Rome 7 - Contents (Chapter)

Transcript

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Rome
“ All you’ve got to do is decide to go
and the hardest part is over.
So go!”
TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET
“ All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over.
So go!”
TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Duncan Garwood, Abigail Hole
00-toc-rom7.indd 1
14/10/2011 1:43:27 PM
Contents
Plan
PlanYour
YourTrip
Trip
page
1
4
Welcome to Rome ............ 4
If You Like... ..................... 20
Rome’s Top 13................... 6
Month by Month ............. 23
Drinking & Nightlife.....38
What’s New ......................15
With Kids ......................... 26
Entertainment ..............43
Need to Know ..................16
Like a Local ..................... 28
Shopping ........................49
Top Itineraries .................18
For Free ........................... 29
Eating ..............................31
52
Explore Rome
Monti, Esquilino
& San Lorenzo .............. 126
Vatican City, Borgo
& Prati ............................ 182
Ancient Rome ................ 56
San Giovanni
to Testaccio ...................147
Villa Borghese
& Northern Rome .........205
Centro Storico ................ 73
Southern Rome ............ 158
Tridente, Trevi
& the Quirinale .............. 103
Trastevere
& Gianicolo .................... 169
Day Trips
from Rome ...................219
Neighbourhoods
at a Glance .................... 54
Understand Rome
249
Rome Today ..................250
The Arts.........................266
History ........................... 252
Architecture ..................280
Survival Guide
Language .......................316
Directory A–Z ............... 307
Index ..............................328
00-toc-rom7.indd 2
The Roman
Way of Life .....................295
299
Transport ..................... 300
Rome Maps
Sleeping ...................... 236
337
14/10/2011 1:43:34 PM
SEAN CAFFREY / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©
RICHARD I’ANSON / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©
Above: Pantheon (p75)
Right: Basilica di Santa
Maria in Trastevere
(p171)
RUSSELL MOUNTFORD / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©
Left: Spanish Steps
(p105)
Villa Borghese &
Northern Rome
p205
Vatican City,
Borgo & Prati
p182
Tridente, Trevi &
the Quirinale
p103
Centro
Monti, Esquilino &
Storico
San Lorenzo
p73
p126
Ancient
Rome
p56
Trastevere &
Gianicolo
p169
San Giovanni
to Testaccio
p147
Southern
Rome
p158
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JEAN-PIERRE LESCOURRET / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©
52
Explore
Rome
Neighbourhoods at a
Glance . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
Ancient Rome . . . . . . . 56
Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .68
Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72
Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . . 72
Centro Storico . . . . . . 73
Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75
Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78
Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .89
Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . .95
Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . .98
Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .98
Tridente, Trevi &
the Quirinale . . . . . . . 103
Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105
Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107
Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115
Drinking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .120
Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 121
Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122
Monti, Esquilino &
San Lorenzo . . . . . . . 126
Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128
Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131
Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135
Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 141
Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 145
Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145
15-explore-rom7.indd 52
San Giovanni
to Testaccio . . . . . . . . 147
Villa Borghese &
Northern Rome . . . . .205
Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149
Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151
Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154
Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157
Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207
Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212
Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215
Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 217
Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217
Southern Rome. . . . . 158
Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160
Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161
Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165
Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 168
Trastevere &
Gianicolo . . . . . . . . . . 169
Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .171
Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172
Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174
Entertainment . . . . . . . . . .180
Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181
Day Trips
from Rome . . . . . . . . . 219
Ostia Antica. . . . . . . . . . . . 220
Tivoli . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221
Castelli Romani . . . . . . . . .223
Cerveteri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .225
Viterbo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .229
Orvieto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .232
Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . .236
Vatican City,
Borgo & Prati. . . . . . . 182
Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184
Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200
Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .201
Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . 203
Entertainment . . . . . . . . . 204
Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204
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53
ROME’S
TOP SIGHTS
Colosseum.........................58
Palatino ............................. 60
Roman Forum ...................63
Capitoline Museums ........67
Pantheon............................75
Piazza Navona...................77
Piazza di Spagna &
the Spanish Steps...........105
Chiesa di Santa Maria
del Popolo ........................106
Museo Nazionale Romano:
Palazzo Massimo alle
Terme ...............................128
Basilica di Santa Maria
Maggiore ..........................129
Basilica di San Pietro
in Vincoli ...........................130
Basilica di San Giovanni in
Laterano...........................149
Via Appia Antica ..............160
in Trastevere .....................171
St Peter’s Basilica ...........184
Vatican Museums ...........189
Museo e Galleria
Borghese......................... 207
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3 37
Rome
Maps
RomeMaps
Map Legend
Sports & Activities
Sights
Beach
Buddhist
Castle
Christian
Hindu
Islamic
Jewish
Monument
Museum/Gallery
Ruin
Winery/Vineyard
Zoo
Other Sight
Eating
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Drinking & Nightlife
Cafe
Entertainment
Entertainment
Shopping
Shopping
Sleeping
Sleeping
Camping
40-map-section-rom7.indd 337
Diving/Snorkelling
Canoeing/Kayaking
Skiing
Surfing
Swimming/Pool
Walking
Windsurfing
Other Sports &
Activities
Information
Post Office
Tourist Information
Transport
Airport
Border Crossing
Bus
Cable Car/
Funicular
Cycling
Ferry
Metro
Monorail
Parking
S-Bahn
Taxi
Train/Railway
Tram
Tube Station
U-Bahn
Other Transport
Routes
Geographic
Tollway
Hut/Shelter
Lighthouse
Lookout
Mountain/Volcano
Oasis
Park
Pass
Picnic Area
Waterfall
Freeway
Primary
Secondary
Tertiary
Lane
Unsealed Road
Plaza/Mall
Steps
Hydrography
River/Creek
Intermittent River
Swamp/Mangrove
Reef
Canal
Water
Dry/Salt/
Intermittent Lake
Glacier
Tunnel
Pedestrian
Overpass
Walking Tour
Walking Tour
Detour
Path
Boundaries
International
State/Province
Disputed
Regional/Suburb
Marine Park
Cliff
Wall
Areas
Beach/Desert
Cemetery
(Christian)
Cemetery (Other)
Park/Forest
Sportsground
Sight (Building)
Top Sight
(Building)
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338
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r Riv
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e
