellulose
from FSC-certified forests. Forest Stewardship Council
(FSC) certification ensures that the wood used comes from
well managed forests ensuring environmental, social and
economic benefits.
4
INDEX
HIGHLIGHTS
EVENTI FASHION WEEK
At Milano Moda Donna
i-D & The Blonde Salad:
for the first time
6
New Wave Milano
17
Blumarine celebrates 40 years
6
Marie Claire, Timeless
17
30 years with Elle
18
Jewels of the 20 th century
18
Mar ni: Risso’s debut on the
Womenswear
7
New location for CNMI shows
and presentations
7
Gucci: the Men’s and
Women’s collections
to be presented together
8
The Next Talents
8
Xu Zhi is the new Armani talent
9
Bottega Veneta, single show
9
EVENTI CULTURALI
Give Me Yesterday
19
The Art Of Shoes
20
Boom 60!
20
Science and Art at
Fondazione Prada
Rubens and the birth
of the Baroque
Angel Chen and Vivetta Ponti:
Mercedes-Benz Inter national
Designer Exchange Program
9
PORTRAITS
10
FASHION HUB MARKET
12
21
22
200 Photographs by
Paolo Monti
22
In the days of Sequins
23
Keith Haring about Art
23
EATING AND DRINKING
IN MILAN
25
WELLNESS
36
5
HIGHLIGHTS
AT M I L A N O M O D A D O N N A
FOR THE FIRST TIME
Among the 70 shows planned, at Milano Moda Donna a number of
new brands will also be present for the first time. As well as the young
designer hosted by Giorgio Armani in collaboration with CNMI, we shall
also see the debut of Annakiki (22 February, 8.30 pm), Angel Chen (23
February, 5 pm) and Calcaterra (26 February, 8 pm) and Situationist
(24 February, 8.30 pm), supported by White Milano and CNMI. The
inter national scope of the MFW continues with the inclusion of Vionnet,
on the event’s official calendar for the first time (24 February, 8 pm).
There are also a great number of new names among the presentations.
www.milanomodadonna.it
BLUMARINE
C E L E B R AT E S 4 0 Y E A R S
Highlights
Further info may be found on the website
Anna Molinari grew up in Carpi, and her parents
were textile industrialists: she could not but
have been influenced by such a context. And so
in 1977 she debuted with her label Blumarine.
A high-charged femininity, with a femme at
times fatale, at other times enfant. She has
created such cult objects such as the T-shirt
with a logo in Swarovski crystals or the famous
Blu V, the little cashmere cardigan with a mink
neck. The anniversary will be celebrated with
a book published by Rizzoli, to be presented
on 24 February from 6.30 to 8 pm at the Rizzoli
bookshop in Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, and on
Saturday 25 February at 12.30 pm with a show at
number 12 via Passione.
www.blumarine.com
6
MARNI: RISSO’S DEBUT
ON THE WOMENSWEAR
After Consuelo Castiglioni left the creative
directorship of the brand she founded 20 years
ago for personal reasons, owned by OTB since
2013, the role was passed to Francesco Risso.
After studying at the Polimoda in Florence, at the
Fashion Institute of Technology in New York and
at the Saint Martins in London, Mr Risso worked
with Anna Molinari, Alessandro Dell’Acqua and
Malo, before arriving in Prada in 2008. After
opening with the men’s collection last January
here in Milan, he will present his first women’s
collection on Sunday 26 February at 10.30 am at
number 42 Viale Umbria.
www.marni.com/it
A new location in Milano Moda Donna is the spazio Cavallerizze, part of
the National Museum of Science and Technology. The space, recently
Highlights
N E W L O C AT I O N F O R C N M I
S H O W S A N D P R E S E N TAT I O N S
refurbished by architect Luca Cipelletti, will host a fashion show room
and two presentation halls. Comeforbreakfast, Marios, Piccione.Piccione,
Ricostru, Lucio Vanotti and Vivetta are just some of the brands that will
present their collections in this rediscovered jewel of Milan.
www.museoscienza.org/cavallerizze/
7
GUCCI: THE MEN’S AND
WOMEN’S COLLECTIONS
TO BE PRESENTED TOGETHER
Marco Bizzarri, President and CEO of Gucci, has announced
that the brand will unite its men’s and women’s shows
starting from this Fashion Week, when the creative director
Alessandro Michele will present a single collection on
Wednesday 22 in the new venue in via Mecenate. Michele
says: “I feel it to be quite natural to present the Uomo and
Donna Collections together. It’s just how I see the world
today,” testifying to how the gender theme is ever closer to
the heart of the strategic choices in the world of fashion.
What’s more, Gucci confirms that it will maintain its “see
now, buy later” strategy in order to respect the needs of the
creative and manufacturing processes of the sector.
www.gucci.it
Palazzo Morando once again hosts ‘The Next
Talents’: a scouting project backed by YOOX
and Vogue Italia: on 22 February the historical
Highlights
T H E N E X T TA L E N T S
palazzo will be transformed into an exclusive
showroom for the chosen inter national
designers, remaining open throughout Fashion
Week. Presenting their own apparel collections,
there will be Nicola Brognano and Carlo Volpi
with the brand bearing their own names, the
Ukrainian Marianna Senchyna, Daniele Giorgio
the designer of PARDEN’s, the Cypriot-Greek
duo Dimos Natar and Andreas Georgiou of Natargeorgiou; Giorgia Totaro will feature
her own kidswear collection entitled “La Bottega di Giorgia”, while for accessories
there will be the bags of Pugnetti Parma by Filippo Pugnetti, Soloviere shoes by the
French-bor n Alexia Aubert, jewellery by the German Xenia Bous; the selection will
be completed by a design brand: the Danish Troels Flensted. All the items on show
for the SS 2017 season will be on sale on YOOX, including those created especially
for the event by each of the brands involved. After the invite-only opening, from 23
to 26 February, the event open to the public will also offer special talks dedicated to
protagonists from the world of fashion.
www.yoox.com / www.vogue.it
8
X U Z H I I S T H E N E W A R M A N I TA L E N T
Since 2013, Giorgio Armani has promoted and supported new
talents, letting them showcase their work at the Armani/Teatro.
