mcarthurglen la reggia designer outlet
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mcarthurglen la reggia designer outlet
NOVEMBER 2015 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE Fashion, art and traditions ALL YOU CAN DO IN THE CITY MCARTHURGLEN LA REGGIA DESIGNER OUTLET Designer brands at 35-70% less SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MUSEUMS&ATTRACTIONS FOR THE LABEL LOVERS DESIGNER BRANDS AT 35-70% LESS. ALL YEAR ROUND. McArthurGlen.it/Marcianise Daily shuttle bus service from Naples 11.15 CONTENTS The Plan Let's get started 2 Editor's Note The Guide The best of Naples, Coast & Islands 41 48 4 Hot Dates The hottest dates in November to make your stay in Naples an unforgettable experience 20 SHOPPING Major shopping areas and our choice of the best specialty stores 32 DINING The top restaurants and pizzerias recommended by Where 41 ENTERTAINMENT How to enjoy your stay in Naples and on the Coast & Islands 64 My perfect day Rosanna Marziale Interview with the Chef of Le Colonne restaurant in Caserta 48 Main museum attractions and must-see exhibitions in Naples and on the Coast & Islands 14 Also Inside MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS 46 The Phlegrean Area by night 54 Unmissable night time experience: from the thermal baths to nightspots right up guided tours of Solfatara and Rione Terra OUT OF TOWN Unmissable out-of-town sights: welcome to Sannio 58 54 Out of town ESSENTIALS Tips for getting around in Naples, Pompeii, Herculaneum, Oplonti and on the Coast&Islands In discovery of Caserta. From The Reggia to the Belvedere of San Leucio passing through the streets of Casertavecchia MAP PAGE 62 MASCHIO ANGOINO PH RITA CHILIBERTI Where Now ON THE COVER Cover image by La Reggia Designer Outlet Marcianise STAY IN TOUCH W www.wherenaples.com Like us on facebook.com/ wherenaples 10 THE CULT OF THE DEAD 19 COFFEE WITH A meld of the sacred and the profane, curiosities and Neapolitan traditions linked to ‘All Souls’ month Interview with Ciro Cacciola, General Manager of Mav, the Virtual Archaeological Museum of Herculaneum 14 NAPLES AND ITS CASTELS A trip amist towers, ancient legends, architectural treasures and breathtaking views, in discovery of the symbols of the city wherenaples.com How to enjoy your stay in Naples 38 DINING A trip in discovery of the best sweet wines of the region. The most representative labels of Campania w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 1 EXPO | CAMPANIA FOOD FOR THE SOUL WHERE NAPLES COAST&ISLANDS PROJECT IS ENDORSED BY WHERE NAPLES COAST&ISLANDS published by: IES COMUNICAZIONE SRL Campania, the culinary cradle of Italy Via Agostino Depretis, 51 80133 Napoli T/Fax: 081 6174239 www.wherenaples.com COMUNE DI CAPRI PUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF WHERE | NAPLES COAST&ISLANDS YOU’LL SEE US LIKE THIS! THE PHOTOS MOST VIEWED BY NEWSPAPERS WORLDWIDE What does happiness sound like? German ensemble Liquid Penguin records the joyful sounds of Naples with ‘FeliCittà’ Serena Altieri ([email protected]) EDITORIAL (IES COMUNICAZIONE SRL) EDITORIAL COORDINATION COMUNE DI ERCOLANO Ilaria Puglia ([email protected]) EDITORIAL DEPARTMENT Carey Bernitz DESIGNER Elizabeth Jeanette Deleacaes CONTRIBUTING WRITERS/EDITORS At Expo Milano, this region, symbolically associated with the Mediterranean Diet, the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, presented its best Monica Piscitelli, Ilaria Puglia. HOTEL PR SERVICES gastronomic offerings, demonstrating a renewed interest for environmental Valeria Fusco ([email protected]) control and monitoring. A region that offers a variety of high-quality PRINTED BY A.TETI S.R.L. organic agricultural products unequalled in Italy, boasting tracts of land, 97% of which are clean, untainted and environmentally protected. It was, in fact, at Expo that the President of the Regione Campania, Vincenzo De Luca, reminded us that Campania ranks number one in Italy in terms of environmental control and monitoring systems. “We felt the need to re-launch the products of Campania on a large scale by raising awareness about their sustainability and artisanal excellence which Via E. Gianturco, 31/C - 80146 Napoli www.tipteti.com REG.TRIB. NAPOLI No. 7, 7 FEBRUARY 2014 WHERE NAPLES IS DISTRIBUTED FREE AT TOP HOTELS AND AT SEVERAL SELECT LOCATIONS. Where® is also published in Milan by Where Italia srl and in Rome by Tourist Media srl MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS deserves to be promoted. A perfect MVP EXECUTIVE example is Gragnano pasta which is CHAIRMAN not only the best in the world but William S. Morris III PRESIDENT AND CEO also a true work of art, like the silk William S. Morris IV produced in San Leucio”. This explains Chris Manning MANAGING DIRECTOR EUROPE why at Expo Campania’s claim was In Campania you can savour authentic, Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. controlled products in a context that On account of not being able to source the authors of the photos published, our publishing company is at the disposition of anyone wishing to contact it. “Food for the soul”. aims to promote a philosophy of life designed not only to foster a healthy personal lifestyle but also improve collective wellbeing. wherenaples.com How to enjoy your stay in Naples 2 W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015 Visit www.wherenaples.com to listen to a preview of the joyful sounds of Naples. An acoustic documentary to immortalize the words and sounds that the Neapolitan people associate with the idea of joy, wellbeing and peace. Director Katharina Bihler and composer Stefan Scheib, of German ensemble Liquid Penquin, achieved this feat with ‘FeliCittà’ an initiative promoted by the Goethe Institut as part of the ‘Cantiere Felicità’ project. For roughly two weeks, in September the Liquid Penguin travelled around Naples with their Glückscontainer, a ‘happiness confessional’, resembling a photo booth. Random citizens were stopped and asked to step inside to tell the pair about the sounds that they associate with happiness. The interviewers then recorded the respondents’ answers . The German duo not only interviewed both citizens and institutions but also travelled around the outskirts of the centre recording the most disparate and typical sounds: from the sound of the waves on the Lungomare to the silence of the Certosa, from the music played at the Conservatory of San Pietro a Majella to the sound of Caserta Vecchia right up to that of Solfatara. In short, they recorded the joyful voice of Naples. The Liquid Penguin have worked since 1996 in the field of contemporary music and sound art. Those of you wishing to publish your favourite photo of Naples should write to us either at [email protected] or on facebook.com/wherenaples and we’ll publish it. w w w. w heretravel er. com 3 WHERE NOW | CALENDAR NOVEMBER HOT DATES The hottest dates in November chosen by Where to make your stay in Naples and on the Coast and Islands a truly unforgettable experience! FROM NOVEMBER UNTIL FEBRUARY FABIO LUISI ► Will conduct soprano Julia Kelter and contralto Patricia Bardon accompanied by the Orchestra and Chorus of the San Carlo Opera House. Maestro Luisi will lead the orchestra and singers in Mahler’s Symphony No. 2 in C minor ‘Resurrection’. Teatro San Carlo. Via San Carlo, 98, Naples. T: 0817972331 www.teatrosancarlo.it 4 W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015 PAINTING ACTIONISM, EXCESS AND SENSUALITY, MUSEO NITSCH NAPOLI 2014 - 2016©A. BENESTANTE 21-22 13-1 BORIS MIKHAILOV, BY THE GROUND. COURTESY THE ARTIST SATURDAY AND SUNDAY I AM NOT I ▲Personal exhibition by Boris Mikhailov, one of the leading and most celebrated artists to have emerged from the former Soviet Union. In his photography Mikhailov deals with social issues, analysing the profound and traumatic changes that have invested, and continue to invest his country, the Ukraine and, by transposition, contemporary identity itself. In particular, the exhibition explores the themes of social oppression, poverty, abandonment and solitude. Museo Madre. Via Settembrini, 79, Naples. T: 08119313016 www.madrenapoli.it UNTIL FEBRUARY 28 PAINTING ACTIONISM, EXCESS AND SENSUALITY ◄ The exhibition shows the genesis, development and meaning of action painting in relation to the Orgien Mysterien Theatre. It takes its inspiration from a pivotal statement made by the artist in 1964: “My action painting is the visible grammar of my theatre of action on the surface of a canvas”. On display eighty-eight Schuttbilder taken from ten different painting actions. Museo Hermann Nitsch. Vico Lungo Pontecorvo, 29/d, Naples. T: 0815641655 www.museonitsch.org w w w. w heretravel er. com 5 WHERE NOW Search the full Calendar at wherenaples.com | CALENDAR NOVEMBER UNTIL DECEMBER WHAT'S ON FROM FRIDAY TO SUNDAY SPORT 6-8 FOOTBALL Italian Championship A Series Napoli vs Udinese > 7 November Napoli vs Inter > 21 November Stadio San Paolo. Piazzale Tecchio, Napoli. T: 0812395623 www.sscnapoli.it BASKETBALL National Basketball League A2 Gold Series Givova Napoli vs Il Globo Isernia > 1 November Givova Napoli vs S. Michele Maddaloni > 15 November Givova Napoli vs Planet Basket Catanzaro > 29 November PalaBarbuto. Viale Giochi del Mediterraneo, Napoli. T: 0817622198 www.azzurronapolibasket.com WATER POLO A1 Series Acquachiara vs C.C. Ortigia > 4 November C.C. Napoli vs Rari Nantes Sori > 7 November Acquachiara vs Carisa R.N. Savoia > 13 November C.C. Napoli vs Rari Nantes Bogliasco > 20 November Acquachiara vs Pallanuoto Trieste > 28 November Piscina Scandone. Viale Giochi del Mediterraneo, Napoli. T: 0815702636 www.federnuoto.it CREATTIVA ▲ The Italian exhibition of manual arts. Creattiva is not a simple showcase of products, but it is a true meeting point for thousands of visitors who want to discover new trends in the world of creativity and get in touch with exhibitors, operators, manufactures and distributors of several different materials. Aditionally, visitors can take part at courses and demonstrations proposed during the weekend by exhibitors at their stands. 6-8 November. From 10am to 8pm. Ticket € 7,00 Mostra d’Oltremare. Viale Kennedy, 54, Naples www.fieracreattiva.it UNTIL JULY 4 AXER/DÉSAXER ▲ Site-specific work by French artist Daniel Buren. A large-scale commission conceived especially for the spaces of a museum: using brightly surfaces, mirrors and stripes, the hallmark feature of his work, the artist manages to blur the lines between the interior and exterior spaces of the museum. Museo Madre. Via Settembrini, 79, Naples. T: 08119313016 www.madrenapoli.it 19 GILBERTO ZORIO ► Personal exhibition by Biellaborn artist Gilberto Zorio, a protagonist of the so-called ‘Poor Art’ movement, established in Italy in the mid-sixties. Galleria Lia Rumma. Via Vannella Gaetani, 12, Naples. T: 08119812354 www.liarumma.it SATURDAY 21 UNTIL JANUARY 18 ONLY CONCERTO ANNI 80 E NON SOLO - A TRIBUTE TO THE EIGHTIES… BUT NOT ◄ Neapolitan singer Nino D’Angelo takes audiences on a trip down memory lane with his first hits which saw his meteoric rise to fame during the Eighties both in Italy and abroad. On stage, D’Angelo is accompanied by a talented group of musicians including Massimo Gargiulo (piano and keyboard), Guido Russo (bass), Agostino Mennella (drums), Franco Ponzo (guitar), Mimmo Langella (electric guitar) and vocalist Milly Alcolese. Palapartenope. Via Barbagallo, 115, Naples. T: 0815700008 www.palapartenope.it DESIDERATA (IN MEDIA RES) ► The first retrospective and the first personal exhibition dedicated to British artist Mark Leckey, 2008 winner of the prestigious ‘Turner Prize’ and ‘Central Art Award’. The exhibition ‘Desiderata (in media res)’ presents an excursus of Leckey’s work, amidst new and older pieces: sculptural works, installations, performance and videos. Leckey’s artistic research falls outside the specific field of art, constantly moving towards the boundary between art and everyday life. Museo Madre. Via Settembrini, 79, Naples. T: 08119313016 www.madrenapoli.it Two and a half years after the success of his internationally acclaimed ‘In a Time Lapse’, Ludovico Einaudi has released his new album, “Elements”. Featuring 12 tracks, the album sees the interweaving of piano, strings, percussion and electronics. Simultaneously exhilarating and transcendent, Einaudi’s album boasts important collaborations including that of Dutch String Ensemble Amsterdam Sinfonietta, Berlin-born electronic musician Robert Lippok and MONDAY Brazilian percussionist Mauro Refosco. Teatro Augusteo. Piazzetta Duca d’Aosta, 263, Naples. T: 081414243 www.teatroaugusteo.it 30 UNTIL FRIDAY 13 THE LAST RELIC ▲ The exhibition by Laura Cristinzio offers a reimaging of the “Villa di Poppea” in Oplontis, evocatively recreating its spaces and illusionary perspectives, frescoes and mosaics. The exhibition enjoys the patronage of the Regional Council of Campania, the City of Naples and the University of Naples Federico II and involving the Department of Culture and Tourism of the City of Naples. Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Naples www.ultimoreperto.it THEATRE: “One flew over the cuckoo’s nest”, by Dale Wasserman. Teatro Bellini, Naples 2 ART: “Pompeii and Europe”. Museo Archeologico di Napoli e Scavi di Pompei 3 OPERA: “La Traviata”, by Giuseppe Verdi. Directed by Ferzan Ozpetek. Teatro San Carlo, Naples 4 ART: “Capri The Island of Art”, a project in discovery of the Island through art. Capri 5 THEATRE: “La musica provata”, by Erri De Luca. Music by S. Di Battista. Teatro Bellini, Naples 6 FAIRS: “Creattiva”, the Italian exhibition of manual art. Mostra d’Oltremare, Naples 7 MUSIC: “Se amore è”. Sal da Vinci in concert. Teatro Cilea, Naples 8 PERFORMANCE: “Tableaux Vivants from Caravaggio”. Museo Diocesano, Naples 9 ART: “Last relic”. Exhibition by Laura Cristinzio. Museo Archeologico, Naples 10 11 ART: “Pompeo Carafa, a refined designer for royal tables”. Museo di San Martino, Naples ART: “The Vertebra Oracle”. Exhibition by Rebecca Horn. Studio Trisorio, Naples 12 PHOTOGRAPHY: “20 Years with Pino”. Exhibition for Pino Daniele. Pan, Naples 13 ART: “Desiderata (in media res)”. Solo exhibition by Marc Leckey. Museo Madre, Naples 14 THEATRE: “Henry IV”, by Luigi Pirandello. Teatro Bellini, Naples 15 ART: “The Voice”. Installation by Marco Bagnoli. Museo Madre, Naples 16 ART: “Italy at war”. Archivio di Stato, Salerno 17 ART: “Axer/Désaxer”. Site-specific work by Daniel Buren. Museo Madre, Naples 18 THEATRE: “Il fu Mattia Pascal” by L. Pirandello, starring Tato Russo. Teatro Augusteo, Naples 19 ART: “La ville morte”. Exhibition by Victor Blanc. Fondazione Foucault, Naples 20 PERFORMANCE: Scenes from an archive. Archivio Storico Banco di Napoli, Naples 21 LUDOVICO EINAUDI 6 W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015 1 MUSIC: Nino D’Angelo in concert. A tribute to the Eighties but not only. Palapartenope, Naples 22 MUSIC: Fabio Luisi conducts the San Carlo Orchestra. Teatro San Carlo, Naples 23 ART: “The Uffizi at Casal di Principe”. Casal di Principe, Caserta 24 ART: “I am not I”. personal exhibition by Boris Mikhailov. Museo Madre, Naples 25 ART: Personal exhibition by Gilberto Zorio. Galleria Lia Rumma, Naples 26 MUSICAL: “The Betrothed”. Palapartenope, Naples 27 MUSIC: Pinchas Zukerman conducts Amanda Forsyth on the cello. Teatro San Carlo, Naples 28 FAIRS: “Barter and Second-hand Goods Fair”. Mostra d’Oltremare, Naples 29 ART: “Painting actionism, excess and sensualità”. Museo Hermann Nitsch, Naples 30 MUSIC: Ludovico Einaudi in concert. Teatro Augusteo, Naples w w w. w heretravel er. com 7 WHERE NOW | CALENDAR WHERE NOW | PERFORMANCE UNMISSABLE EXHIBITION UNTIL MAY ITALY AT WAR ► An exhibition featuring historical documents and private papers explores Italy’s entry into the war, seen from the perspective of the people of Salerno: general mobilization, the requisition of schools, the collection of clothes and basic supplies for the first recruits as well as a collection of letters written by soldiers stationed at the front and by prisoners of war captured in the province. From 8am to 6.30pm; Saturdays from 8am to 1pm Archivio di Stato di Salerno. Piazza Abate Conforti, 7, Salerno. T: 089225044 UNTIL JANUARY 17 20 YEARS WITH PINO (ADDOVE) ▲ An exhibition that traces the private and artistic life of Neapolitan singer/songwriter Pino Daniele from 1990 to 2009, the most proliferous period in the career of the musician who died in January 2015. On display, neverseen-before material including 180 photographs and a 4-hour video shot by Alessandro d’Urso. Pan, Palazzo delle Arti Napoli. via dei Mille, 60, Naples. T: 0817958605 www.palazzoartinapoli.net THURSDAY AND FRIDAY UNTIL FEBRUARY 29 THE VOICE ▲ Installation by Marco Bagnoli. ‘La Voce. Nel giallo faremo una scala o due al bianco invisibile” is an ouevre that represents a stairway that leads from the courtyard of the museum, crossing over its roof and reaching all the way up into the sky. The sound of a ‘voice’, describing the menu of a typical Neapolitan meal, emanates from an ampoule on its top. Museo Madre. Via Settembrini, 79. T: 08119313016 www.madrenapoli.it 8 W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015 26-27 PINCHAS ZUKERMAN ▲ Violinist and conductor Pinchas Zukerman conducts his wife, Amanda Forsyth, on the cello. The renowned couple will perform music by Tchaikovsky and Herbert. Chorus and Orchestra of the San Carlo Opera House. Choir master: Marco Faelli. Teatro San Carlo. Via San Carlo, 98, Naples. T: 7972331 www.teatrosancarlo.it Caravaggio Tableaux Vivants from Caravaggio Eight actors bring Caravaggio’s masterpieces to life A live stage show of enormous visual impact. Twenty three canvases inspired by the work of Caravaggio come to life on stage, right before your eyes, using the "tableaux vivants" technique. Using the most basic elements (fabrics of various colours and textures and everyday objects), the actors ‘compose’ the 23 canvases in front of the audience. Once constructed, the painting creates the scene as it would have appeared in the artist’s studio. Within a matter of seconds, costumes and drapery are expertly transformed by the actors who each take on the role of model, set designer, costume designer and props manager. The action is immobilized as if illuminated by one lone flash of light, one ‘perfect’ gesture brings to life the heart of the painting. Impeccable iconographic precision, the expressive force of bodies and faces illuminated by a lateral beam of light, fully bring out the ‘poetry of reality’, the element that distinguishes the works of Michelangelo da Caravaggio. 8 and 22 November; 13 and 17 December. At 10.30am, 11.30am, 12.30am. >> www.museodiocesanonapoli.com >> Museo Diocesano, Largo Donnaregina, Naples. T: 0815571365 w w w. w heretravel er. com 9 WHERE NOW | NEAPOLITAN TRADITIONS Installation by Rebecca Horn, piazza Plebiscito, Naples Church of Santa Maria del Purgatorio, Naples The cult of the dead A meld of the sacred and the profane, curiosities and Neapolitan traditions linked to ‘All Souls’ month. From the souls in Purgatory to culinary customs SIGHTSEEING 10 W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015 I San Pietro ad Aram, Naples n Naples, where myth, legend and mystery blend together, the them. This generally happens during a dream as a go-between between the living and the between via Foria and the heart of Capodimonte; cult of the dead has assumed a picturesque, fairytale-like aura. A when the deceased appears in person and gives dead. In fact, the lost soul appears in a dream the Church of Santa Maria del Purgatorio, on the walk down the busiest, narrowest streets in the heart of the city precise indications which are then interpreted and shows where, amidst piles of bones, his/ Upper Decumanus, in today’s via dei Tribunali and is enough to understand the depth of people’s commitment and using the so-called “Smorfia”, a typical Neapolitan her bodily remains lie. The faithful then goes to the Basilica of San Pietro ad Aram, in a side-street devotion. There are tabernacles and shrines protected by glass book which associates words with numbers, the designated cemetery, adopts the skull of the of corso Umberto, just behind piazza Garibaldi. In cases and adorned with fresh flowers and eternal lights. They are enabling dreams to be transformed into dead person (known as the “capuzzella”) and all three places you can find dozens and dozens embellished by rosaries, images of the Virgin, statues with agonized numbers so that people can play the lottery. builds a so-called “scarabattolo”, a sort of display of skulls of the late lamented to “adopt”. expressions surrounded by flames – the so-called “souls of Purgatory” – The case of the cult of the “souls of Purgatory” cabinet, like a rudimentary altar, that will act as a Rebecca Horn drew inspiration from the photos of the deceased, votive candles and flowers. is different: this time, it is not the deceased who home for the skull. He/she then polishes the skull Fontanelle Cemetery to make the installation In Naples, the faithful attribute the Dead and “souls of Purgatory ” with appear to their loved ones in dreams but the and displays it for everyone to see. The devotee commissioned in 2002. functions that the Catholic religion only ascribes to saints, namely the “souls of Purgatory”, i.e. the deceased devoid of then returns periodically to visit the lost soul who, The work, entitled “Spiriti di Madreperla”, was power of answering prayers and visiting the world of the living when family, abandoned souls who have never had a thanks to his/her devotion, will finally be able exhibited in Piazza del Plebiscito in Naples: it the mood so moves them. dignified burial and are, therefore, amassed in to “cross over”. The day chosen for visits to dead consisted of 333 bronze skulls sunk into the However, praying for the souls of the dead is not a one-sided affair. common ossuaries. souls is Monday and the month dedicated to cobblestones and 77 neon angels’ halos hanging Though prayers are said for their souls, benefits of a practical nature are They ask people to pray for them and look after them is November. above the heads of passersby, thus serving as a asked for in return: e.g. finding a husband, a job, or help with winning them so that they can leave Purgatory (the world The Neapolitan cult of the “capuzzelle” is stark contrast to the ghostly skulls. According to the lottery. Obviously, the recently departed cannot talk but will, of the living) to reach their final destination concentrated in three places: the Fontanelle Horn, it was this contrast that embodied the real nonetheless, find a way of getting in touch with the person calling upon (hell or heaven). In this case too, dreams act Cemetery, in the heart of the Rione Sanità district, meaning of her work. w w w. w heretravel er. com 11 WHERE NOW | NEAPOLITAN TRADITIONS Today, several of those skulls are a part of another during a visit to Naples, the German artist visited installation, “Spirits”, on permanent display at the a couple of octagenarians at their home in vico Museo Madre in Naples. Lammatari, in the Sanità district. Here, the individually lit “capuzzelle” are hung It was here that she learnt about the cult of the on the walls, each with its own mobile mirror souls of Purgatory, nameless, abandoned souls in which visitors can see their reflections. The whose skulls are amassed at the Fontanelle whole is further enhanced by the solemn voice Cemetery where the devout go to adopt a skull of musician Hayden Danyl Chisholm. Horn’s (capuzzella), looking after it, polishing it and intention is to give visitors the idea of a life that praying for its soul. She was so awed by this even death cannot end, because it becomes a unique Neapolitan tradition that she decided part of eternity. to create her “Spiriti di madreperla” masterpiece The story of how the “capuzzelle” installation (Museo Madre. Via Settembrini, 79, Naples www. came about is extremely intriguing. In 2002, madrenapoli.it). Culinary traditions of the Day of the Dead ‘All Souls’ day amidst tantalizing specialities and old beliefs: the most popular foods and their ritualistic meanings. A meld of tradition and good food NOUGAT OF THE DEAD In keeping with Neapolitan tradition, on 2 November, ‘All Souls day, the locals prepare a special sweet treat known at the nougat of the dead. It is softer than most and, under a layer of dark chocolate, it hides a heart of chocolate and hazelnuts. WHEAT A symbol of life and fertility, when combined with mulled wine, pomegranate seeds, cinnamon, walnuts and sugar, this delicacy is part of the ritual celebrations in Campania and, in general, in Southern Italy associated with the Day of the Dead. PUMPKIN A symbol of fertility dating as far back as Greek and Latin times, pumpkin is used to ward off evil spirits. A popular dish, especially in November, it pairs beautifully with pasta but can also be grilled and dressed with vinegar and parsley. 