# 0
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Parco
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2 km
1 mile
TRIESTE
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PARIOLI
NOMENTANO
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6
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VATICAN CITY
(CITTÀ DEL
VATICANO)
PONTE
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Ð
10
SANT'EUSTACHIO
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SANT'ANGELO
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Isola
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APPIO
PIGNATELLI
PORTUENSE
MAP INDEX
1 San Lorenzo (p339)
2 Monti & Esquilino (p340)
4 Centro Storico
North (p346)
7 San Giovanni
to Testaccio (p356)
10 Vatican City, Borgo &
Prati (p364)
5 Centro Storico
South (p350)
8 Southern Rome & Appia
Antica (p358)
11 Villa Borghese &
Northern Rome (p366)
6 Tridente, Trevi & the
Quirinale (p352)
9 Trastevere &
Gianicolo (p360)
RomeMaps/:VticnCy,Borg&Pa
RomeMaps/:nti,Equlo
3 Ancient Rome (p344)
RomeMaps/:AncitRome
RomeMaps/:Tridnt,v&heQual
RomeMaps/:SuthrnRome&Apiac
RomeMaps/:VilBrghe&NotnRm
RomeMaps/:Trtv&Gincol
14/10/2011 2:51:41 PM
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TUSCOLANO
C
D
æ Sights
(p134) û Drinking & Nightlife
(p143)
1 Basilica di San Lorenzo fuori le Mura....... C1
16 Arco degli Aurunci...................................... B2
2 Chiesa di Santa Croce in Gerusalemme..B4
17 Circolo degli Artisti..................................... D4
3 Cimitero di Campo Verano........................ D1
18 Dimmidisí......................................................C1
4 Museo Storico della Liberazione ..............A4
19 Esc Atelier Occupato ..................................C1
5 National Museum of Musical
20 Il Tiaso.......................................................... D4
Instruments ..............................................B4
21 Locanda Atlantide ...................................... B3
6 Pastificio Cerere ......................................... C1
22 Max's Bar..................................................... B3
7 Porta Maggiore ...........................................B3
23 Micca Club................................................... A3
24 Solea Club ................................................... B2
ú Eating
(p140)
25 Vini e Olii ...................................................... D4
8 Formula Uno................................................B2
9 Palazzo del Freddo do Giovanni Fassi .....A3 ý Entertainment
(p145)
Pastificio San Lorenzo ....................... (see 6)
26 Instituzione Universitaria dei Concerti.....B1
10 Pigneto Quarantuno ...................................D4
27 Nuovo Cinema Aquila ................................ D4
11 Pommidoro..................................................B2
28 Teatro Ambra Jovinelli............................... A2
12 Primo ............................................................D4
13 Said............................................................... B1 þ Shopping
(p146)
14 Sushiko......................................................... B1
29 Claudio Sanó............................................... B2
15 Tram Tram...................................................C2
30 Iosselliani..................................................... D4
31 La Grande Officina ..................................... B2
14/10/2011 2:51:41 PM
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44
8
7
6
5
341
rto
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14/10/2011 2:51:42 PM
æ Top Sights
(p128)
13 Palazzo delle Esposizioni............... B4
Bar Zest ..................................(see 78) ÿ Sleeping
(p243)
Basilica di San Pietro in
14 Piazza della Repubblica ................. D3
37 Bohemien ........................................ B6
60 66 Imperial Inn.................................C4
Vincoli............................................ C7
15 Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II ........... G7
38 Castroni ........................................... B4
61 Aberdeen Hotel................................C2
16 Trofei di Mario ................................. G7
39 Druid's Den .......................................E6
62 Albergo Giusti .................................. F8
Maggiore ....................................... D5
17 Villa Aldobrandini.............................A5
40 Fiddler's Elbow................................ D6
63 Alessandro Palace Hostel ..............G2
Museo Nazionale Romano:
41 Finnegans .........................................B7
64 Associazione Italiana Alberghi
Palazzo Massimo alle
ú Eating
(p135)
42 Hangar.............................................. D6
per la Gioventù..............................C2
Terme .............................................E3
18 Agata e Romeo.................................E6
43 Ice Club .............................................A7
65 Beehive .............................................G2
19 Ciuri Ciuri ........................................ B6
44 La Barrique .......................................B5
66 Carlito's Way .................................... G1
æ Sights
(p131) 20 Da Danilo.......................................... G8
45 La Bottega del Caffè....................... B6
67 Hotel & Hostel des Artistes............ G1
1 Aula Ottagona ................................. D2
21 Da Ricci ............................................ B4
68 Hotel Artorius...................................A5
2 Chiesa di San Martino ai
22 Da Valentino .....................................A5 ý Entertainment
(p145)
69 Hotel Cervia......................................G2
Monti.............................................. D7
23 Doozo ............................................... B5
46 Charity Café .....................................B5
70 Hotel Columbia ................................D3
3 Chiesa di San Paolo entro le
24 Indian Fast Food ............................. G6
47 Teatro dell'Opera di Roma ............ C3
71 Hotel Dolomiti .................................. G1
Mura .............................................. C3
25 La Carbonara................................... B6
48 Warner Village Moderno................ D3
72 Hotel Duca d'Alba............................B6
4 Chiesa di Santa Lucia in Selci ....... D7
26 L'Asino d'Oro................................... B5
73 Hotel Giuliana...................................D4
5 Chiesa di Santa Maria degli
27 Nuovo Mercato Esquilino .............. G7 þ Shopping
(p145)
74 Hotel Oceania...................................C2
Angeli............................................. D2
28 Open Colonna.................................. A4
49 Abito ................................................. B6
75 Hotel Reservation Service.............. F4
6 Chiesa di Santa Prassede...............E6
29 Panella I'Arte del Pane ....................E7
50 Bookàbar ......................................... B4
Hotel Restivo..........................(see 69)
7 Chiesa di Santa Pudenziana.......... C5
30 Roscioli.............................................. F7
51 Creje ..................................................B5
76 Nicolas Inn........................................A7
8 Chiesa di Sant'Eusebio ...................F6
31 Sweety Rome .................................. B5
52 Fabio Piccioni .................................. B6
77 Papa Germano ..................................E1
9 Domus Aurea................................... C8
32 Trattoria Monti.................................E6
53 Fausto Santini Outlet ......................D5
78 Radisson Blu ................................... G6
10 Enjoy Rome...................................... G2
33 Trimani .............................................. E1
54 Feltrinelli International................... C2
79 Residenza Cellini .............................C3
Fontana delle Naiadi.............. (see 14) 34 Urbana 47 ........................................ C6
55 I Vetri di Passagrilli ......................... B6
Target Inn ............................... (see 79)
11 Museo Nazionale d'Arte
56 La Bottega del Cioccolato ..............B7
80 Villa Spalletti Trivelli........................A4
Orientale ........................................E7 û Drinking & Nightlife
(p141)
57 MAS ...................................................F6
81 Welrome Hotel..................................E1
12 Museo Nazionale Romano:
35 Ai Tre Scalini.................................... B6
