Rassegna Stampa Olimpias
Transcript
Rassegna Stampa Olimpias
Rassegna Stampa Olimpias Settimana 27: 08-07-2016 Wabi comunicazione d’impresa Rassegna Stampa Olimpias Settimana 27: 08-07-2016 SOMMARIO Olimpias • Intervista a Gilberto Benetton – Corriere della Sera (04/07/2016) Competitor Gentile utente, non ci sono aggiornamenti in questa sezione della rassegna stampa Settore • • • • • Corsa all’Iran, guidano Benetton e Mango Nike, Esprit, Victoria’s Secret and LiNing fail toxic-free fashion ranking FESPA To Host Digital Textile Conference In Milan, Italy The fashion industry tries to take responsibility for its pollution Textile sustainability conference taking shape Wabi comunicazione d’impresa Rassegna Stampa Olimpias Settimana 27: 08-07-2016 Olimpias Corriere della Sera Wabi comunicazione d’impresa Rassegna Stampa Olimpias Settimana 27: 08-07-2016 Wabi comunicazione d’impresa Rassegna Stampa Olimpias Settimana 27: 08-07-2016 Wabi comunicazione d’impresa Rassegna Stampa Olimpias Settimana 27: 08-07-2016 Competitor Gentile utente, non ci sono aggiornamenti in questa sezione della rassegna stampa Wabi comunicazione d’impresa Rassegna Stampa Olimpias Settimana 27: 08-07-2016 Settore Corsa all’Iran, guidano Benetton e Mango 7 LUGLIO 2016 L’Iran promette di diventare il nuovo strategico mercato di sbocco per le aziende italiane della moda. Secondo i dati Ice, nei primi due mesi del 2016 le importazioni in Iran di prodotti tessili e di abbigliamento italiani (inclusa la voce ‘pelle e pelliccia’) sono aumentate rispettivamente del 178% e del 63 per cento. Al di là dei singoli dati, la principale conferma dell’importanza del Paese nello scacchiere internazionale arriva in realtà dall’esempio di big come Benetton e Mango che hanno già piantato le prime bandierine anni fa, e che ora vantano già una rete distributiva ramificata. Come emerge nell’articolo pubblicato sul prossimo numero di Pambianco Magazine, Benetton è stato, insieme a Escada e Mango, tra i primi a entrare in Iran. Lo sbarco è avvenuto nel 2006 con l’apertura di una filiale diretta. A dieci anni di distanza, il gruppo conta su una rete di una trentina di negozi gestiti da imprenditori locali, che toccano in modo capillare il Paese: non solo Teheran, ma anche altre importanti città come Mashad, Tabriz, Shiraz e l’isola di Kish Island. Mango, invece, ha debuttato nel Paese nel 2008 e ora conta sei store nel Paese nelle città di Teheran, Mashhad, Esfahan, Tabriz e Shiraz che a breve diventeranno nove. “Stiamo progettando l’apertura di altri tre punti vendita entro la fine di quest’anno o al massimo i primi mesi del prossimo a Teheran e Mashhad”, ha annunciato l’azienda spagnola di fast fashion. Tra gli ultimi nomi italiani a entrare nel mercato c’è Camicissima. Il marchio di camiceria che fa capo al gruppo Fenicia ha inaugurato a marzo il primo negozio monomarca a Teheran, all’interno del Mall Tiraje 2. Si tratta, spiegano dall’azienda, della prima di una serie di opening che riguarderanno questo mercato nei prossimi cinque anni: sono ben 20 le aperture programmate, nelle 20 principali città persiane. Anche a livello istituzionale, la moda sta lavorando per rafforzare i Wabi comunicazione d’impresa Rassegna Stampa Olimpias Settimana 27: 08-07-2016 legami con le associazioni del Paese, con l’obiettivo in particolare di creare una rete di rapporti per superare le difficoltà burocratiche legate (anche) alle licenze distributive nella regione. Dopo aver siglato ad aprile unMemorandum of Understanding con Teheran Garmet Union (Tgu), SmiSistema moda Italia, la più importante organizzazione del settore tessile e abbigliamento iraniano che riunisce al suo interno oltre 20mila imprese aderenti, tornerà a novembre a Teheran per un nuovo incontro con l’associazione di settore locale. Wabi comunicazione d’impresa Rassegna Stampa Olimpias Settimana 27: 08-07-2016 Nike, Esprit, Victoria’s Secret and LiNing fail toxic-free fashion ranking Press release - 5 July, 2016 Hamburg, 5 July 2016 – Greenpeace International today releases its Detox Catwalk, assessing how effectively 19 major fashion brands are cleaning up their supply chains of toxic chemicals. Inditex (which owns Zara), H&M and Benetton are the only three “Avant-Garde” companies on track to clean up their chains as promised by 2020, while Victoria’s Secret and Esprit and sports brands Nike and LiNing are failing to take the necessary steps towards that goal. “We applaud H&M, Zara and Benetton for leading the way and setting a new standard in toxic free fashion,” said Kirsten Brodde, Head of the Detox My Fashion campaign at Greenpeace Germany. “These companies prove that cleaning up the fashion industry is possible – both for large and medium-sized companies.” “Our assessment shows that the textile industry as a whole is not doing enough to go toxicfree. 