12 W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015 CHICKPEAS In olden days, on 2 November, chickpeas were offered to the souls of the dead so that they could satiate their hunger before returning to the other world. Chickpea soup is a typical dish of Neapolitan tradition associated with the dead. BROAD BEANS Since time immemorial, broad beans were the food dedicated to the dead and were served as the main course at funeral banquets. Their long stalks, which penetrate the soil deep down, were believed to be able to put the living in touch with the dead. WHERE NOW | NAPLES EXPERIENCE Castel Nuovo, Maschio Angioino Naples and its castles The richest and best-preserved castles in Naples. A trip amidst towers, ancient legends, architectural treasures and breathtaking views, in discovery of the symbols of the city Castel dell'Ovo T here are seven castles in the CASTEL DELL’OVO Vesuvius silhouetted in the background. The little CASTEL NUOVO, MASCHIO ANGIOINO CASTEL SANT’ELMO CASTELLO DEL CARMINE city: Castel Nuovo, also known The oldest in the city, Castel dell’Ovo is a landmark lanes beneath the thick walls are lined with the Another symbol of Naples, Castel Nuovo looms The highest fortress in the city, it stands on the Standing in piazza Mercato, all that remains of the as Maschio Angioino, Castel attraction due to its position and architecture. The houses of Borgo Marinaro, a former fisherman’s majestically in piazza Municipio. Commissioned hill of Vomero, in a strategic position. Of Norman Castello del Carmine, built in 1382 by Charles III of Sant’Elmo, Castel Capuano, castle stands on the tiny isle of Megaride where, haunt where quaint lanes are now lined with by Charles I of Anjou in 1266 when he moved the origin, it boasts several magnificent panoramic Durazzo, is the Spinella Tower and a stretch of the Castel dell’Ovo, Castello del according to legend, the siren Pantenope washed pleasant bars and pizzerias. capital of the Kingdom from Palermo to Naples, terraces: the city lies at its foot showing itself in Aragonese wall flanking it. Carmine, the one in Nisida ashore. Its name, the Egg Castle, derives from an CASTEL CAPUANO Aragonese sovereigns. The majestic marble portal acting as a backdrop to the thick maze of the CASTELLO DI NISIDA most representative not only on account of their placed an egg under its foundations, a magical Built in the 12th century by the Normans, it takes at its entrance was commissioned by Alfonso of city’s narrow streets. It is only after admiring Dating back to the 16th century, the Castello historical backgrounds but also because they are egg on which the destiny of the city is thought its name from the nearby gate Porta Capuano, Aragon to celebrate the victories of his dynasty. Naples like this, from above, that you can say that di Nisida was first a hospice for those suffering better preserved. to hang. On passing through its entrance, visitors one of the many gates in the city, leading to Inside, the stark stone Hall of the Barons is named you have truly seen it. Following the Neapolitan from the plague during the terrible epidemic will have the feeling of having entered another Capua. It is the second oldest castle in Naples after the barons arrested and slaughtered here Revolution of 1799, it became the prison of the of 1626 and subsequently a prison for political dimension, due to the light the filters through the and also one of the most significant examples for having plotted against him. Legend has it most important protagonists of the Revolution, prisoners. Today, it houses the city’s juvenile apertures overlooking the sea. of Norman architecture. Over the years, it has that the prisoners of Castel Nuovo disappeared including Giustino Fortunato and Luisa Sanfelice: prison. Little remains of the Fortezza di Vigliena in Breathtaking views can be enjoyed from its housed all the city’s courts of justice: the ‘Salone mysteriously because they were thrown into the according to legend, terrifying screams could be the neighbourhood of San Giovanni a Teduccio, panoramic terrace: on the one side the sea and, dei Busti’ hosts all the busts of the princes of the ditch surrounding the castle where they were fed heard emanating from its underground passages. partially destroyed during the revolution of 1799. on the other, the city with the Bay of Naples and Forum of Naples. to an enormous African crocodile. Today it is a museum that is well worth a visit. Those of you wishing to publish your favourite photo of Naples should write to us either at [email protected] or on facebook.com/wherenaples and we’ll publish it. 14 W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015 PH. SERENA ALTIERI all of its splendour, with the profile of Vesuvius ancient legend according to which the poet Virgil PH. RITA CHILIBERTI the castle owes its current architecture to the and the fortress of Vigliena. The first four are the w w w. w heretravel er. com 15 WHERE NOW | IN DISCOVERY OF CAMPANIA Welcome to Sannio In discovery of the province of Benevento, amidst local curiosities, medieval history, monuments and tourist attractions. Five communes chosen by Where to make your trip memorable For more info www.comune.cerretosannita.bn.it www.comune.cusanomutri.bn.it www.comunesanlorenzello.it www.comuneguardiasanframondi.gov.it www.comune.pietraroja.bn.it 16 W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015 T Piazza G.B. Manni he province of Benevento, bordering to the South Piovene described it as follows : "...a complete the art of ceramic-making with the nearby picturesque area whose distinguishing features with Irpinia, to the West with Casertano, to the North reconstruction, in true Baroque style, capable of commune of San Lorenzello. Its historic centre include its lovely medieval town, rolling hills with Molise and to the East with Puglia, has such surprising even the most discerning visitors”. The boasts two churches, the Church of San Lorenzo, dotted with pine and oak woods but, above all, unique morphological, historical and anthropological archaeological recovery of its medieval centre, which houses the wooden sculpture of the town’s vast stretches of vineyards and olive groves. characteristics that for a moment, following the Unification known as the ‘Medieval Pompeii’, is currently in patron saint, and the Church of the Congregazione The historical centre, built up around the of Italy, there was talk of actually creating a separate progress. Awarded Orange Flag certification by della Sanità, rich in exquisite ceramic works of castle, though partly abandoned following the region: the Sannio. Where has chosen five communes to accompany you in Touring Club Italiano and boasting ‘Città dell’olio’ art including a majolica tympanum by Antonio earthquake of 1980, still retains several medieval discovery of a truly fascinating area. (‘City of Oil’) designation, Cerreto is renowned Giustinianei. Along the via Regia, on the banks attractions of note. The area is home to a number Pietraroja, whose name derives from the French ‘pierre rouge’ (red stone) for its age-old ceramic-making tradition which of the river Titerno, we find the Park of San of lovely small Baroque churches. present in the area, is a mountain commune surrounded by woods flourished following the earthquake of 1688 when Sebastiano, home to the City of Dinosaurs, Lastly, we recommend pushing farther north to abounding in natural springs. Although its most important monument is the reconstruction of the town attracted scores an educational park stretching over roughly the picturesque village of Cusano Mutri, whose the Romanesque Parish Church of Santa Maria Assunta, another unmissable of Neapolitan potters who, absolved from paying one hectare where visitors can admire fifteen typically medieval historical centre retains all of attraction is its Geo-Paleontological Park, with its museum, the Paleolabo, taxes, combined their experience with that of reproductions of fiberglass dinosaurs located in its original old-world charm intact with its narrow housing fossil finds of considerable note, including Ciro, the first baby local potters to give life to a new, more opulent, evocative natural surroundings. streets, porticoes and houses boasting elaborately dinosaur in Italy, several of whose internal organs are still intact. Baroque-style porcelain. Guardia Sanframondi owes its name to the stone-worked portals and windows. Cerreto Sannita, an outpost of Sannio Pentro (a Roman bridge known to Since that time, the ceramics of Cerreto have Sanframondo family who built an imposing The largest church in the commune is the Church the locals as ‘Annibale’ can still be seen here today together with a podium of become highly sought-after objects. In fact, medieval castle here. Today, the castle serves as the of San Giovanni Battista whose precious shrine the only Sannite Temple in Campania), is identified as a ‘planned community’ several of the figurines displayed in the manger town’s cultural hub and is used for performances, contains a thorn from the woven crown of thorns on account of its regular urban structure. Its reconstruction was, in fact, of the Reggia di Caserta, were actually crafted by film screenings, art and photographic exhibitions. placed on the head of Jesus during the events based on a project by the Carafa Counts following the earthquake of 1688 master potters from Cerreto. The commune, renowned, above all, for its noble leading up to his Crucifixion. which razed the town to the ground. Italian writer and journalist Guido For more than three centuries, Cerreto has shared wines produced by the Guardiense winery, is a w w w. w heretravel er. com 17 [ MADE IN NAPLES] Coffee with Special thanks to GUGLIELMO CAMPAJOLA owner of La Caffettiera What are the latest attractions at Mav? What is the annual influx of visitors to Mav? In 2015, we introduced 7 new installations In 2014, we registered more than 70,000 regarding the Villa of the Papyri, an visits to the site of Herculaneum, plus interactive map of Herculaneum and a another 120,000 visitors to exhibitions machine that delivers fragrances. organized abroad. 2015 has seen an increase Future projects? in this trend: the exhibition held in Warsaw, Since 2010, we have been working on the which ended last month, registered an influx MAV ON TOUR project. An itinerant museum of more than 100,000 visitors. project on Pompeii and Herculaneum, which will travel around the world. We have staged exhibitions in Barcelona, Chile, Madrid and Warsaw. We have participated in various exhibitions in collaboration with Ciro Cacciola The Museum’s objective is to offer visitors a chance to relive the everyday lives of the inhabitants of the cities destroyed by the eruption of 79 A.D. In what way? Visitors are treated to a fully immersive experience involving a tour, interactive maps, sensorial effects and sounds. They can even relive the earthquake that accompanied the The General Manager of Mav, the Virtual Archaeological Museum of Herculaneum, the first and only virtual museum devoted to archaeology and, in particular to the archaeological finds of Vesuvius the British Museum in London and with the Kunst Foundation in Hamburg. We are also preparing an exhibition which is scheduled to travel to France in 2016. terrible explosion of Vesuvius during the eruption of 79 A.D. What makes MAV’s offer so unique? Thanks to the use of avant-garde reconstruction is created with technology, MAV the help of archaeologists, enables visitors to learn about the archaeological heritage of the Vesuvian area. Each architects, 3D designers and historians who research the documents and scientific texts available to validate the hypothesis of a reconstruction. w w w. w heretravel er. com 19 SHOPPING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERENAPLES.COM NAPLES ACCESSORIES Sizing E&G CAPPELLI – The beauty of a tie lies in superior-quality craftsmanship, especially when the fabric used is pure silk. Open MonSat 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4pm-8pm – via Cavallerizza a Chiaia, 37 – T: 081.400166 Shoes EUR US UK WOMEN 36 5 3 37 6 4 38 7 5 39 8 6 41 9 7 42 10 8 PISTOLA – For more than a century, Pistola has been manufacturing handmade gloves for every occasion. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm – via S. Caterina a Chiaia, 12 SPAZIO C – An high-class boutique selling clothing and accessories. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm - www. spazioc.net - via Bisignano, 60 – T: 081.401005 MEN It is the perfect place to shop for designer fashion. In this picturesque village-style outlet, you’ll find over 200 international and Italian brands with savings of 35-70% less I f you love designer fashion, you can’t visit Naples without making time for a trip to La Reggia Designer Outlet. This stylish shopping village is one of five Italian centres in the McArthurGlen Group, and is home to a wide selection of soughtafter brands including Blumarine, Brooks Brothers, Hugo Boss, Roberto Cavalli, Tru Trussardi, Pinko, Guess, Liu jo, Patrizia Pepe and many more. Even better, they’re all 3570% less than the RRP, all year round. With so many brands on offer, you’ll find exactly what you’re looking for – from designer accessories and beautiful eveningwear, to holiday essentials and stylish gifts for your friends and family. To make your shopping experience even more special, you can arrange an appointment with the Personal Style Advisor. Book online before your visit to enjoy their expert service tailored to your fashion needs. As well as designer shopping, you can enjoy much more at La Reggia Designer Outlet. Relax by their beautiful fountain and watch the world go by, or admire your purchases over a leisurely lunch in one of their cafés and restaurants. There’s plenty of delicious local cuisine on offer, including authentic Italian coffee, traditional Naples-style pizza and Italy’s world-famous ice cream. The centre is open seven days a week and you can get there easily on the return shuttle bus service, which runs daily from wherenaples.com How to enjoy your stay in Naples 20 W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015 Piazza Minipio in the centre of Naples. You can also reserve a private transfer by calling the information office or booking online. Plus, non-EU citizens can enjoy a tax refund on products purchased at the centre. With over 200 brands at 35-70% less all year round, as well as great places to eat and drink, you can enjoy a fantastic day out at La Reggia Designer Outlet. 7 42 9 8 43 10 9 45 11 10 46 12 11 47 13 12 BOOKS & MAGAZINES UK ANTICA LIBRERIA REGINA – Established as an antique bookseller in the 19th century, over the years it has updated its collection with a number of modern works and publications. Open Mon-Fri 9,30am-1,30pm and 4-8.30pm; Sat 9,30am-1.30pm – via Vittoria Colonna, 15 a/c – T: 081.407309 US WOMEN S M L 34 2 6 36 4 8 38 6 10 40 8 12 42 10 14 44 12 16 MEN S >> Autostrada A1. Exit Caserta Sud, Marcianise (CE) >> T: 0823 510244 >> [email protected] >> McArthurGlen.it/Marcianise 8 EUR XS M L MARIO PORTOLANO – Leather gloves handmade. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm - www.marioportolano.it – via Chiaia, 140/141 – T: 081.418354 41 Clothes La Reggia Designer Outlet GEMELLI DA POLSO – Love and passion for the working of precious stones. Collections inspired by nature, including the Isle of Capri. Open only by appointment - www. gemellidapolso.it – Piazza Amedeo, 16/I – T: 081.403512 44 34 34 46 36 36 48 38 38 50 40 40 52 42 42 54 44 44 ULTURALE CRAVATTE – A tie should be expressive, stylish and memorable – in short, beautiful. Open Tue-Fri 10am-7,30pm; Sat 10am-1,30pm - www.ulturalecravatte.it – via Carlo Poerio, 115 – T: 081.2481151 LA FELTRINELLI – More than 100,000 titles including books, music and music scores, DVDs, games, musical instruments, high-class stationery, gadgets and magazines. Open MonFri 10am-9pm; Sat 10am-11pm; Sun 10am-2pm and 4pm-10pm - www. lafeltrinelli.it – via Santa Caterina a Chiaia, 23 – T: 081.2405411 CHILDREN’S CLOTHING & TOYS DU PAREIL AU MEME – A brand specializing in clothing for children aged 0 to 14. Open Mon-Sat 10am1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm-8pm – http://www.dpam.com/ - via Vittoria Colonna 14/a FRANCESCO MARTONE – Established in 1889, Francesco Martone has developed from generation to generation with its array of elegant, timeless children’s fashions. SHOPPING Corso Umberto I, 234. T: 081287962 www. francescomartone.it LA BANCARELLINA – Dresses children aged 0-6 with the latest creations by Mini Man, Le Guignol and Startrite. Open Mon-Sat 10am2pm and 4pm-8pm – via Carducci, 39/41 – T: 081.401695 OONA L’OURSE – Sartorial creations for children aged 0-4. Over the years, the age bracket was extended to 12-year-olds. Open Mon-Fri 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm; Sat 10am-1,30pm – www.oonalourse.it – via Carlo Poerio, 6 – T: 081.7644745 SCIUSCIA’ – Leader in clothing for children and boys aged 0–18. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm - www.sciuscianapoli.it – via Vittoria Colonna, 3 – T: 081.4104397 SIOLA – A wide choice of clothing and accessories for infants and children up to the age of 10. Its beautiful window displays, where no detail has been left to chance, and its charming interior, are a joy to behold. Open Mon-Sat from 9am-8.15pm; Sun 11am-1.30pm; 5pm-8pm – Via Chiaia, 11 – T: 081415036 www. siola.it CLOTHING – MEN & WOMEN ALESSIO VISONE – She creates exclusive styles right before your eyes. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm and 3pm-6pm – via dei Mille, 1 – T: 081.421390 AMINA RUBINACCI – Her oyster-style sweater has made her famous throughout the world and is available in the classic colours of burgundy, prune, light blue, white, grey or black. Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm and Mon-Fri 4pm-8pm – via dei Mille, 16 – T: 081413048 ANGELO MARINO – A stylish menswear shop, synonymous with Neapolitan sartorial elegance. Open Mon-Fri 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm; Sat 10am-1,30pm – via Domenico Morelli, 14/16 – T: 081.414225 ASPESI – Lightness and fluidity are the key words of this brand featuring soft, versatile clothing. Open Mon-Sat 10am1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm – www.aspesi.it – piazza San Pasquale, 23/24 – T: 081.7645399 BARBARO - Since 1970, Barbaro has been synonymous with a distinct, highly recognizable style that interprets MICHAEL KORS. Crafted in vacchetta, the Bryce Leather Boot are a part of Jet Set 6 Collection www.michaelkors.com w w w. w heretravel er. com 21 SHOPPING Italian luxury with the best-known clothing and accessory labels. Galleria Umberto I, 1/7. T: 081414940 www.barbaro.eu BLASI – A haven for lovers of precious fabrics, refined cuts and 8pm – www.bikkembergs.com – via Gaetano Filangieri, 4/5 EDDY MONETTI – Hats, ties, smoking jackets and a range of accessories. His motto is “men must keep abreast of the times”. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Sat 4pm8pm - www.eddymonetti.com – via dei Mille, 45 – T: 081.407064 – piazza Santa Caterina, 8 – T: 081.403229 FA.B.ER – Featuring sartorial items and costume jewellery, this workshop is a blaze of colour and a quirky shopping destination. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm-8pm – via G. Ferrigni, 4 – T: 338.4300696 FALCONERI – A brand that creates comfortable, form-fitting garments with an impeccable cut. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm8pm - www.falconeri.it – via dei Mille, 51 – T: 081403471 HUGO BOSS. Sorrel leather ankle boots featuring a decorative clasp and metal fittings to add a versatile touch of cool to all outfits. www.hugoboss.com fashion-forward styles. Open Mon-Sat 10am1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm – via dei Mille, 31/33 – T: 081.415283 BRUNELLO CUCINELLI – The king of cashmere. Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm and Mon-Fri 4pm8pm – www.brunellocucinelli.con – via dei Mille, 31/35 – T: 081.4238126 BRUNO CARUSO PRIVEE – Caruso’s bridal wear is a delightful mix of elegance and contemporary trends. Relief flowers, Swarovski, georgette and opulent, elegant capes designed to discreetly cover plunging necklines during religious ceremonies but also soft, mermaid-style lines and semitransparencies epitomize the rich details of his gowns. Via Carlo Poerio, 12. T: 0817640551 www.brunocarusoprivee.com CATAPANO - A wide range of apparel, both casual and elegant and top-level customer service make Catapano a must-visit destination. via Toledo. T: 081407813 CESARE ATTOLINI – The king of tailors, or the tailor of kings, Cesare Attolini actually made a suit for Victor Emanuel III of Italy. Open Mon-Fri 10,30am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm; Sat 10am-1,30pm - www.cesareattolini.com – vico Vetriera, 12 – T: 081.426826 DE MATTEO - A rich choice of brands for men and for women. Also stocks accessory. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. Piazza Nicola Amore, 14/16. T: 081260582 www.dematteogroup.it DESIGUAL – Established in Barcelona in 1984, the slogan of this fantasy-filled brand is: “Desigual is not the same” – www.desigual.com – Via Toledo, 300/302 – T: 0810665132 DIRK BIKKEMBERGS – Belgian designer Dirk Bikkembergs’ philosophy has always been to combine the best of fashion and sport. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm- FRANCESCA FERRANTE – Its collections, ever-attentive to new fads and the latest trend, are practical, young and fresh. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm8pm – www.francescaferrante.com – piazza dei Martiri, 52 – T: 081.2451056 FRANZESE - A high-end luxury boutique carrying men, women and children’s clothing plus loads of stylish accessories – www. luxuryoflove.it – via D. Morelli, 6/10b (piazza dei Martiri). T: 0816583168 GALLERIA NAVARRA – A real oasis of shopping in a garden: iconic brands and the latest trends in Neapolitan elegance - www.gallerianavarra. it – Piazza dei Martiri, 23 – T: 0817643595 GUTTERIDGE – Micheael Gutteridge arrived in Naples from Yorkshire and went on to create a small empire. Today the company is synonymous with creative flair, skill, tradition and innovation. Open Mon/Sat 10am/1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm – www. gutteridge.it – via Chiaia, 107 LIU JO – Established as a textiles company specializing in knitwear, it later branched out into “ready-to-wear” fashion for women, men and children. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm – www.liujo.it – via Gaetano Filangieri, 6/7 – T: 081.42982 LOTTO 0 – A chic, cult Neapolitan sportswear destination. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm – www.lottozero.it – via Gaetano Filangieri, 60 – T: 081.2512103 LUCIANO COPPOLA – Styles by Brando, Iceberg, Fusco and Gigli are featured alongside a selection of specially treated waterproofed garments. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm - via dei Mille, 47 – T: 081.413026 LUISA SPAGNOLI – A perfect balance of innovation and tradition, upgraded lines and experimentation with styles are part of Luisa Spagnoli’s philosophy. Open Mon-Fri 10am2pm and 4pm-8pm – www.luisaspagnoli. it – via Chiaia, 200 – T: 081.410132 Via Toledo. T: 081419476 MARIELLA BURANI – Clothing, leather goods, knitwear and footwear for discerning women. Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm and Mon-Fri 4pm8pm – www.mariellaburani.com – via Chiaia, 136 MAXI HO – A reference point for shopping in Naples, where the group owns a number of sales points. Its via Nisco location is dedicated to clothing collections, footwear and accessories for men. Open Mon-Fri 10am1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm; Sat 10am-1.30pm - www.maxiho.it – via N. Nisco, 23/27 – T: 081.410231 MURPHY & NYE – One of the most prestigious nautical brands in the world. Open Mon-Sat HALLOWEEN – Since 1981 it has offered a wide choice of garments from the best Italian and European brands based on attention to detail and the search for unusual, high-quality fabrics. Open Mon/ Sat 9,45am-1,45pm and 4,30pm-8pm - via Ferrigni, 37 – T: 081403773 HARMONT & BLAINE – Iconic dachshund brand Harmon & Blaine represents one of the most dynamic and successful sportswear brands in the fashion industry. Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm and Mon-Fri 4pm-8pm – www.harmontblaine.it – piazza dei Martiri, 33 – T: 081.7642591 HUGO BOSS –An ever so sleek and stylish collection of high-end clothing for men and women. Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm and 4pm-8pm – www.hugoboss.com – via dei Mille, 41 – T:081.401424 JOSSA – Men’s clothing, footwear and accessories. It stocks Alberto Aspesi quilted jackets and jackets, vintage-style Duvetica quilted jackets and minimalist, beautifully tailored Jil Sander suits. Accessories include Pantofola D’Oro sneakers and coloured Car Shoe loafers. Via Carlo Poerio, 43. T: 0817649835 22 W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015 ALBERTA FERRETTI. Severe, old-world brocade cuissardes for the 2015 Fall-Winter season. www.albertaferretti.com SHOPPING SHOPPING ROBERTA BACARELLI – Since 2011, a brand dedicated to women fashion. Her collection fluctuates between tailor-made authentic vintage garments and more contemporary stylish outfits, in a blend conveying an equilibrated image of nowadays woman which, not dropping out the cloths comfort, blinks her eyes to the past days elegance www.robertabacarelli.it - Via C. Poerio, 48. T: 0817641584 RUBINACCI – Here you can sit down, have a cup of coffee with Mariano himself, discuss the arrival or some new fabric or the manufacture of a new suit. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm-8pm – www.marianorubinacci. net – via Chiaia, 149/E – T: 081.415793 DIOR. High boots in blue and brown patterned patent leather add a touch of colour to cold, grey winter days. www.dior.com 10am-2pm and Mon-Fri 4pm-8pm – www. store.murphynye.com – via Chiaia, 148/149 OFFICINE – Classic clothing and casual refined taste. So many brands are available: Lardini, Barba Orian, Tramarossa Pants, Roy Rogers and Altea Heritage are just some of them. Via Carlo Poerio, 92/f. T: 0810324403 PAOLO FIORILLO – The piazza dei Martiri boutique is dedicated to women’s collections while the one located in via Carducci stocks clothing, footwear and accessories for men and women. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and 4pm-8pm – www.paolofiorillo.com – via Carducci, 49/51 – piazza dei Martiri, 30/32 – T: 081.2400023 OLD ENGLAND – Tradition, quality and elegance meld in a shop whose British style has made it famous throughout the world. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm-8pm - via Filangieri 15/D PINKO – Pinko stands out thanks to its stunning decor, studied down to the last detail, including its carefully planned arrangement of lights, colours and displays. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm-8pm – www.pinko.it - via dei Mille, 1/7 – T: 081.4976360 PRIDE CONCEPT STORE PENALTY – A space where research and the experimentation of new brands is the name of the game. Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm and 4pm-8pm - www. pridepenalty.it – via Cavallerizza a Chiaia, 27/28 – T: 081.418542 RAFFAELE CAPASSO - Established in 1905, Raffaele Capazzo has always managed to always keep abreast of the times by not only offering apparel form men, women and children but also home furnishings and linen – Corso Umberto I, 147 – T: 081204741 - www.libonatijewels.com – vico II Alabardieri, 27 – T: 081.19564205 APA – The time-honoured tradition of coral and cameo crafting from 1750 to the present-time. Via Cavallo, 6, Torre del Greco – T: 0818810246 www.lpm-apa.com BARAKA ELITE LUXURY – New materials skilfully combined with gold and diamonds thanks to cutting-edge techniques. Open Mon-Sat 10am1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm - www.baraka.it – via Calabritto, 28 – T: 081.7646951 BRINKMANN – Iconic watchmakers whose name is imprinted on the clocks of all the cableway stations in Naples - www.brinkmann. it - Piazza Municipio, 21 – T: 0815520555 SARTORIA DALCUORE – His outerwear has a unique cut that earned him the nickname of “the tailor, non-tailor”, coined by his colleagues to emphasize his flair and his non-conformist attitude. Open Mon-Sat 8am-8pm; Sun 8am2pm - www.sartoriadalcuore.com – Riviera di Chiaia, 281– T: 081.7645785 BRUNO & PISANO – All the details of this boutique’s decor are reminiscent of the passing of time: from its entrance door featuring a ticking clock, to its poufs and armchairs. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm – via Calabritto, 15 – T: 081.7644035 SATRIANO CINQUE – An atelier, a meeting place and a tailor’s shop, it offers high-end “made to measure” garments made from precious fabrics featuring unique weaves and patterns. Open Mon-Fri 10am-7pm and Sat 10am-2pm - vico Satriano, 5 – T: 081.0320021 CALABRITTO 28 – New materials skilfully combined with gold and diamonds thanks to cutting-edge techniques. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm-8pm - www. baraka.it – via Calabritto, 28 – T: 081.7646951 TAKESHY KUROSAWA – A dramatic, cuttingedge, totally unconventional brand, whose unusual, personality-filled name says it all. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm – www.takeshykurosawa.com – via dei Mille, 11 YAMAMAY – Lingerie, pyjamas and night wear, swimwear and make-up, but also eyewear and bags. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-8.30pm – www. yamamay.com - via Chiaia, 94 – via dei Mille, 83 A/B – T: 081.409490 WEEKEND MAX MARA - An Italian fashion house known for its ready-to-wear clothing for elegant, dynamic women. Corso Umberto I, 108/110 CONCEPT STORES MERCEDES-BENZ SPOT – For total look enthusiasts, at this store, Mercedes owners will find everything necessary to coordinate luggage, jackets, watches and pens with their car. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm-8pm - www.mercedes-benz-spot.it/ via Nisco, 16 R-STORE – Authorized Apple assistance centre. A place where you can try out all the latest applications or simply browse through everything that the universe of the bitten apple has to offer. Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm and 4pm-8pm - www.rstore.it - via Nisco, 14/16 – T: 081.404246 CARAMANNA – The philosophy of Caramanna’s jewellery is encapsulated in innovative, soughtafter shapes, intriguing subjects and the working of noble materials based on timeless artisanal techniques - www.caramannagioielli. it - Via Cavallerizza a Chiaia, 2 – T: 0810608740 DODO BOUTIQUE – A collection of charms created by Pomellato, recognized throughout the world for its jewellery, designed to celebrate the small, whimsical feathered Dodo. Open Mon-Sat 10,30am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm-8pm - www.dodo.it - via Filangieri, 58 GENTILE - High class watches and jewellery since 1900. Armando Gentile Gioielleria. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. Via Toledo, 349, Naples. T: 081412711 info@armandogentile. it; Gentile Gioielli. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. Via Nicola Nisco, 4, Naples. T: 081418360 [email protected] GIOVANNI RASPINI – A space extending over a surface area of 35 sq.m in the heart of the shopping centre renowned for its beautifully handcrafted silverware. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm - www. raspini.it – via Bisignano, 63 – T: 081.4976064 ILEANA DELLA CORTE – Her motto is: “I like being elegant”. Open Mon 4.30pm-8pm; TuesSat 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm – www. ileanadellacorte.it – via Carlo Poerio, 52/a – T: 081.7646101 JEWELLERY & WATCHES INTRECCI PREZIOSI – The result of passion and artisanal perfection, each piece is produced using only the most precious materials and time-honoured design techniques. Open Tues-Sat 9,30am-1,30am; Mon-Sat 4,30pm-8pm - www.intreccipreziosi.com - via Carlo Poerio, 89 – T: 0810321203 ALESSANDRA LIBONATI JEWELS – AA young, design company where attention to fashion and contemporary trends plays a key role. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm MANTOVANO – On offer are items of high-class jewellery, both antique and modern, Sheffield silver and objets d’art. Open Mon-Sat 10am1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm-8pm – www. 24 W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015 mantovano.com – piazza dei Martiri, 58 – T: 081.418003 MONETTI – High-class watchmaking and jewellery in Naples since 1904. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm-8pm – www.monettiorologi.com – via dei Mille, 12 – T: 081.411468 NAPPA GIOIELLI – The first Nappa jewellery store was founded in Naples in 1920. Unique jewels that combine high-end craftsmanship with sophisticated design - aesthetics. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm - www.nappagioielli.it – via Filangieri, 65 – T: 081.413143 PANDORA - The wide range of Pandora jewellery offers a superlative mix of gift ideas for all types of women and occasions. With its charms, bracelets, rings, earrings, watches, necklaces and pendants, those on the receiving end can continue to extend their Pandora collection with timeless items, designed to cater to all tastes and, what’s more, last for a lifetime. – www.pandora.net – Via Toledo, 322 – T: 0814976012 PRESTA – Established in Naples in 1902 thanks to the enterprising spirit of visionary, Cavalier Giuseppe, who used his love of jewellery to lay the foundations for future generations. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm8pm – www.prestagioielli.it – via dei Mille SARA LUBRANO - Sara Lubrano’s handcrafted pieces are designed to exalt the personality of those who enjoy wearing exclusive jewellery, often tailor-made in her atelier. Vicoletto Belledonne a Chiaia, 7, Naples. T: 08119575070 www.saralubrano.it VENTRELLA – Each piece of jewellery is unique in an ongoing search for perfection. Ventrella jewellery is distinguished by its original charm knows as the “labyrinth” or the “boomerang”. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm-8pm - www.ventrella.it – via Carlo Poerio, 11 – T: 081.7643173 LEATHER & LUGGAGE CARPISA – A small tortoise logo and more than 600 sales points scattered throughout Italy and the world. Its rich array of collections, an expression of pure Italian design, are a bargain fashionista’s dream come true. Bags, small leather goods, luggage, briefcases, accessories and gifts at affordable prices. www.carpisa.it – Via Nisco, 1 – T: 081418390; via Toledo, 249/251 – T: 0812525067 FURLA – Since 1927, Furla has produced and distributed stylish, high-class, exclusively “Made-in-Italy” bags, footwear and accessories throughout the globe. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm - www.furla.com – via Gaetano Filangieri, 26 – T: 081.414218 PIQUADRO – The company specializes in business and travel luggage, trolleys and suitcases, mainly in leather or hi-tech materials, a blend of traditional Italian craftsmanship, design, innovation and technology. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm8pm - www.piquadro.com – via Carducci, 32 – T: 081.419245 TRAMONTANO – Since the very beginning, Tramontano’s leather goods collections, including “Made-in-Italy” totes and accessories, have been manufactured exclusively in its Naples-based workshops. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4pm-8pm - www. tramontano.it – via Chiaia, 143/144 – T: 081.414837 PASSION SHOPPING BRUNO ACAMPORA – For the past 40 years, Bruno Acampora has been creating perfumed oils in his small atelier. His range features seven natural essences of international repute. Open Mon-Sat 9am-1pm and 3pm-6pm – www. brunoacampora.com – via Gaetano Filangieri, 72 – T: 081.401701 ELENA COLONNA – For several generations, the Haute Couture bridal wear found at Atelier Elena has been a pure expression of the maison’s sartorial expertise. Her passion for bridal gowns stems fro more than fifty years in the business. Open only by appointment – www.elenacolonna.it – via dei Mille, 40 – T: 081.404590 LIVIO DE SIMONE – A “designer cum artist” whose creations have garnered international acclaim on runways throughout the world thanks to his magnificent sartorial offerings. In addition to his womenswear, De Simone’s home fabrics are also absolutely stunning. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm - www.liviodesimone.it – Via D. Morelli, 17 – T: 0817643827 MARINELLA – The history of the Marinella family started with its founder Eugenio. It was he who founded the “Marinella philosophy”: more than a sales point, a sort of men’s club where human relations are based on service, courtesy and respect. Open Mon-Sat 6,30am-8pm; Sun 9am-1pm - http://www.marinellanapoli.it - Riviera di Chiaia, 287 – T: 081.7644214 M. CILENTO E F.LLO DAL 1780 – For more than 200 years, in addition to high-quality, high-end accessories, Cilento has offered its clientele a wide range of the best fabrics for clothing and shirting - www.cilento1780.com - Via Medina, 61/a-b. T: 0815513363 MONCLER – Boutique and home to the famous “puffer” jacket. A jacket that is ideal both for mountain and city wear. Open Mon-Sat 10am14pm and 4pm-8pm – www.moncler.com – via Filangieri, 21 – T: 081.421159 MUSEUM SHOP - Shop for gifts and souvenirs typical of Naples. T-shirts, jewelry, bronzes, prints, statues, books, CDs, DVDs and stationery with themes dedicated to Naples www.museum-shop.it - Largo Corpo di Napoli, 3. T: 3891194169 OSTUNI – For the past fifty years, Ostuni has been a leader in the world of fragrances and is known, above all, for its rarities. Bottles that are almost impossible to find anywhere else and unrivalled essences. Open Mon-Sat 9am-1.30pm and 4pm-8pm – via Morelli, 23 – T: 081.7643903 – via D. Colonna, 39 – T: 081.401804 PROFUMO EMOZIONI OLFATTIVE – A boutique dedicated to niche fragrances for BURBERRY. Elegant Wellington boots with stud inserts at the ankle and non-slip rubber soles. it.burberry.com those in search of their ideal fragrance. Open from Tuesday to Saturday from 9.30am to 1.30pm and from 4pm to 8pm. Mon. From 4.30pm to 8pm - www. profumopoerio33.it - Via Carlo Poerio, 33. T: 0812405072 VOYAGE PITTORESQUE - Made-to-order contemporary, graphic and photographic works plus the reproduction of all types and sizes of prints and photographs. Elite art, prints, panels, objet d’art and customized works. Stylish, imaginative tailor-made creations - www.voyagepittoresque.it – Via Vittoria Colonna, 15 – T: 081407309 SHOES ALBANO – A temple to luxury shoes: sexy sandals in uber-glam nuances, embellished by precious stones, Swarowski crystals and ultra-feminine details. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm-8pm - www. albano.it – via Santa Caterina a Chiaia, 12 – T: 081.19568193 ALBERTO GUARDIANI – Superior quality footwear featuring a blend of exquisite craftsmanship, experimentation and painstaking attention to detail cohabit in a perfect mix, giving life to luxurious products. Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm and 4pm-8pm – www.albertoguardiani.com - via Gaetano Filangieri, 76/78 – T: 081.7643884 DELIBERTI – Style, research, design and a profound intuition for new trends is the byword of this house of shoes. Open MonSat 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm - www. deliberti.it – via dei Mille, 65 – T: 081.6584363 DEV – Carries the men’s, women’s and children’s lines of renowned brands Tod’s, Hogan and Fay. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm-8pm – via Gaetano Filangieri, 28/33 – T: 081.410156 ERNESTO ESPOSITO SHOES – A Neapolitan designer of international repute, his passion for fashion, art and design have served as his main sources of inspiration. Open MonSat 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm - www. ernestoespositoshoes.com/ - via Santa Caterina a Chiaia, 20 – T: 081.4238325 w w w. w heretravel er. com 25 SHOPPING SHOPPING L’ARTIGIANO DEI SANDALI – Jackie Kennedy had a soft spot for this tiny shoemaker’s shop. For the past 50 years, the Ricci family has been crafting custom-made sandals at this location. The open Capri model with a low heel resembling a Roman sandal is one of the venue’s standouts. Open Mon-Sat 9am-1,30pm and Mon-Fri 4pm-8pm – vico Belledonne a Chiaia, 23 – T: 081.414698 PASKAL – The boutique was founded by Pasquale Campanile, a member of a family of time-honoured shoemakers who began his adventure in 1956 with a workshop in via Scarlatti, later going on to open what is now Paskal – a haven of finely-crafted footwear. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4pm-8pm – www. pkbypaskal.it – via dei Mille, 83 – T: 081.409466 MARIO VALENTINO – Truly innovative footwear. Several of his styles have even been showcased at the Museum of Modern Art in New York. Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm and Mon-Fri 4pm-8pm – www.mariovalentino.it – via Calabritto, 10 – T: 081.7644262 SPATARELLA - Footwear and leather goods manufactured by revered Italian and international brands. For women who love trendy designer accessories and shoes - Via Toledo, 284 – T: 081417108 RUCO LINE – Easy-to-wear, practical footwear that focuses, above all, on comfort. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm – via dei Mille, 27 – T: 081.419012 SUTOR - A temple to luxury shoes: Marini, Regain, Green George, Santoni, Premiata. Via Carlo Poerio, 36. T: 0812452292 YMOTHO – High-quality, trendy shoes at unbeatable prices featuring a wide selection of dozens of styles. A “must-visit” destination. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm – Piazza Giulio Rodinò, 17 – T: 081.425626 STATIONERY LA BOTTEGA DELLA CARTA – Boasts an impressive choice of stationery, gift items and party decorations. Customers will be swept away by its colourful, eye-catching treats, from festoons to coloured boxes right up to gift cards. - via Cavalleriza a Chiaia, 23 – T: 081421903 LA FELTRINELLI – A megastore spread out over four floors, Feltrinelli offers including books, music and music scores, DVDs, games, musical instruments, high-class stationery, gadgets and magazines. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm - www.lafeltrinelli.it – via Santa Caterina a Chiaia, 23 - T: 081.2405411 ACCESSORIES GREY FLANNEL – Via Le Botteghe, 31, Capri. T: 0818388200 DANIELA GRILLO – Beachwear. Corso Vittoria Colonna, 138, Ischia. T: 3465158320 www.danielagrillo.com GRIFO – Corso Vittoria Colonna, 169, Ischia. T: 0813334401 www.grifoischia.it IL SOGNO – Beachwear. Via Maiano, 15, Sant’Agnello, Sorrento. T: 3388854082 IDENTITÀ MARE – Via Delle Terme, 5, Ischia. T: 081985580 IL PELLICANO – Corso Vittoria Colonna, Ischia; Piazzetta Sant’Angelo, Serrara Fontana, Ischia. T: 081990854; T: 081904368 LE MONDE DES BIJOUX – Via Roma, 123, Ischia. T: 081984800 JUDITH MAJOR – Via Chiaia delle Rose. Sant’Angelo, Ischia. T: 081983295; 0813330336 MACRAMÈ – Via Luigi De Maio, 28, Sorrento. T: 0818773114 KETRA FASHION – Corso Italia, 1/G, Meta di Sorrento. T: 0815323032 CLOTHING LA CAPRESE PIÙ – Corso Vittoria Colonna, Ischia. T: 081981797 www.lacapresepiu. com ANNA FOTI – Corso Italia, 210, Sorrento. T: 0818784730 www.annafoti.com LA PARISIENNE – Piazza Umberto I, 7, Capri. T: 0818370283 www.laparisiennecapri.it A’ PUTECHELLA – Via Luigi Mazzella, 101, Ischia. T: 0813334537 www.aputechella.it LINOMANIA – Via Pasitea, 199, Positano. T: 3384194405 BOUTIQUE BAROCCO – Viale Pasitea, 94, Positano. T: 089811144 MARIA LAMPO – Via Pasitea, 12/16, Positano. T. 089875021 – www.marialampo. it CARMELA CELENTANO – Via P.R. Giuliani, 4/6, Sorrento. T: 0818781370 www. carmelacelentano.it CHIARO DI LUNA – Corso Italia, 16/18, Meta di Sorrento. T: 0815322290 CRUCIANI – Piazza Umberto, 5, Capri. T: 0818370204 www.cruciani.net DOLCE E GABBANA – Via Camerelle, 39/41, Capri. T: 0818377154 – www. dolcegabbana.it ELIO FRONTERRÈ – Corso Vittoria Colonna, 154, Ischia. T: 081905552 www.eliofronterre. com EMPORIO LE SIRENUSE – Via Cristoforo Colombo, 30, Positano. T: 089811468 – www.sirenuse.it MARIO ADARIO – Corso Italia, 128/130, Sorrento. T: 0818781361 www.marioadario. it MARIORITA STORE – Boutique at the Capri Palace Hotel. Piazza Vittoria. Anacapri, Capri. T: 0818371426 NADIR – Via Pasitea, 44, Positano. T: 089811690 www.nadirpositano.com PHILOSOPHY – Corso Vittoria Colonna, 130, Ischia. T: 0813331312 RETRÒ FASHION STORE – Corso Luigi Manzi, Casamicciola, Ischia. T: 0815072429 www.retroabbigliamentoischia.it RI BOUTIQUE – Piazza Santa Restituta, Ischia. T: 081994322 FARELLA – Knitwear. Via Fuorvaldo, 21/c, Capri. T: 0818375243 – www.farella.it RIZ BOUTIQUE – Via Messer Onofrio, Ischia. T: 081900239 FIORDALISO BOUTIQUE – Via Gianturco, 2, Ischia. T: 081900219 STELLA DI MARE – Corso Angelo Rizzoli, 150, Ischia. T: 081994396 26 W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015 JEWELLERY & WATCHES BOTTEGA DEL GIOIELLO – Corso Italia, 179, Sorrento. T: 0818785419 BOTTIGLIERI GIOIELLI – Corso Vittoria Colonna, 67, Ischia. T: 081984128 – www. bottiglierigioielli.it CAPRI KRONOS DI MARIO RUOCCO – Via Le Botteghe, 12, Capri. T: 0818377545 www.shop.caprikronos.com CHANTECLER – Via Vittorio Emanuele, 51, Capri. T: 0818370544 – www.chantecler.it DESIDERIO GIOIELLI – Piazza Umberto I, 17, Capri. T: 0818370011 FELUDEI – Via Dei Mulini, 19, Positano. T: 089812181 www.feludei.it GENTILE POSITANO – Via del Sarracino, 57, Positano. T: 0898123477 info@ gentilepositano.it www.gentilepositano.it SORRENTO CHE DELIZIA – Via San Cesareo, 9, Sorrento. T: 0818074702 LOCAL PRODUCTS PASSION SHOPPING CANTINE ANTONIO MAZZELLA – Wine. Via Campagnano, 2, Ischia. T: 081901541 ANTICA SARTORIA POSITANO – Sartorial. Via G. Marconi, 158/164, Positano. T: 089875089 www.anticasartoriapositano.it CAPRI RICORDI – Capri. T: 0818378803 www. capriricordi.it CERAMICA SOLIMENE – Via Madonna degli Angeli, 7, Vietri sul mare. T: 089210243 www. ceramicasolimene.it CERAMICHE ASSUNTA – Via Cristoforo Colombo, 137, Positano. T: 089875008 www. ceramicassunta.it CORNER SHOP – Via San Francesco, 21/23, Sorrento. T: 0818783322 D’AMBRA VINI – Wine. Via Mario D’Ambra, 16, Ischia. T: 081907246 COAST&ISLANDS FASHION VOGUE BEACHWEAR – Beachwear. Via Giovanni Mazzella, Ischia. T: 081908020 VOZZA – Via Fuorlovado, 38, Capri. T: 0818374010 www.graziavozza.com FATTORIA MARECOCCOLA – Via Marecoccola, 10, Sorrento. T: 0815330151 www.fattoriamarecoccola.net FISCHI D’ISCHIA – Lucky charm. Piazza Marina, Casamicciola, Ischia. T: 081994141 www. fischidischia.it IL GUSTO DELLA COSTA – Via Capriglione, 24, Positano. T: 0898131098 www. ilgustodellacosta.it ISCHIA SAPORI – Liqueurs. Via Porto, 36, Ischia. T: 081991600 – www.rucolino.it LIMONCELLO DI CAPRI – Via Roma, 79, Capri. T: 0818375561 www.limoncello.com MARYCHARLES – Souvenirs. Corso Italia, 210/b, Sorrento. T: 0818771455 www.marycharles.it BIMONTE – Cameos and coral. Via P.R. Giuliani, 62, Sorrento. T: 0818071880 – www. bimontesorrento.com BON BON – Positano fashion. Via G. Marconi, 390, Positano. T: 089875963 www.bonbonsrl.it BOTTEGA DI BRUNELLA – Positano fashion. Via Pasitea, 72, Positano. T: 089875228 BRUNELLO CUCINELLI – Cashmere apparel. Via Camerelle, 14/a, Capri. T: 0818388248 – www.brunellocucinelli.it CABIRIA – Positano Fashion. Via Pasitea, 253, Positano. T: 089812168 – www.cabiriamoda.it CARRO FASHION – Positano fashion. Viale Pasitea, 90, Positano. T: 089875780 www. fashion-positano.com CARTHUSIA – Local fragrances. Via Camerelle, 10, Capri. T: 0818370529; Corso Italia, 117. Sorrento. T: 0818075549 – www.carthusia.com ECOCAPRI – Piazzetta Ignazio Cerio, 11, Capri. T: 0818374510 www.ecocapri.com FABIANA FILIPPI – Knits. Corso Angelo Rizzoli, 148, Ischia. T: 081900472 – www.fabianafilippi. com FIORENTINO CREATION – Interior decorations. Piazza Angelina Lauro, Sorrento. T: 0818784258 www.fiorentinocreation.com NATURISCHIA – Corso Vittoria Colonna, 220 and 246, Ischia. T: 081982112 I LOVE POSITANO – Home design. Via Pasitea, 91, Positano. T: 08912199 www. ilovepositanodesign.com SERPICO – Piazza Matteotti, 14, Ischia. T: 081.997162 LA CONCHIGLIA – Artisanal products. Via Fluoro, 29, Sorrento. T: 0818774605 LEONARD – Corals. Via San Cesareo, 24, Sorrento. T: 8772923 LO SCRIGNO DI BRUNELLA – Positano Fashion. Via Mulini, 24/26, Positano. T: 0898123502 LOUISE MODA POSITANO – Positano fashion. Via dei Mulini, 22, Positano. T: 089875192 www.louisepositano.com MARILÙ – Positano fashion. Via Pasitea, 323, Positano. T: 089811229 – www.marilumoda. com MARIO LIMONE – Perfumes. Corso Italia, 212 b/c, Sorrento. T: 0815341021 www. mariolimone.it PEZZI PAZZI – Positano fashion. Via Guglielmo Marconi, 12, Positano. T: 089811141 www. pezzipazzi.it RALLO – Handcraft. Via Pasitea, 58, Positano. T: 089811711 RINO BOUTIQUE – Positano fashion. Via Pasitea, 114, Positano. T: 089812043 www. rinoboutique.it RUSTICA DOMUS – Furniture. Corso Vittoria Colonna, 155, Ischia. T: 081992100 SARTORIA FIORENTINO – Made-to-measure garments. Via Cristoforo Colombo, 29, Positano. T. 089875290 SHOES ANTONIO VIVA SANDALI CAPRESI – Via Giuseppe Orlandi, 75, Capri. T: 081.8373583 – www.sandalocaprese.it DON CATELLO – Via franco Franchi, 5, Positano. T: 089811905 http://doncatello.weebly.com/ SANDALI CORCIONE – Corso Italia, 28, Sorrento. T: 0818770600 www.sandalicorcione. com SANDALI SINISCALCHI – Corso Italia, Sorrento. T: 0818783065 – www.sandali-siniscalchi. blogspot.com GIOIELLERIA DI SOMMA – Corso Italia, 114, Sorrento. T: 0818073213 IVI GIOIELLI – Via Cristoforo Colombo, 20, Positano. T: 089811025 – www.ivigioielli.it LA CAMPANINA – Via Vittorio Emanuele, 18, Capri. T: 0818370643 www. lacampaninacapri.com LA CAPRESE – Via Vittorio Emanuele, 41, Capri. T: 0818377777 LA PERLA – Corso Vittoria Colonna, 129, Ischia. T: 081988094 www. laperlagioielliischia.it POMELLATO – Via Camerelle, 10/b, Capri. T: 0818375418 – www.pomellato.it SORRENTO GIOIELLI – Corso Italia, Sorrento. T: 0818770392 – www. sorrentogioielli.com SWAROVSKI – Corso Italia, 21, Sorrento. T: 0818771455 – www.swarovski.com THE CORAL JEWELRY – Via P.R. Giuliani, 62, Sorrento. T: 0818071880 www. thecoraljewelry.com w w w. w heretravel er. com 27 WHERE NOW | SHOPPING GIFT GUIDE The Where Team brings you some items to inspire you ▼ TRUSSARDI Via dei Mille, 30, Naples. T: 081416829 www.trussardi.com ▼ TOD’S via Calabritto, 3, Naples. T: 0817643694 www.tods.com ▲ LOUIS VUITTON Via dei Mille, 2, Naples. T: 0817646606 www.louisvuitton.it ▲ EMPORIO ARMANI Piazza dei Martiri, 61, Naples. T: 081425816 www.armani.com ▲ PRADA Via Filangieri, 26, Naples. T: 081413499 www.prada.com ▲ BULGARI Via Filangieri, 40, Naples. T: 081409551 www.bulgari.com ▼ GUCCI Via Calabritto, 4, Naples. T: 0817640730 www.gucci.com ▼ MONTBLANC Via Filangieri, 38, Naples. T: 081400057 www.montblanc.com Piazza dei Martiri, Naples 28 W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015 w w w. w heretravel er. com 29 [ FA SHI O N D E SI GNERS] Top Brands The paradise of luxury shopping in Naples and on the Coast&Islands BULGARI - The Italian creator of luxurious jewels www.bulgari.com - via Filangieri, 40, Naples. T: 081.409551. Open Mon-Fri 10am-8pm; Sat 10am-1,30pm - via Camerelle, 37, Capri. T: 0818374434. Open Mon-Sun 10am-11pm BURBERRY - An unmistakable icon of British style since 1865, the brand invented a new look and made a name for itself in the world of fashion thanks to its stylish raincoats and innovative materials. Its distinctive tartan pattern has become one of its bestknown and widely- loved symbols - www. it.burberry.com - via dei Mille 24/28, Naples. T: 081.0700180 DAMIANI - Creativity, design and entrepreneurship have been the hallmarks of the Damiani family for almost a century, combined with a profound passion for art, handed down from father to son and still apparent in the third generation that now helms the company - www.damiani.it - via Filangieri, 15 bis, Naples. T: 081.405043 - Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm8pm EMPORIO ARMANI - A leading luxury brand on the world fashion scene that designs, manufactures and distributes fashion and lifestyle products including clothing, accessories and jewellery - www.armani.com – piazza dei Martiri, 61, Naples. T: 081425816. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Corso Italia, 160162, Sorrento. T: 081.8781779 FENDI - Founded in 1925, by Edoardo and Adele Fendi, over the years, it has built up its international reputation in the fashion industry with its stunning range of haute couture and pret-a-porter collections - www. fendi.com - via Gaetano Filangieri, 24/25, Naples. T: 081.413261. Open Mon-Sat 10am2pm and Mon-Fri 4pm-8pm; via Camerelle, 8/B, Capri. T: 0818370871. Open Mon-Sun 9,30am-10pm GUCCI - Gucci’s “Made-in-Italy” style has become synonymous with elegance, sophistication and desirability - www.gucci. com - via Calabritto, 4, Naples. T: 081.7640730. Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm and Mon-Fri 4pm-8pm; via Camerelle, 25-27, Capri. T: 0818370820. Open Mon-Thur and Sun 10am10pm; Fri-Sat 10am-midnight HERMES ITALIA - Men, women and children’s clothing but also leather goods, jewellery and watches, fragrances and homeware - www.italy.hermes.com - via Gaetano Filangieri, 53/57, Naples. T: 081.4207054. Open Tue-Sat 10am-2pm and Mon-Fri 4pm8pm; via Camerelle, 43, Capri. T: 0818378957. Open Mon-Sun 10am-9pm; closed on Wed HOGAN - Not only shoes but also bags, clothing and eyewear are sold at this exclusive boutique www.hogan.com - via Gaetano Filangieri, 33, Naples. T: 081.410156. Open Mon-Sat 10am2pm and Mon-Fri 4pm-8pm; piazza Umberto I, 20, Capri. T: 0818375967. Open Mon-Sun 10am-9pm LOUIS VUITTON - A dream, an icon and a work of art. Each Louis Vuitton bag is a symbol of exemplary quality and outstanding savoirfaire - www.louisvuitton.it - via dei Mille, 2, Naples. T: 081.7646606. Open Mon-Sat 10am2pm and Mon-Fri 4pm-8pm; via Camerelle, 16/A, Capri. T: 0818376799. Open Mon-Sun 10am-10pm MAX MARA - A name associated since its inception with classic female elegance, it has always offered clean-cut, beautifully tailored lines. Its sensual yet “no frills” style has always served as its visiting card - www.maxmara. com - via Gaetano Filangieri, 69, Naples. T: 081.405900. Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm and 4pm-8pm; Sat 10am-2pm; corso Italia, 102-104, Sorrento. T: 0818782785. Open MonThur 10am-1,30pm and 5,30pm-10pm; Fri-Sun 10,30am-10pm Via Vittorio Emanuele, Capri MONTBLANC - For a century synonymous with high-class writing instruments, the brand has been known for its timeless values including quality and craftsmanship - www.montblanc. com - via Filangieri, 38, Naples. T: 081.400057. Open Mon-Fri 10am-1.30pm and 4pm-8pm PRADA - – The decor of this boutique mirrors Prada’s minimalist style to perfection – www. prada.com – Via Filangieri, 26, Naples. T: 081.413499. Open Mon-Sat 10pm-8pm; via Roma, 2, Capri. T: 0818374420. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 10am-7pm SALVATORE FERRAGAMO - The high quality of its footwear is guaranteed by attention to the construction of its lasts, unrivalled craftsmanship – www.ferragamo.com – woman piazza dei Martiri, 56, Naples. T: 081.415454; man piazza dei Martiri, 60, Naples. T: 081.412123. Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm and Mon-Fri 4pm-8pm; woman via Vittorio Emanuele, 21-29, Capri. T: 0818370499; man via Carlo Serena, 1, Capri. T: 0818376514. Open Mon-Sun 10am-9pm Via Filangieri, Naples TOD’S - Tod’s offers up handmade footwear, bags, leather goods and accessories for men and women. The essence of luxury and timeless style - www.tods.com - via Calabritto, 3, Naples. T: 081.7643694. Open Mon-Sat 10am-14pm and Mon-Fri 4pm-8pm; piazza Umberto I, 8, Capri. T: 0818376896. Open Mon-Sun 10am-9pm TRUSSARDI - Originally founded as a glove factory in 1911, this Italian lifestyle brand subsequently went on to become one of the most important brands on the world fashion stage - www.trussardi.com - via dei Mille, 30, Naples. T: 081.416829. Open Mon-Sat 10am14pm and Mon-Fri 4pm-8pm 30 W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015 Piazza Amedeo, Naples DINING ANTICA PIZZERIA PORT’ALBA – Estabilished in 1738 and located under the arch wich from Piazza Dante bring to via Costantinopoli, Port’Alba was a meeting place for artists and writers. A characteristic place to enjoy the Neapolitan pizza with the fantasy and the quality of Gennaro Luciano. Via Portalba, 18, Naples. T: 081459713 www.anticapizzeriaristoranteportalba. com ANTONIO&ANTONIO – Restaurant cum pizzeria. Diners can choose from among more than 40 types of pizza baked in a traditional wood-burning oven. Via Partenope, 26. T: 0812451987 www. antonioeantonio.net PASTA AND BEANS WITH MUSSELS. cannellini beans, oil, a few cherry tomatoes and a pinch of hot chili pepper. You can use either mixed pasta or ‘tubetti’ depending on your individual preference NAPLES INTERNATIONAL CUISINE AL MUERZO – A corner of Spain in the heart of Naples. Via Bausan, 4. T: 081425093 www.almuerzo.org AMIR – The secrets of Arab cuisine handed down by generations of women. Via Santa Chiara, 25. T: 0815527380 BELLA CINA – Japanese and Chinese cuisine. Expect top-notch roast ravioli. Calata San Marco, 15. T: 0815512308 DRAGO D’ORO – Fresh ingredients, creativity and style make this one of the best eateries of its kind. Via del Chiostro, 21/23. T: 0812135478 GIAPPO SUSHIBAR TAKEAWAY – An elegant sushi bar boasting a stylish interior and a wide selection of top-notch Japanese cuisine. Vico Belledonne in Chiaia, 2. T: 0817648465 www.giappo.com Teatro Posillipo JAP-ONE – A refined, elegant atmosphere for lovers of Oriental flavours. Via Santa Maria a Cappella Vecchia, 30. T: 0817646667 JORUDAN SUSHI – Quality and tradition for fine Japanese dining. Via Tasso, 288. T: 081 640564 A multi-purpose space that can be enjoyed seven days a week KUKAI – Classical Japanese cuisine upgraded with an innovative twist. Via Carlo de Cesare, 52. T: 081425888 LA MADRUGADA – Since 1991 tapas bar and restaurant. Via Arenella, 93, Naples. T: 3492405442 A new season and a new direction for Teatro Posillipo which, thanks to a generous investment by the Nemea group, promises to offer theatre aficionados an action-packed year of attractions consisting not only of musical events but also live concerts featuring renowned musicians, book presentations, screenings and plays. The glamorous inaugural gala dinner marking the opening of this one-of-a-kind space was attended by the Mayor of Naples Luigi De Magistris, the spokesman of the President of the Regione Campania Emilio Di Marzio and other illustrious guests who were welcomed by the new owners of the Neapolitan theatre, a team of industry professionals who, on 21 November, will treat audiences to a concert by Giuliano Palma. The theatre’s restaurant, managed by Terrazza Calabritto, has also been revolutionized and enriched by a sushi menu developed by Enrico Schettino of the renowned Giappo brand. A highly versatile, multi-functional space that can be enjoyed seven days a week. wherenaples.com How to enjoy your stay in Naples 32 W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015 DINING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERENAPLES.COM ROMEO SUSHI BAR & RESTAURANT – Top-notch sushi served in a warm, welcoming atmosphere where no detail has been left to chance. Via Cristoforo Colombo, 45. T: 0810175002 www. romeohotel.it TENDER – Located in the vibrant heart of the city, this small cosy restaurant also offers discerning diners a chance to eat sushi at lunch. Vico Santa Maria a Cappella Vecchia, 5. T: 0817643143 www. japonegroup.com PIZZA Teatro Posillipo via Posillipo 66 - Naples T. 081 7691742 www.teatroposillipo.it 50 KALÒ – Its name stems from the combination of 50, which in the Cabala stands for bread, and the Greek word Kalò, which means beautiful. Superlative pizza made by Ciro Salvo. Piazzetta Sannazzaro, 201/b. T: 08119204667 www.50kalò.it AL 22 – In a pictoresque street of Naples, in a corner of the city made of sounds and colors, in a film of Totò and Eduardo De Filippo, you meet the pizzeria “Al 22”, which titled the name of the restaurant with the number of his address. Via Pignasecca, 22, Naples. T: 0815522726 www.pizzeriaal22.it BRANDI – An icon of authentic Neapolitan pizza since1780. This was where the pizza Margherita was invented in 1889, so-called in honour of the Queen of Italy who tasted it here. Salita Sant’Anna di Palazzo, 2. T: 081416928 www.brandi.it CAPASSO – Antica Pizzeria Capasso founded in Porta San Gennaro, in the heart of via Foria is managed by the grandfather Vincenzo descending Donna Adele, who offers with his kin to the public True Neapolitan pizza according to the tradition of a great family. Via Porta San Gennaro, 2/3, Naples. T: 081456421 DA ATTILIO – The restaurant is based on Neapolitan traditional cuisine. Everybody is welcomed with kindness. One of the best pizzas is the Carnevale, designed like a star and the border stuffed with ricotta, don’t forget to ask and taste the delicious Bacetti or the big croquette. Via Pignasecca, 17. T: 0815520479 DA MICHELE – Founded in 1930, this restaurant is so traditional that it only serves pizza marinara and pizza Margherita. Via Cesare Sersale, 1/3. T: 0815539204 DI MATTEO – Famed, above all, for its fried pizza but not only. Also serves an array of other delectable fried offerings. Via dei Tribunali, 94. T: 081455262 www.pizzeriadimatteo.it FRESCO – A modern take on traditional trattorie. Diners will delight in its traditional flatware and espresso served in a glass. Via Partenope, 8. T: 0816582823 GINO SORBILLO – An entire family of pizza chefs (21 brothers committed to the art of pizza-making. An institution since the 1930s. Via dei Tribunali, 32. T: 081446643 www.sorbillo.it GORIZIA – Located in the heart of Vomero, it was founded in 1916 by Salvatore Grasso. Today the family Grasso keep up the name Gorizia, with great enthusiasm and passion, continuing to offer a high quality Neapolitan pizza according to the tradition. Via Gian Lorenzo Bernini, 29, Naples. T: 0815782248 www.gorizia1916.com GUSTO&GUSTO – “L’angolo del gusto” an offshoot of the Antonio&Antonio chain. Via Partenope, 31-33. T: 0812452662 www.gustoegusto.it LA FIGLIA DEL PRESIDENTE – Artisanal Neapolitan pizza based on time-honoured family tradition, Maria Cacialli continues to uphold the name of one of the best-known pizza chefs in Naples. Via del Grande Archivio, 23/24. T: 081286738 www. lafigliadelpresidente.it LA MASARDONA – The pizzeria helmed by Enzo Piccirillo has been a cult destination for “pizza fritta” since 1945. Via Capaccio Giulio Cesare. T: 081281057 LA NOTIZIA – Famed pizzeria owned by Enzo Coccia. Just pizza, from start to finish. Via Michelangelo da Caravaggio, 53/55. T: 0817142155 www.enzococcia.it L’ARTE DELLA PIZZA – The pizzeria was fonde by the master pizza maker Gaetano Esposito who with his son Enzo continue sto de light Neapolitans and tourists with its tasty pizza and its artistic creations made with the dough. Via Santa Maria della Libera, 5, Naples. T: 0812411907 LA TAVERNA DI BACCO – The philosophy that distinguishes La tavern di Bacco is the painstaking, ongoing search for excellence in the food and wine sector, with particular emphasis on Campanian products that make our pizzas a one-of-a-kind tasting experience. Via Sementini, 28, Naples. T: 0815466119 www.sasapizzamia.it LOMBARDI – One of the oldest pizzerias in Naples, the Lombardi family was the first to sell authentic Neapolitan pizza in the US. Established in 1892, its signature dish is “pizza fritta” topped with bacon bits and ricotta cheese. Via Foria, 12. T: 081456220 NON SOLO PIZZA – Is a take away pizzeria infused with a welcoming, cozy atmosphere. The basic ingredients of Marco’s pizza include love, passion, high-quality ingredients and the famous water of the Nitrodi springs. Piazza SS. Immacolata, 7, Forio d’Ischia. T: 0810123841 OLIVA CONCETTINA AI TRE SANTI – Traditional Neapolitan pizza. Premium quality, freshly sourced ingredients. Via Arena alla Sanità, 3. T: 081444166 www.pizzeriaoliva.it PIZZERIA BORBONICA – It proposes True Neapolitan Pizza in a friendly atmosphere of the ancient Napoli. The secret of its success is the professionalism and the use of high quality products. Via Egiziaca a Pizzofalcone, 99/100, Naples. T: 0810322495 STARITA – Established in 1901, this trattoria, also renowned for its deep-fried snacks, made an appearance in L’oro di Napoli (1954), a film starring Sofia Loren. Via Materdei, 27. T: 0815441485 www. pizzeriastarita.it TRIANON – Founded in 1923 by the Leones, a husband and wife team, it is renowned for its big “a ruota del carretto” pizza. Via Pietro Colletta, 44/46. T: 0815539426 RESTAURANTS ANTICA OSTERIA DA TONINO – Heirloom osteria featuring a wood interior, a wall covered with celebrity photos and simple home cooking. Via Santa Teresa a Chiaia, 47. T: 081421533 ‘A TAVERNA DO RE – Francesco Parrella upgrades traditional favourites while ensuring that they retain all of their original flavours. Fondo Supportico di Separazione, 2/3. T: 0815522424 CANTINA SAN TEODORO – Owned by Mimmo Alba, this small corner of paradise boasts just five tables. Flavours from Sicily and Campania combine to create dishes boasting a unique, inimitable flavour. Vico Satriano, 12. T: 08118990558 www.cantinasanteodoro.it CARMNELLA – Thanks to years of experience and a passion for pizza and typical Neapolitan cuisine, each day, thanks to a careful selection of only the finest ingredients, the venue offers fresh, high-quality, authentic Neapolitan fare. A passion for art, the pride of a lifetime! Via Cristoforo Marino, 22/23, Naples. T: 081 5537425 [email protected] CIRO A SANTA BRIGIDA – It’s an elegant restaurant located in a unique position, deep in the tranquility of one of the historical areas of the city of Naples. It is the ideal place to enjoy true Neapolitan pizza, fresh seafood dishes and classic cuisine. Via Santa Brigida, 71/73. T: 0815524072 www.ciroasantabrigida.it CRU…Do RÈ – The art of raw fish. Its interiors are inspired by the marine world. Piazza Vittoria, 11/12. T: 0817645295 www.crudore.it DA ETTORE – Since 1914, this epic trattoria has been serving classic Neapolitan fare. Via Gennaro Serra, 39. T: 0817643578 ECOMESARÀ – An array of tantalizing, sought-after dishes and a welcoming ambience combine to make diners feel completely at home. Via S. Chiara, 49. T: 08119259353 www.ecomesararistorante.it w ww ww. w.w wheretravel heretraveler. er.com com 33 33 DINING DINING VESPA FOOD TASTING TOUR COAST&ISLANDS NEW! AGLIO, OLIO E POMODORO – Via Luigi Mazzella, 84, Ischia Ponte. T: 08119143460 www. aglioolioepomodoro.com Opening ALBERTO – Lungomare Cristoforo Colombo, 8, Ischia. T: 081981259 www.albertoischia.it AL CONVENTO – Via Luigi Mazzella, 63, Ischia. T: 081991335 www.ristorantealconvento.com AL CONVENTO – Piazza San Francesco, 16, Cetara. T: 089261039 www.alconvento.net AL GROTTINO – Via Longano, 27, Capri. T: 0818370584 www.ristorantealgrottino.net >> An original, immersive experience amidst alleyways, aromas, guided tasting sessions and memorable meetings with pizza makers, pastry makers and local artisans to learn about the secrets of their art and the history of the famed gastronomic tradition of Naples. An opportunity to discover unknown places and savour the best culinary specialities of Naples on board either a Vespa or a vintage Fiat 500, accompanied by expert drivers and bi-lingual city guides. Daily. Booking required. Duration: 4 hours www.napolinvespa.it A’ PARANZA – Via Dragone, Positano. T: 089871840 www.ristoranteparanza.com ATTIMO DI VINO – Via Porto, 103/105, Ischia. T: 08119528411 NATURASÌ Galleria Vanvitelli, 7/9, Naples T: 08118893010 - 08118893011 www.naturasi.it GRAN GUSTO – A market, restaurant, wine bar and bar. A gastronomic hub where gourmands can sample premium-quality products and experience a true love of cuisine. Via Marina, 5. T: 08119376800 www.gran-gusto.it LA TAVERNA DEL BUONGUSTAIO – Simple wooden tables and chairs, wax table cloths and a low-fuss, white tiled dining room. Serves a delightful array of daily specials. Vico Basilio Puoti, 8. T: 0815512626 IL CELLAIO – The ideal spot to eat high-quality meat, savour fine wines and discover sought-after cheeses. Via Carlo Poerio, 54. T: 0817641380 www.ilcellaio.com LA TAVERNA DELL’ARTE – Don Alfonso re-proposes ancient 17th century recipes at this pretty, homely restaurant. Rampe San Giovanni Maggiore, 1. T: 081552758 LA CAMPAGNOLA – Typical Neapolitan cuisine since1946. Designed to seat up to about 50 diners, it has been spruced up with local art and offers a number of lip-licking pasta dishes. Via Tribunali, 47. T: 081459034 LA CANTINELLA – Founded in 1976 by Giorgio Rosolino, its name has become a byword with gourmands in the know. Via Cuma, 42, Santa Lucia. T: 0817648684 www.lacantinella.it LA CHITARRA – A dozen tables, terracotta flooring, a guitar on the wall and a warm welcoming atmosphere. This cosy osteria dishes up traditional food prepared with local, strictly seasonal ingredients. Rampe San Giovanni Maggiore, 1 b. T: 081 5529103 www.osterialachitarra.it LA STANZA DEL GUSTO – Quirky, brightly-coloured tables and chairs decorate the dining room whose walls are covered with large blackboards featuring famous quotes and thoughts for the day. Via Costantinopoli, 100 T: 081401578 www. lastanzadelgusto.it LE COLONNE – The ideal setting for a cuisine that does not escape the challenges of the great dishes of Italian and international cuisine, as well as offering typical dishes from Campania. Viale G. Douhet, 7, Caserta. T: 0823467494 www.lecolonnemarziale.it LEON D’ORO – Tradition, meticulous service and innovation are the key words of its cuisine. Piazza Dante, 48. T: 0815499404 LOCANDA ‘NTRETELLA – Set within the heart of the Spanish District, it tempts diners into a warm, typically Neapolitan atmosphere. Salita S. Anna di Palazzo. T: 081427783 www.locandantretella.it MATTOZZI EUROPEO – Traditional Neapolitan cuisine since 1930. Not only the finest Mediterranean cuisine and pizza but also courteous, highly attentive service. Via Marchese Campodisola, 4/8. T: 0815521323 www.mattozzieuropeo.com MIMÌ ALLA FERROVIA – Established in1944 by Emilio Giugliano (Mimì) and his wife Ida. This no-frills trattoria was formerly patronized by the likes of Totò, De Filippo and Federico Fellini. Via Alfonso D’Aragona, 19/21. T: 0815538525 www. mimiallaferrovia.it NAPOLI MIA – Welcoming, elegant and low-key: a style reflected in its cuisine boasting delectable, mouth watering dishes where no detail has been left to chance. Riviera di Chiaia, 269. T: 0815522266 www. ristorantenapolimia.it OSTERIA LA MATTONELLA – Just one room adorned by long wooden tables and benches. Its walls are covered with old, hand-painted Neapolitan tiles. Via Nicotera, 13. T: 081416541 FRIARIELLI. Turnip tops and a variety of the broccoli family. Often cooked in a pan, the steam given off by their water is sufficient to cook them. An excellent accompaniment to sausages. ROSIELLO – Founded in1933 by Gelsomina Rosiello, its time-honoured recipes have been handed down from generation to generation. Via Santo Strato, 10. T: 0815752341 www.ristoranterosiello.it TERRAZZA CALABRITTO – A not-to-be-missed experience: authentic dishes and flavours further enhanced by one of the most beautiful views 34 W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015 in Italy. Piazza Vittoria, 1. T: 0812405188 www. terrazzacalabritto.it TRATTORIA DELL’OCA – Refined yet relaxed, this welcoming trattoria celebrates beautifully cooked classics upgraded with an innovative twist. Via Santa Teresa a Chiaia, 11. T: 081414865 www. trattoriadelloca.it UMBERTO – Umberto’s menu is rich and varied with its main section built on traditional Neapolitan recipes. Seasonal variations are made throughout the year, the traditional Neapolitan pizza menu and the exquisite family atmosphere all form part of the Umberto identity. Via Alabardieri, 30. T: 081418555 www.umberto.it VALÙ – Standouts at this charming, low-key restaurant featuring soft lighting and live music are char-grilled meat, risotto and an astute selection of fine wines. Vico Lungo del Gelso, 80. T: 0810381139 www.valu.it VERITAS RESTAURANT – Only serves products of Campanian origin. Corso Vittorio Emanuele, 141. T: 081660585 www.veritasrestaurant.it ZI’ TERESA – Frescoed walls and ancient majolica-tiled floors. This delightful venue boasts an evocative terrace overlooking the wharf of Santa Lucia. Via Borgo Marinari, 1. T: 0817642565 www.ziteresa.it FRY SHOPS ANTICA FRIGGITORIA SPACCANAPOLI – Its fried food is served in a classical “coppetiello”, a paper cone designed to absorb excess fat. Via Benedetto Croce, 42. T: 3473357240 CHIPSTAR – Only fresh, Dutch potatoes cut and fried while you wait. More than 16 garnishes. Via Scarlatti, 186. FIORENZANO – Renowned for all types of fried fare. Via Pignasecca, 14. T: 3497810146 FRIGGITORIA VOMERO – Owned by the Acunzo family, this legendary snack bar makes some of the best deep-fried snacks in town. Via Cimarosa, 44. T: 0815783130 TUTINO – Famed for its “a libretto” (folded) pizza. Via della Solitaria, 34. T: 0817645259 AURORA – Via Fuorlovado, 18-22, Capri. T: 0818370181 www.auroracapri.com AURORA – Piazza Tasso 10/11, Sorrento. T: 0818781248 www.pizzeriaaurora.com BAGNI D’ARIENZO – Via Arienzo, 16, Positano. T: 089812002 www.bagnidarienzo.com BAGNI DELFINO – Via Marina Grande, 216, Sorrento. T: 0818782038 BAGNI TIBERIO – Palazzo a Mare, 46, Capri. T: 0818377688 www.bagnitiberio.com BAIA DEL CLIPPER – Via Porto, 48, Ischia. T: 0813334209 www.ristorantelabaiadelclipperischia. com BARRACUDA – Via Campagnano, 62, Ischia. T: 081902046 www.ristorantebarracuda.it BELLEVUE SYRENE – Piazza della Vittoria, 5, Sorrento. T: 0818781024 www.bellevue.it BIANCO SUSHIBAR – Piazza Angelina Lauro, 38, Sorrento. T: 0818074551 www.biancosorrento.com BRUNO – Via Colombo, 157, Positano. T: 089875392 www.ristorantebruno.org BUCA DI BACCO – Via Longano, 35, Capri. T: 0818370723 BUCA DI BACCO – Via Rampa Teglia, 4, Positano. T: 089875699 www.bucadibacco.it CAMERA E CUCINA – Via Correale, 19, Sorrento. T: 0818773530 www.cameraecucina.it CAPRI GARDEN – Via Roma, 50, Capri. T: 0818370003 CAPRI’S – Via Roma, 38, Capri. T: 0818377108 www. capris.it CASA E BOTTEGA – Via Pasitea, 100, Positano. T: 089875225 CHANTECLER’S – Via Santa Maria della Pietà, 38, Sorrento. T: 0818075868 www.chanteclers.com CHEZ BLACK – Via del Brigantino, 19/21, Positano. T: 089875036 www.chezblack.it COCÒ – Piazzale Aragonese, Ischia. T: 081981823 COVO DEI SARACENI – Via Regina Giovanna, 5, Positano. T: 089875878 www.covodeisaraceni.it DA CICCIO – Via Luigi Mazzella, 32, Ischia. T: 081991686 DA COSTANTINO – Via Corvo, 107, Positano. T: 089875738 www.dacostantino.net DA GABRISA – Via Pasitea, 221, Positano. T: 089811498 www.vilagabrisa.it DA GAETANO – Via Delle Ginestre, 27, Ischia. T: 081991807 www.pizzadagaetano.it DA GELSOMINA – Via Migliara, 72, Anacapri, Capri. T: 0818371499 www.dagelsomina.com Where offers you the 10 rules to learn to recognize the Real Neapolitan Pizza. Here is the seventh. THE SEVENTH RULE FOR RECOGNIZE THE REAL NEAPOLITAN PIZZA The pizza should be round, with a diameter non greater than 35 cm, the crust has to be puffed up, while the center has to be max 4 mm thick. Discover the ten rules to recognize real Neapolitan pizza at www.wherenaples.com DA GIGINO – Via degli Archi, 15, Sorrento. T: 0818773446 www.dagigino.com DA GIOIA – Località Marina Piccola, Capri. T: 0818377702 www.dagioiacapri.com LA FIGLIA DEL PRESIDENTE A Temple of Neapolitan Pizza DA GIORGIO – Via Roma, 34, Capri. T: 0818375777 www.dagiorgiocapri.com DA LEOPOLDO – Via Scannella, 12, Forio, Ischia. T: 081907086 www.ristorantedaleopoldo.it D’AMORE – Via Fuorlovado, 36, Capri. T: 0818370665 www.damorecapri.com DA PAOLINO – Via Palazzo a Mare, 11, Capri. T: 0818376102 www.paolinocapri.com DA PEPPINA DI RENATO – Via Montecorvo, 42, Forio, Ischia. T: 081998312 www.trattoriadapeppina.it DA TONINO – Via Dentecala, Capri. T: 0818376718 DA VINCENZO – Viale Pasitea, 172/178, Positano. T: 089875128 www.davincenzo.it DIVINA SORRENTO – Piazza Sant’Antonino, 18, Sorrento. T: 0818781883 DONNA RACHELE – Via Padre Serafino Cimino, 2bis, Capri. T: 0818375387 www.donnarachele,com DON PEDRO – Via Nastro Verde, 77, Sorrento. T: 0818073910 www.ristorantedonpedro.it È DIVINO – Via Sella Orta, 10/A, Capri. T: 0818378364 www.edivinocapri.com EDODÈ – Via Camerelle, 83, Capri. T: 081838 8252. www.edodecapri.com FARAGLIONI – Via Camerelle, 75, Capri. T: 0818370320 www.faraglioni.com Cacialli’s family is one of the best known in the pizza; Maria is the daughter of Ernesto, the pizza maker who prepared the pizza for Bill Clinton. She manages a place of rustic atmosphere and elegant at the same time. Don’t miss the fried and the other pizza, all rigorously prepared at the time. >> Via Grande Archivio 23/24 80138 - Napoli Phone +39 081.081286738 www.lafigliadelpresidente.it PIZZERIA GORIZIA Eating well is a tradition FLUORO – Via Fluoro, 21/23, Sorrento. T: 0818774840 FUNICOLARE – Piazza Armando Diaz, Capri. T: 0818370363 GIARDINO EDEN – Via Nuova Cartaromana, 68, Ischia. T: 081985015 www.giardinoedenischia.it GIORGIO AL CUCCIOLO – Via La Fabbrica, 52, Anacapri, Capri. T: 0818371917 GRADOLA – Via Gradola, Anacapri, Capri. T: 0818382326 www.gradolacapri.com I GIARDINI DI TASSO – Via Santa Maria della Pietà, 30, Sorrento. T: 0818074145 IL BORGO – Via Nastro Verde, 44/46, Sorrento. T: 0818781827 www.ristoranteilborgo.it IL BRACCONIERE – Via Falanga, Serrara Fontana, Ischia. T: 081999436 IL BUCO – Seconda rampa Marina Piccola, 5, Sorrento. T. T: 0818782354 www.ilbucoristorante.it IL GERANIO – Via Giacomo Matteotti, 8, Capri. T: 0818370616 www.geraniocapri.com IL GIARDINO DEGLI ARANCI – Corso Vittoria Colonna, Ischia. T: 081991150 www. giardinodegliaranci.it The pizza is the queen of the menu but you can also enjoy the first dish home-made, the local fresh fish and all the flavors of the region. You will be conquered by our pastas cooked in a wood oven. These are just some of the specialties that we offer to our customers in a friendly atmosphere and family. >> Via Albino Albini, 18/20 (Trav. Via Cilea) 80127 – Napoli Tel: +39 081.5604642 www.pizzeriagorizia.it w w w. w heretravel er. com 35 [DINING] DINING IL LEONE ROSSO – Via Marziale, 25, Sorrento. T: 0818073089 www.illeonerosso.it LE AGAVI – Via Marconi, 127, Positano. T: 089875733 www.agavi.it POSA POSA – Viale Pasitea, 165, Positano. T: 0898122377 www.hotelposaposa.com IL MELOGRANO – Via G. Mazzella, 110, Ischia. T: 081998450 www.ilmelogranoischia.it LE GOURMET À LA CARTE – Lungomare C. Colombo, 23, Ischia. T: 081991544 POSEIDON – Via