58 Mel Bookstore................................. C3
82 Yellow................................................G2
Terme di Diocleziano....................E2
36 Al Vino al Vino.................................. A6
59 Perlei .................................................A5
MONTI & ESQUILINO Map on p340
MONTI & ESQUILINO
342
14/10/2011 2:51:43 PM
æ Sights
(p68)
1 Arco di Costantino...........................F6
2 Arco di Giano ................................... B6
3 Arco di Settimio Severo ................. C4
4 Arco di Tito .......................................E5
5 Basilica di Massenzio ......................E5
6 Basilica di San Marco ..................... A2
7 Basilica di SS Cosma e Damiano.. D4
8 Basilica Fulvia Aemilia ................... D4
9 Basilica Giulia .................................. C4
10 Basilica Ulpia ................................... C2
11 Bocca della Verità............................A7
12 Capanee Romulee .......................... C6
13 Carcere Mamertino ........................ C3
14 Casa delle Vestali............................ D5
15 Casa di Augusto .............................. C6
æ Top Sights
(p58)
Capitoline Museums (Palazzo dei
Conservatori) ............................... B3
Capitoline Museums (Palazzo
Nuovo)........................................... B3
Colosseum....................................... G6
Imperial Forums.............................. C2
Palatino (Palatine hill) .................... D6
Roman Forum ................................. C4
32
31
30
28
29
27
26
25
23
24
22
21
20
19
18
57 Tempio di Saturno...........................C4
58 Tempio di Vespasiano ....................C4
59 Tempio di Vesta...............................D5
60 Terme di Settimio Severo ..............E8
Lupercale ................................(see 26)
Fori Imperiali ................................. C1
37 Millarium Aureum ........................... C4
53
52
51
49
50
48
47
46
44
45
43
42
41
40
39
61 Torre delle Milizie ............................ D1
Risorgimento.................................B2
62 Vigna Barberini ................................E6
Museo Nazionale del Palazzo
Venezia........................................... A1 ú Eating
(p72)
Museo Palatino ................................D7
63 Ara Coeli ...........................................A2
Orti Farnesiani................................. C6 64 Hostaria da Nerone ........................ G4
Palazzo Senatorio............................B3
65 San Teodoro.....................................B5
Palazzo Venezia............................... A1
Piazza del Campidoglio...................B3 û Drinking & Nightlife
(p72)
Portico degli Dei Consenti............. C4
66 0,75 ...................................................C7
Roma dal Cielo .................................B2
67 Caffè Capitolino ...............................B4
Rostrum ........................................... C4
68 Cavour 313 ....................................... E3
Stadio ............................................... D8
Statue of Marcus Aurelius....(see 44) ÿ Sleeping
(p240)
Tabularium ...................................... B4
69 Caesar House................................... E3
Tempio della Concordia................. C4
70 Forty Seven ......................................A6
Tempio di Antonino e Faustina..... D4
71 Hotel Forum .....................................D3
Tempio di Castore e Polluce ......... C4
72 Hotel Nerva ......................................D2
Tempio di Ercole Vincitore .............A6
38 Museo Centrale del
36 Mercati di Traiano Museo dei
56 Tempio di Romolo ...........................D4
55 Tempio di Portunus.........................A6
54 Tempio di Giulio Cesare .................D4
35 Lapis Niger....................................... C4
17 Centro Espositivo
Informativo ....................................E4
Chiesa di San Giorgio in
Velabro.......................................... B6
Chiesa di San Lorenzo in
Miranda ................................ (see 51)
Chiesa di Santa Maria
Antiqua.......................................... C5
Chiesa di Santa Maria in
Aracoeli ......................................... B3
Chiesa di Santa Maria in
Cosmedin..............................(see 11)
Circo Massimo ................................ C8
Colonna di Foca .............................. C4
Colonna di Traiano ......................... C2
Criptoportico................................... D6
Curia ................................................. C4
Domus Augustana .......................... D7
Domus Flavia................................... D6
Domus Severiana ................. (see 60)
Foro di Augusto............................... D2
Foro di Cesare ................................. C3
Foro di Nerva ................................... D3
Foro di Traiano ................................ C2
Foro di Vespasiano ......................... D3
33 Forum Boarium................................A7
34 II Vittoriano.......................................B2
16 Casa di Livia..................................... C6
ANCIENT ROME
ANCIENT ROME Map on p344
343
14/10/2011 2:51:43 PM
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14/10/2011 2:51:45 PM
348
CENTRO STORICO NORTH Map on p346
æ Top Sights
(p75)
Chiesa del Gesù ......................................... G6
Chiesa di San Luigi dei Francesi ...............E4
Museo Nazionale Romano: Palazzo
Altemps..................................................... E3
Palazzo e Galleria Doria Pamphilj.............H5
Pantheon...................................................... F4
Piazza Navona.............................................E4
32 Palazzo di Montecitorio............................. G3
33 Palazzo Farnese ......................................... C7
34 Palazzo Madama ........................................ E4
35 Palazzo Nardini........................................... C4
36 Palazzo Pamphilj ........................................ D5
37 Palazzo Spada ............................................ D7
38 Pasquino...................................................... D5
39 Piè di Marmo ............................................... G5
40 Stadio di Domiziano ................................... D3
æ Sights
(p78)
41 Tempio di Adriano......................................G4
1 Arco degli Acetari .......................................D6
42 Torre dell'Orologio ..................................... C4
2 Arco Farnese ...............................................C7
3 Area Sacra ................................................... F6 ú Eating
(p89)
Basilica di San Lorenzo in Damaso (see 30) 43 Alfredo e Ada .............................................. B4
4 Campo de' Fiori ...........................................D6
44 Antico Forno Roscioli..................................E7
5 Cat Sanctuary ............................................. F7
45 Armando Al Pantheon ............................... F4
6 Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista dei
46 Baffetto 2..................................................... D6
Fiorentini...................................................A4
47 Campana ..................................................... E2
7 Chiesa di San Lorenzo in Lucina............... G1
Campo de' Fiori....................................(see 4)
8 Chiesa di Santa Maria della Pace &
48 Casa Bleve................................................... E5
Chiostro del Bramante............................D4 49 Casa Coppelle ..............................................F3
9 Chiesa di Santa Maria Sopra Minerva......G5
Chiostro del Bramante Caffè.............(see 8)
10 Chiesa di Sant'Agnese in Agone ...............D4
50 Cul de Sac.................................................... D5
11 Chiesa di Sant'Agostino............................. E3
51 Da Francesco .............................................. C4
12 Chiesa di Sant'Andrea della Valle.............E6
52 Da Tonino .................................................... C4
13 Chiesa di Sant'Eligio degli Orefici .............B6
53 Ditirambo..................................................... D6
14 Chiesa di Sant'Ignazio di Loyola .............. H4
54 Enoteca Corsi..............................................G6
15 Chiesa di Sant'lvo alla Sapienza ............... E5
55 Filetti di Baccalà ..........................................E7
16 Chiesa Nuova ..............................................C4
56 Fiocco di Neve............................................. F4