16 out of the 19 brands assessed are stumbling over transparency issues or failing to eliminate toxic chemicals; with only three years left they must speed up now if they’re to meet their 2020 deadlines,” said Brodde. The Detox Catwalk assesses how committed companies have performed against key criteria, including eliminating known hazardous chemicals from their products and manufacturing processes, disclosing pollution information and publishing suppliers’ lists. While Victoria’s Secret, Esprit, Nike and LiNing scored in the lowest “Faux Pas” category, another 12 Detox committed brands find themselves in the middle “Evolution Mode” category. These include adidas, Burberry, Levi’s, Primark and Puma which are not banning enough hazardous chemicals and rely on the flawed chemical list from the industry group Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC). This list is missing important substances like PFCs and solvents like Dimethylformamide (DMF). Companies like C&A, Fast Retailing, G-Star, Mango, and Miroglio score higher within the same “Evolution Mode” group, either for better chemicals management or greater supply chain transparency. “A major step forward this year is that committed companies are truly lifting the veil on their supply chains. Companies are publishing complete suppliers’ lists, which shows a trend for long-term relationships with suppliers networks, built on mutual trust. That is crucial for implementing the Detox programme,” said Brodde. The Greenpeace Detox campaign demands fashion brands commit to zero discharge of all hazardous chemicals by 2020 and requires their suppliers to disclose the releases of toxic chemicals from their facilities to communities at the site of the water pollution. Tackling water pollution is getting ever more urgent, especially in textile production countries such as China where more than 80 percent of underground water is unsafe for drinking. Four- Wabi comunicazione d’impresa Rassegna Stampa Olimpias Settimana 27: 08-07-2016 fifths of China's water from wells is not safe because of pollution, according to an analysis published by the Chinese Water Resources Ministry this year. China’s textile industry is one of the largest industrial water polluters in the country. The corporate action has sparked policy change in manufacturing countries such as China, where harmful chemicals used in the textile sector such as PFCs, nonylphenols and phthalates have been included for regulation on the 12th Five-Year Plan for the Prevention and Control of Environmental Risk of Chemicals. Wabi comunicazione d’impresa Rassegna Stampa Olimpias Settimana 27: 08-07-2016 FESPA To Host Digital Textile Conference In Milan, Italy Wednesday, July 06, 2016 Programme developed with FESPA Italia and leading Italian fashion & textile associations FESPA will hold its next Digital Textile Conference on 30 September 2016 in Milan, Italy. The event will be delivered with the support of the FESPA Italia Association and in close collaboration with Sistema Moda Italia, the Italian Fashion and Textile Federation, and Associazione Italiana Disegnatori Tessili, the Italian Textile Designers Association, both of which will field speakers. The event is also sponsored by MS Italy. The one-day conference builds on the success of a series of FESPA-led Digital Textile Conferences which have taken place over the course of the last eight years. These conferences have been designed to help members of FESPA's global speciality printing community realise the growth opportunities in digital printing on textile substrates for a range of applications. FESPA Digital Textile Conferences offer a focused environment in which to learn and network, both for printers already active in digital textile printing and for those still seeking to explore the opportunity. The September 2016 conference programme will provide print service providers with insights into the diverse market segments of digital textile printing, feedback from printers who have successfully entered the sector and technical guidance on how to address the opportunity, including updates on the latest technology developments in machinery, software, inks and textiles. The conference programme will be delivered in English and Italian. Confirmed speakers and panellists so far include Enrico Barboglio (FESPA Italia); Duncan MacOwan (FESPA); Ron Gilboa (InfoTrends); Fulvio Alvisi (AIDT); Andrea Ferrero (Miroglio Textiles); Lorenzo Zottar (The Color Soup); Gianluca Brenna (Stamperia di Lipomo); Dario Garnero (Stamperia Serica Italiana) and Andrea Barbiani (MS Italy). The event will be moderated by respected Italian industry journalist Paola Bonfanti. The September 2016 Digital Textile Conference is co-located with FESPA Italia Day, the event for members of FESPA's Italian association, enabling members to efficiently combine participation in both events. The FESPA Print Census, results of which were published in May 2015, clearly indicated textile as the dominant growth application for the community, with 81% of printers at that time seeing growth in this segment, the highest of any growth application. Digital technology was identified as the key enabler, with over 50% of respondents expecting digitally produced garments to become an important alternative to traditional screen printing in the next two years. Textile printers featured prominently in investment plans, with 21% of respondents specifically focussing spend in this area, supported by 12% planning