Pasitea, 148, Positano. T: 089811111 www.hotelposeidonpositano.it IL MONASTERO – Castello Aragonese, Ischia. T: 081992435 www.albergoilmonastero.it LE GROTTELLE – Via Arco Naturale, Capri. T: 0818375719 PULDÌ – Via degli Aranci, 13 b/c, Sorrento. T: 0818074038 IL PIRATA – Via Terramare, Praiano. T: 089874377 www. ristoranteilpirata.net LE GROTTELLE – Via Zatri, 3, Sorrento. www. agriturismosorrentolegrottelle.com IL POZZO – Via Tasso, 32, Sorrento. T: 0818774876 www.ilpozzoristorante.it PUPETTO – Via Fornillo, 35, Positano. T: 089875087www.hotelpupetto.it LE SIRENE – Via Spiaggia Laurito, 24, Positano. T: 089811580 www.lesirenepositano.com IL QUISI – Via Camerelle, 2, Capri. T: 0818370788 www. quisisana.com LE TERRAZZE – Via Grotte dell’Incanto, 51, Positano. T: 089875874 www.leterrazzerestaurant.it IL RICCIO – Via Gradola 4/6, Loc. Grotta Azzurra. Anacapri, Capri www.capripalace.com LE TRE SORELLE – Via del Brigantino, 27, Positano. T: 089875452 www.ristoranteletresorelle.it IL RITROVO – Via Montepertuso, 77. Loc. Montepertuso, Positano. T: 089812005 www.ilritrovo. com LIDO DEL FARO – Località Punta Carena, Capri. T: 0818371798 www.lidofaro.com IL SARACENO D’ORO – Via Pasitea, 254, Positano. T: 089812050 www.saracenodoro.it IL SOLITARIO – Via G. Orlandi, Anacapri, Capri. T: 0818371382 www.trattoriailsolitario.it IL TORCHIO – Via Campagnano, 135, Ischia. T: 081901986 www.hotelristoranteiltorchio.it ISIDORO – Via Roma, 19, Capri. T: 0818377252 www. isidorocapri.com KUKAI CAPRI – Via Listrieri, 7, Capri. T: 0818370498 www.kukai.it LA BASILICA – Via Sant’Antonino, 28, Sorrento. T: 0818774790 www.ristorantelabasilica.com L’ABATE – Piazza Sant’Antonino, 24, Sorrento. T: 0818072304 www.labatesorrento.it LA CAMBUSA – Piazza Vespucci, 4, Positano. T: 089812051 www.lacambusapositano.com LA CANZONE DEL MARE – Via Marina Piccola, 93, Capri. T: 0818370104 www.lacanzonedelmare.com LA CAPANNINA – Via Le Botteghe, 14, Capri. T: 0818370732 www.capanninacapri.com LI GALLI – Viale Pasitea, 318, Positano. T: 089875655 www.villafrancahotel.it LO GUARRACINO – Via Positanesi d’America, 12, Positano. T: 089875488 www.loguarracino.net RENDEZ VOUS – Via Camerelle, 4, Capri. T: 0818370788 www.quisisana.com RICCIULILLO – Lungomare Cristoforo Colombo, Ischia. T: 081993679 www.ricciulillo.it RUCCIO – Piazza Marinai d’Italia, Sorrento. T: 0818074069 www.ristoranteruccio.com SACRO E PROFANO – Via Tasso, 53, Sorrento. T: 08119004857 www.sacroeprofanosorrento.it SANTA CROCE – Via Nocelle, 19, Positano. T: 089811260 www.ristorantesantacrocepositano.com L’OLIMPO – Via Falanga, 7, Serrara Fontana, Ischia. T: 081999566 SOUL&FISH DA CATALDO – Via Marina Grande, 202, Sorrento. T: 0818782170 www.ristorantedacataldo.com LO SCOGLIO DELLE SIRENE – Via Mulo, 77, Capri. T: 0818370221 www.loscogliodellesirenecapri.com SPICY – Via Capo, 82, Sorrento. T: 0818079063 www. hotelspicy.com LO SMERALDO – Via Marina Grande, 12, Capri. T: 0818375072 SQUARE – Piazza Angelina Lauro, 47, Sorrento. T: 0818074744 L’OSTRICARO – Via Porto, 40, Ischia. T: 081981845 www.ristoranteostricaro.it STELLA MARIS – Via della Regione, 2, Capri. T: 089872463 LO ZODIACO – Piazzetta Angelo Ferraro, 2, Capri. T: 0818376332 www.lozodiacocapri.com TASSO – Via Correale, 11, Sorrento. T: 0818785809 www.ristorantetasso.com LUIGI AI FARAGLIONI – Via Faraglioni, 5, Capri T: 0818370591 www.luigiaifaraglioni.com TAVERNA ALLEGRA – Via Santa Maria della Pietà, 30, Sorrento. T: 0818784221 www.tavernallegra.com LUNA – Viale Matteotti, 3, Capri. T: 0818370433 www. lunahotel.com TERRAZZA BOSQUET – Piazza Tasso, 34, Sorrento. MAMMA GIOVANNA – Via Chiusarano, 6, Capri. T: 0818372057 TERRAZZA BRUNELLA – Via Tragara, 24, Capri. T: 0818370122 www.terrazzabrunella.com TERRAZZA MARZIALE – Piazza F.S. Gargiulo, 2, Sorrento. T: 0818074406 www.terrazzamarziale.com LA COLOMBAIA – Via Camerelle, 2, Capri. T: 0818370788 www.quisisana.com MAMMÀ – Via Madre Serafina, 11, Capri. T: 0818377472 www.ristorantemamma.com LA FONTELINA – Via Faraglioni, Capri. T: 0818370845 www.fontelina-capri.com MARINCANTO – Via Colombo, 50, Positano. T: 089875130 www.marincanto.it TERRAZZA TIBERIO – Via Croce, 11/15, Capri. T: 0819787850 www.capritiberiopalace.it LA LANTERNA – Via San Cesareo, 23, Sorrento. T: 0818781355 www.lalanternasorrento.it MICHEL’ANGELO – Via Sella Orta, 10, Capri. T: 0818377220 TORRE NORMANNA – Via Diego Taiani, 4, Maiori. T: 089877100 www.torrenormanna.net L’ALTRO VISSANI – Via Longano, 3, Capri. T: 08118990575 www.laltrovissanicapri.it MONZÙ (PUNTA TRAGARA HOTEL) – Via Tragara, 57, Capri. T: 0818370844 www.monzucapri.it TORRE SARACENA – Via Marina Piccola, Capri. T: 0818370646 www.torresaracenacapri.com L’ANTICA TRATTORIA – Via P.R. Giuliani, 33, Sorrento. T: 0818071082 www.lanticatrattoria.com MUSEO CARUSO – Via S. Antonino, 12, Sorrento. T: 0818073156 www.ristorantemuseocaruso.com TRITONE – Via Campo, 5, Positano. T: 089874333 www.tritone.it L’ARCA – Via Ciglio, 144, Serrara Fontana, Ischia. T: 081904226 www.ristorantelarca.it NAIMA LOUNGE BAR – Via P.R. Giuliani, 45, Sorrento. T: 0818781425 www.naimaloungebar.it UN PIANO NEL CIELO – Via Capriglione, 17, Praiano. T: 0898131333 www.unpianonelcielo.it LA SPONDA – Via Colombo, 30, Positano. T: 089875066 www.sirenuse.it NEXT 2 – Viale Pasitea, 242, Positano. T: 0898123516 www.next2.it VELA BIANCA – Via Marina Piccola, 11, Sorrento. T: 0818781144 www.ristorantevelabianca.com LA TAGLIATA – Via Tagliata, 22, Positano. T: 089875872 www.latagliata.com ‘O CANONICO 1898 – Piazza Tasso, 7, Sorrento. T: 0818783277 www.ristorantecanonico.com VERDEMARE – Via Capo, 70, Sorrento. T: 0818782589 www.ristoranteverdemare.com LA TAVERNA DEL LEONE – Via Laurito, 43, Positano. T: 0898123168 www.latavernadelleone.com ‘O CAPURALE – Viale Regina Giovanna, 12, Positano. T: 089811188 www.ocapuralepositano.com VILLA RUBINACCI – Via Correale, 25, Sorrento. T: 0818073357 www.villarubinacci.it LA TERRA – Via Tagliata, 14, Positano. T: 089811179 www.ristorantelaterra.com ‘O MURZILL – Via dell’Accademia, 17, Sorrento. T: 0810202371 www.omurzill.blogspot.it LA TINAIA – Via Matteo Verde, 39, Forio, Ischia. T: www. ristorantelatinaia.it ‘O PURTICCIULL – Rive Droite, Ischia. T: 081993222 www.porticciullo.it LA TONNARELLA – Via Capo, 31, Sorrento. T: 0818781153 www.latonnarella.com PALAZZO MURAT – Via dei Mulini, 23, Positano. T: 089875177 www.palazzomurat.it LA VELA BIANCA – Via Marina Piccola, 11/13, Sorrento. T: 08187881144 www.ristorantevelabianca. com PAOLINO – Via Palazzo a Mare, 11, Capri. T: 0818376102 www.paolinocapri.com LA VIGNA DI ALBERTO – Via Garibaldi, 57, Ischia. T: 081901193 PETER’S BEACH – Via San Francesco, Marina Piccola, Porto di Sorrento. T: 0818781879 www.petersbeach. com 36 W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015 VILLA VERDE – Vico Sella Orta, 6/A, Capri. T: 0818377024 www.villaverde-capri.com WINE DARK HOUSE – Via del Saracino, 6/8, Positano. T: 089811925 ZI NANNINA – Lungomare Cristoforo Colombo, 18, Ischia. T: 081991350 www.zinannina.com ZI’NTONIO – Via Luigi De Maio, 11, Sorrento. T: 0818781623 www.zintonio.it Typical products of the Sannio A trip in discovery of ancient flavours The Sannio is an ancient area rich in valleys and hills covered with olives groves and vineyards interspersed with small towns. Here traditions and genuine country cooking have withstood the test of time. The area boasts a wide array of enogastronomic products renowned for their time-honoured qualities whose virtues have been passed down from generation to generation. PIETRAROJA HAM Naturally dried at 830 metres and seasoned with black pepper and hot chili pepper, it is ideal as a bite-sized appetizer. Lightly salted and aromatized, it has a particularly soft texture. Its slightly smoked flavour depends on the essences used during the smoking procedure ww.prosciuttoilpietraroja.it STREGA LIQUEUR Made from herbs, it has been produced since 1860 by the Strega Alberti Distellery in Benevento using a secret recipe. Its yellow color comes from the presence of saffron in its recipe. It has a 40% alcohol content and is made using some 70 different herbs, including mint and fennel. THE NOUGAT OF SAN MARCO DEI CAVOTI A crunchy blend of prime quality almonds and hazelnuts covered with an ultra-fine dark chocolate. This delicacy is a true precursor of the small hazelnut-filled chocolate renowned throughout the world under the ‘Baci’ trademark www.borrillo.it ARTICHOKES FROM PIETRELCINA Tender and boasting a sweet, delicate flavour, these artichokes are used to prepare any number of mouth watering dishes. The plant produces buds known as ‘carducci’ which are in great demand especially at Christmas because they serve as the main ingredients of a local dish known as ‘il cardone’. LATICAUDA PECORINO It takes its name from the breed of sheep with whose milk it is made. It has a hard, firm rind, yellowy-orange in colour. Its body is tender and ivory-white in colour. It has a mouth-filling, slightly tangy flavour and an intense pungent nose. This type of cheese is best eaten when mature. WINE Aglianico, Piedirosso, Falanghina, Coda di Volpe, Fiano and Moscato di Baselice are just some examples of Sannio’s wine-growing heritage. Ten thousand hectares of vineyards, three DOC and one IPG (Protected Geographic Indication) for more than sixty types of wines which make the province of Benevento a leader in Campania’s wineproducing sector www.sanniodop.it ZIQÙ – Via Provinciale Marina Grande, 191, Capri. T: 0818376630 www.villamarinacapri.com w w w. w heretravel er. com 37 DINING | WINE EMOTION THE MOST REPRESENTATIVE LABELS occasions during which there innate elegance and intensity can be savoured to the full. Why not try them, for example, as connoisseurs do in France, with cheese or fatty calves liver, or even as an aperitivo option. First and foremost, a sweet wine should not be too sweet. It should be fresh and have the kind of complexity that makes one want to drink it. However, very few sweet wines actually have these characteristics! As always, everything starts in the vineyard. Not all varietals are suited to making a noble sweet wine. Not only must the grapes must be extremely healthy but often wine-makers do not have the certainty that they will be able to be produced on a yearly basis owing to the complex production process involved. Having said this, to preserve the acid backbone of the grapes, it is necessary to harvest them or cut their shoots (so that they begin to shrivel on the vine) at exactly the right moment: either early or on several occasions. The rest depends on the techniques employed at the winery: the slow, natural drying process of the grapes designed to increase the sugar concentration, the style of vinification and the use of specific types of wood. Lastly, the ageing process in bottles which helps them develop more complexity. Our sweet wine should be served in a Sweet Campania The best sweet wines of the region should be drunk in smaller glasses in order to allow us to savour their bouquets and linger (read meditate) over their elegance T small glass with a narrow mouth, so that its bouquet can be savoured to the full. Il Sasso di Riccardo Il Fastignano Contrary to common belief, not all sweet wines are white. For example, a sweet, fullbodied, original sweet red wine is produced from the black Casavecchia grape. The varietal has mysterious origins: some identify it with the grape that gave life to the ancient Trebulano, considered one of Italy’s finest wines by Plinius. The Casavecchia-based Sasso di Riccardo di Terre del Principe is a truly delicious wine that pairs well either with the Conciato Romano pecorino cheese, made specifically to be paired with it by the beautiful Le Campestre agritourism, or with other types of soft cheeses. Fastignano, a highly original Passito made from Primitivo grapes is only produced very rarely, not only for the small quantity of juice which can be obtained from the grapes, but also for the difficulties found during production, from vineyard to the bottle. Antonio Papa has made a creed of the selection of the grapes of this varietal which is powerful and particularly well-suited to the production of sweet wines. Fastignano is sweet but not overwhelmingly sugary, a meditation wine boasting a strong personality. A gourmand companion to be drunk either on its own or paired with chocolate profiteroles or a slice of Sacher Torte. Il Privilegio A perfect example of freshness, balance and drinkability. The Privilegio produced by Feudi di San Gregorio, one of Irpinia’s premier winemaking estates with headquarters in Sorbo Serpico and vineyards scattered throughout Campania, instantly wins over connoisseurs with its elegant, transparent bottle which contains a clear, yellow gold liquid. The luminosity of this sweet wine made primarily from Fiano grapes is proportionate to its taste. Rich, sweet and fragrant yet balanced with acidity, it has a delightfully clean finish. This wine can either be paired with the area’s traditional Christmas Susamielli cookies or with a Caciocavallo cheese, matured in caves in Irpinia. Giardini Arimei A complex wine-making project conceived by an enologist who loves Ischia, his birthplace of origin. Made from Biancolella, Forastera and Uva Rilla grapes, this ‘ wine from the area of ‘hot springs’ is an original gem. Never sweet, Giardini Arimei, produced on the Island by the Muratori family, shows how unexpected tastes can be obtained from harvesting grapes at different times of the year. It is sweet but also dry, extremely well-balanced and highly versatile when it comes to pairings. As suggested by pastry maker Claudio Mignone or Executive Chef Mario Avallone it serves as a perfect accompaniment to either renowned Neapolitan cake - pastiera napoletana - or fresh Cacio cheese. his month we will be focusing on a category of truly special wines, also known as meditation wines. We are here referring to sweet wines, i.e. those commonly drunk at the end of a meal. Sadly, I must confess that, in Italy, these wines are not as fully appreciated as they should be. This is especially true of the South whose hot climate tends to increase their sugar and alcohol content. Southerners are not particularly fond of sweet wines. In fact, as far as the Neapolitans are concerned, the best accompaniment to a dessert is coffee! Each wine has a sense as long as it can be paired with Monica Piscitelli food and wine blogger 38 W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015 something. If we only consider drinking sweet wines as an accompaniment to dessert, we tend to limit the number of w w w. w heretravel er. com 39 ENTERTAINMENT DINING Five star flavors The top restaurants of five star hotels in Naples and on the Coast&Islands HOTEL BELMOND CARUSO, BELVEDERE – Renowned for its excellent menu featuring fresh Mediterranean specialities, the Belvedere restaurant has an elegant dining room, a beautiful terrace and an outdoor area, near the swimming pool, surrounded by an old rose garden. Chef Mimmo di Raffaele amazes diners with his delectably refined creations. Piazza San Giovanni del Toro, 2, Ravello. T: 089858800 www.hotelcaruso.it and delicacy of its marine surroundings. Lungomare C. Colombo, 23, Ischia. T: 081.991544 www.puntamolino.it GRAND HOTEL VESUVIO, CARUSO – Dedicated to Enrico Caruso, a loyal patron of the hotel who liked to define it as “my Neapolitan home” and who spent the last years of his life here after his return to Naples. Via Partenope, 45, Naples. T: 081.7640044 www.vesuvio.it HOTEL IL MORESCO, LA PERGOLA – Mediterranean flavours are exalted by a light, sophisticated cuisine, CAESAR AUGUSTUS, LA TERRAZZA DI LUCULLO – A created thanks to the use of authentic ingredients date with infinity: a spectacular swimming pool, a table distinguished by a highly sought-after delicate flavour. for two and beyond, only the sea, the Gulf of Naples and Via Gianturco, 16, Ischia. T: 081.981355 www.ilmoresco.it Vesuvius. Via G. Orlandi, 4, Anacapri, Capri. HOTEL ROMEO, IL COMANDANTE – At this gourmet T: 081.8373385 www.caesar-augustus.com restaurant, hints of the East and Mediterranean flavours DON ALFONSO 1890 – In a stunning 19th century blend harmoniously in the menu prepared by Michelin Neapolitan palace, the design-inspired ambience of starred Chef Salvatore Bianco. Via Cristoforo Colombo, 45. the restaurant features a vibrant colour palette exalted T: 0810175001 www.romeohotel.it by the natural light of the Mediterranean sea. Corso HOTEL ROMEO, SUSHI BAR & RESTAURANT – Guests Sant’Agata, 11-13, Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi. can either dine at the restaurant’s gorgeous arabesque T: 081.8780026 www.donalfonso.com marble counter or at their own private tables. Suffused GRAND HOTEL COCUMELLA – The hotel offers guests lighting, ivory and ebony chopsticks, silverware, bone two restaurants: the “Agrumeto”, nestling amidst orange china and crystal glassware are just some of the groves and the various botanical rarities of the age-old exclusive elements that heighten the dining experience. park surrounding it and the “Scintilla”, where diners The menu features authentic Japanese cuisine prepared can savour all the flavours of traditional Mediterranean according to time-honoured culinary techniques. Via Cristoforo Colombo, 45, Naples. T: 08101175001 www. cuisine in a warm, intimate atmosphere. Via Cocumella, romeohotel.it 7, Sant’Agnello, Sorrento. T: 081.8782933 www.cocumella.com HOTEL TERME MANZI, IL MOSAICO – Renowned Chef Nino Di Costanzo tempts diners into an atmosphere of GRAND HOTEL EXCELSIOR TERME – A stylish, elegant rare elegance with his classical Ischian and Campanian restaurant surrounded by a large panoramic terrace. A fare upgraded with an innovative twist. Piazza Bagni, perfect blend of superior-quality ingredients and refined 4, Casamicciola Terme, Ischia. T: 081994722 www. culinary techniques. Via E. Gianturco, 19, Ischia. termemanzihotel.com T: 081.991522 www.excelsiorischia.it GRAND HOTEL EXCELSIOR VITTORIA, TERRAZZA BOUSQUET – The Terrazza Bosquet Restaurant headed up by Michelin starred Chef Luigi Tramontano offers an elegant combination of regional and Mediterranean cuisine, using fresh, local produce including a variety of citrus fruits from the hotel’s own orange grove. Piazza Tasso, 34, Sorrento. T: 0818777836 www.exvitt/bousquet GRAND HOTEL PARKER’S, GEORGE – Situated on the roof garden of the Grand Hotel Parker's in Naples, George offers a stunning view over the Gulf, sophisticated, stylish decor and a creative menu. Corso Vittorio Emanuele, 135, Naples. T: 081.7612474 www.grandhotelparkers.it GRAND HOTEL PUNTA MOLINO TERME, PUNTA MOLINO – A romantic restaurant overlooking the sea whose decor and materials mirror the coolness IL BUCO – A sought-after, elegant atmosphere featuring traditional tastes and flavours upgraded to create innovative, delicious dishes. Seconda rampa Marina Piccola, 5, Sorrento.T: 0818782354 www.ilbucoristorante.it Chef Andrea Migliaccio creates cuisine in a modern interpretation of the traditional flavours of the regione. Via Capodimonte, 2/b, Anacapri (Na). T: 0819780111 www.capripalace.com HOTEL LE SIRENUSE, LA SPONDA – Boasting 1 Michelin star, in the evening this restaurant is illuminated by four hundred candles. Its cuisine is based on the quality of locally sourced ingredients and is inspired by Mediterranean tradition. Via San Sebastiano, 2, Positano. T: 089875066 www.sirenuse.it HOTEL REGINA ISABELLA, INDACO – A gourmet restaurant where the innovative, creative cuisine of chef Pasquale Palamaro pays a new tribute to the culinary tradition of Campania, cited in the 2013 Michelin guide. Piazza Santa Restituta, 1, Lacco Ameno, Ischia. T: 081.994322 www.reginaisabella.com HOTEL SAN PIETRO, ZASS – At this venue featuring a spectacular view over the town of Praiano and the coast, Chef Alois Vanlangenaeker serves an array of delectable dishes accompanied by an excellent selection of fine wines. Via Laurito, 2, Positano. T: 089875455 www.ilsanpietro.it LA SCALINATELLA HOTEL – Typical Capri fare served at the edge of the swimming pool with a stunning view over the Bay of Marina Piccola. The Maitre offers the dishes of the day, always prepared using fresh, locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. Via Tragara, 8, Capri. T: 081.8370633 www.lascalinatella.com MEZZATORRE RESORT E SPA – The hotel has two restaurants: the “Chandelier”, sophisticated and intriguing, and Sciuè”, offering fabulous sunset views over the Ischian sea and the swimming pool. Via Mezzatorre, 23, Forio d’Ischia. T: 081.986111 www.mezzatorre.it PARCO DEI PRINCIPI, Ristorante GIO PONTI – The restaurant extends over a large, seaview terrace from which diners can enjoy a stunning view over the Gulf of Naples. Via Rota, 44, Sorrento. T: 081.8784644 www.royalgroup.it/parcodeiprincipi IL FARO DI CAPO D’ORSO – A small gem boasting interiors decorated with hand-painted majolica ceramics PALAZZO AVINO, ROSSELLINIS – The recipient of 1 and a breathtaking view. Via D. Taiani, 48, Maiori (Sa). T: Michelin stars, Palazzo Avino is considered one of the 089877022 www.ilfarodicapodorso.it most evocative and romantic venues on the Amalfi Coast. Via San Giovanni del Toro, 27, Ravello. HOTEL CAPRI PALACE, IL RICCIO – In a Mediterranean www.palazzoavino.com atmosphere, sitting at blue wooden tables, you can have lunch and dinner almost every hour of the day. The VILLA CIMBRONE, IL FLAUTO DI PAN – Chef Giovanni restaurant is awarded with one star in the 2013 Michelin De Vivo has created an outstanding Mediterranean Guide. Via Gradola, 4/6, loc. Grotta Azzurra, Anacapri, menu featuring innovative flavours and a hint of the East Capri. www.capripalace.com designed to delight the palates of discerning diners. Via Santa Chiara, 26, Ravello. HOTEL CAPRI PALACE, L’OLIVO – Is the only restaurant T: 089857459 www.villacimbrone.com on the island to be awarded with two Michelin stars. 40 W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015 Welcome to the Naples Zoo! It is one of the oldest zoological gardens in Italy. Home to more than 400 animal species, it is also a botanical garden and a recreational centre for families O pened to the public in 1949, the Naples Zoo was one of the first zoological gardens in Italy to welcome visitors. Situated in the city centre, in Fuorigrotta, the Zoo hosts more than 400 animal species, including various species in danger of extinction. Here you can admire Samiango, lemurs, tigers, parrots, binturong, camels, zebras and Chital deer but also lots of birds, including emus, ostriches, grey crowned cranes, pink flamingoes and stalks. Inside, an educational farm allows children to get close to and pet all sorts of farm animals including geese, rabbits, goats and other domestic animals. The zoo is also a botanical garden, a park brimming over with Mediterranean vegetation and exotic species including Ginko Biloba of Chinese origin, boasting small, fan-shaped leaves but also various Magnolia SPP species, of Chinese, Japanese and American origin and bamboo originating from Asia. And then again, near the lake, visitors can admire Casuarina Equisetifolia, a she-oak species whose foliage consists of slender branches and hanging fruit resembling conifer cones. Additionally, near the area housing the lions, you will also find Cinnamomum Camphora, commonly known as the Camphor tree, a large evergreen tree that grows up to 20–30 m tall. The Naples Zoo is also an important recreational centre, especially for families and children. Moreover, it plays a significant role in terms of educating people about nature and the environment, with projects dedicated to scientific research and the preservation of biodiversity. One such example is its ‘Adopt an animal’ initiative which offers people the possibility of adopting an animal from the Zoo, thus giving them an opportunity to come into close contact with their favourite animal species: an intelligent way of teaching children about nature and instilling them with a sense of love for animals. Other highlights include gardens, play areas and loads of entertainment for young and old alike. Via John Fitzgerald Kennedy, 76, Naples. T: 08119363154 >> www.lozoodinapoli.it wherenaples.com How to enjoy your stay in Naples w w w. w heretravel er. com 41 ENTERTAINMENT ENTERTAINMENT AND TASTING EXPERIENCES ENTERTAINMENT here to enjoy its piano bar, disco and occasional cabaret acts, partying till late. Via Parco Margherita, 13. T: 081407526 www.chezmoi.it SCENES FROM AN ARCHIVE CLANDALU’ - A terrace overlooking the historic Galleria Navarra. Credit for its inviting atmosphere and soft music go to its charming owner Alfredo. Featuring authentic, home-cooked fare, it has hosted meetings, presentations and art exhibitions since 1997. Piazza dei Martiri, 23. T: 0812452398 66 FUSION BAR - It still retains the name of the former antique shop in which it is now housed. The Fusion cocktail bar is a real hit, loved for its endless list of aperitivi. Furnished with low sofas and soft lighting, it offers a wide choice of cold cuts and excellent wines. Via Bisignano, 58. T: 081415024 – www.66napoli.it CLU COFFEE&FOOD - A welcoming, cosy tea room by day, as evening approaches, it is transformed into a trendy venue where the beautiful people gather to enjoy either an aperitivo or an afterdinner glass of rum. Its real attraction is its restaurant with open-plan kitchen boasting an array of gastronomic delights and an excellent selection of fine wines. Via Carlo Poerio, 47. T: 0817641576 www.clunapoli.com AIAHII – One of the most exclusive venues in the city. Low-key, elegant, minimalist decor, featuring a prevalence of steel, glass, teak tables, original lamps, ornamental plants and a predominantly white colour scheme. Offers a meat and fishbased menu, an array of international cocktails, an excellent selection of rum and whiskey and an astute selection of wines. Via Coroglio, 146. T: 3924811308 ARENILE RELOAD – Established in 1994 as the first club in Naples with a dance floor overlooking the beach, Arenile Reload is set against a breathtaking backdrop further enhanced by chic design elements and a playlist of the latest hits. In the morning, it serves as an elegant beach club with on-site amenities including a beach and a lawn with a swimming pool, bar and refreshment area. As the sun sets, it is transformed into a “viby” location offering top-notch aperitivi and live performances by artists of international renown. Via Coroglio, 14/b. T: 0810199156 www. arenilereload.com AZAR CAFÉ – Snack bar, delicatessen, bakery, bar and tea room. Surrounded by a beautiful garden, in the pedestrian area of Vomero, Azar cafè is a meeting place for quiet and relaxing, ideal for business meetings or for mothers with children looking for a safe place while enjoying a good cup of coffee. Via Scarlatti, 139 – T: 0815780248 BARFLY – Formerly an old tuft quarry, this newly revamped restaurant and bar is the perfect place to enjoy an aperitivo or fab cocktail while nibbling on an array of delectable finger foods. Barfly was designed by architect Demo Ciavatti, known for restructuring several of the most famous venues on the Romagnola Riviera. Via Mergellina, 6 T: 081.660023 – www.dugout.it BELLAVIA – In 1925, Antonio Bellavia relocated from Palermo to Naples, bringing with him the scents, colours and flavours of a region known for its gastronomic culture. He soon began titillating several of the city’s most refined palates with cassata, cannoli and other specialities, a tradition that has been carried forward with unerring passion by the fourth generation of the family who currently run the business. Capodichino Airport. T: 0815991603 www.pasticceriabellavia.it BIRDY’S BAKERY – Its colonial decor provides a light, welcoming ambience, perfect for those wishing to take a pit stop while enjoying a great cup of coffee. Signature pastries include brioches, ENOTECA BELLEDONNE - Established in1989 by Giovanni and Maria Scognamiglio as “Vini e Oli”, their offspring Antonio and Ciro subsequently transformed this old wine cellar into one of Naples’ best-loved wine bars where you can relax, gossip and enjoy a glass of well-chosen, mostly Italian wine. Vico Belledonne a Chiaia, 18. T: 081403162 www.enotecabelledonne.com An unique performance staged by a company of young actors who re-enact one episode that played a key role in the history of the city of Naples, namely the Republic of 1799. In “La Repubblica di Utopia”, two love affairs are intertwined with the tragic episodes of this historic event and two women, Luisa Sanfelice and Serafina Vargas, reclaim their right to building an ideal nation based on the empowerment of women. This ‘never-seen-before’ performance is the result of research conducted on documents housed in the Archives and were written on an exclusive basis for the Archive itself. 