During this edition, Xu Zhi will be given this honour. Chinese,
based in London, Zhi studied at Saint Martins and worked for
J.W. Anderson and Craig Green prior to setting up his own
brand. He aims to stand out in the luxury category thanks to
his contemporary outlook on one hand and his use of fine
craftsmanship on the other. The show, in collaboration with
CNMI is set for Saturday 25 February at 10.30 am at 59 via
Bergognone.
www.xuzhi.co.uk
B O T T E G A V E N E TA , S I N G L E S H O W
Bottega Veneta has also announced that from 2017, in February
and September, during the Milano Moda Donna, it will present
its collections with a single Men-Women show. This decision
September 2016 celebrating the 15th anniversary of Tomas Maier
as creative director, and the 50th anniversary of the Vicenza
maison itself. The Bottega Veneta universe is built around both
sexes, and so a single show is an organic move, entirely in
Highlights
represents a natural evolution after the unified show in
keeping with the evolution of the brand.
www.bottegaveneta.it
A N G E L C H E N A N D V I V E T TA P O N T I :
M E R C E D E S - B E N Z I N T E R N AT I O N A L
D E S I G N E R E XC H A N G E P R O G R A M
As part of the Inter national Designer Exchange Program,
Mercedes-Benz presents Chinese designer Angel Chen as a
special guest at Milan Fashion Week. The following month,
Italian fashion designer Vivetta Ponti will show her collection
at Mercedes-Benz China Fashion Week. Vivetta was chosen
from a shortlist of five Italian designers and Angel Chen,
from a shortlist of six Chinese designers, by a panel of
judges including Xiao Xue, Freda Wang, Carlo Capasa, Giusi
Ferré, and Karla Otto. Angel Chen’s Milan debut will take
place on Thursday, February 23rd at 5 p.m at the Scalone
Arengario at Palazzo Reale.
www.mercedes-benz.com
9
PORTRAITS
The UniCredit Pavilion will host a retrospective of the photographer Maurizio
Galimberti. During the weekend, a series of Lectio Magistralis will be held
in the VIP Lounge area, aimed at fans and students of fashion, design, art
and photography schools. Here are the dates of the lectures, which will be
moderated by Mariateresa Cerretelli:
- Friday 24 February, 5.00 – 6.30 pm, Finzione e Realtà with Piero Gemelli
- Saturday 25 February, 5 – 6.30 pm, Faccia Da Schiaffi with Toni Thorimbert
- Sunday 26 February, 5 – 6.30 pm, Instant Artist with Maurizio Galimberti
From 22 to 27 February. Fashion Hub, UniCredit Pavilion, Piazza Gae Aulenti 10
http://www.mauriziogalimberti.it/
10
wonder… Maurizio, where should I look? What should I do? I don’t reply, and keep
on shooting without wasting a second... Five minutes later the shoot is over... in
Portraits
At times the silent rhythm of my portraits forces the subjects of my portraits to
the perfect order... ready to be put together... without adding anything... without
taking away or substituting anything...
In the beautiful book An Inner Silence. The Portraits of Henr y Cartier-Bresson,
reading the presentation of the great Jean-Luc Nancy, I find the response to the
silence and the physical immobility of my portraits... He writes: “The real portrait
is the one in which the figure represented is not captured in any action nor adopts
an expression which leads away from the person...” As Cartier-Bresson says,
“Above all, I look for an inner silence... I tr y to translate the personality and not
an expression...” I identify entirely with this... this is my response to silence... to
immobility... to catching the subject off guard that my portraits entail...
It’s the mental composition during the shoot that leads them into a futuristDuchampian dynamic... a composition which I find obsessive... Yet they (the
subjects), are absolutely immobile and silent... Intimately I have always sought the
words of Jean-Luc Nancy... intimately I have always followed the ‘biting mosquito’
sense of the project of Henr y Cartier-Bresson.
(Maurizio Galimberti)
11
FAS H I O N H U B
MARKET
22 – 27 February 2017
The fourth edition of the Fashion Hub Market, held inside
the UniCredit Pavilion in Piazza Gae Aulenti, is one of the
most interesting scouting opportunities of Milano Moda
Donna. The CNMI offers a selection of 14 up-and-coming
Italian and foreign brands presenting their prêt-à-porter and
accessories collections.
www.milanomodadonna.it/it/fashion-hub-market
Fashion Hub Market
Every day from 9 am to 7 pm
Nora Aldamer
(Kalyah)
Nora Aldamer, born and bred in Saudi
Arabia but with a passion for fashion that
led her to graduate from the Parsons
School in New York. In 2013, she launched
the first collection of her own brand. The
roots are those of her homeland, of which
she explores the costumes, transposing
them onto an extremely contemporary
concept of elegance.
12
Michele Chiocciolini
(Chiocciolini Firenze)
F r a n c e s c o D ’A m i c o
(Damico Milano)
2012, together with his sister Francesca
Launched by the fashion designer from
he founded his own brand and opened the
Latina Francesco d’Amico, the brand
Atelier Chiocciolini. Sharp geometric lines
debuted with its first collection in
blend perfectly with softness and fluidity.