to acquire thermal transfer equipment. Decorative and industrial textile applications also featured heavily, with 78% of those surveyed reporting growth in textiles for décor Wabi comunicazione d’impresa Rassegna Stampa Olimpias Settimana 27: 08-07-2016 applications. Textile substrates were continuing to make inroads in the signage and graphics space, with 67% observing sustained growth in soft signage. FESPA has collated further feedback from its community since the March 2016 FESPA Digital exhibition in Amsterdam, which incorporated FESPA Textile. Responses indicate that digital textile printing is now of immediate interest to nearly two-thirds of wide format printers, with 40% already printing on textile, and a further 20% actively interested in entering the sector. Fashion and garment printing was indicated as the primary area of interest, followed by interior decor and soft signage. FESPA CEO Neil Felton comments: "A year on from the FESPA Census, printers are turning interest into action, as we saw from the tremendous buzz in the FESPA Textile halls in Amsterdam a few months ago. Today, digital accounts for only a small proportion of all textile printing, but this is forecast to grow substantially in the years ahead, with estimates suggesting that digital could account for 5% of textile printing by 2020, up from 2% today. Clearly that's a significant diversification opportunity for printers already invested in digital output technology and supporting workflows." The choice of Milan as the location of the next FESPA Digital Textile Conference reflects the significance of Italy, and the Como region in particular, as a centre of European textile manufacturing and decorating excellence, accounting for 55% of the European digital textile market and producing more than 180 million square metres of digitally printed textiles in 2015. (Source: Fibre2Fashion) Registration for the Digital Textile Conference is open to any printer. Full details of the conference programme and delegate registration can be found at www.fespadtc.com. Wabi comunicazione d’impresa Rassegna Stampa Olimpias Settimana 27: 08-07-2016 The fashion industry tries to take responsibility for its pollution By Nancy Szokan June 30 The apparel industry — particularly the inexpensive, runway-to-retail segment known as fast fashion — is known to wreak havoc on the environment. “The clothing industry is the secondlargest polluter in the world, second only to the oil industry,” high-end retailer Eileen Fisher has famously said (and repeated, and written, and tweeted). Water is a big part of the problem: Cotton is a thirsty plant. Textile manufacturers use a lot of water, and the vast amounts of waste water they discharge are contaminated with bleaches, solvents, acids, alkalis, dyes, inks, resins, softeners and fluorocarbons. In its June 27 issue, Chemical & Engineering News considers the fashion-pollution problem in the context of the “circular economy” — “the process of turning waste into a resource by reusing and recycling products at the end of their useful life.” Senior business editor Melody M. Bomgardner examines the benefits and limitations of such programs as H&M’s take-back, where customers bring old clothes into the store in exchange for discounts on purchases. The company has collected more than 30,000 metric tons of old clothes since 2013, sending most of them to secondhand stores or turning them into rags or fiber material for insulation. That’ s a limited market. The future goal, H&M says, is to transform the fiber so it can be rewoven and remade into new clothes — but a cost-effective way to do that hasn’t been found yet. Adidas has created a concept shoe using nylon reclaimed from soda bottles and from gill nets confiscated from illegal fishing operations. (The nylon “had to be cleaned of its fishy smell, then powdered and re-extruded,” Bomgardner writes). In China, where more than half the world’s garments are made, a company called Jinggong formed a joint venture with a Japanese chemical manufacturer to recycle polyester and sell it back to apparel makers — but just last month it reported a $50 million loss. As Bomgardner notes, it’s fine to try to recycle materials, but the first challenge the industry needs to address is to make textile manufacturing less polluting to begin with. Pollution controls are hard to maintain in an industry where the supply chains are long and diffuse: Levi’s has more than 500 suppliers in Mexico, China, Pakistan, Haiti, Egypt, Poland, Turkey and Bangladesh. “It’s not always easy to understand what goes into the formulation of chemicals you are using,” one official admits. One program that has earned praise is Levis’s Water<Less jeans process, which takes the water out of stone-washing and combines multiple finishing steps. “The company estimates the changes cut water use by up to 96 percent for some styles,” Bomgardner writes. “It plans to expand the process to cover 80 percent of its manufacturing by 2020.” Wabi comunicazione d’impresa Rassegna Stampa Olimpias Settimana 27: 08-07-2016 Wabi comunicazione d’impresa
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