17 Colonna di Marco Aurelio ......................... H3
57 Forno di Campo de' Fiori ........................... D6
18 Elefantino..................................................... F5
58 Gelateria del Teatro ................................... C3
19 Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi.........................E4
59 Gelateria Giolitti...........................................F3
20 Fontana del Moro........................................ E5
60 Gino .............................................................. G2
21 Fontana del Nettuno...................................E4
61 Grappolo d'Oro ........................................... D6
Galleria Spada ................................... (see 37)
62 Green T ........................................................ G5
22 Largo di Torre Argentina ........................... F6
63 II Bacaro........................................................F3
23 Museo Barracco di Scultura Antica .........D6
64 La Cantina di Ninco Nanco........................ F4
24 Museo Criminologico .................................B5
65 La Focaccia ................................................. D4
25 Museo di Roma ...........................................D5
66 La Rosetta ................................................... F4
26 Museo Nazionale Romano: Crypta
67 Les Affiches................................................. D5
Balbi...........................................................G7 68 Lilli ................................................................ D3
27 Obelisk..........................................................G3
69 Lo Zozzone.................................................. D4
28 Oratorio dei Filippini ...................................C4
70 Maccheroni ..................................................F3
29 Palazzo Chigi .............................................. H3
71 Matricianella.................................................G1
30 Palazzo della Cancelleria ...........................D5
72 Obikà .............................................................F2
31 Palazzo della Sapienza............................... E5
73 Obikà ............................................................ D6
14/10/2011 2:51:45 PM
349
74 Osteria Ar Galletto ......................................D6
113 Bertè............................................................. E5
75 Osteria dell'Ingegno .................................. G4
114 Casali............................................................ B3
76 Osteria Sostegno ........................................ F4
115 Città del Sole............................................... E3
77 Pizzeria al Leoncino.................................... G1
116 Comics Bazar.............................................. B5
117 Confetteria Moriondo & Gariglio .............. G5
118 Cuadros Roma............................................ C4
119 DaDADA....................................................... D7
81 Ristorante Settimio .................................... F4
120 Davide Cenci ................................................F3
82 Roman Kitchen............................................H5
121 De Sanctis ...................................................G4
83 San Crispino ................................................ F4
122 Feltrinelli ...................................................... F6
84 Sergio alla Grotte........................................D7
123 Ghezzi .......................................................... F6
85 Zazà ..............................................................E4
124 Ibiz - Artigianato in Cuoio ...........................E7
125 Le Tele di Carlotta ...................................... D3
û Drinking & Nightlife
(p95) 126
86 Bar della Pace..............................................D4 127
87 Barnum Cafe ...............................................C5 128
88 Caffè Farnese ..............................................D6 129
89 Caffè Sant'Eustachio.................................. F5 130
90 Caffè Tazza d'Oro ...................................... G4 131
91 Ciampini ....................................................... G1
92 Circus ...........................................................C4 132
93 Etablì.............................................................C4 133
94 Femme .........................................................D6 134
95 Gran Caffè la Caffettiera........................... H4 135
96 II Goccetto ...................................................B5 136
97 La Maison.....................................................D4 137
98 L'Angolo Divino ...........................................D7 138
99 Salotto 42 ................................................... G4 139
100 Vineria Reggio .............................................D6 140
Libreria del Viaggiatore ............................. C6
Loco.............................................................. D6
Luna & L'Altra ............................................. D5
Mondello Ottica .......................................... C5
Nardecchia .................................................. D4
Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di
Santa Maria Novella ................................ E4
Omeri & Cecilia ........................................... C5
Posto Italiano ...............................................E7
Rachele ........................................................ D6
Retrò ............................................................ C4
Sciù Scià .......................................................F5
Spazio Sette.................................................F7
Statuaria – Arte Sacra................................F5
Stilo Fetti .....................................................G4
Tartarughe .................................................. G5
141 Tempi Moderni ........................................... C5
142 Vestiti Usati Cinzia ..................................... C5
143 ZouZou......................................................... D5
78 Pizzeria da Baffetto ....................................C5
79 Pizzeria la Montecarlo................................D5
80 Renato e Luisa............................................. F6
ý Entertainment
(p98)
101 English Theatre of Rome at Teatro
L'Arciliuto..................................................D4
102 Teatro Argentina......................................... F6 ÿ Sleeping
(p240)
103 Teatro dell'Orologio....................................C4 144 Albergo Abruzzi .......................................... F4
104 Teatro Valle ................................................. E5 145 Albergo del Sole.......................................... E6
146 Argentina Residenza.................................. F6
þ Shopping
(p98) 147 Casa di Santa Brigida................................. C6
105 Ai Monasteri ................................................ E3 148 Hotel Campo de' Fiori ................................ D6
106 Al Sogno ....................................................... E3 149 Hotel Due Torri ........................................... E2
107 Alberta Gloves............................................ G6 150 Hotel Mimosa...............................................F5
108 Aldo Fefè ...................................................... F3 151 Hotel Navona .............................................. E5
109 Anniable Gamarelli ..................................... F5 152 Hotel Teatro di Pompeo ............................ E6
110 Arsenale .......................................................C5 153 Relais Palazzo Taverna.............................. C3
111 AS Roma Store........................................... H3 154 Residenza Zanardelli.................................. D3
112 Bartolucci.................................................... G4 155 Teatropace 33............................................. D4
14/10/2011 2:51:45 PM
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CENTRO STORICO SOUTH
3 50
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14/10/2011 2:51:46 PM
11 Boccione .....................................................................E1
28 Casa Banzo ................................................................ C1
(p240)
27 Leone Limentani........................................................ E2
25 Borini........................................................................... C1
26 Ethic ............................................................................ D1