September 2015 during Milano Moda
Flexible gestures, emotions transformed
Donna. It’s a brand of women’s luxury
into objects and dreams into material are
footwear which brings together research,
the stylistic hallmarks that identify him.
culture, technique and femininity in a
single product.
Fashion Hub Market
A Florentine architecture graduate, in
Lalo Dolidze
(Lalo)
Lalo Dolidze is a Georgian designer who
began her career creating handmade
Daniela Fiorilli
cardigans. Together with her twin Nina,
(Guen)
in 2012 she launched Lalocardigans,
Daniela Fiorilli also retur ns to the Fashion
drawing inspiration most of all from the
Chamber Hub. After Polimoda in Florence
world of nature, plants and flowers. In
and the Fashion Institute of Technology
2016 they launched a second line: Lalo,
in New York, she worked for Escada and
underpinned by a more sophisticated and
Patrizia Pepe. In 2012 she created Guen,
luxurious concept. Each item is still made
and in this fourth edition, she presents an
by hand and thus unique.
anthology of her most iconic items.
13
Clara Giaquinto
(Cora)
Davide Grillo
Class of ‘93, he trained between Parma,
Saint Martins and the IED. After an
Polytechnic and the IUAV, went on to work
experience in Dolce&Gabbana Alta Moda,
in Australia, Bali and NY. On returning to
in 2016 he founded a brand using his
Milan, she collaborated with Aquilano.
own name. The fabrics of his collection
Rimondi and in February 2016 founded
feature illustrations and fine embroidery
her own brand, Cora. Her garments are
which enhance the light silhouettes for the
extremely luscious and feminine, designed
ethereal, romantic and nostalgic woman.
for the elegant and modern woman.
His is a joyful return to the Hub.
Fashion Hub Market
Clara Giaquinto, after studying at the Milan
Marco Laganà
Hiroki Kataoka
This is the second time at the Fashion
After having worked as a 3D designer,
a degree in Fashion Design from Milan
at the age of 25 he decided to turn his
Polytechnic, in 2013 he moved to Paris
attention to artisanal shoes. His creations
and worked for the footwear brand
are based on the fusion of Japanese
Camille Tanoh. In 2015, on returning to
geek culture: cartoons, manga and street
Italy, he founded the shoe brand with his
fashion. A genuine explosion of colour
own name, was shortlisted for Who’s On
and creativity. He was selected by Swatch
Next and took part in the group show “Il
as the winner of Its Artwork 2015.
nuovo vocabolario della moda italiana”.
Hub Market also for him. After gaining
14
D i l ya ra M i n ra k h m a n ova
e M a x i m B a s h ka ev
Marco Rambaldi
(Outlaw Moscow)
Born in 1990 in Bologna, he graduated
Founded and directed by Dilyara
then in 2013 in Fashion Design at the
Minrakhmanova, who deals with the
IUAV. Structural composition, chromatic
women’s collections, and Maxim
combinations and experimentation with
Bashkaev, who deals with the men’s.
materials are the elements that most
Their aim is to fight the aggressiveness,
characterise his work. His image is sharp,
isolation and hatred that still exist in
clean, and stands out by virtue of its
many fields of moder n Russia. They are
strong linearity.
first in graphic design and product design,
into which Asian and European cultures
overflow and become more extreme.
B a v Ta i l o r
Fashion Hub Market
inspired by the Russian artistic heritage,
Francesco Visone
Bor n in Naples in ‘92. This made it
Bor n in London, of Indian origins. She
possible for him to have access to the
specialised in Fashion Design at the
greatest crafts skills in the world, and he
IED in Milan. In 2015 she founded her
therefore decided to localise production
own sustainable luxury brand, following
entirely in his hometown. He debuted at
on from the sartorial tradition of her
Super and White, and then at Premium in
grandparents. She uses materials and
Berlin and Premiere Classe. The Chamber
techniques that condense the excellence
of Fashion has chosen him to include him
of innovation and artisanal skill.
on this platform for the second time.
15
M o m o Wa n g
(Museum of Friendship)
A women’s brand founded in February
Jiaqi Zhong e
Jenny Nelson
( To m m y Z h o n g )
at Saint Martins. Museum of Friendship
Also the brand founded by Tommy Zhong
designs and collects unforgettable
and Jenny Nelson in 2015 returns to the
memories, emotions and experiences
limelight here. It stands out for its unique,
shared exclusively among girls.
handmade fabrics. The two designers
A collection that speaks of intimacy and
work together to join Oriental heritage and
journeys through the female universe.
aesthetics with Western creativity.
Fashion Hub Market
2014 in London by Momo Wang, a student
16
FAS H I O N W E E K
EVENTS
New Wave Milano
A new energy has taken hold of Milan. Thanks
to a series of artists, musicians, designers,
influencers and stylists who have decided to
make the city their home. i-D & The Blonde Salad
have chosen to celebrate this new wave with
#NewWaveMilano, the new energy that is shaking
the city, with an exclusive party of which CNMI is
institutional partner.
23 February from 10.30 pm. By invitation only.
Fashion Week events
#NewWaveMilano
23 Febbraio 2017
h 22:30
i - D & T H E B LON DE S A L A D :
N E W W AV E M I L A N O
MARIE CLAIRE, TIMELESS
Once again for Milano Moda Donna, Marie Claire confirms its
collaboration with the Association of Via della Spiga, bringing the
exhibition Timeless to the streets. More than 25 photos printed onto
large supports will alter nate with videos projected onto eight screens
throughout the week. The sense of time will be told through some of its
most iconic values: the beauty, style and elegance of a woman.