19-20 November. Admission free, booking required. Archivio Storico Banco di Napoli. via Tribunali, 213, Naples. T: 3396235295 crumbles, cupcakes, plum cakes, brownies, muffins and speciality cakes. Vico Belledonne a Chiaia, 14b. T: 0814976400 CAFFÈ ARABO – A good spot at which to sample tea, Arab sweet treats and a Middle-Eastern nibble or two. At Caffè Arabo you can experience a truly oriental atmosphere while smoking a hookah. In summer, it hosts gastronomic events accompanied by dance displays and poetry readings from different parts of the world. Piazza Bellini, 72, Naples. T: 3398828120 CAFFÈ DEL PROFESSORE – At this cafè located in one of the city’s most elegant districts you can taste dozens of different coffee blends: from fennel to basil-flavoured coffee, from croccantino coffee to its famous rich hazelnut cream coffee and, naturally, traditional Neapolitan espresso. Piazza Trieste e Trento, 46. T: 081403041 www. ilverobardelprofessore.com CAKE APPEAL – A small pastry shop with a big reputation serving made-to-order cakes, cupcakes, macarons, cakepops, cookies, brownies, red velvet, cheesecake and apple pie. The first American bakery of its kind in Campania and Naples. Via Cavallerizza, 40. T: 08119255750 www.cakeappeal.it CAMBIOVITA– Cafeteria, frullateria, health food store, take-aways, Slow fast food, but also a meeting place where you can breathe the air of the house. A place to take a break and take care of yourself sipping tea, herbal tea or a smoothie made with all biological products. Via Carlo Poerio, 100/a T: 08119570395 www.cambiovitastore.it CARRATURO – Now helmed by the fifth generation, this time-honoured pastry shop continues to defend its heritage, history and the goodness of its origins. Its present owners, Ulderico and Alessandro, jokingly refer to 42 W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015 FANTASIA GELATI – Few gelaterie can boast better cream-based flavours produced with passion and painstaking attention to locally sourced ingredients. House specialities include fruitflavoured sorbets and its brand new innovative ice cream made from buffalo milk, characterized by its authentic flavour and wholesome nutritional properties. Five Fantasia Gelati sales points are scattered throughout the city. Via Toledo, 381. T: 0815511212 www.fantasiagelati.it themselves as simple “sfogliatellari”. Via Casanova, 97. T: 0815545364 www.carraturo.it CASA INFANTE – The Infante family began to titillate the palates of Neapolitans in the 1940s with their “tarallo mandorle e pepe”. In the ‘90s they enlarged their production to focus on highquality patisserie, subsequently increasing their number of sales points. Today Casa Infante offers top-notch products and artisanal ice cream just waiting to be savoured. Via Chiaia, 189. T: www. casainfante.it GALLERIA 19 – This cool edgy club draws a uni crowd and young Neapolitan locals. Set in a long, cavernous cellar scattered with recycled furniture dating back to the ‘60s and ‘70s and industrial lamps, the venue is also home to one of the city’s best mixologists. Expect a warm, oldworld atmosphere. Via San Sebastiano, 18/19. T: 08119810100 www.galleria19.it CHALET CIRO A MERGELLINA – This iconic seaside chalet has been pulling in the punters since its establishment in 1952. Boasting a tradition handed down from generation to generation, it has nevertheless also embraced innovation to become one of the most renowned chalets in Campania. Listed in several of the most authoritative tourist guides, it sells everything from coffee and pastries to crepes but the real reason to head here is for brioche con gelato, a sweetened bun stuffed with ice cream and topped with a dollop of cream. Via Mergellina. T: 081669928 CHANDELIER - Visual arts exhibitions, themed parties, live music, arts and crafts and jewellery displays. At this stylishly furnished venue everything is done with a certain flair including its delightful red and black colour scheme. Its atmosphere is cosy and low-key thanks to the soft, diffused lighting given off by the chandeliers and wall lamps from which it takes its name. Vico Belledonne a Chiaia, 34/35. T: 081414576 CHEZ MOI - One of the most renowned hot spots in the city, its exclusive clientele and posh decor make Chez Moi the place to visit. Featuring all the characteristics of a private club, designers, socialites and football stars, mostly over 25, come GAY ODIN – By now synonymous with auteur chocolate, it is impossible to pass this shop without taking in the heady aromas of Gay Odin’s artisanal cocoa creations displayed with panache in its shop window. Must-trys include its typically Neapolitan chocolate “cozze” (mussels), chocolatecoated coffee beans and fiery chili-chocolate combo. The venue has as many as ten sales points scattered throughout the city. Via V. Colonna, 15/b. T: 081418282 www.gay-odin.it © EMILIA CHIARA SCOGNAMIGLIO ANHELO CAFÉ’ & BISTROT – Offers simple, inventive, high-quality food including range of classic, regional dishes updated with a innovative twist, featuring fresh, seasonal ingredients. Anhelo is a cafè cum bistrot. Also boasts a small food emporium. Via Bisignano, 3 – T: 081.402432 www. anhelo.it squares in Naples and still retains all of its dreamy, Belle Époque-like aura intact. A great place for a classy coffee break. Via Chiaia, 1/2, corner of piazza Trieste and Trento. T: 081417582 www. caffegambrinus.com GRAN CAFFÈ LA CAFFETTIERA – The favourite haunt of businessmen and chic shoppers, this elegant venue is renowned for its high-class Neapolitan pastries and gastronomy. Boasting elegant design elements where no detail has been left to chance, it is patronized by the crème de la crème of Neapolitan society. Piazza dei Martiri, 26. T: 0817644243 www.grancaffelacaffettiera.com IL BARETTO – A landmark venue situated in one of the city’s most scenic areas, standouts include its iconic “scherzetto” cocktail, made with rum, pear juice and strawberry syrup poured into two glasses, one inside the other, to be drunk like a shot, i.e. all at once and its Acai special, a fruit pulp sorbet, powdered guaranà, royal jelly, ice and ginseng. Via Aniello Falcone, 300 b/c. T: 0815603200 IL FICO – This discotheque is set within a splendid 19th century villa. Complete with inside rooms, welcoming private areas and a large terrace with a view over the Gulf of Naples, it is the perfect place to celebrate at all times of the yea. Via Tasso, 466. T: 081640146 www.discotecailfico.it INTRA MOENIA - Founded in 1989 next to the Greek-Roman walls of piazza Bellini, from which the venue takes its name, i.e. intra moenia or “inside the walls”. A stylish, elegant venue offering food and wine, Intra Moenia also hosts exhibitions, literary events, concerts and poetry readings. Piazza Bellini, 70. T: 081451652 LA GARÇONNE - The perfect place to spend an evening in the company of friends either savouring the superb cuisine prepared by its chef or enjoying an after-dinner drink animated by live or disco music. Vico S. Maria a Cappella Vecchia, 10. T: 0817643826 www.lagarconne.it LA MELA - One of the oldest night club in Naples, it has been going strong for the past 30 years. A favourite with the Neapolitan elite, people come here not only to dance but also to see fashion shows or book presentations. Via dei Mille, 40bis. T: 081410270 www.lamelaclub.it LA SCIMMIA – Synonymous with high-quality ice cream since 1933, in addition to its myriad flavours, other must-trys include its frothy desserts and traditional mini ice creams. Also serves gluten-free products for celiacs. Piazza Carità, 4; piazzetta Nilo, 4. T: 0815520272 www.gelateriadellascimmia.it LA TASCA - A cosy, intimate wine bar where you can listen to soft, piped music. Also has a few outdoor tables and an Internet point. Vico Belledonne a Chiaia, 6. T: 08119362635 LAZZARELLA – A landmark venue of the Neapolitan “movida”. Open until late at night, it serves breakfast, snacks, lunch and a fine aperitivo spread in the evening from around 7pm. Calata Trinità Maggiore, 7/8. T: 0815510005 L’EBBREZZA DI NOÈ – A brasserie-wine bar combo. Only has a few tables but more than 1,200 fab bottles. Better known for its reds than its whites. Vico Vetriera, 9. T: 081400104 www.lebbrezzadinoe. com LE CIRQUE NAPLES – The first cafè-chantant in Italy has just launched in the spaces of the foyer of the iconic Salone Margherita. Le Cirque is a coffee bar, a theatre, an art gallery and an entertainment venue. It also features a bistrot restaurant. Via Santa Brigida, 65. T: 0815511756 www.lecirquenaples.com LEONE – A Liberty-style venue boasting a white and pastel green colour scheme. Its walls are adorned with old photographs. Its pastry chefs start working at 4am to turn out their delectable creations. Leone exudes an aura of old-world charm and is renowned for its authentic, simple ingredients. Riviera di Chiaia, 61. T: 081681542 LEOPOLDO - One of the most prestigious brands of Neapolitan pastries, synonymous with all the goodness and supreme quality of an array of different products, ranging from sweet treats to cakes, from fresh pasta to small gourmand delicacies, a true labour of love! Via Toledo, 8. T: 0815512909; via Vittoria Colonna, 46/47. T: 081416161 www.leopoldoinfante.it LA TRAVIATA GRAN CAFFÈ CIMMINO – A warm welcoming place designed to make you feel good at all times of the day. Its artisanal workshop turns out authentic, high-quality, mouth watering goodies, cakes and cocktails. Try its buffet selection, high-class homemade ice cream and authentic Neapolitan coffee. via Filangieri, 12. T: 081418303 GRAN CAFFÈ GAMBRINUS – Since 1860 Caffè Gambrinus has served as the literary salon of the city. Formerly one of the favourite haunts of crowned heads, politicians, journalists, academics and artists of international renown, including the likes of Oscar Wilde and Benito Mussolini. A Liberty-style jewel of architectural note, this venerable café sits in one of the most beautiful Giuseppe Verdi’s opera in three acts set to an Italian libretto by Francesco Maria Piave returns to enthrall audiences at Teatro San Carlo. Based on ‘The Lady of the Camellias’, a play adapted from the novel by Alexandre Dumas, it is part of a ‘popular trilogy’ which includes “Il Trovatore” and “Rigoletto”. The version staged at San Carlo is directed by Ferzan Ozpetek, with co-direction by Marina Bianchi. Scenery by Dante Ferretti and costumes by Alessandro Lai. From 3 to 13 November Teatro San Carlo. Via San Carlo, 98, Naples. T: 0817972331 www.teatrosancarlo.it w w w. w heretravel er. com 43 ENTERTAINMENT MADAME BONBON - A haven of handmade chocolates but not only. Its upper floor houses a welcoming tea room where in addition to an assortment of delectable sweet treats you can also sip a cup of hot chocolate, tea or other beverages. When the shop closes, you can also book a romantic, chocolate-based dinner while listening to the soft, soothing notes of a violin. Vico Satriano, 4. T: 08119567440 www.madamebonbon.it MARSHAL - Its stylish interior, where no detail has been left to chance, plays on the cold shades of white and steel combined with the warm, voluptuous shapes of Rococò furniture. Japanese cuisine, cocktails, drinks, good wines and a great selection of music. Vico Belledonne, 12. T: 3381458610 MOCCIA – Established in 1941, this bakery cum patisserie offers an array of delectable goodies. The venue is famed for its tiny, must-try pizzas whose recipe is a close-guarded secret. Other specialities include dainty strawberry tartlets, caramelized bignè and traditional Neapolitan pastries. Each day, at lunch, its rosticceria attracts a hungry business crowd. Via San Pasquale, 21/23. T: 081411348 MOMAH - Reminiscent of one of the most important contemporary art museums in the world, namely the Museum of Modern Art (MoMa) in New York, it will thrill your senses with its steel finishes, black and white décor and innovative lighting system ENTERTAINMENT which creates a trendy ambience. Via Vito Fornari, 15. T: 081422334 www.momah.it MOSTRA D’OLTREMARE - One of the largest fairgrounds in Italy and, together with Bari’s Fiera del Levante, the largest in Southern Italy. It extends over a surface area of 720,000 square metres and incorporates buildings of significant historical and architectural importance, state-of-the-art pavilions, fountains (including the monumental Esedra Fountain), a tropical aquarium, gardens hosting a wide array of arboreal species and an archaeological park. Used to host trade shows, congresses and events. Viale Kennedy, 54. T: 0817258000 www.mostradoltremare.it MOTUS – A corner of Manhattan in Naples, this venue is open from 7am to midnight. In between, in addition to breakfast, you can stop in for a snack, eat a pastry, sip an aperitivo, eat lunch, listen to music or watch the news. Besides fabulous homemade icre cream and mouth watering pastries, it also offers a minimalist bistrot corner. Piazza Municipio, 5/6. T: 0815520262 www. motusinweb.it MOUSE - Spread out over three floors, it features a colour scheme based on shades of green and electric blue. Its minimalist decor and casual, fun feeling make it a destination venue for lounge culture enthusiasts. Via San Giovanni Maggiore Pignatelli, 45. T: 0815518663 NAIS - Here you can read, purchase books, sip a cup of coffee or savour a delicious glass of wine. Don’t miss its Sushi evenings with live music. Also has an Internet point. Via Giuseppe Ferrigni, 29. T: 0816580466 PALAPARTENOPE - A modern building used to host events, competitions, concerts, performances, festivals and gala evenings. Designed to accommodate up to 6,000 people. Via Barbagallo, 115 - T: 0815700008 www.palapartenope.it PEPITA JAZZ - Top-level jazz and a good offer of food and wine but also art exhibitions, cabaret, themed Irish and Cuban evenings and wine and rum tastings. Its signature dishes include soups, fondues, cold cuts and cheese platters. Via Martucci, 39. T: 360629808; 3333821301 PESCHERIA MATTIUCCI – On Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays, this landmark fishmonger offers some of the best Mediterranean seafood and raw fish dishes in town accompanied by a good selection of fine wines and champagnes. Vico Belledonne a Chiaia, 27. T: 0812512215 www.pescheriamattiucci.com PINTAURO – One of the oldest pastry shops in Naples, it has been turning out the region’s renowned “sfogliatella” since 1785, considered among the best in the city. Don’t miss a chance to sample it while strolling through the historic centre: crispy perfection for even the most discerning palates. Via Toledo, 275. T: 081417339 CURATED BY FEDERALBERGHI NAPOLI TIP Customer satisfaction: a tool for tourists and hoteliers to guarantee a better service T he best way to offer a good but also the pages of social networks and for hotel managers who thus have a chance product? To listen to customer intermediaries are a precious work tool to determine not only the negative aspects expectations. A philosophy that can which, if handled professionally, become of the customer experience but also those be applied to numerous sectors including an excellent means of detecting efficiency of the city in order to offer a better, more tourism. Nowadays, all hoteliers must have or inefficiency. Thanks to data collection, appealing product. an in-depth understanding of customer operators can, for example, tap into the expectations and, as a consequence, traditions, customs and habits of a customer, increasingly focus on a policy of customer based on his/her nationality. Obtaining satisfaction. feedback about a tourist’s spending power, Tourists are invited to dedicate just a culinary tastes, clothing or sightseeing few minutes to filling out a form that preferences means satisfying his/her will give members in the hospitality expectations. The result? Not only will industry a chance not only to survey their tourists keep coming back but they will requirements but also to learn about any also serve as the number one promotional problems or negative aspects encountered vehicle of the city. during their stay. Customer satisfaction is therefore a tool that In a world in which web reputation assumes not only makes tourists feel better protected an increasingly important role, the tourist’s because they have the power to judge the opinion is ‘law’. Therefore, questionnaires services received but also one that is useful 44 W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015 SCATURCHIO – A time-honoured pasticceria and a true “temple of taste”, this cult destination is a must for gastronomes and lovers of tradition. An institution in the art of pastry-making for real connoisseurs of taste. A city tradition for more than a century, you’ll find an array of local classics ranging from coffee to aperitivi, from sweet treats to savoury delicacies. Piazza San Domenico Maggiore, 19. T: 0815517031 www.scaturchio.it S’MOVE - One of the most evocative musical food bars in Naples. Bulbous lamps and futuristic wall panels create plastic effects that are mirrored in the curved elements of its beautiful bar counter and in its light reflected onto it mosaic, mother-of-pearl tiles. An aperitivo hot spot in Naples, DJs spin out an array of jazz, funk and electro music. Vico Sospiri, 10. T: 0817645813 SUGAR QUEEN - A world of sweetness, color and creativity that involves all five senses, and where dreams turn into reality. Sugar Queen, the Queen of Cakes is a laboratory of high quality confectionery, design view, specialized in making custom cakes of all kinds. Raw materials of superior quality and aesthetic perfection of the cake design. Via Carlo Poerio, 42. T: 08119138422 www.sugarqueen.it UPSTROKE – This venue represents a launch pad for countless emerging musicians. It is patronized by people of all ages who have a passion for music. Tuesdays are given over to jam sessions. Via Coroglio, 128. T: 3294211510 VINARIUM - A welcoming wine bar cum trattoria, Vinarium boasts one of the city’s best-stocked wine cellars (850 Italian and foreign bottles) and culinary specialities inc cheese fondues and cosmopolitan meat dishes. Also offers a fab selection of grappas. Via Cappella Vecchia, 7. T: 0817644114 THEATRES AUGUSTEO - One of the most famous theatres in Naples, it is known for its big-budget performances including musicals, plays, comedies, dance and prose. It is also home to the Carlo Buccirosso actors’ school - piazzetta Duca d’Aosta, 263 - 081.414243 and 081.406698 - www.teatroaugusteo.it BELLINI - One of the most beautiful theatres in the city, it can be visited during the day. Visitors can clamber up its narrow staircase leading to its small rehearsal room hosting billboards of old performances patiently collected by Tato Russo, one of the greatest actors and playwrights in Italy - via Conte di Ruvo, 14 - 081.5491266 - www. teatrobellini.it GALLERIA TOLEDO - Set within the heart of the Spanish Districts, it is known on the Neapolitan theatre scene for its contemporary, experimental works and also stages pieces by well-known international playwrights - via Concezione a Montecalvario, 34 - 081.425824 TEATRO MERCADANTE - It opened in 1779 as the ‘Teatro del Real Fondo di Separazione’, with comic operas sung mainly in Tuscan. The theatre was later used by Gioachino Rossini who became the music director of the royal theatres, Giovanni Pacini and Gaetano Donizetti. After a period of relative inactivity, in 1871 it was renamed the Real Teatro Mercadante – piazza Municipio – 081.5510336 – www.teatrostabilenapoli.it TEATRO NUOVO - Shakespeare, Beckett and Pasolini are just some of the playwrights whose work has been showcased here. An extremely modern theatre, It provides a stage for emerging European writers and is known for its innovative approach and experimental works - via Concezione a Montecalvario, 16 - 081.425958 www. nuovoteatronuovo.it TEATRO POSILLIPO - An offshoot of the historic landmark Posillipo cinema - a reference point since the 1950s for cinema buffs - the Posillip Theatre is a versatile, elegant location and events space set against the charming backdrop of the Posillipo hill. Via Posillipo, 66 – www.teatroposillipo.it TEATRO SAN CARLO - One of Naples’ crown jewels, the San Carlo Theater is the Oldest Opera House in Europe. Built 41 years before La Scala in Milan and 55 years before la Fenice in Venice, its design was the model on which many, and if you ask a Neapolitan, all other Opera Houses would follow. Built for King Charles III in 1737, it was inaugurated on his name day or onomastico. With its 3,300 seats and pitch perfect acoustics, it quickly became the venue of the masters and the dream of the hopefuls, making Naples the music capital of Europe - via San Carlo, 98 - 081.7972331 - www. teatrosancarlo.it COAST & ISLANDS AFRICANA FAMOUS CLUB - A unique, evocative haunt, an accordion player hidden amidst the rocks, a black band, illustrious guests like Jackie Kennedy and Gianni Agnelli. For years, the Africana has been the setting for “La Dolce Vita” on the Amalfi coast. Via Terramare, 2, Praiano. T: 089874858 www. africanafamousclub.com AL MONASTERO - The perfect place for a pit-stop, it features a terrace garden with tables set amidst bougainvillea, broom, jasmine and verbena overlooking the ruins of the Cathedral dell’Assunta, in the bay of Sant’Anna. Castello Aragonese, Ischia. T: 081992435 ANEMA E CORE - Situated in the vicinity of the famous Piazzetta, amidst prestigious boutiques and luxury hotels, this stylish gem is tucked away behind an “almost” hidden door, the entrance of one of the most highly patronized and renowned venues on the Capri nightlife scene. An exclusive, age-old wine bar, where Guido Lembo, a spokesman for the Faraglioni throughout the world, entertains guests on the Island of Capri from midnight to dawn. Via Sella Orta, 1, Capri. T: 081.8376461 T: 329.4742508 www.anemaecorecapri.it BLUNIGHT - An atmospheric location with a great vibe. Blunight is one of the most elegant and attractive discotheques in the area. Cala di Puolo, via Partenone, 31, Massalubrense. T: 3384138123; 3382227911; 3392547000 CALISE – Since the Sixties, Calise has been a meeting place either for an aperitivo or dessert. While sitting in its stunning garden, guests can spend a relaxing evening listening to traditional Neapolitan songs. Offers a wide selection of cakes (more than 50) and biscuits. Piano bar entertainment every evening. Piazzale degli Eroi, Ischia. www.barcalise.it CAMERA E CUCINA - A restaurant cum art gallery. A place where one eats Italian but talks all the languages of the world. A hub of entertainment where you will discover a host of intriguing worlds and a diverse culinary landscape in an evocative welcoming garden bar. Via Correale, 19, Sorrento. T: 081.8773530 www.cameraecucina.it CIRCOLO DEI FORESTIERI - A favourite haunt with tourists from all over the world, in addition to its breathtaking panorama, it also offers all the flavours and specialities of the Sorrento Coast. Via Luigi de Maio, 35, Sorrento. T: 081.8773263 www. circolodeiforestieri.com CONWINUM – Jazz, food, wine and art, sensual pairings that involve all of the