21 Vineria Roscioli Salumeria ....................................... D1 ÿ Sleeping
20 Vecchia Roma............................................................. F1
19 Sora Margherita ........................................................ E2
17 Piperno .......................................................................D2
18 Sora Lella ................................................................... E3
(p98)
24 Rialtosantambrogio ...................................................E1
16 L'Arte del Pane ...........................................................E1 þ Shopping
15 La Taverna degli Amici .............................................. F1
14 La Dolceroma ............................................................ E2
(p98)
23 Open Baladin ............................................................. D1
13 Giggetto al Portico d'Ottavia ................................... E2 ý Entertainment
12 Giggetto 2................................................................... F2
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(p95)
10 Alberto Pica ............................................................... D2
22 Bartaruga ....................................................................E1
æ Sights
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1 Area Archeologica del Teatro di Marcello e
del Portico d'Ottavia...............................................F2
2 Chiesa di San Bartolomeo ....................................... E4
3 Chiesa di San Nicola in Carcere...............................F3
4 Fontana del Mascherone ..........................................A1
5 Fontana delle Tartarughe ......................................... E1
6 Museo Ebraico di Roma ........................................... E2
7 Palazzo Cenci ............................................................ D2
8 Ponte Rotto ............................................................... F4
9 Teatro di Marcello......................................................F2
351
14/10/2011 2:51:46 PM
3 52
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14/10/2011 2:51:47 PM
354
TRIDENTE, TREVI & QUIRINALE Map on p352
æ Top Sights
(p105)
Chiesa di Santa Maria del Popolo............. A1
Galleria Colonna..........................................D7
Galleria Nazionale d'Arte Antica Palazzo Barberini..................................... F4
Piazza del Quirinale ....................................D6
Piazza di Spagna.........................................C3
Trevi Fountain .............................................C5
27 Piazza del Popolo ........................................A1
28 Pincio Hill Gardens ......................................B1
29 Porta del Popolo ..........................................A1
30 Scuderie Papali al Quirinale ...................... D6
31 Spanish Steps............................................. C3
32 Time Elevator.............................................. C6
33 Villa Medici .................................................. C2
ú Eating
(p115)
æ Sights
(p107)
Achilli Enoteca al Parlamento......... (see 84)
1 Barcaccia .....................................................C3
34 Al Presidente............................................... D5
2 Basilica dei Santi Apostoli .........................D7
35 Antica Enoteca............................................ B3
Capuchin Cemetery ........................... (see 7)
36 Antico Forno................................................ C5
3 Casa di Goethe ............................................B2
37 Babette .........................................................B1
4 Chiesa della Trinità dei Monti....................D3
38 Buca di Ripetta ........................................... A3
5 Chiesa di San Carlo alle Quattro
39 Buccone....................................................... A2
Fontane ..................................................... F5 40 Colline Emiliane .......................................... E4
6 Chiesa di Santa Maria dei Miracoli ........... A1
41 Da Michele................................................... C6
7 Chiesa di Santa Maria della
42 Dal Bolognese ..............................................A1
Concezione...............................................E4
43 Edy................................................................ B2
8 Chiesa di Santa Maria della Vittoria ........ G4
44 Fiaschetteria Beltramme .......................... B3
9 Chiesa di Santa Maria in Montesanto ...... B1
45 Gina .............................................................. C3
10 Chiesa di Sant'Andrea al Quirinale........... E5
46 'Gusto........................................................... A3
11 Colonna dell'Immacolata...........................C4
47 Gusto Osteria.............................................. A3
12 Fontana del Tritone ....................................E4
48 Il Caruso.......................................................H2
13 Fontana delle Api ........................................E4
49 Il Palazzetto................................................. C3
14 Gagosian Gallery.........................................D3
50 Le Tamerici.................................................. D5
15 Galleria Valentina Moncada ......................C2
51 Margutta Ristorante................................... B2
16 Keats-Shelley House ..................................C3
52 Nino .............................................................. C3
17 Mausoleo di Augusto..................................A3
53 Osteria Margutta ........................................ C2
18 Museo dell'Ara Pacis ..................................A3
54 Otello alla Concordia.................................. C3
19 Museo delle Cere ........................................D7
55 Palatium....................................................... C4
20 Museo Missionario di Propaganda
56 Pasticcio ...................................................... C3
Fide ............................................................D4
57 San Crispino................................................ D5
Obelisk................................................ (see 27)
58 Santopadre .................................................H2
21 Palazzo Balestra .........................................C6
59 Tati' al 28 ..................................................... B3
22 Palazzo Colonna .........................................D6
60 Vineria Chianti ............................................ D5
23 Palazzo del Quirinale ..................................E6
24 Palazzo Odescalchi.....................................C7 û Drinking & Nightlife
(p120)
25 Palazzo Valentini.........................................D7
61 Caffè Greco ................................................. C3
26 Piazza Barberini..........................................E4
62 Canova ..........................................................B1
14/10/2011 2:51:48 PM
355
63 Canova Tadolini ..........................................B2
92 Gallo ............................................................. B3
64 Ciampini 2....................................................C2
93 Il Mare .......................................................... A2
65 Moma ........................................................... F3
94 La Rinascente ............................................. C5
Laura Biagiotti .................................. (see 111)
Salotto Locarno ...............................(see 119)
Stravinkij Bar - Hotel de
Russie ............................................. (see 117)
95 Lavori Artigani Romani (LAR)................... B4
96 Libreria Giunti a Punto............................... C7
97 Lion Bookshop ............................................ B2
98 L'Olfattorio .................................................. A2
ý Entertainment
(p121)
Lucia Odescalchi .............................. (see 24)
67 Gregory's .....................................................D4
99 Mada ............................................................ B3
Hotel de Russie Wellness
100 Mercato delle Stampe ............................... A4
Zone................................................ (see 117) 101 Mycupoftea ................................................. B2
68 Teatro Quirino .............................................C6 102 Sermoneta................................................... C3
69 Teatro Sistina ..............................................E4 103 TAD............................................................... B2