With the patronage of CNMI.
From 22 to 28 February
Via della Spiga
www.marieclaire.it
17
30 YEARS WITH ELLE
In 2017, Elle Italia celebrates its 30th anniversary. This will be marked by
a year of special contents, initiatives and events that will commence on
the occasion of the Milano Fashion Week in February. The appointment
with Elle during the Week will once again be in Brera, in via Fiori Chiari,
with a street exhibition of 300 umbrellas suspended, depicting the
most beautiful images of models and iconic looks shot by inter national
photographers. The official hashtag is #30anniconelle.
With the patronage of CNMI.
From 22 to 28 February. Via Fiori Chiari
J E W E L S O F T H E 2 0 TH
C E N T U RY
On show at the Museo Poldi Pezzoli, 150 works
of Italian jewellery of the 20th century. An
organic collection of exemplars showing the
value of Italian production, with the creativity
and techniques adopted by the finest jewellers,
goldsmiths and artists, starting with Buccellati,
Fashion Week events
www.elle.it
Alfredo Ravasco, Filippo Chiappe, Musy,
Petochi, Codognato and Ascione. Then the ’40s,
in the shadow of World War II, with the work
of Cusi, Chantecler and Illario, not to mention
the jewels designed by the artists Afro and
Pomodoro. Then the ’60s and ’70s with the new
Bulgari style; the ’80s and ’90s with jewels to
be wor n mor ning, noon and night by Pomellato,
Giò Caroli and Rivière, and last but not least,
the creations of the ‘Scuola di Padova’.
Until 20 March
Museo Poldi Pezzoli, Via Manzoni 12
Tel. +39 02.794889
www.museopoldipezzoli.it
18
C U LT U R A L E V E N T S
Cultural events
G I V E M E Y E S T E R D AY
The programming of the Osservatorio – the new Fondazione Prada space
given over to photography – opens with the show Give Me Yesterday,
curated by Francesco Zanot, with a selection of over 50 works by 14 Italian
and international artists: Melanie Bonajo, Kenta Cobayashi, Tomé Duarte,
Irene Fenara, Lebohang Kganye, Vendula Knopová, Leigh Ledare, Wen
Ling, Ryan McGinley, Izumi Miyazaki, Joanna Piotrowska, Greg Reynolds,
Antonio Rovaldi and Maurice van Es. The show explores the use of
photography as an intimate, everyday and personal diary over a period of
time ranging from the start of the millennium up to the present day.
Until 12 March
Fondazione Prada L’Osservatorio. Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II
Tel. +39 02.56662611
www.fondazioneprada.org/visit/milano-osservatorio/
19
THE ART OF SHOES
A retrospective curated by Cristina Carrillo
de Albornoz illustrates the wonderful world
MANOLO
BLAHNÍK
of Manolo Blahnik, one of the leading names
in contemporary fashion. His creative career
is retraced in Palazzo Morando where, along
with the various historical collections, 80
sketches and 212 shoes covering 45 years of
exhibition aims to recount the profound influence
that Italian art and culture have had and continue
Photography ©Carlo Draisci.
the designer’s activity will be on show. The
THE
ART OF
SHOES
to have on his creations. Milan will be the
opening stage for this exhibition, by virtue of the
strong link between Blahnik and Italy; it will then
PALAZZO MORANDO | COSTUME MODA IMMAGINE
via Sant'Andrea 6 - Milano - MM3 Montenapoleone . MM1 San Babila
Until 9 April. Palazzo Morando
26 GENNAIO - 9 APRILE 2017
www.civicheraccoltestoriche.mi.it
Via Sant’Andrea 6. Tel. +39 02.88465735
www.costumemodaimmagine.mi.it
BOOM 60!
Cultural events
be housed at the Hermitage in St Petersburg.
At the Museo del Novecento, the protagonists are
the most explosive years of the Italian economy
with the exhibition BOOM 60! Era arte moderna.
An exhibition dedicated to art in Italy around the
turn of the 1960s, and its media presence in the
most popular communication channels. Around
140 works of painting, sculpture and graphic art
dialogue with the pages of magazines as well as
movie and television footage, presenting their
ways of recounting art, from the front covers to
the inquiries, from the critical columns to the
adverts, from photojournalism to satire.
Until 12 March 2017
Museo del Novecento, Via Marconi 1
Tel. +39 02.88444072
20
Inside an artificial habitat, the American Michael Wang in Extinct in the Wild
brings together various species of flora and fauna no longer existent in
nature, bred only in captivity. In the spaces of the Galleria Nord, three glass
and aluminium structures with artificial lights display a series of ‘extinct
in nature’ elements, along with 20 photographs taken since 2014 by Wang
himself, portraying various species of plants and animals in their original
habitats prior to their extinction. Pamela Rosenkranz, with Slight Agitation,
Cultural events
SCIENCE AND ART
AT F O N D A Z I O N E P R A D A
shows the action of a parasite active on a neurological level, which would
appear to affect around 30% of the world population. A towering mountain
of sand inside the Cisterna is imbibed with a fragrance obtained using
feline pheromones recreated in a laboratory, capable of activating specific
reactions of attraction and repulsion and of subconsciously influencing
the movement of visitors. A green RGB light illuminates this enormous
chemically altered mass, making the scent evaporate slowly. This sitespecific piece is designed to explore the ways through which physical and
biological processes influence art.
Various dates. Fondazione Prada. Largo Isarco 2
Tel. +39 02.56662611
www.fondazioneprada.org
21
RUBENS AND THE BIRTH
OF THE BAROQUE
A key artist in the history of European art, Peter Paul Rubens is still not well
known in Italy, despite his stay on the peninsula between 1600 and 1608.