senses in an elegant venue, entirely decorated with Vietri ceramics and lava stone tables. Offers live music and a piano bar thoughout the week and live music on Saturday. This venue, owned by Elio Rispoli, serves food prepared by the “Don Alfonso 1890” restaurant and features works of art lent by gallerist Antonio Miniaci. Via del Brigantino, Positano. T: 089811461 EXCTASY - A nightspot and piano bar situated in the heart of Ischia offering great live music. Corso Vittoria Colonna, 97. Ischia. T: 081.982569 FAUNO - A landmark nightclub in Sorrento which, since the 1950s has been a meeting place and destination venue for tourists, fashionistas and Campania jet-setters. The dance floor can be accessed by an illuminated stairway covered by a red carpet that anticipates the dominant colour of the club. Piazza Tasso, Sorrento. T: 081.8781021 GIARDINO DEGLI ARANCI - An old tavern set against a magnificent natural backdrop, with its marvellous plants and the architecture of the “palazzi” surrounding its garden are further enhanced by the warm welcome given by patron Andrea Impagliazzo and the flavours of its high-end cuisine which make it a “must-visit” destination for tourist. Corso Vittoria Colonna, Ischia. T: 081.991150 www.giardinodegliaranci.it JANE - Since the very beginning it has been a cult destination for celeb tourists. It glass-fronted side walls mean that you can dance while enjoying a fabulous view over the sea and small, adjacent beach. Via Pagoda, Ischia. T: 08119515130 LA CAPANNINA PIU’ – Offers a great selection of wines, bubbly and distillates but also honey, balsamic vinegar, superb olive oil and a rich array of gift and wine-related accessories. Via Le Botteghe, 39, Capri. T: 0818378899 www.capanninacapri.com MUSIC ON THE ROCKS - For 40 years, one of Europe’s original superclubs, patronized by show biz celebs and international film icons. It is considered one of the most evocative locations in the world. Via Grotte dell’Incanto, 51, Positano. T: 089.875874; 331.7210076 www.musicontherocks.it ‘O SPASSO – A discotheque located within the heart of the popular Bar “Calise”, of which it is an integral part. This exclusive stylish venue stages live music and cabaret entertainment and caters to a fashionable set. This legendary nightspot attracts punters of all ages. Via E. Cortese (corner of Piazza degli Eroi), Ischia. T: 081.881270 www.barcalise.com VALENTINO - Set against one of the most evocative, trendiest backdrops in Ischia, Valentino is considered a temple of entertainment and good music and is currently the hottest disco on the Island. Corso Vittoria Colonna, 97, Ischia. T: 081982569 w w w. w heretravel er. com 45 WHERE NOW | ENJOY NAPLES The Lungomare of Pozzuoli Serapis temple, Pozzuoli From Pozzuoli to Baia, from the thermal baths to nightspots right up to guided tours of Solfatara and Rione Terra, here are Where’s picks of unmissable night time experiences SIGHTSEEING B Pozzuoli is the most important centre of the looked more than 2,000 years ago: an open-air pools rich in precious natural elements that help volcanic area that extends North-West of Naples (the term Phlegrean nightlife scene. Its clubs are a go-to museum featuring the entire history of Pozzuoli. rejuvenate the body. The Stufe di Nerone are ‘Phlegrean derives from the Greek word Flegraios and means destination for young people in search of relaxing (www.rioneterra.it). located in Bacoli and boast more than 20 hot and ‘burning’). An area of outstanding geological interest, it is atmospheres, fun and good food. Its most Another highly evocative experience is a night tour cold springs. Other on-site amenities include a renowned for its beautiful lakes and cultural treasures. Here, popular places include the Lungomare and the of the crater of Solfatara, one of the forty volcanoes semi-Olympic swimming pool, heated to 35°C, for example, you will come across several must-see landmark port, packed with loads of vibrant nightspots: comprising the Phlegrean Fields, located at a also open in winter, and an indoor swimming attractions including Capo Miseno, the largest military port of ancient Rome, small restaurants serving deliciously fresh fish, distance of some three kilometers from the centre pool, heated to 40°C, whose energized warm the Greek city of Cuma, the Parco Archeologico Sommerso in Baia, with wine bars, sandwich bars and pizzerias. For those of Pozzuoli: experienced tour guides enlighten waters relax tight muscles and stimulate the its villas and temples lying below sea level and the Rione Terra in Pozzuoli, in search of a unique experience we suggest a visitors about its history, scientific background and release of endorphins. On Tuesdays, Thursdays and with its Roman town unearthed during an excavation campaign. These and guided tour of the underground world of Rione mythology as they lead them up to its fumaroles Fridays, the ‘Stufe’ remain open until 11pm (www. many other natural treasures make the Phlegrean Area a sought-after tourist Terra, an evocative archaeological site dating where fresh blue fish, accompanied by a delicious termestufedinerone.it). Alternately, the Thermal destination where, both in summer and winter, visitors can enjoy a vibrant back to 194BC. The seat of numerous historical local wine, is cooked at 160°C using the steam from Baths are located in Agnano. On-site amenities nightlife scene. events, from the first years of Greek and Roman one of its fumaroles. The tour lasts for around two include two outdoor thermal pools and four One of the hottest clubs in the area, offering the ultimate nightlife colonization to the present time, it still boasts a hours (www.vulcanosolfatara.it). indoor pools with hydromassage; a large green experience, is Nabilah. Located on the famous Romana di Bacoli Beach, at trove of ancient ruins, overlaid by bits and pieces For Spa enthusiasts, we suggest a visit to the poolside area, complete with sun loungers and of successive civilizations. In its underground Terme di Agnano (Thermal Baths of Agnano) umbrellas, make a day at this oasis of peace even spaces, an almost intact archaeological itinerary and the Stufe di Nerone (Nero’s Stoves), the two more inviting (www.termediagnano.it). gives visitors an idea of how the site must have most famous spa complexes in the area boasting night, this elegant, sophisticated beach resort attracts a slew of national and international celebrities. It boasts beautiful scenery, quality shows, international DJs and talented musicians. 46 W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015 Thermal Baths of Agnano y the name “Phlegrean Area” we intend the enormous PH. RERINKIN The Phlegrean Area by night The Submerged Archaeological Park of Baia w w w. w heretravel er. com 47 MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERENAPLES.COM MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS The Vertebra Oracle in Naples 2015 the exterior, under a magnificent colonnade, you can see the statues of the four cardinal virtues and the three theological virtues while, at the sides of the stairway you will find two equestrian statues of king Ferdinand and his father, Charles III of Spain. Open Mon-Sat 6.45am-12-noon and 4.30pm7.30pm - piazza del Plebiscito - T: 081.7645133 CITTÀ DELLA SCIENZA - The science museum pride of the city, which attracted thousand of visitors every year, was almost entirely destroyed by an arson attack that shook Naples, Italy and the whole world on March 4 2013. A huge loss that is already being remedied with the reconstruction. The pavilions that at the moment are available are few: Science Centre, Officina dei Piccoli, Teatro Galileo 104, where it operates the cooperative Le Nuvole, the Congress Centre and the Science Store – Open Tue-Sat 9am-3pm; Sun 10am-5pm; closed on Monday – Via Coroglio, 104 - T: 081.7352424 – T: 0817352220 – www.cittadellascienza.it Rebecca Horn returns in Naples with a personal exhibition featuring sculptures and drawings related to poetry. Also on display, her imposing sculpture entitled “Revelation of a Tree” A personal exhibition by Rebecca Horn, one of the most versatile and creative artists of our times, who works across different media including sculpture, installations, performances, painting, film and poetry. Over the past forty years, she has produced a highly complex oeuvre that is grounded and bound together by an ongoing meditation on metaphysical issues and a deep existential desire. Her last exhibition at Studio Trisorio in Naples was in 2012 when – exactly ten years after her installation ‘Mother of Pearl Spirits’ in Piazza del Plebiscito – she returned with her ‘Capuzzelle’ exhibition to re-examine themes of rebirth and the reciprocity between the dimension of life and death. ‘Capuzzelle’ (cast-iron skulls) continued to feature in her work for many years, at different museums across the world, including Berlin, New Delhi, Maribor and Moscow and, most recently, at Llotja in Palma di Maiorca. Her exhibition in Naples will feature sculptures and drawings related to poetry, including, first and foremost, “Vertebra Oracle for the future”. Her imposing sculpture entitled “Revelation of a Tree” will also be on display. The sculpture features tree limbs cast in bronze sitting on a polished steel table; amid the branches, a ring of brass spindles opens and closes slowly, evoking a decelerated heart valve, or perhaps a spider enveloping its prey. The works of Rebecca Horn have been displayed at personal exhibitions at several of the world’s most important museums including the Guggenheim Museum in New York, the Tate Gallery in London, the Nationalgalerie and the Martin-Gropius-Bau in Berlin, the Museum of Contemporary Art in Tokyo and the Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil in Rio de Janeiro and San Paolo. In 2010, she founded the Moontower Foundation. In Italy, her installations are part of permanent collections at the MADRE museum in Naples and at the Castello di Rivoli Museum of Contemporary Art in Turin. wherenaples.com How to enjoy your stay in Naples 48 W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015 The exhibition focuses on the painting of the seventeenth century Neapolitan artists or followers of the Baroque artist Caravaggio who had ties with Naples including Artemisia Gentileschi, Luca Giordano and Mattia Preti, but also the Fate Presto painting by Andy Warhol from the Reggia di Caserta. A villa confiscated from a boss of the Camorra, and now dedicated to the memory of Don Peppe Diana, a priest murdered in his church by the clan’s hit men in 1993, has become a museum hosting works of art originating from the Uffizi Gallery in Florence. Until 21 October. 10.30am to 8.30pm Casa di don Diana. Via Urano, 18, Casal di Principe, Caserta MONUMENTS & PLACES OF INTEREST CASTEL DELL’OVO - According to ancient Neapolitan legend, its name stems from the egg which Virgil, the Latin poet, supposedly hid in its foundations to support the fortifications. The place where the egg was preserved was closed by heavy locks and kept secret because it was believed that all the facts and fortunes of Castel Marino depended upon it. From that time onwards, the fate of the castle and the entire city, was linked to that egg. The castle’s fortifications and terrace offer a breathtaking view over the gulf – Open Mon-Sat 8am-7pm, Sun 8am-2pm – Borgo Marinaro – T: 081.2400055 CASTEL NUOVO - Also known as Maschio Angioino, it is one of the most recognizable symbols of the city built in 1279 by Charles I, king of Naples, as a royal residence for the House of Anjou. From the time that it was built, it was termed “New” to distinguish it from the older Castles of Ovo and Capuano. Worthy of note are its underground passages, its two towers and its courtyard, from which you can enjoy a fabulous view, its gallery and Piazza d’armi. Open Mon-Sat 9am - 7pm - via Vittorio Emanuele III - T: 081.7955877 COURTESY STUDIO TRISORIO Until 31 December >> www.studiotrisorio.com Studio Trisorio. Riviera di Chiaia, 215, Naples. T: 081414306 THE UFFIZI AT CASAL DI PRINCIPE CASTEL SANT’ELMO - The first documented information regarding the castle dates back to 1275. This star-shaped castle was originally a church dedicated to St. Erasmus. In 1329 it was enlarged at the behest of Robert of Anjou, who transformed it into a real palatium for himself and his court. Later Spanish viceroy Don Pedro de Toledo had it further fortified in 1538. Used as a military prison until the 1970s, in 1976 important restoration work on the castle began, returning it to its original structure. Open Wed-Mon 8.3am-7.30pm - via Tito Angelini, 22 - T: 081.2294401 - www.polomusealenapoli. beniculturali.it/museo_se/museo_se.html CHIESA DEL GESÙ NUOVO - Erected by the Jesuits between 1584 and 1601, its façade is actually part of a 15th century Renaissance palace. Its interior is spacious and light with a rich covering of coloured marbles and typical Florid Neapolitan frescoes. After the church was ravaged by fire in 1639, Cosimo Fanzago was commissioned to carry out restoration works that gave the Church a Baroque appearance. Its interior boasts a number of magnificent frescoes while its chapels feature the works of renowned artists of the calibre of Massimo Stanzione and Giuseppe Ribera. Particularly worthy of note are its sculptorial work and polychrome marble floor. Open Mon-Sun 7am-12.30pm and 4pm-7.30pm piazza del Gesù - T: 081.5518613 COMPLESSO MONUMENTALE DI SANTA CHIARA - It includes a Church, a Monastery and a Convent. One of the principal monuments of medieval Naples, its construction began in 1310 at the behest of Robert of Anjou and his second wife Sancia di Maiorca, who, both devotees of St. Francis of Assisi and Santa Chiara, wanted to build a Franciscan citadel to house the Clarisse nuns in the monastery and the Friars Minor in the adjacent convent. Behind the church is the Cloister of the Clarisse, the monastery’s main cloister, strikingly decorated with bright majolica tiles and considered a masterpiece of Neapolitan art. Open Mon/Sun 7.30am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm - T: 081.7971231 - Complesso monumentale - weekdays 9.30am5.30pm; Sat, Sun and public holidays 10am2.30pm - T: 081.5516673 - T: 081.7971224 - via S. Chiara, 49C - www.santachiara.info - www. monasterodisantachiara.com DUOMO - Known as the Duomo di San Gennaro or Duomo di Santa Maria Assunta, the Cathedral was erected at the end of the 13th century by Charles of Anjou. Its present appearance is the result of the numerous modifications that took place over the centuries, partially altering its original Gothic form. Off the right aisle of the nave is the Chapel of St. Januarius (Capella di San Gennaro), that also functions as the cathedral treasury (Tesoro) and is elaborately decorated with Baroque art – Open Mon-Sat 8am-12.30pm and 4.30pm-7pm, Sun 8am1.30pm and 5pm-7.30pm – via Duomo, 147 – T: 081.449097 CHIESA DI SAN DOMENICO MAGGIORE - Charles II of Anjou began the extensive rebuilding that produced the Church of San Domenico Maggiore. The work was done between 1238 and 1324, but the church has undergone extensive modifications over the centuries, including one in 1670 that recast the structure in the style of the Baroque. In the 19th century, however, the church was restored to its original Gothic design and is a motley combination of the two styles. Among the many artistic points of interest in the basilica are the frescoed ceiling by Francesco Solimena and sculptorial works, including the high altar by Cosimo Fanzago – Open Mon-Sun 8.30am-12-noon and 4.30pm-7pm – piazza S. Domenico Maggiore, 8 – T: 081.459188 GALLERIA UMBERTO I - A mammoth steel and glass masterpiece built on the site of an entire block that was razed to the ground following the cholera epidemic of 1884. The Galleria was built as part of a program of renovation and modernization of the city which began with the Unification of Italy when a tender was put out. The winning project envisaged four large buildings joined to each other by an arcade designed by the engineer Paolo Boubée. Measuring 15 metres in width and 57 metres in height, the galleria was built between 1887 and 1890 and is a wonderful late Victorian marriage of technology with art. The Galleria has four access points: via San Carlo, via Santa Brigida, via Giuseppe Verdi and via Toledo. CHIESA DI SAN FRANCESCO DI PAOLA - One of the most characteristic and famous of all Neapolitan churches. Built in the mid-19th century, its circular form is reminiscent of the Pantheon in Rome. On ORTO BOTANICO - Founded in 1807 with a decree signed by King Joseph Bonaparte, Napoleon’s brother, the botanical gardens extend over a surface area of almost 12 hectares. Dedicated w w w. w heretravel er. com 49 MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS SPOTLIGHT GALLERIE D’ITALIA. YOU AT THE CENTER OF ART. Pompeo Carafa: a refined designer for royal tables On exhibit, an important selection of items and personal relics of the Carafa family, recently donated by Droandi Carafa to the San Martino Museum: fans, drawings, miniatures, majolica plates, sketches and designs for plates, either to be used for the purpose of eating or hung on walls, designed and created by Pompeo Carafa di Noja, a protagonist of court life during the reign of the Savoy family at the time of his appointment as master of ceremonies to the king. Exhibition standouts include eighteen majolica plates inspired by the art of ceramic-making between the 16th and 17th centuries in Central Italy. Until 20 December >> Museo di San Martino. Largo San Martino, 1, Naples T: 0812294537 An open-air exhibition featuring more than 20 contemporary Italian and international artists, invited to interpret the myths, place and history of the island. Performances, audio and video installations, life-size sculptures, night screenings and exhibitions in public and private venues located between Naples and Capri with the involvement of the Art Stations of Naples’ subway system and contemporary art museums. The project also includes the exhibition ‘Canone Inverso’ at the Certosa di San Giacomo. Until December Capri – Napoli. Tel. 081 0191478 www.capritheislandofart.org botanists will be impressed with its rich collection of almost 10,000 species of plants including those from the major American, African, Asian and Australian deserts. Open Mon, Tues and Fri 9am2pm by appointment only; Wed -Thurs 9am-2pma - via Foria, 223 - T: 081.2533937 - www.ortobotanico. unina.it PALAZZO REALE - Envisaged as a 16th century monument to Spanish glory, it was erected at the behest of viceroy Fernandez Ruiz de Castro who, in 1599, decided to build a palace capable of lavishly hosting his sovereign, king of Spain and his entourage. The nucleus of the entire building is the Royal Apartment which can be accessed via a monumental white marble stairway with a double ramp whose lower part is decorated with allegoric bas-reliefs – Open Mon-Sun 9am- 8am – piazza del Plebiscito, I - T: 081.5808111 – www. palazzorealenapoli.beniculturali.it REAL ALBERGO DEI POVERI - One of the largest, most imposing buildings in Europe it was designed by architect Ferdinando Fuga in 1751, at the behest of King Charles III of the House of Bourbon. Originally designed to be 600 metres long with five courtyards and a church in the centre, due to a severe lack of funds, only the three innermost courtyards were built. Plans to complete the building according to the original design were finally abandoned in 1819 – Open Sat 9.30am12.30pm by appointment only – piazza Carlo III – T: 081.5636062 UNIVERSITÀ DEGLI STUDI FEDERICOII - This establishment was founded in 1224 with the specific aim of training administrative and skilled bureaucratic professionals for the curia regis (the kingdom’s governing apparatus). It was also used to prepare lawyers and judges who would help the sovereign to draft and administer justice. Via Mezzocannone, 8 - T: 081.2531111 - www.unina.it VILLA COMUNALE - Its gardens run parallel to the sea in via Caracciolo on reclaimed land featuring almost one kilometre of holm oaks, palm trees, eucalyptus trees and spacious flowerbeds embellished by Neo-classical sculptures, fountains and buildings including Casina Pompeiana and the Cassa Armonica. Designed by Carlo Vanvitelli the Villa Comunale was built in the 1780s by Bourbon King Ferdinand IV as a “Royal Garden” for members of the royal family. Following restoration work by Milanese architect Mendini with coloured chalets and a gold gate, it assumed a more modern appearance. The centre of the villa houses the Stazione Zoologica Anton Dohrn, an important research centre and home to one of the oldest aquariums in Europe. Open Mon-Sun 7am-12midnight - piazza Vittoria - T: 081.7611130 MUSEUMS CERTOSA DI SAN MARTINO - Lying atop a hill in the Vomero district, the former monastery dominates the entire Gulf of Naples. Founded in 1325 by Charles of Anjou, Duke of Calabria, over the centuries the Charter House was enriched by a number of impressive artefacts including marbles, frescoes, sculptures, furnishings and paintings. A national monument since 1866, it houses the National Museum of San Martino, featuring a large display of “presepi” or nativity scenes by masters of the Neapolitan school. Make sure to visit its threetiered gardens and cloisters, the largest of which is considered to be one of the finest in Italy. Open Thurs-Tues 8.30am-6.30pm – Largo S. Martino, 5 – T: 081.5781769 – www.cir.campania.beniculturali.it/ museosanmartino 50 W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015 GALLERIE D’ITALIA PALAZZO ZEVALLOS STIGLIANO - Not only a museum space but also a venue hosting artistic events, temporary exhibitions, concerts, symposiums and conventions. Tues- Sun, from 10am to 6pm; Sat, from 10am to 8pm; Closed on Mondays. Also open during public holidays excluding 15 August, 25 December and 1 January. The museum closes at 2pm on 31 December – Via Toledo, 185. T: 0817917233 www.gallerieditalia.com MAMT. MEDITERRANEAN MUSEUM OF ART, MUSIC AND TRADITIONS - The Museo Mediterraneo dell’Arte, della Musica e delle Tradizioni (MAMT) celebrates the culture of 43 Mediterranean cultures by way of images, objects and original documents provided by their Heads of State and Governments. Five floors of exhibits, photographs and paintings; an area dedicated to the daily prayers of Christians, Muslims and Jews; a library; a newspaper library and a music hall dedicated to Neapolitan artists Peppe and Concetta Barra. MAMT also houses the International Pizza Museum, the majestic “Totem of Peace” created by sculptor Mario Molinari and a section dedicated to architecture. Via Depretis, 130. T: 3408062908 www.mamt.it MAV. VIRTUAL ARCHAELOGICAL MUSEUM OF HERCULANEUM - A trip into the past thanks to a multi-sensorial experience which will enable visitors to learn about and discover the historic realities of Herculaneum and Pompeii prior to the eruption in 79 A.D. At the Virtual Museum of Archaeology (or MAV), sited 100 metres from the ruins of the former settlement, visitors will be transported into a virtual context faithfully recreated thanks to the use of avant-garde digital technology, where they will be given a one-of-a-kind perspective of what life there was really like without having to trek around the actual ruins in a bid to help preserve one of Italy’s most beautiful and fragile archaeological sites. Open Tue-Sun 9.30am-5p- via IV Novembre, 44, Ercolano - T: 081.19806511 www.museomav.it MUSEO ARCHEOLOGICO NAZIONALE - The National Museum, at the Piazza Museo, with its Roman and Greek sculptures, contains one of the most valuable archaeological collections in Italy. It hosts more than 3,000 objects and hundreds of thousands of relics dating back to the Prehistoric and Late Antiquity, originating from ancient sites photo: Matteo Cirenei Capri The Island of Art www.gallerieditalia.com GALLERIE D’ITALIA - PALAZZO ZEVALLOS STIGLIANO NAPLES, VIA TOLEDO 185 THE MUSEUM OF INTESA SANPAOLO. We help to promote culture through permanent exhibitions, temporary shows and special initiatives. [ WHERE ELSE] MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS MUSEO CASA ROSSA: Situated in the historic centre of Anacapri, it houses a rich communal collection of 19th century paintings, an excursus into the places that have made Capri famous throughout the world thanks to the artworks created by the countless artists who visited the Island during that period. Via Giuseppe Orlandi, 78, Anacapri. T: 0818382193 MUSEO CORREALE DI TERRANOVA: A splendid dwelling decorated like an ancient noble residence, featuring magnificent furniture, refined European and Oriental porcelains and rare Neapolitan and foreign paintings. Via Correale, 50, Sorrento. T: 0818781846 www.museocorreale.it MUSEO DEL CENTRO CAPRESE IGNAZIO CERIO: It offers visitors a chance to learn more about the origins of Capri and the fossils found in its rocks. Piazzetta Ignazio Cerio, 5, Capri. T: 0818376681 www.centrocaprense.org MUSEO DEL CONTADINO: Situated in the hilly district of Panza, it is dedicated to the tools and lifestyles of peasant society. Via Mario D’Ambra, 16, Forio, Ischia. T: 081907246 www.dambravini.com MUSEO DELLA CARTA: A place where everything regarding the ancient art of handcrafted paper in Amalfi is disseminated, divulged and documented. Via delle Cartiere, 23, Amalfi. T: 0898304561 www. museodellacarta.it MUSEO DELLA TARSIA LIGNEA: An original museum cum workshop preserving and TWO YOUNG AMERICANS. A DIALOGUE BETWEEN PAINTING AND SCULPTURE A two-person show by Gina Hoover and Matt Jacobs, two young, up-and-coming American artists in the field of painting and sculpture. Though featuring elements of playfulness, fun, irony, hedonism and provocative allusions, their works are firmly anchored to a healthy knowledge of the trade. The creations by Matt Jacobs are characterized by bold colours, improbable shapes and strange materials while those by Gina embody a radical expressivity and a sense of arrested time, displaying fast, confident brushwork and an idiosyncratic palette that testify to a kind of visionary strength. Until 28 November Intragallery. Via Cavallerizza a Chiaia, 57, Naples. T: 081415702 www.intragallery.it in Southern Italy and also includes the Farnese collection which belonged to the Bourbon family, founders of the museum. Open Wed-Mon 9am-7.30pm - piazza Museo Nazionale, 19 - T: 081.4422149 - www.cir.campania.beniculturali.it/ museoarcheologiconazionale MUSEO CAPPELLA SANSEVERO – Thanks to famous masterpieces including the Veiled Christ, known throughout the world on account of the Disinganno (The Release from Deception) and the Anatomical Machines, the Chapel represents one of the most unique monuments ever to have been built. Was built at the end of the 16th century by Raimondo di Sangro, the seventh prince of Sansevero. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am – 6.30pm; Sun and public holidays 9.30am-2pm; Closed on Tuesday – via Francesco De Sanctis, 19 – T: 081.5518470 – www.museosansevero.it MUSEO DEL TESORO DI S. GENNARO - The masterpieces displayed document the extraordinary expertise of sculptors, chisselers and assemblers who created works of art from the 14th century onwards. Open Tues-Sat 9am5.30pm, Wednesday - only by reservation - via Duomo, 147 - T: 081.294980, T: 081.3442286 - www. museosangennaro.com MUSEO DI CAPODIMONTE - Located in the Palazzo Reale di Capodimonte, the museum was created 52 W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015 The day when it all ended. Historic notes documenting the production of wooden inlay crafted by time-honoured Sorrento artisans which also promotes the new contemporary production of design objects and furniture. Via San Nicola, 28, Sorrento. T: 0818771942 www. alessandrofiorentinocollection.it MUSEO DIEFENBACH: Named after the eponymous symbolist artist to whom it pays tribute. The museum hosts large evocative paintings portraying a variety of subjects alongside statues dating back to Roman times depicting marine divinities. Via Certosa, Capri. T: 0815788418 MUSEO MARTE: Four floors spread out over a surface area of 2,500 sq.m. A multi-functional space that hosts exhibitions, cultural events, meetings performances and tastings. Corso Umberto I, 137, Cava dei Tirreni. T: 0899481133 www.marteonline.com by Charles VII who had inherited from his mother the extraordinary collection of art belonging to the Farnese family, one of the most important families of Renaissance Italy. The variety of its collections, including paintings, sculptures, drawings, weapons, decorative arts, is owed to this period. The museum also houses a section dedicated to contemporary art. Open Thurs-Tues 8.30am6.30pm; 7.50 euros - via Miano, 2 - T: 081.7499111 www.polomusealenapoli.beniculturali.it/museo_cp Access routes MUSEO MADRE - The Donna Regina Contemporary Art Museum (M.A.D.RE) takes its name from the building in which it is housed, namely Palazzo Donnaregina. Partially opened in 2005, it was completed in 2007 when the exhibition spaces were enlarged by the Portuguese architect, Alvaro Siza. A medley of 18th and 19th century architecture, it has two courtyards and overlooks a part of the 5th and 6th century B.C. city walls which can be seen under the floor of the ticket office. Open Mon, Wed, Thurs, Fri and Sat 10am6.30pm, Sun 10am-8pm – via Settembrini, 79 – T: 081.19313016 – www.madrenapoli.it to the site T PAN - Housed in the 18th century Palazzo Roccella on via dei Mille, the gallery offers vast exhibition space, consultation areas, services and tools targeted at the study of the works and protagonists of contemporary art forms: from painting to sculpture, from architecture to photography, from design to cinema, from video-art to cartoons. Open Wed-Sat and Mon 9.30am-7.30pm, Sun and public holidays 9.30am-2.30pm - via dei Mille, 60 - T: 081.7958605 www.palazzoartinapoli.net UNDERGROUND NAPLES - This is the other face of Naples, the one that has withstood the tests of time, far-removed from the hustle and bustle of the vibrant city. In its underground passages and walls made from yellow tuff, the stone that Naples is built on, you can still see the indelible signs and traces of its past history, from the birth of Neapolis to the Second World War. The tour of Underground Naples lasts for about 2 hours. Multilingual guides available. Open Mon-Sun 10am-6pm, Thurs also until 9pm; piazza San Gaetano, 68 – T: 081.296944 – T: 340.4606045 – T: 3348197912 – www.napolisotterranea.org © SERENA ALTIERI MUSEO ARSENALE DI AMALFI: The Arsenale was the naval shipyard of the ancient republic of Amalfi (from 1059 onwards). It still retains its original structures intact and, today, is the only shipyard of the period that can be visited in the Mediterranean area. Largo Cesareo Console, 3, Amalfi. T: 089871170 www.museoarsenaleamalfi.it Pompeii >> Access routes he first stable settlement in Pompeii experienced a period of enormous Pompeii was founded around prosperity apparent in the construction the seventh century B.C. by the of luxurious dwellings like Casa del Fauno. indigenous population of the Starting from the first century B.C., Pompeii’s Porta Marina, Piazza Anfiteatro and Piazza Esedra From 8.30am-7pm (last entrance at 6pm) >>Tickets € 11 valid for one day; € 20 with access to 5 sites (Pompeii, Herculaneum, Oplonti, Stabia and Boscoreale), valid for three days. T: 081.8575111 Oscans, subsequently being subjected wealth continued to be based, for the most to the political and cultural influence of part, on the trade of products sourced from the Greeks and the Etruscans. Towards around the area: wine, wool and garum, a the end of the fifth century B.C. Pompeii famous fish sauce used as a condiment. also fell under the sphere of influence The devastating eruption of Vesuvius in of the Sannites, who took possession of 79 A.D. involved the south-western area the whole of Campania, establishing a of Vesuvius, causing all signs of life to flourishing civilization. Rome also took part disappear under a thick crust of volcanic in the interminable succession of wars ash. All in vain: Pompeii had been almost that followed (343-201 B.C.), becoming In Rome, Emperor Titus, created a special entirely buried by the fury of the volcano, the dominant power of the entire region, senatorial committee to organize the rescue while Herculaneum had disappeared resulting in its development as a thriving of its survivors and assess the extent of the completely. port and trading centre. damage in a bid to rebuild the city. FOR BOOKINGS CONTACT YOUR CONCIERGE w w w. w heretravel er. com 53 OUT OF TOWN FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERENAPLES.COM OUT OF TOWN Casertavecchia Reggia di Caserta, the Fountain of Aeolus In discovery of Caserta From the Reggia to the Belvedere of San Leucio, passing through the streets of Casertavecchia, a trip in discovery of the area’s historical, artistic and architectural heritage WHERE ELSE Caserta is a small centre, boasting a rich heritage of artistic, architectural and historical treasures. Where has selected a pick of its most noteworthy landmark attractions that should be visited at least once in a lifetime. THE REGGIA OF CASERTA A visit to this magnificent royal residence, second only to the splendours of Versailles, starts with the Royal Palace, whose construction, entrusted to Neapolitan architect Luigi Vanvitelli, was commissioned by Carlo III Bourbon. The Palace boasts as many as 1,200 rooms, all decorated according to A large staircase adorned with two lions, sculpted in Carrara marble, 54 W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015 leads to the first floor, to the eight Royal Apartments, featuring vaults decorated with stunning frescoes and to the Palatine Library and the Palatine Chapel, embellished with sixteen Corinthian marble columns. There are lots of rooms worth visiting: from the the style of the era. wherenaples.com How to enjoy your stay in Naples alludes to the grandeur of the kingdom and horseshoe-shaped Teatro di Corte (Court Theatre) to the Sala Ellittica (Oval Hall) which is painted in white and contains the magnificent Bourbon manager scene. Back on the ground floor at the end of the main gallery, you come out onto the Reggia's magnificent park: a masterpiece of nature, it extends over more than 100 hectares and is adorned with fountains and pools. The most evocative area of the park is the The Archaeological Museum of Antica Capua w w w. w heretravel er. com 55 OUT OF TOWN >> THE REGGIA OF CASERTA Is open daily, except on Tuesdays, from 8.30am to 4.30pm. T: 0823448084. Entrance to Palace and park: € 12 >> THE BELVEDERE OF SAN LEUCIO The museum can be visited daily, except on Tuesdays, subject to reservation. T: 800411515 – 0823273151 Entrance: € 6 >> CASERTAVECCHIA, How to get there By train: Caserta railway station By plane: Capodichino Airport (Naples) situated at a distance of 24 km Casertavecchia, landscape beautiful English Garden created for Queen to catch a glimpse of Ischia and Capri. The Maria Carolina, the wife of Ferdinand IV: exotic complex also houses the Silk Museum which plants, hot houses, small woods, intricate contains the original tools used to weave silk pathways and a small temple with ancient in the 17th century. The silks produced here Roman statues taken from the ruins of are still purchased by illustrious clients from Pompeii combine to make it a totally unique all over the world, including the White House, place. the Quirinale and Buckingham Palace. Inside, a separate pathway leads to the Bagno di Venere, where a statue of Venus shows the CASERTAVECCHIA goddess shyly preparing to take a bath near The medieval fortress town of Casertavecchia the small fountain. is situated at a distance of some ten km from the city. its terraces, scattered here and THE BELVEDERE OF SAN LEUCIO there, offer a panoramic view over the city, Just a few kilometers from the Royal Palace including Vanvitelli’s Reggia, Vesuvius and the of Caserta, visitors will find a unique example islands of the Gulf. Scattered throughout the of an illuminist-inspired imperial utopia, a town’s narrow medieval streets are craft shops ground breaking project conceived by King and numerous small restaurants specializing Ferdinand IV who created an independent in typical cuisine. Take an evocative trip back community called Ferdinandopoli. through time. The King promoted the production and You’ll be delighted by the heady aromas of manufacture of silk by sending youngsters nature and the wood burning ovens found in from the area to train and learn the art of silk its houses. making in France in order to subsequently Dominated by a castle that is today in ruins, work in the royal factories. In 1778, he the village is built around the cathedral, a fine founded the Royal Colony of San Leucio example of Norman-Arab architectural style based on a separate code of laws. built in 1100. In addition to a beautiful Italianate garden, Dedicated to St. Michael The Archangel, a tour of the site includes a visit to the Royal the Duomo boasts three naves. Elegant yet Apartments. simple, it is a favourite destination for brides From the terrace of the Belvedere, visitors can who choose it to say “I do” on their big day. The Museum of Santa Maria di Capuavetere, detail Line 1 enjoy a splendid view that stretches as far as Vesuvius, and on clear days, it is even possible 56 W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015 San Leucio, Silk TOLEDO station artwork William Kentridge ESSENTIALS Underground Network and Urban Railway System For every need ask your concierge. EMERGENCY Carabinieri T: 112 City Police T: 113 Fire Brigade T: 115 Ambulance T: 118 Sea rescue T: 1530 Passports Questura di Napoli - via Medina, 75. T: 081.7941111 Lost and Found at Stazione Napoli Centrale: via Jacopo De Gennaro, 96/98. T: 081.7956197 Left Luggage at Capodichino Airport T: 199280180 TRAINS Ferrovie dello Stato - Trenitalia Railway Company Info: 892021 - www.trenitalia.com - luggage storage T: 081.5672181 Italo - Italy’s newest high-speed train connects 9 Italian cities including Florence, Rome, Naples and Milan (Garibaldi FS) - www.italotreno.it TAXI How to catch a taxi in Naples. From the hotel: call the concierge. While out and about in the city, call for a taxi on: Consortaxi 081.5525252, Free Radio Taxi 081.5515151, Partenope 081.5560202, Cooperativa Tassisti 081.5510964, Radiotaxinapoli 081.5564444, Radiotaxi Cotana 081.5707070. Urban fixed rates: From/To Capodichino Airport/Lungomare Hotels: € 23,00 From/To Capodichino Airport/Mergellina: € 23,00 From/To Capodichino Airport/Molo Beverello: € 19,00 From/To Capodichino Airport/Piazza Municipio: € 19,00 From/To Capodichino Airport/Central Station: € 15,00 From/To Central Station/Mergellina: € 13,50 From/To Central Station/Lungomare Hotels: € 11,50 From/To Central Station/Molo Beverello: € 10,50 Discover Naples By Metro and Funicular Extra-urban fixed rates: Ravello (one way): € 135,00 Amalfi (one way): € 130,00 Ercolano (round trip with 2 hours stop waiting for visit): € 70,00 Ercolano and Pompei (round trip with 3 hours stop waiting for visit): € 130,00 Pompei (round trip with 2 hours stop waiting for visit): € 90,00 Positano (one way): € 120,00 Costiera’s tour (Positano, Ravello, Amalfi, Sorrento round trip no time limit back in the day): € 220,00 Vesuvio (round trip with 2 hours stop waiting for visit): € 90,00 Sorrento (one way): € 100,00 Royal Palace of Caserta (round trip with 2 hours stop waiting for visit): € 100,00 Roma Fiumicino (one way): € 350,00 City tour (scenic area, gulf, historic centre, Campi Flegrei’s scenic area): € 70,00 AIRPORTS WHERE WAS FOUNDED IN 1936 in Detroit to provide information on the city to executives travelling in the heyday of the auto industry’s expansion. 58 W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015 ESSENTIALS FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERENAPLES.COM Capodichino - (7 km from the centre of Naplestangenziale di Napoli direction Pozzuoli). Flight and bus info: 848.888777 (call center) - from mobile phones T: 081.7515471 - www.portal.gesac.it CITY TOURS Citysightseeing Naples - (48 hour HOP ON HOP OFF ticket) via Paolo Emilio Imbriani, 32. T: 081.5517279 www.napoli.city-sightseeing.it departures: Piazza Municipio, Largo Castello CAR RENTAL AVIS Aeroporto di Capodichino T: 081.7805790 - Corso Novara, 5. T: 081.284041 - via Piedigrotta, 44. T: 081.7618354 www.avisautonoleggio.it DOLLAR RENT A CAR Aeroporto di Capodichino - T: 081.7896252 www.dollarrentacar.com HERTZ Aeroporto di Capodichino T: 081.7802971 - piazza Sannazzaro, 142. T: 081.7612168 - www.hertz.it MAGGIORE Aeroporto Capodichino T: 081.7803011 www.maggiore.it BIKE SHARING Bike-hire stations are located in Piazza Garibaldi, via Brin, piazz a Bovio, piazzetta Nilo, piazza Dante, Largo Enrico Berlinguer, Maschio Angioino, Castel dell'Ovo. See box page 61 CONNECTIONS WITH ISLANDS AND SORRENTO HYDROFOILS Napoli-Capri (Caremar) from Beverello: 5.35am – 12am – 5.25pm Capri-Napoli (Caremar) to Beverello: 10.20am – 3.35pm – 8.15pm Napoli-Capri (Gescab) from Beverello: 7am – 8.05am – 8.35am – 9.10am – 9.30am – 9.50am (Tuesday, Thursday and Friday) – 10.10am – 10.35am – 11.10am – 11.35am – 11.55am (only Sat and Sun) – 12.40am – 2pm – 2.40pm – 3.35pm – 4pm – 4.30pm – 8pm Capri-Napoli (Gescab) to Beverello: 6.50am – 8.05am – 9.10am – 9.35am – 10.10am – 10.35am – 11.35am – 12.15am – 12.40am – 1.40pm – 2.50pm – 3.25pm – 4.30pm – 5.05pm – 5.10pm – 5.50pm – 6.10pm Napoli-Capri (Snav) from Beverello: 7am – 8.05am – 8.35am – 9.10am – 9.30am – 9.50am – 10.10am – 10.35am – 11.10am – 11.35am – 11.55am (only Sat and Sun) – 12.40am – 2pm – 2.40pm – 3.35pm – 4pm – 4.30pm – 8pm Capri-Napoli (Snav) to Beverello: 6.50am – 8.05am – 9.10am – 9.35am – Getting Around Naples In addition to the metro (underground) system, cited in the listings, Naples is also covered by numerous bus routes. For more information regarding Naples’s public transport system: ANM - Azienda Napoletana Mobilità www.anm.it - T: 800639525 How to reach Vesuvian area By train For the entrance to Porta Marina and Piazza Esedra, Pompeii, Circumvesuviana Naples-Sorrento (Pompeii Villa dei Misteri stop; For the entrance to Piazza Anfiteatro, Pompeii, Pompei Santuario Stop; for Herculaneum, Herculaneum stop; for Oplontis, Torre Annunziata stop By bus from Naples and from Salerno By car A3 Naples-Salerno (Pompeii exit to Pompeii; Herculaneum exit to Herculaneum; Torre Annunziata Sud exit to Oplontis) INFORMATION TO VISIT POMPEII Access routes: Porta Marina, Piazza Anfiteatro and Piazza Esedra T: 081.8575111 HERCULANEUM Access routes: Corso Resina, 1 T: 081-7324311 OPLONTI Access routes: Via dei Sepolcri, Torre Annunziata T: 0818575347 10.10am – 10.35am – 11.35am – 12.15am – 12.40am – 1.40pm – 2.50pm – 3.25pm – 4.30pm – 5.05pm – 5.10pm – 5.50pm – 6.10pm Napoli-Forio (Ischia) (Alilauro) from Beverello: 7.35am (except Sat and public holidays) – 9.40am – 10.50am – 2.35pm – 5.20pm Forio (Ischia)-Napoli (Alilauro) to Beverello: 6.50am – 9.15am – 11.20am – 1pm – 3.55pm Napoli-Casamicciola (Ischia) (Snav) ffrom Beverello: 8.25am – 12.30am – 4.20pm – 7pm Casamicciola (Ischia)-Napoli (Snav) to Beverello: 7.10am – 9.45am – 1.50pm – 5.40pm Napoli-Ischia Porto (Alilauro) from Beverello: 7.35am (weekdays) – 9.40am – 10.50am – 12.10am – 12.55am – 2.35pm – 3.30pm – 5.20pm – 5.55pm – 8.20pm Ischia Porto-Napoli (Alilauro) to Beverello: 6.30am (except Sat and public holidays) – 7.10am (weekdays) – 8.40am – 9.35am – 10am (except Sat and public holidays) – 11.45am – 1.20pm – 2pm – 4.15pm – 4.40pm – 7.10pm Napoli-Ischia (Alilauro) from Mergellina: 7.10am (except Sat and public holidays) – 12.30am – 6.15pm Ischia-Napoli (Alilauro) to Mergellina: 10am (except Sat and public holidays) – 2pm – 3.20pm (only Sat) – 5.20pm (festive) – 7.10pm Napoli-Ischia (Caremar) from Beverello: 7.40am – 1.10am – 6.15pm Ischia-Napoli (Caremar) to Beverello: 6.20am – 10.15am – 2.30pm Ticket Single ticket: € 1.00 Ticket validity (valid for 90 minutes): € 1.50 Day ticket: € 3.50 Weekly ticket: € 12.00 Where to purchase your ticket: from all authorized ticket sellers, ANM points and automatic ticket machines in underground stations. w w w. w heretravel er. com 59 ESSENTIALS NAPLES How to reach Coast&Islands VESUVIUS SORRENTO POSITANO ISCHIA CAPRI POSITANO SORRENTO By car from Naples: Autostrada A3, Vietri sul Mare exit. From here take the statale 163 By car from Naples: statale 145 By bus from Naples: Sita spa T: 089487001 By train: Circumvesuviana from Napoli to Sorrento TOURIST INFORMATION TOURIST INFORMATION Carabinieri: T: 089875011 Croce Rossa Italiana: T: 089811912 Vigili Urbani: T: 089875277 Municipality: T: 0898122511 Carabinieri: T: 089875011 Emergency Medical: T: 0815331111 Taxi: T: 0818782204 Azienda Soggiorno e Turismo: T: 0818074033 ISCHIA CAPRI By boat, from Naples: molo Beverello to Ischia Porto, Casamicciola or Forio (1 hour, 40 minutes by ferry, 40 minutes by hydrofoil); molo Mergellina to ischia Porto, Casamicciola or Forio (40 minutes by hydrofoil); from Pozzuoli to Casamicciola (60 minutes by ferry, 50 minutes by motorboat) By boat from Naples: molo Beverello (80 minutes by ferry, 40 minutes by hydrofoil), from molo Mergellina (40 minutes by hydrofoil), from Sorrento (40 minutes by ferry, 20 minutes by hydrofoil) TOURIST INFORMATION Carabinieri: T: 081991001 Taxi: T: 0818782204 Azienda Soggiorno e Turismo: T: 0815074211 Capri-Amalfi (Alilauro) 4.25pm Amalfi-Capri (Alilauro) 9.30am Capri-Amalfi (Gescab) 5.15pm Amalfi-Capri (Gescab) 8.55am Capri-Positano (Alilauro) 4.25pm Positano-Capri (Alilauro) 10am Capri-Positano (Gescab) 5.15pm Positano-Capri (Gescab) 9.15am Capri-Sorrento (Alilauro) 8am (weekdays) – 9am – 9.20am – 9.50am – 10.20am – 11.20am – 12.20am – 1pm – 3.15pm – 4.20pm – 5.20pm – 6.30pm Sorrento-Capri (Alilauro) 7.15am (weekdays) – 8.05am – 8.45am – 9.15am – 9.50am – 10.45am – 11.45am – 1.30pm – 3.50pm – 4.05pm – 4.45pm – 5.45pm Capri-Sorrento (Caremar) 7am – 8.40am – 1.35pm – 6.45pm Sorrento-Capri (Caremar) 7.45am – 9.25am – 2.30pm – 7.25pm Capri-Sorrento (Gescab) 8am (weekdays) – 8.55am – 9.05am – 9.20am – 10.20am – 11.20am – 12.10am – 1pm – 1.55pm – 3.15pm – 4.05pm – 4.20pm – 5.15pm – 5.35pm (except TOURIST INFORMATION Carabinieri: T: 0818370000 Emergency Medical: T: 0818381259 Taxi: T: 0818370543 Azienda Soggiorno e Turismo: T: 0818375308 Sat and Sun) – 5.45pm – 6.30pm Sorrento-Capri (Gescab) 7.15am (except Sun) – 8.10am – 8.45am – 9.40am – 9.50am – 10.45am – 11.25am – 11.45am – 1.30pm – 1.50pm – 2.25pm – 3.45pm – 4.45pm – 5.45pm Capri-Sorrento (Snav) 8am (except Sun) – 8.55am – 11.20am – 1pm – 3.15pm – 4.35pm – 5.40pm Sorrento-Capri (Snav) 7.15am (except Sun) – 8.30am – 9.50am – 11.45am – 1.30pm – 3.50pm – 5.05pm Sorrento-Amalfi (Alilauro) 10.30am Amalfi-Sorrento (Alilauro) 4.35pm Sorrento-Positano (Alilauro) 10.30am Positano-Sorrento (Alilauro) 5pm Napoli-Sorrento (Alilauro) from Beverello: 9am – 11am – 1pm – 3.05pm – 5.15pm Sorrento-Napoli (Alilauro) to Beverello: 8.10am – 10am – 12am – 2pm – 4.25pm Amalfi-Ischia (Alilauro) 8.25am Ischia-Amalfi (Alilauro) 4.20pm Sorrento-Ischia (Alilauro) 9.30am Ischia-Sorrento (Alilauro) 5.25pm Positano-Ischia (Alilauro) 9am Ischia-Positano (Alilauro) 4.20pm Capri-Ischia (Snav) 4.40pm Ischia-Capri (Snav) 10.40am 60 W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015 BIKE SHARING The service is operative on a daily basis and bicycles can be picked up from any of the stations avalaible (piazza Garibaldi, via Brin, piazza Bovio, piazzetta Nilo, piazza Dante, largo Enrico Berglinguer, Maschio Angioino, Castel dell’Ovo) from 7am to 10pm (even several times a day) for short point-to-point trips from one station to another. Maximum duration: 30 minutes. The service is free. To use it you need to register on the www.bikesharingnapoli.it website. You will be required to give your credit or debit card number as a guarantee but no charges will be made. FERRIES Napoli-Capri (Caremar) from Porta di Massa: 7.25am – 12am – 12.40am – 7.10pm Capri-Napoli (Caremar) to Porta di Massa: 5.40am – 9.20am – 2.30pm Napoli-Casamicciola (Caremar) from Porta di Massa: 3.45pm Casamicciola-Napoli (Caremar) to Porta di Massa: 12.55am Napoli-Casamicciola (Medmar) from Porta di Massa: 9.30pm (only Fri and Sat) Casamicciola-Napoli (Medmar) to Porta di Massa: 12.55am Napoli-Ischia (Caremar) from Porta di Massa: 6.15am – 3.10pm – 5.30pm – 8.30pm – 12pm Ischia-Napoli (Caremar) to Porta di Massa: 3.20pm – 5.20pm – 7.25pm – 10.15pm Napoli-Ischia (Medmar) from Porta di Massa: 8.35am – 10.05am (only Fri, Sat and Sun) – 2.10pm – 4.50pm (only Fri, Sat and Sun) – 7pm Ischia-Napoli (Medmar) tto Porta di Massa: 6.25am – 10.35am – 2.30pm (only Fri, Sat and Sun) – 5pm – 6.50pm (only Fri, Sat and Sun) Capri-Sorrento (Caremar) 7am – 8.40am – 1.35pm – 6.45pm Sorrento-Capri (Caremar) 7.45am – 9.25am – 2.30pm – 7.25pm Capri-Positano (Gescab) 4.25pm Positano-Capri (Gescab) 10am Capri-Amalfi (Gescab) 4.25pm Amalfi-Capri (Gescab) 9.30am The times shown are those listed on the websites of individual cruise companies. Where declines all responsibility for unexpected changes in running times. [ WHERE IN NAPLES] My Perfect Day When it comes to cuisine, how important are Naples in three adjectives? creativity and passion? Dramatic, chaotic and flavoursome. Creativity serves as a means of expression and passion Naples in three snapshots? is essential in all jobs. Sea, pizza and mandolins? No! History, culture and Is it better to use high-quality ingredients or cheerfulness. to work with leftovers hidden in the fridge? Your favourite aperitivo? It’s always a pleasure to use high-quality ingredients Campari spritz. However, while on the panel of judges but I’m still of the opinion that one shouldn’t waste of a recent competition, I drank cocktails featuring a food. Martini mix that were absolutely fabulous. What are the right ingredients for a perfect dish? There is no such thing as a perfect dish. There are only outstanding ingredients that are combined according to taste and creativity to give pleasure. What are the hallmark features of the Le Colonne restaurant? Directness, minimalism and substance. The coffee ritual. Tell us about yours? I never drink a cup of coffee without first drinking a glass of water to cleanse my palate. My cup of coffee has to be so hot that it burns my lips. Your favourite dish? Impossible to choose! There are so many good things to eat. Your best culinary creation? At the moment a mozzarella ball and an upside down pizza. Rosanna Marziale [ Chef ] The Chef of Le Colonne restaurant in Caserta says that she has many hidden identities which on coming together are responsible for her choices in the kitchen. She uses her recipes to tell her story and to express the various facets of her personality. Let’s talk about shopping: what do you like end up using the same one. What made you choose to become a chef? I have always worked at my family’s restaurant. 64 W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015 a female chef ? I had to work as hard as any man, in the sense of ‘no pain, no gain’. But this had nothing to do with being a woman. What is the place ‘dearest to your heart’ in Naples? Naples is full of places that I love. However, strolling along via Caracciolo while looking at the Bay of Naples is a truly magical feeling. buying? Handbags! Although I always Did you have trouble establishing yourself as I was born here and although it wasn’t taken for granted that I would learn to love the business, I tried all the sectors that are indispensable for a chef’s job. Before actually working in the kitchen, I took various courses on management, becoming a bar tender, a maitre, a sommelier… How would you describe the Neapolitans? Exaggerated, with no half measures, whether good or bad. 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