104 Tebro............................................................ B4
þ Shopping
(p122) 105 Teichner....................................................... B4
70 Alinari ...........................................................C3 106 Tod's............................................................. B4
71 Anglo-American Bookshop .......................C4 107 Underground............................................... D3
72 Animalier e Oltre .........................................B2 108 Vertecchi .................................................... B3
73 Armando Rioda ...........................................B3 109 Vignano........................................................ C6
74 Artemide ......................................................B2
75 Artigiani Pellettieri - Marco
ÿ Sleeping
(p241)
Pelle/Di Clemente ...................................B3 110 Babuino 181 ..................................................B1
76 AVC by Adriana V
Cenci .................................................. (see 60)
Campanile.................................................C3 111 Crossing Condotti ...................................... C3
77 Borsalino...................................................... B1 112 Daphne Inn Trevi ........................................ E5
Bottega di Marmoraro ......................(see 15) 113 Daphne Inn Veneto..................................... F4
78 Bulgari ..........................................................C3 114 Gregoriana................................................... D3
79 Campo Marzio.............................................B3 115 Hassler Villa Medici.................................... D3
80 Dadada .........................................................B2 116 Hotel Barocco ............................................. E4
81 Danielle ........................................................B4 117 Hotel de Russie............................................B1
82 Discount dell'Alta Moda .............................B2 118 Hotel Ercoli..................................................H2
83 Eleonora ......................................................C3 119 Hotel Locarno ..............................................A1
84 Enoteca al Parlamento...............................A5 120 Hotel Modigliani.......................................... E3
85 Fausto Santini .............................................C4 121 Hotel Mozart ............................................... B2
86 Fendi.............................................................B4 122 Hotel Scalinata di Spagna ......................... D3
87 Flos ...............................................................C2 123 Il Palazzetto................................................. C3
88 Focacci .........................................................B3 124 La Piccola Maison....................................... E4
89 Fratelli Fabbi................................................C3 125 Okapi Rooms................................................A1
90 Furla..............................................................C3 126 Pensione Panda.......................................... B3
91 Galleria Alberto Sordi.................................C5 127 Portrait Suites............................................. C3
66 Rosati............................................................ A1
14/10/2011 2:51:48 PM
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2 Case Romane .................................. D2
3 Chiesa di San Gregorio Magno ..... D2
4 Chiesa di Santo Stefano
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5 Chiesa di SS Giovanni e Paolo ...... D2
6 Chiesa di SS Quattro Coronati....... F1
19 Da Felice ...........................................B3
34 L'Oasi della Birra..............................B3
Stranieri ........................................ B4
20 Il Bocconcino.................................... E1
35 Villaggio Globale ..............................A4
8 MACRO Future ................................ A4
21 Pizzeria Remo ..................................B3
9 Monte Testaccio ............................. A4
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23 Testaccio Market.............................B3
36 Calzature
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Boccanera .....................................B3
12 Parco Savello................................... C2
25 Volpetti Più .......................................B3
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38 Soul Food...........................................F1
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Malta.............................................. B2
26 Akab ................................................. B4
40 Via Sannio Market ...........................G2
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41 Volpetti..............................................B3
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28 Coming Out ...................................... E1
16 Triclinium Leoninum ...................... G2
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30 Il Pentagrappolo .............................. E1
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43 Hotel Sant'Anselmo ........................B3
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Basilica di San Giovanni in
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Basilica di Santa Sabina................. B2
Terme di Caracalla ..........................E3
3 57
14/10/2011 2:51:49 PM
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362
TRASTEVERE & GIANICOLO Map on p360
æ Top Sights
(p171) 30 Sora Mirella Caffè.......................................H4
Basilica di Santa Cecilia in
31 Valzani ..........................................................F3
Trastevere.................................................H5
Basilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere.......E4 û Drinking & Nightlife
(p177)
Villa Farnesina .............................................D2
32 Bar le Cinque............................................... E3
33 Bar San Calisto ........................................... F4
æ Sights
(p172) 34 Big Star ........................................................ D5
1 Chiesa di San Francesco d'Assisi a
35 Freni e Frizioni............................................. E3
Ripa............................................................ F6
36 Gianicolo 150............................................... B2
2 Chiesa di San Pietro in Montorio ..............D4
37 Il Baretto ...................................................... D5
3 Elleffe............................................................ F4
38 La Meschita ................................................. E3
4 Fontana dell'Aqua Paola ............................C4
39 Libreria del Cinema .................................... F4
5 Galleria Nazionale d'Arte Antica di
40 Ma Che Siete Venuti a Fà .......................... E2
Palazzo Corsini.........................................D2
41 Ombre Rosse .............................................. E3
6 Garibaldi Monument...................................B2
7 Museo di Roma in Trastevere ................... E3 ý Entertainment
(p180)
8 Orto Botanico ..............................................D2
42 Alcazar ..........................................................F5
9 Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere.............E4
43 Anfiteatro del Tasso....................................B1
10 Porta Settimiana.........................................D2
44 Big Mama..................................................... F6
Tempietto di Bramante...................... (see 2)
45 Lettere Caffè Gallery.................................. F6
11 Villa Doria Pamphilj.....................................A5
46 Nuovo Sacher ..............................................F7
47 Teatro Vascello........................................... B7
ú Eating
(p174)
12 Artigiano Innocenti .................................... G4 þ Shopping
(p181)
13 Bir & Fud ...................................................... E2
48 Almost Corner Bookshop.......................... E3
14 Da Augusto .................................................. E3
49 Bibli............................................................... F4
15 Da Enzo ........................................................H5
50 La Cravatta su Misura................................ H5
16 Da Lucia .......................................................D3