Palazzo Reale highlights Rubens’s relationship with ancient art and classical
statues, as well as his interest in the great masters of the Renaissance, in
order to raise awareness of the extraordinary influence he had on the young
protagonists of the Baroque period, such as Pietro da Cortona, Bernini,
Lanfranco and Luca Giordano.
Until 26 February. Palazzo Reale
www.mostrarubens.it
Cultural events
We owe to him the first signs of the birth of Baroque, and indeed the show at
2 0 0 P H OT O G R A P H S BY PAO LO M O N T I
An exhibition with 200 original photographs, taken between 1935 and 1982, along with
magazines, books, documents and unseen film footage, investigates the work of one of
the most important Italian photographers of the 20th century: Paolo Monti.
An industrial manager, his love for photography grew to the point of making him choose it
as a career, alongside his intense activity as a critic and curator. Starting in 1953 in Milan,
he rose to become a photographer of international standing, working for the Triennials, for
leading architecture studios (BBPR, Gio Ponti, Albini and Scarpa), for artists, as well as
putting together his own major experimental and artistic production.
Until 12 March 2017
Castello Sforzesco. Tel. +39 02.88463660
www.milanocastello.it
22
I N T H E D AY S O F S E Q U I N S
Bringing together garments that have one thing in common: sequins. That is what
Gian Luca Bovenzi, Ilaria De Palma and Barbara De Dominicis have done through a
small and careful selection from among the more than 4,000 garments in the Palazzo
Morando collections. With Ricami di Luce we may trace the evolution of sequins from
1770 to 2004, examining the fascinating jour ney of these little discs of light, first
in metal then in gelatine, acetate, PVC, right up to the moder n polyester. A homage
to the work carried out in the 1970s by the costume historian Grazietta Butazzi, the
starting point for the cataloguing currently underway.
Until 2 July 2017
Palazzo Morando, Via Sant’Andrea 6. Tel. +39 02.88446056
KEITH HARING
ABOUT ART
An exhibition curated by Gianni
Mercurio traces the entire life and
works of one of the artists best
Cultural events
www.civicheraccoltestoriche.mi.it
loved by the fashion community,
Keith Haring, bringing to light a
vast selection of works from around
the world, and highlighting the
figure of the militant artist with
his broad-ranging and articulated
references to other artists and
languages. In his canvases and his
graffiti works, these links constitute
a meeting point between different
yet universal cultures.
From 21 February to 18 June 2017
Palazzo Reale. Tel. +39 02.88445181
www.palazzorealemilano.it
23
MILANOMODADONNA.IT
CAMERAMODA.IT
Live streaming fashion shows
Shows and presentations photos
Videos
24
E AT I N G A N D
DRINKING IN MILAN
DUOMO / CASTELLO
PORTA ROMANA
Giacomo all’Arengario
26
Bar Luce
32
La Brisa
27
Potafiori
34
Langosteria
26
Pasticceria Marchesi
28
NAVIGLI / DARSENA
Riso e Latte
27
Enrico Bartolini al Mudec
34
T’a
27
Elita Bar
34
Trussardi alla Scala
28
The Botanical Club
35
Yokohama
29
PORTA VOLTA / GARIBALDI
BRERA
Ceresio 7
35
Radetzky
30
Dry
31
Mandarin Oriental
31
Pacifico
29
OTHERS
Pisacco
29
Michetta’s
35
SAN BABILA / MONFORTE
Armani/Bamboo Bar
30
Da Giacomo
30
PORTA VENEZIA
Bar Basso
33
Mantra Raw Vegan
32
The Small Bistrot
33
25
On top of the Museo del Novecento, next to the Palazzo Reale and on Piazza Duomo.
The restaurant with the most iconic view of Milan has Art Deco-inspired interiors, with
red lacquering, inlaid walls and gold panelling. Great even just for a coffee or a drink
in the lounge or on the breath-taking terrace, between a catwalk and a vernissage. The
ideal place to dream, where the promise made is to let you “taste the atmospheres of
a long-lost epoch.”
Via Guglielmo Marconi 1. Tel. +39 02.72093814
www.giacomoarengario.com
LANGOSTERIA
Here’s where you can find the sea in Milan.
A high-quality menu offering absolute freshness,
where crustaceans, carpaccios and tartares
all spoil fish and pasta lovers for choice. But
Eating and drinking in Milan
G I AC O M O A R E N G A R I O
at Langosteria, every choice is divinely right.
The service is so perfectly Milanese and such a
thoroughly cosmopolitan atmosphere will stay
with you for a long time. Up until that day when
you come back. As well as its brother Bistrot,
the family also now lays claim to a Langosteria
café. A new format – light and contemporary – the
DNA of which is very much that of the original.
Morning, lunch, afternoon, aperitifs or dinner.
Langosteria Cafè Galleria del Corso 4 Tel. +39 02.76018167
Langosteria Savona via Savona 10 Tel. +39 02.58111649
Langosteria Bistrot via Privata Bobbio 2 Tel. +39 02.58107802
www.langosteria.com
26
R I S O E L AT T E
This little restaurant, a short way
away from the Castello Sforzesco
and the Duomo takes its name from
the ancient humble rice and milk
dish. All in 1950s Formica, washing
hanging out, crockery that might
have belonged to your grandmother,
bowls of apples in the centre of
the tables and coffee laced with a
range of spirits. An escape from
the contemporary world, from
minimalism and formality.
Via Manfredo Camperio 6
Tel. +39 02.39831040
T ’A
www.risoelatte.com
Drawing on the age-old family
tradition of fine pastry making,
Tancredi and Alberto Alemagna have
developed an innovative concept
that brings together in a single
space – refined and exquisitely
Milanese – the chocolate shop,
the aperitif bar and contemporary
dining. A stone’s throw from Palazzo
Clerici, a historic venue for many
Fashion Week events.
Via Clerici 1. Tel. +39 02.87386130
www.tamilano.com
LA BRISA
Run by Antonio and Francisca Facciolo with Piero Maranghi, La Brisa
excels in its simple yet tasty faire, with a seasonal menu which changes
every month, following the colours of the leaves of the trees in the garden
and thus offering ever new flavours to be discovered. Typical Lombard
recipes, fish and meat dishes, vegetarian food, not to mention
a memorable roast suckling pig.
Via Brisa 15. Tel. +39 02.86450521 www.ristorantelabrisa.it
27
TRUSSARDI
ALLA SCALA
The Trussardi family hit upon the
coupling of fashion and haute
cuisine long before it became
standard fare. Next to the Teatro
alla Scala, the Palazzo hosts the
starred restaurant in a room which is
bright during the day and yet cosy
in the evening. Meanwhile, on the
ground floor the Café offers quick
yet carefully concocted dishes. The
Lounge, designed as an American
bar, provides an excellent selection
of cocktails and cigars.
Piazza della Scala 5
Tel. +39 02.80688295
www.trussardiallascala.com
PA S T I C C E R I A M A R C H E S I
In 2024, we shall celebrate the 200th anniversary
of the pastry shop that symbolises Milanese
excellence, recently acquired by the Prada Group.
The chocolate and pralines are top class, but
after all it’s all so absolutely perfect that it’s well
worth falling in love remorselessly. In the new
spaces in via Monte Napoleone and in Galleria
Vittorio Emanuele II, an even broader selection
has been added of his well-known products,
cased in delightful packaging.
Via Santa Maria alla Porta 11/A
Tel. +39 02.862770
Via Monte Napoleone 9
Tel. +39 02.76008238
Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II
Tel. +39 02.94181710
www.pasticceriamarchesi.it
28
YO KO H A M A
Rosy Chin and her husband Paolo
are the living testimony to a cuisine
altering to reflect changes in the
anthropological fabric. They are a
perfect fusion just like the dishes
they propose. The traditional
Japanese dishes are excellent,
but the best thing is to take their
advice: the roll compositions are
heavenly, as are the seared tuna
and salmon coupled with a range of
Mediterranean-Japanese sauces.
Self-proclaimedly “a little embassy
Tel. +39 02.874291
of Peruvian culture and flavours
www.sushiyokohama.it
with Asiatic influences,” Pacifico
is a new joint split into various
different areas: the dining hall, the
Pisco Bar and an open-air space;
on request, you may also book
exclusive use of the Submarine
Room. The cocktails to accompany
the various kinds of ceviche must
be tried, along with the highly
original dim sum.
Via San Marco angolo Via Moscova
Tel. +39 02.87244737
www.wearepacifico.it
Eating and drinking in Milan
Via Maurizio Gonzaga 4
PAC I F I C O
P I S AC C O
A contemporary bistro, which by underlining the sense of ‘Welcome!’ in
its hospitality, in only a few years has made a name for itself as a leader
on the Milanese panorama. Pisacco’s cooking is a choice based on
fundamentals: fresh and essential dishes revolving around the excellence
of the ingredients. The name overseeing the range of proposals, which
also includes a series of small, quick and light dishes, is the starred chef
Andrea Berton.
Via Solferino 48
Tel. +39 02.91765472
www.pisacco.it
29
RADETZKY
Milano is still happy hour land as ever. Radetzky, open since the 1980s, offers a bevy of
good-looking lads and lasses who frequent the now historical bar a stone’s throw from the
Moscova metro stop from the aperitif onwards, but it also draws the crowds for its fine
food and the shop offering a selection of Italian caviar and foie gras.
Corso Garibaldi 105. Tel. +39 02.6572645
www.radetzky.it
ARMANI /
BAMBOO BAR
Feel on top of the world surrounded
by minimalist design, with a view
sunset over the Lombard Alps.
For lunch, dinner or later, for a
signature cocktail or delicious club
sandwich even late into the evening.
The Armani/Bamboo bar is on the
seventh floor of the Armani Hotel:
the perfect position if you are on
the lookout for a breather between
fashion shows and shopping.
Via Manzoni 31. Tel. +39 02.88838888
www.armanihotels.com
DA G I AC O M O
Eating and drinking in Milan
across the Milanese skyline and
Two options. Two different but parallel stories.
One is a restaurant and one is a bistro. An
inter national environment and celebrity guests.
An atmosphere from another era, and truly
fantastic dishes, such as the spaghetti with
sea urchins or truffles, porcini or just about
anything else that makes people fall in
love with Italy.
Via Pasquale Sottocorno 6
Da Giacomo Tel. +39 02.76023313
www.giacomoristorante.com
Da Giacomo Bistrot Tel. +39 02.76022653
www.giacomobistrot.com
30
D RY
mixology ranges from the “Vintage & Forgotten Cocktails” such as the
Corpse Reviver #2 made famous by the London Savoy, and the Martinez,
known as the predecessor of Martini, to other evolved classics. The pizza
is classically Neapolitan, small, and with just the right balance between
crunchy and soft. Beautiful interiors, with a wonderful programme of video
art which brings the walls to life.