51 Officina della Carta..................................... E2
17 Da Olindo......................................................D3
52 Porta Portese.............................................. G7
18 Dar Poeta ..................................................... E3
53 Roma-Store................................................. F4
19 Fior di Luna .................................................. F4
54 Scala Quattorodici ..................................... E3
20 Forno la Renella .......................................... F3
21 Glass Hostaria ............................................. E3 ÿ Sleeping
(p246)
22 La Botticella................................................. E3
Arco del Lauro................................... (see 59)
23 La Gensola .................................................. H4
55 Buonanotte Garibaldi................................. D2
24 Le Mani in Pasta..........................................H5
56 Donna Camilla Savelli ................................ D3
25 Panattoni..................................................... G4
57 Hotel Santa Maria....................................... E3
26 Paris.............................................................. F4
58 La Foresteria Orsa Maggiore .....................D1
27 Piazza San Cosimato ................................. E5
59 Residenza Arco de' Tolomei .....................H4
28 Pizzeria Ivo................................................... F4
60 Residenza Santa Maria.............................. F4
29 Sisini ............................................................. F5
61 Villa della Fonte........................................... E3
14/10/2011 2:51:51 PM
36 3
VATICAN CITY, BORGO & PRATI Map on p364
æ Top Sights
(p184)
St Peter's Basilica.......................................C6
Vatican Museums .......................................D5
25 Ristorante L'Arcangelo..............................H4
26 Settembrini Café .........................................G1
27 Shanti............................................................F3
ú Eating
(p201) þ Shopping
(p204)
9 Angeli a Borgo ............................................. E5
35 Angelo di Nepi............................................. E4
10 Cacio e Pepe................................................ G1
36 Castroni ....................................................... F4
11 Dal Toscano.................................................D4
37 Centro Russia Ecumenica il
12 Del Frate....................................................... E3
Messaggio dell'Icona............................... E5
13 Dolce Maniera ............................................. E3
14 Franchi ......................................................... F4 ÿ Sleeping
(p247)
15 Gelarmony ...................................................G3
38 Bibi e Romeo's Home................................. C3
16 Hostaria Dino e Tony..................................D3
39 Casa di Accoglienza Paolo VI.................... C4
17 Hostaria-Pizzeria Giacomelli......................E1
40 Colors Hotel ................................................ F4
18 La Veranda de l'Hotel Columbus ..............E6
41 Hotel Bramante .......................................... E5
19 Mondo Arancina..........................................G3
Hotel dei Quiriti................................. (see 43)
20 Old Bridge ....................................................D4
42 Hotel Florida................................................ F4
21 Osteria dell'Angelo .....................................D2
Hotel Giuggioli................................... (see 43)
22 Piazza dell'Unità Market ............................ F4
43 Hotel Lady ....................................................F3
23 Pizzarium .....................................................A4
44 Hotel San Pietrino ...................................... D2
24 Pizzeria Amalfi ............................................E4
VATICAN CIT Y, BORGO & PRATI
æ Sights
(p203)
1 Castel Sant'Angelo .................................... G6
28 Alexanderplatz............................................ C3
2 Complesso Monumentale Santo
29 Art Studio Café ...........................................G4
Spirito in Saxia ......................................... F6
Castroni ............................................. (see 36)
3 Museo Storico Nazionale dell'Arte
30 Fonclea ........................................................ E4
Sanitaria.................................................... F6
31 Makasar ....................................................... E5
4 Piazza San Pietro........................................D6
32 Passaguai .................................................... E5
5 Ponte Sant'Angelo..................................... G6
6 Prefettura della Casa Pontificia ................D6 ý Entertainment
(p204)
7 Sistine Chapel .............................................D6
33 Auditorium Conciliazione.......................... F6
8 Vatican Gardens .........................................B5
34 Teatro Ghione ............................................. D7
14/10/2011 2:51:51 PM
36 4
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14/10/2011 2:51:52 PM
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Bambini di Roma...........C5
15 Ponte Milvio....................... B1
ReD ...........................(see 31)
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16 Porta Pia ............................F6
þ Shopping
(p217)
Tartarughe ............(see 17)
17 Quartiere Coppedè...........F4 û Drinking & Nightlife (p216)
35 Borgo Parioli Market........ F4
Foro Italico ........................A2
18 Stadio dei Marmi ............. A2
28 Casina del Lago................ D5
36 Goody Music.....................C5
Galleria Nazionale
19 Stadio Olimpico ............... A2
29 Chioschetto di Ponte
37 Libreria L'Argonauta........ F5
d'Arte Moderna .............D4 20 Villa Ada .............................F3
Milvio ...............................B1
38 Lorenza Ambrosetti......... F5
Giardino del Lago .............D5
21 Villa Borghese ...................E5
30 Piper Club ......................... F4
MAXXI.......................(see 13)
Museo Carlo Bilotti ..........D5
22 Villa Torlonia .................... G5
Notebook..................(see 31)
Museo d'Arte
ý Entertainment
(p217)
39 Ponte Milvio Market......... B1
Contemporanea
ú Eating
(p215)
31 Auditorium Parco della
di Roma (MACRO) ........ F5
23 Al Settimo Gelo................ A4
Musica ............................ C2 ÿ Sleeping
(p248)
Museo Nazionale delle
24 Bar Pompi.......................... B1
32 Casa del Cinema ..............D6
40 Casa Montani....................C5
Arti del XXI
25 Ensô.................................... B1
33 Silvano Toti Globe
Secolo (MAXXI) .............B3
26 Il Gianfornaio..................... B1
Theatre........................... D5
7 Explora-Museo dei
ellini
æ Sights
(p212)
1 Bioparco............................ E4
2 Casina delle Civette
(Musei di Villa
Torlonia).........................G5
3 Casino dei Principi ...........G5
4 Casino Nobile ...................G5
5 Catacombe di Priscilla ....G3
6 Cinema dei Piccoli ........... D5
td
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VILLA BORGHESE & NORTHERN ROME
0
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00ia le
36 7
14/10/2011 2:51:53 PM
Our Story
A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of
adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed
for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to
Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but
inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling
together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap.
Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and
Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook
should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
Our Writers
Duncan Garwood
Coordinating Author, Ancient Rome, Centro Storico, San Giovanni to
Testaccio, Vatican City, Borgo & Prati, Villa Borghese & Northern Rome
Even after more than a decade living in Rome, Duncan is still fascinated by the
city’s incomparable beauty and hidden depths. He has worked on the past four
editions of this guide and contributed to a raft of Lonely Planet Italy titles, as
well as newspapers and magazines. Each job throws up special memories and
this time it was visiting a chapel in the Vatican Museums that’s usually closed to the public.