Via Solferino 33. Tel. +39 02.63793414
www.drymilano.it
MANDARIN
O R I E N TA L
Global 21st-century luxury finds
its home at the Mandarin Oriental
Milano. Satisfy your need for a
Eating and drinking in Milan
Dry is a leader in the preparation of pizzas and cocktails. The sublime
little spa time, Oriental grace and
a glamourous aperitif. For a private
reception or a sophisticated dinner,
with the choice between two
eateries: Seta, a gourmet restaurant
boasting a Michelin star, and the
Mandarin Bar & Bistrot, a more
informal location, which in next to
no time has become the meeting
place of choice for the Fashion
Week crowd.
Via Andegari 9. Tel. +39 02.87318888
www.mandarinoriental.com
31
M A N T R A R AW V E G A N
approach which is fostering a new level of awareness on a global level. Here
in Milan, the temple of this creed is Mantra Raw Vegan, which offers 100%
organic food and an approach which may be summed up in their payoff:
“The restaurant that doesn’t cook anything!” It goes without saying that the
aesthetics of the space are somewhat essential.
Via Panfilo Castaldi 21. Tel. +39 02.89058575
http://www.mantrarawvegan.com
BAR LUCE
Eating and drinking in Milan
The raw diet is not just a passing fad, but a both holistic and scientific
Wes Anderson created a real
movie set for the café of the
Fondazione Prada. Drawing on
the Italian popular tradition of the
‘50s and ‘60s, the director wanted
to recreate the style of ‘Miracle
in Milan’, in which Neo-Realism
and Pop culture go hand in hand.
The sweets are produced by the
Pasticceria Marchesi.
Largo Isarco 2
Tel. +39 02.56662611
www.fondazioneprada.org/barluce
32
BAR BASSO
Here we are in the all-time hall of
fame. The bar which best describes
the very essence of Milan of today
and yesteryear. Among the 500
possible cocktails, you haven’t
Mirko Stocchetti’s historic Rossini,
or the Negroni Sbagliato®. Forever
and ever Milano.
Via Plinio 39
Tel. +39 02.29400580
www.barbasso.com
THE SMALL
B I S T R OT
Essentially Italian cooking with
variations on the theme of
Mediterranean land and seafood,
with a menu which strictly adheres
Eating and drinking in Milan
done Milan if you haven’t tried
to what the season has to offer.
The cakes are to die for, and the
setting is a real gem. Hosting art
installations, the owner and bag
designer Giancarlo Patriglia has
made his dream come true here,
creating a space in which art and
fashion may come together in every
possible expression.
Via Niccolò Paganini 3
Tel. +39 02.20240943
www.thesmall.it
33
ENRICO BARTOLINI AL MUDEC
One of the most soberly welcoming spaces in town, inside the Museo delle
Culture, which has enhanced Milan only since last year. The choice made
by the chef in the gourmet restaurant and in the neighbouring bistro is
an ambitious one: Enrico Bartolini (two Michelin stars) and his team have
developed a light lunch formula with a tasting itinerary which always unfolds
around the choice of one key seasonal element.
Via Tortona 56
Ristorante Tel. +39 02.84293701
Bistrot Tel. +39 02.84293706
www.enricobartolini.net
P O TA F I O R I
At breakfast you can enjoy the
preparation of fresh flowers just in,
while in the evening, in front of a
glass of wine and a dish created by
the cook Giorgio Bresciani, if she’s
in the mood, you might happen to
hear Rosalba sing. For in her third
flower and plant shop, the now
renowned singing florist decided to
include a kitchen.
Via Salasco 17
Tel. +39 02.87065930
www.potafiori.com
E L I TA B A R
These are the guys that get the
city dancing with the Elita Festival.
The cocktails are really something,
and the kitchen prepares quick,
simple and very tasty dishes. A
youthful, pro-positive and creative
environment. Unmissable if you want
to get off the beaten track and have
a wander around the Navigli.
Via Corsico 5. Tel. +39 02.36798710
34
T H E B O TA N I C A L
CLUB
After the success of the speakeasy in Via
Pastrengo, the guys from the Botanical opened a
nice big, chic and metropolitan establishment in
Via Tortona. The first micro gin distillery in Milan
contributes to making this a very special place,
popular among young hipsters, managers and
design freaks. Lunch and dinner always have a
surprise in store. A good place in which to get to
know the new faces of creative Milan.
Via Tortona 33. Tel. +39 02.4232890
www.thebotanicalclub.com
CERESIO 7
An outright oasis of cosmopolitan
elegance. With a swimming pool on
the terrace of the ex-Enel building
and view over the new Milan.
This might sound enough to want
to go there, but the interiors are
designed with modernist grace and
the aperitif is a genuine treat. The
lunch foresees a range of light, fresh
dishes. If it’s dinner, you will need to
try and book in advance.
Via Ceresio 7. Tel. +39 02.31039221
www.ceresio7.com
M I C H E T TA’ S
“It isn’t Michetta if it doesn’t
crumble…” The most historical
panino in Milan at the height of its
splendour in a welcoming venue,
opened just one month ago,
where the cocktails are also very
tempting. The sweet michettas for
breakfast are there for the tasting.
Via Ambrogio Campiglio 13
Tel. +39 02.45478564
35
WELLNESS
M A N D A R I N O R I E N TA L S P A
With its 900 square metres, situated in midst of the fashion district, entirely given over
to the wellbeing of body and mind, with an approach of a holistic nature, in a scenario
that encourages meditation and tranquillity. A complete menu of relaxing and antiageing treatments is available as well as spa therapies, customised by specialists in
traditional Chinese medicine and aromatherapists.
Via Andegari 9. Tel. +39 02.87318888
www.mandarinoriental.com/milan/luxury-spa
36
S H I S E I D O S PA
The exclusive Shiseido Qi
technique, created in 1986,
focuses on the flow of the
meridians and on the stimulation
of the tsubo pressure points to
restore vital energy and induce
a profound state of relaxation.
Combined with Shiseido face and
body products and with the typical
hot Japanese towels known as
‘oshibori’, the experience at the
Shiseido Spa at the Hotel Excelsior
Gallia easily becomes a mystical
one to say the least.
Piazza Duca D’Aosta 9
Tel. +39 02.67853320
www.shiseidospamilan.com/it
AMORE
E PSICHE
Inside Chateau Monfort, the
luxurious fairy-tale castle/hotel
a stone’s throw from San Babila,
the new ‘Amore e Psiche’ spa
centre may be found. A pool with
salt water, a sauna, Turkish bath,
caldarium, aromatic sensory
showers, an ice fountain and
relax area may also be booked
exclusively. An absolute must is
the imperial ritual with black soap,
a savonage originating from the
Moroccan hammams designed to
purify body and soul.
Corso Concordia 1
Tel. +39 02.776761
www.hotelchateaumonfort.com/
spa-amore-psiche
37
BO SC OLO
B E N E S S E R E E S PA
A temple of wellness just behind
the Duomo, the spa of the Boscolo
Hotel was created by the architect
Simone Micheli. Designed to foster
a sense of harmony between guests
and their surroundings, a 15-metre
screen with images and sounds
encourages relaxation; the spheres
embedded in the walls reflect
the light blue of the swimming
pool, favouring the correct
optical aperture. Ergonomics and
aesthetics come together here,
drawing in all the senses.
Corso Matteotti 4/6
www.milano.boscolohotels.com/it/
benessere-spa-milano
Wellness
Tel. +39 02.77679650
T H E B U LG A R I S PA
An oasis in the heart of the city,
where ancient philosophies come
face to face with the beauty of a
moder n architecture. The daylight
filtered through the glass walls
illuminates the mint-gold tiles of
the pool. The sauna and outdoor
Jacuzzi allow guests to enjoy
customised treatments in a unique
space. As well as four private
rooms, there is also an exclusive
suite for couples.
Via Privata Fratelli Gabba 7b
Tel. +39 02.805805200
www.bulgarihotels.com/en_US/milan/
spa-and-fitness/the-bulgari-spa
38
Wellness
A R M A N I / S PA
With one of the most spectacular views over the city, the spa inside the
Hotel Armani offers guests a choice of three philosophies of treatment,
carefully designed on the basis of natural products. Mu, to satisfy the
desire for rest and relaxation; Libertà, to promote movement and the
release of physical tension, and Fluidità, to improve vitality, re-balancing
inner harmony.
Via Manzoni 31
Tel. +39 02.88838860
www.milan.armanihotels.com/spa-it
39
ILLY ART COLLECTION
EMILIO PUCCI
Dall’incontro di due eccellenze italiane, la maison Emilio Pucci e illy,
nasce la nuova illy Art Collection: in edizione firmata e numerata,
si ispira a "Cities of the World", opera del nobile artista fiorentino.
Scopri di più su illy.com
AW17 MILAN FASHION WEEK
M·A·C MAKEUP SPONSOR UFFICIALE DELLA MILAN FASHION WEEK
#MFW #MACBACKSTAGE
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NELLA FOTO, UN MODELLO COUTURE DI CURIEL
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Entra nel vivo il progetto di rilancio legato alla
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A febbraio toccherà al palazzetto di Shanghai,
costato 3 milioni di dollari. Ed entro fine anno
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n piano di sviluppo sull’asse MilanoShanghai, che nei primi mesi del 2017
entrerà nel vivo. È infatti fissata a Milano,
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esattamente a Shanghai, fervono i preparativi per
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previsto per la metà di febbraio, all’interno di
continua a pag. II
Versace, tutto in famiglia
Lands’ end, Jerome Griffith sarà ceo
Cambio di rotta in casa Versace. La griffe della Medusa
avrebbe infatti chiesto ai consiglieri indipendenti di lasciare
il cda per mantenere al suo interno soltanto i soci, ovvero la
famiglia Versace, che con Givi Holding detiene quasi l’80%
del capitale, il fondo Blackstone (20%) e l’ad Jonathan
Akeroyd. La decisione, non commentata dai vertici
dell’azienda, vedrebbe in pole position Donatella Versace,
Allegra Beck-Versace e Santo Versace e allo stesso tempo
allontanerebbe l’idea della quotazione, pianificata entro il
2017, per la maison da 645 milioni di euro di ricavi.
Lands’ end ha scelto Jerome Griffith come suo nuovo ceo. Griffith prenderà il posto degli amministratori delegati ad interim Joseph Boitano e James Gooch, che avevano a loro
volta sostituito Federica Marchionni uscita dal gruppo lo scorso settembre. Il manager, in
arrivo da Tumi holdings dove ricopriva la funzione di ceo e con un passato da Holdings limited, Tommy Hilfiger, J. Peterman company e Gap, assumerà il nuovo incarico a partire
dal 6 marzo 2017. Con l’arrivo di Griffith, Boitano assumerà i ruoli di executive vice president, chief merchandising e design officer, mentre Gooch sarà executive vice president
e chief operating e financial officer & treasurer. Il gruppo ha registrato nel primo quarter
dell’esercizio corrente, chiuso lo scorso 28 ottobre, un calo dei ricavi netti del 6,9% toccando i 311,5 milioni di dollari (circa 298,1 milioni di euro al cambio di ieri).
MFF
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Donatella Versace con
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