Duncan also wrote the Plan Your Trip and Understand sections, as well as the Transport chapter and part of the Sleeping chapter.
Read more about Duncan at:
lonelyplanet.com/members/duncangarwood
Abigail Hole
Tridente, Trevi & the Quirinale, Monti, Esquilino & San Lorenzo, Southern
Rome, Trastevere & Gianicolo Abigail moved to Rome in 2003 and lived there
for three years. Her first son was born in Rome, she got married on the banks
of nearby Lago Bracciano, and nowadays she divides her time between Rome,
Puglia and London. She has worked on three editions of Lonely Planet’s Italy
and Rome guides, wrote the Best of Rome guide, and cowrote the first edition
of Puglia & Basilicata. She also regularly writes on Italy for various publications, including Lonely
Planet Magazine, Wanderlust and i-escape.com.
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
ABN 36 005 607 983
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about
7th edition – Feb 2012
the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxiISBN 978 1 74179 856 2
mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
© Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs © as indicated 2012
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2
Printed in China
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic,
mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the
written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent
and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such
as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
18
Top Itineraries
Day One
Day Two
Ancient Rome (p56)
Vatican City, Borgo & Prati (p182)
M
day two, hit the Vatican. First up,
M On
grab a cornetto from Dolce Maniera,
Start the day at the Colosseum,
Rome’s huge gladiatorial arena – try
to get there early to avoid the worst of the
queues. Then head down to the Palatino to
poke around crumbling ruins and admire
sweeping views. From the Palatino, follow
the path down into the Roman Forum,
an evocative area of tumbledown temples,
sprouting columns and ruined basilicas.
Lunch Hostaria da Nerone (p72) is a
traditional, old-school Roman trattoria.
Ancient Rome (p56)
After lunch climb the Cordonata to
Piazza del Campidoglio and the
Capitoline Museums. Here you’ll find
some stunning ancient sculpture and paintings by a selection of big-name artists. To
clear your head afterwards, pop next door
to Il Vittoriano (you can’t miss it) and take
the lift to the top for Rome’s best 360-degree
views.
R
Dinner Dine on Roman-Jewish food at
Giggetto al Portico d’Ottavia (p94)
Centro Storico (p73)
Spend the evening in the Jewish
Ghetto. There are some wonderful
eateries here, including Giggetto al Portico
d’Ottavia, a landmark restaurant that has
been feeding the Ghetto since 1929. Round
the day off with a late drink at Bartaruga.
N
05-itineraries-rom7.indd 18
then plunge into the Vatican Museums.
Once you’ve blown your mind on the Sistine
Chapel and the other highlights, complete
your Vatican tour at St Peter’s Basilica. If
the queues are bad, though, or you’re suffering art overload, stop first for an early lunch.
Lunch Snack at Mondo Arancina (p201)
or Angeli a Borgo (p201).
Dedicate the afternoon to sniffing
R around the historic centre. Here you’ll
come across some of Rome’s great sights,
including Piazza Navona and the Pantheon. Art lovers can admire paintings by
Caravaggio in the Chiesa di San Luigi dei
Francesi and fashion-conscious shoppers
can browse the modish boutiques on Via del
Governo Vecchio.
Dinner Romantic Casa Coppelle (p89)
offers fine French-inspired food.
After dinner stop in the centre for a
N taste of dolce vita bar life. Depend-
ing on what you’re after, you could spend
a relaxed evening at Etablì near Piazza
Navona, join the student drinkers on Campo de’ Fiori, or chat over coffee at Caffè
Sant’Eustacchio.
11/10/2011 1:15:56 PM
19
Day Four
Villa Borghese &
Northern Rome (p205)
Southern Rome (p158)
M
Day three starts with a trip to the
Museo e Galleria Borghese to
marvel at amazing baroque sculpture. Afterwards, walk off what you’ve just seen in
the shady avenues of Villa Borghese and
check what’s going on at Rome’s buzzing
cultural centre, the Auditorium Parco
della Musica.
Lunch Pop up to Piazzale Ponte Milvio
(p215) in the Flamino district.
Tridente, Trevi &
the Quirinale (p103)
In the afternoon investigate the area
around Piazza di Spagna. Plan
your moves while sitting on the Spanish
Steps then dive down Via dei Condotti
to window shop at the flagship designer
stores. From Via del Corso, at the bottom,
you can make your way up to the Trevi
Fountain, where tradition dictates you
throw in a coin to ensure your return to
Rome.
R
Dinner Trastevere (p174) heaves with
restaurants, pizzerias and trattorias.
Trastevere & Gianicolo (p169)
Over the river, the charmingly photogenic Trastevere neighbourhood
bursts with life in the evening as locals and
tourists flock to its many eateries and bars.
Get into the mood with an aperitif at Freni e Frizioni before pizza at Bir & Fud or
a refined dinner at Glass Hostaria.
N
05-itineraries-rom7.indd 19
day four it’s time to venture out
M On
to Via Appia Antica. The main
attraction here are the catacombs and it’s a
wonderfully creepy sensation to duck down
into these sinister pitch-black tunnels.
Back above ground, you’ll find the remains
of an ancient racetrack in the grounds of
the nearby Villa di Massenzio.
PL AN YOUR TRIP TO P I T I N E R A R I E S
Day Three
Lunch Book a table at highly regarded
Trattoria Monti (p138)
Monti, Esquilino &
San Lorenzo (p126)
Start the afternoon off by visiting
R the Museo Nazionale Romano:
Palazzo Massimo alle Terme, a really
superb museum full of classical sculpture
and stunning mosaics. Then drop by the
monumental Basilica di Santa Maria
Maggiore, famous for its mosaics, and the
Basilica di San Pietro in Vincoli, home
to Michelangelo’s muscular Mosè sculpture. Finish up by exploring the pretty
lanes of the Monti district.
Dinner Head out to student enclave San
Lorenzo (p140) and see what’s cooking.
Monti, Esquilino &
San Lorenzo (p126)
Step out with the students in San
N Lorenzo, where there’s always
something going on in the chic restaurants, cheap student haunts and bars.
Further out, you’ll find plenty of after-dark
action in trendy Pigneto.
11/10/2011 1:16:00 PM
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use,
access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair
to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other
words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass
email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions
on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with
our content.’

Rome 7 - Contents (Chapter)

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